Kaifd3s

OK so I searched and came across a TON of different temps. I went through the FSM and couldn't really find anything other than 220F is bad and at 170F is where the thermostat opens.

Cruising around town in South Florida heat, my temps are usually around 185F to 190F. If I turn on the AC that thing shoots up to around 206F.

My question is this normal? I was thinking maybe it should run a little cooler.

Mods:
Mishimoto Rad
Samco hoses
40 coolant 60 water with some water wetter
FAL puller fans
HKS rad cap at about 18psi

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jr_ss

You're adding additional heat to the cooling system. Of course your temps are going to increase. 205 isn't bad and my car use to be between 195-205 no matter what was on or I was doing. 215 is where my alarm is set so I can get a cool down lap or two in before it spikes. However, even at those temps I have yet to see my factory gauge climb into the red, so who knows how hot that the motor has to get for that to register.

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fliprayzin240sx

Get rid of the E-fans and go back to stock mechanical fan/shroud. That was the only way I could keep my Silvia from pinging over 100* with the AC on and in stop/go traffic.

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Om1kron

had a taurus e-fan on my radiator and that thing was more trouble than it was worth. I got a G-Teck replacement fan, used fan clutch, and replaced my water pump. Car runs a solid 70c on a normal temp day, and running it hard in sub 100 degree weather at about 80-90c.

Best investment ever.

No more ridiculous electric issues or massive power draws running an e-fan.

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Wayne

Sileighty_85

Dont use Autozone type Thermos, Only OEM/Nismo Ones

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後輪駆動車１番
1989 Built SR GT2871R -363whp
1998 S14 W/RB25- 250ish (For Now)
1986 SR86 - 200ish
1990 R32 GTR - 320hp
Don't Buy Engines from JDM-Online http://zilvia.net/f/businesses/207457-jdm-online.html
Don't Buy XS-Power or SSAC Shit

KiLLeR2001

Altima E-Fans here. I like to keep my temps around 185-190, which is what I would consider normal. As long as it doesn't reach 220F, you're fine. But I can imagine you don't want to be sitting in the 200's for extended periods of time either.

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fliprayzin240sx

Napa uses made in USA/close to OEM spec thermos, only place I'd get them from outside of the dealer.

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Sileighty_85

Id only trust one if I had a AM temp gauge.in my S14 KA I had a Autozone one and when crusing on the interstate it would go up to 210* on my Defi without A/C...pulled it and installed a Nissan OEM one and temps went down to 183* and stayed

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後輪駆動車１番
1989 Built SR GT2871R -363whp
1998 S14 W/RB25- 250ish (For Now)
1986 SR86 - 200ish
1990 R32 GTR - 320hp
Don't Buy Engines from JDM-Online http://zilvia.net/f/businesses/207457-jdm-online.html
Don't Buy XS-Power or SSAC Shit

Kaifd3s

I still have a Nismo tstat and a new OEM waterpump to put in.

So just to make sure I am reading right, my temps are normal then?

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dorkidori_s13

i live in las vegas, NV where its 125deg in the shade in the middle of summer. my car normally runs around 165-205 (and thats with a chuki bumper).

get rid of electric fans, get rid of water + coolant... run straight green coolant and reinstall OEM fan + fan shroud. e-fans are garbage in areas of the world where its HOT! the clutch fan spins the speed of the engine and creates a vacuum effect behind the radiator to help cycle air thru the engine bay and to properly pull air into the radiator. there is no other fan for the SR that works like the OEM clutch fan does!

what bumper you run also plays a huge part too. the chuki bumpers have the WORST air flow out of any S13 bumper period! in my last coupe, i switched from a chuki bumper to an OEM kouki bumper... normal operating temp dropped 20+ degrees!

but yeah, in real heat the SR requires clutch fan + shroud! PERIOD!

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zombiewolf513

Im in AZ, I run only water, 1/2 gallon of 50/50 antifreeze + bottle water wetter, heater core bypassed, mishi e-fans, chuki bumper and stay between 76-82* C.

You run 100% antifreeze dorki?

dorkidori_s13

yeup, running water in extremely dry conditions (like NV or AZ) causes it to evaporate and rust to form. when coolant boils, all of the water evaporates in dry climates and causes air pockets as well.

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RalliartRsX

Here is a VERY good article about cooling on the SR. Read it from top to bottom! You will learn a thing or two, even if it may or may not apply to your current situation

Factual Cooling Data for 240SX with Numbers!

Kaifd3s

Thank bro, I read that a LONG time ago. What the article showed was that ducting is the biggest difference.

Thinking about running a factory underpanel now. Thoughts?

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KiLLeR2001

Never will I use a clutch fan again. On my first 240sx, I had a water pump stud snap off and the clutch fan broke free and caused all sorts of havoc underneath my engine bay. Tore up a lot of shit and left me stranded.

The stock clutch fan is bulky, an OEM replacement fan clutch costs about $200, and aftermarket ones are a crapshoot. I'm in Orlando, FL in blazing Florida heat and my Altima fans have never failed me. My current set has been running since 2008 and they haven't missed a beat yet.

Like that article suggests. Ducting is key. A properly arranged set of e-fans will always reign supreme over the clutch fan design. You couldn't pay me enough to re-install a stock clutch fan back into any 240sx I own.

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fliprayzin240sx

^^^Must have been a shitty autozone water pump. The studs on those are notoriously suspect.

For my situation, clutch fan was the only thing that worked for me in Okinawa. Went from being able to go drift for 5-10 mins to be out there until my brand new tires are dead. Again, I still had AC. I've tried FALs and FD E-fans and even went as far as mounted a larger R33 condenser E-fan that turns on with the AC but temp still crept to 100*.

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az_240

Nice article... will need to invest in a cooling panel soon.

I know there are dudes that have issues with E-fans here in AZ... who knows how they are setup tho. Most go back to the mechanical fan in the end.

Ichiban4

I live in Texas.

Alum Rad
Flexalite e-fans
Nismo Thermo
40/60water
FMIC in front of the rad
Upper cooling panel

My temps avg 160-185. After a couple laps (drifting) on the track it will go up to about 210 and I will let it cool back down.

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KendallH

Best cooling on SR:

OEM Nissan thermostat (get it, its cheap insurance)
Clutch fan/shroud (do you want 200+ HP cooling your engine or .5 HP?)
Green coolant, mix depending on your region

Period. Provided there are no other issues with your cooling system, properly bled and you're not running some sort of super race engine, this is the best setup.

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ixfxi

i dont see the big deal here

i ran both, clutch and efans.... i think its all a matter of preference and usage

if you never want to think of a fan, and never want to think of wiring, then a clutch fan is the way to go. i didnt like mine for a multitude of reasons:
1) they can fail, and when they do they tend to howl like a garbage truck
2) they take up so much room and hinder access to the front of the motor

i liked the efan setup.. i ran the slim dual FAL setup. you need to use heavy gauge wiring and twin relays. the main reason people have problems with the efan setup is because of the included thermostat that most fans use- the shitty probes that fit between the radiator fins. these are complete trash.

i used a screw-in thermoswitch that i plumbed into the hot side (output) of the coolant system.... fans turned on at 190 or so.

besides that, i think the biggest problem people have is bleeding their system. people simply dont know how to properly bleed the system. raise the front, use a funnel and let the car idle and bleed itself. done and done. out here in socal i barely used any antifreeze... something like 20% to prevent corrosion.

dorkidori_s13

i will agree with your stance to a point, its just that most people in the 240 scene buy cheaply made parts and thats a huge thing. cheaply made radiators arent produced the same way as name brand ones (the main difference is in the upper and lower tanks, cheap radiators are mostly solid where Koyos are hollow), most e-fans become a huge hindrance after 50+mph simply because they start blocking air thats supposed to be flowing thru the radiator fins and most folks dont take into account the heat vs engine temps needed, even just under daily driving circumstances. Oil viscosity also plays a major role too! those running anything below 10w-40 will have problems... the minimum recommended weight from nissan for the SR is 10w-40 and 10w-50 in the summer with temps above 90deg. 5w-30 and 10w-30 simply dont have the viscosity to properly lubricate internal engine parts without burning after a while. i tend to burn off almost an entire quart of 10w-30 when i use it, with 10w-40 and above, i barely burn off 1/16th of a quart (its usually damn near full when i change oil with 10w-40 or 20w-50). oil viscosity does play a role in your engines general internal temps!

if done properly and with the right parts purchase, an e-fan setup can work very well, however, living in the climate i do, i have yet to ever see an e-fan setup work in Vegas. underhood temps in the summer are astronomical, especially for those running tubular manifolds or OEM manifolds with heatcovers on them (add about 30-50 deg easily to your underhood temps this way). part of the clutch fans job is to push air backwards into the engine to help cool the heads, the block and to push unwanted exhaust manifold temps outwards and downwards. this is all fine and good if youre building a track car, though your run time on the course will be heavily hindered when compared to the clutch fan (ive seen SO many cali guys with e-fans pull out only after 2-3 laps AT MOST as their cars start to over heat very quickly).

in climates that are much more tame than vegas (where you dont have 150+ deg heat coming from the blacktop of the streets), e-fans seem to work fairly well, especially when you wire up a dual altima fan setup (which has been tried and test as the best e-fan upgrade for the s chassis). im not sure how well they do with daily driving, but it seems if you spend the money on a good setup (quality fan and radiator), daily driving isnt an issue... especially if you wire up the themostat like you mentioned earlier.

one noticeable thing ive seen with SRs in their general operating temps is the type of gas used. here in vegas we can get 100 octane and E85 at the pumps. both (especially 100) seem to lower the normal operating temp of the engine by at least 10 degs during normal driving and help massively with engine stability and acceleration as the SR was tuned for Japan and European octane ratings... not the shit we have in the US. 91/93 is nice and all, but the SR was made to run on no less than 95 from everything ive learned over the years with friends in Japan. the gas we have here is a joke to be honest.

but yeah, its all in personal preference and you will need to experiment. ive run an OEM clutch fan and shroud with a Koyo 55mm aluminum radiator since i can remember with my SR and have had ZERO cooling issues with it. if you want to get REALLY down and dirty, an oil cooler is the kittens mittens! oil coolers are a HUGE thing on SRs, talk about stabilizing your engines general temps... they are nuts. friend of mine had one on his fully built S14 drift car and the thing NEVER NEVER NEVER got hot!!! i took it for 5-6 full runs around the track at wide open throttle, the coolant temp never budged once! oil temps went up a few degrees, but settled right down once the car idled for a few moments!

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ixfxi

it should be common sense that people run the proper weight oil for this car, right? I would hope so. All people need to do is read the FSM.

i never had overheating issues, ever. it all just depends on how you configure things. besides, the efans are only used at low speeds - they never activate past what... 15mph? i've never had a situation where the fans turn on at speed.

even at the track, the only problem i had was my turbo coming loose from the manifold - but thats another issue of its own. locking hardware becomes critical if you track your car.

i'll agree though, oil cooler certainly helps things

corkscrew

180-195

100% water in the cooling system. stock fan, no shroud. florida heat

indomiekid1

I’m running the clutch fan/shroud, 50/50 coolant, and copper radiator – no problems---EVER!

jamg

errrrrrr

when you are at cruising speed, the effect of the clutch/E fan becomes minimal, no?

it works best when the car is at a stop light, but air is passes through the car while you are at a higher rate of speed. ducting the air would be a better solution.

ixfxi

both efan and/or clutch fan are useless when moving at higher speeds.

whats more important is that you run a quality radiator that is not plugged up inside AND does not have bent fits.

i dont know why anyone would run 100% water as coolant is needed to lubricate the water pump and prevents corrosion

its interesting to see that there is a lot of confusion among the community here.

KiLLeR2001

For spring/summer/fall I like to use 100% distilled water + a full bottle of water wetter. During winter I'll usually switch to a 50/50 water/coolant mix.

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TheRealSy90

After doing what I thought would be a good cooling setup, now I can't get my car to warm up hardly. Cruising around town it sits under 100 F which is as low as my temp gauge reads. I can get it up to 130 F if I pretty much top it out in fifth gear, but then as soon as I slow down it's back to 100F or less. I think I need to go back to an oem thermostat.

Nismo thermostat. Koyorad, oem clutch fan and shroud with the bottom and side add on pieces. NRG cooling panel. Temp sensor is in the lower hose, i'm going to install a defi temp gauge in the upper hose as well. This is with 50/50 mix, I used to run straight distilled water with 1 bottle of water wetter until I did the koyorad.

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RalliartRsX

TheRealSy90, typically speaking, there should only be a 10 F difference between the inlet and outlet. However, a probe in the outlet of the block (upper water neck) is the appropriate place for readings, so I would move your probe before I do anything else and have a proper baseline.

100F seems extremely low (especially considering your AZ location) and I would be more worried of incorrect readings due to probe placement

ixfxi

your sensor is in the wrong location. you WILL not get useful readings from that sensor location.

the sensor needs to be located pre thermostat, i would suggest the stock location.