RalliartRsX

I highly recommend you read the thread over again, as if the temp probe is indeed reading what is coming out of the head, you can place the probe in the outlet.

OR, you can do below (drill and tap the stock housing)



There is more than one way to skin a cat

Kingtal0n

Oh, you mean the one where a manufacturer of turbochargers "GARRET" Recommends that they be placed as close as possible to the compressor outlet, and still 51% of people still blindly insist it goes on the cold side?

couldnt resist.

I like the water temp reading coming out of the engine. I want to know if my new timing settings are heating up the water, as a tuning technique, one can see that a 30 second 5th gear pull with 12* of timing vs 6* of timing there is a difference of 20*C final temperature rise after 30 seconds of boosting in 5th.

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https://tinyurl.com/turbo240

jamg

my IC piping had it on the cold side... you're telling me it's on the wrong side?

wat.

jr_ss

My Defi sensor is in the upper coolant neck, which is also the coolant out to the radiator from the head. I have a slightly different engine configuration being that I have a VVL setup. My temp readout on the Haltech(which is in the "factory" position) reads 1-2degrees different from the Defi sensor. The upper outlet gives you a better indication of what your engine temps are. Why would you want to know how cool the coolant is going back into the motor, other than to see how efficient your radiator/fan setup is?

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ixfxi

The Blow-Off valve (BOV) is a pressure relief device on the intake tract to prevent the turbo’s compressor from going into surge. The BOV should be installed between the compressor discharge and the throttle body, preferably downstream of the charge air cooler (if equipped). When the throttle is closed rapidly, the airflow is quickly reduced, causing flow instability and pressure fluctuations. These rapidly cycling pressure fluctuations are the audible evidence of surge. Surge can eventually lead to thrust bearing failure due to the high loads associated with it.

http://www.turbobygarrett.com/turbob...low_off_valves

downstream of the cooler = near the TB

jr_ss

Why Mike, must you add fuel to the fire?

He read it in a book, so it must be true. I'm sure he'll come in here with some math equations, that have absolutely nothing to do with the topic at hand or anything in general, proving you are wrong if you calculate them.

But it is funny...

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My SR20VET

ixfxi

well, you gotta leave some room for variance as no sensor gives you 100% accuracy. its always +/- a certain amount


well, since that last thread ive written him off as the village idiot

jr_ss

I agree, you'll always have a variance, even with the same sensors. I was simply making the point that it is in fact the same "coolant" as what the factory temp sensor sees.

He's a character that's for sure.

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Kaifd3s

Update, threw in the Nismo thermo and a new OEM waterpump. I put in around 30% coolant and 70% distilled water with a bottle of Water Wetter. This car in normal driving barely sees over 85C, its usually between 75C-85C. When I throw on the A/C the car gets around 90-95C.

Is that around the normal temps for when the air conditioning is on? Was wondering if that was too high.





My girl even surprised me with a gift. (For all you gamers out there)

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TheRealSy90

If I don't want to remove my stock sensors from the housing, isn't the lower hose as close as I can get to it? Installed my yashio factory water pump pulley, 110 outside on the way home from work about a 40 minute drive, temps stayed around 165-170 in the lower hose cruising at 60mph.

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RalliartRsX

Please read the thread again. All the information is listed.

Short of the answer: NO, the lower hose is the incorrect placement for the sensor (which has been said several times over and I posted a coolant path diagram from the FSM...................)

TheRealSy90

Oh well. I don't want to remove my factory sensors. Guess i'll live with it.

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RalliartRsX

Dude, read the thread! Placing it in the top hose has nothing to do with removing factory sensors (and placing it in your current location gives you inaccurate readings)...........

However, its your car and you can do as you please...........

livelovesole

I live in New York

- Chuki frontend ( Cut )
- Isis Radiator w/ dual e-fans
- Samco hoses
- Nismo thermostat
- Stance oversized water pump pulley
- Radiator cooling panel

Driving from home to work and around I average about 158-170. I do plan on running a breather tank in the near future so that it constantly bleeds the radiator, deffitnitly a good investment.

RalliartRsX

In all honesty, daily running temps mean have little meaning if your coolant temps in boost is through the roof.............

zombiewolf513

>Upper waterneck.<

Having accurate temp readings at all times is important.


Zilvians have now gone from 'Cannot search for a topic' to 'Cannot draw conclusion from thread'

TheRealSy90

Top hose? My temp sensor is in the bottom hose. I was referencing the picture you posted of the temp sensor replacing the gauge cluster sensor in the thermostat housing. Which is what I don't want to remove.

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zombiewolf513

Then put it in the upper hose.

aga

interesting thread. i am switching back to clutch fan and shroud myself, with gktech's fan blades. i was impressed by that article , what it said about ducting. i guess it's time to get the measuring tape out and do some work!

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My Build

RalliartRsX

Agreed with bolded statement. What I am getting at is all these posts about running this and that mod, they have no baseline, no in boost runs (even so no flow data), etc but yet, they are stating all these mods work and all and have no clue what the hell is doing what

The biggest difference I see as far as temps are concerned (be it in boost or regular driving) is DUCT WORK! Not a Nismo thermo, upper panel, etc.

Lower engine panel
Ducting intercooler
Ducting the sides between the opening on the bumper and the condenser/radiator (big gaping gaps on both sides)
etc.

Not many people here are willing to take a few hours and some thinking to do it however........even though its the cheapest most effective mod for aiding in cooling (the panel I made cost me about $30. The aftermarket upper cooling panel is on average 50-100........and it does nothing without the other duct work)

ixfxi

dude, quit being a fucking moron. stop for a second and think about the way the system works.

I've attached some retard-spec photos for you. You really shouldnt have any questions after this.