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Tech Talk Technical Discussion About The Nissan 240SX and Nissan Z Cars |
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08-01-2008, 01:22 PM | #31 | |
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08-01-2008, 01:31 PM | #32 |
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08-01-2008, 01:43 PM | #34 |
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Pretty sure the threaded housings for the rear dampers serve the purpose of providing a place for the shock to bolt to as well, so hacking the bottom off would probably be not possible.
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08-01-2008, 02:50 PM | #36 |
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You know, now that I think about it, I'm not sure if changing to a shorter spring will really make your car lower; it would just change how much travel you have. I think any height differences you experience from that will just be from how the springs react to the first xxx pounds - I know we are all suppose to have linear springs w/ the coilovers, but the quality of each spring manufacturer is a lil diff.
I actually run longer springs on my megans & it didn't get higher. Sorry. You may still want to change out the springs anyway, but I don't think it will lower the car much, if at all. Looks like your only chance is to preload the springs, but you're going to have to probably preload quite a bit.
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08-01-2008, 03:03 PM | #37 |
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08-01-2008, 11:28 PM | #38 |
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drop the locking collar and buy some helper springs and put them between
the spring and top mount and they compress while there is weight on the car and giving you up to 2"+ drop. kinda like what the tanabe coils use l ike these |
08-02-2008, 04:29 AM | #40 |
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Helper springs in this case would help if you had spring droop and your car was airborn long enough for the spring to become unseated from the top of the shock. If you had the helper spring it would act as if there was 2 extra inches of spring holding it up allowing it to stay seated, but once the weight of the car is put back down the helper spring compresses back down and gives you your desired ride height.
Edit: You would still lose shock travel from the spring droop though. Either way, just man up and do it. See if it works (it probably will be fine) and if you accidently blow them, whatever they're just cheap megans anyway. |
08-02-2008, 07:11 AM | #41 |
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In the rear, spring length has nothing to do with ride height. Only thing that matter is whether you droop the spring so cutting springs, heating springs, and switching springs in the back will do nothing for you. So much misinformation posted in this thread.
Droop the spring the amount you want your car to go lower. You will lose the amount of shock travel that you droop it but in my experience it doesn't cause the shocks to blow faster. I've been drooping mine about a half an inch now for years with no problem. I could care less about helper springs because my car is never air born unless I'm working on it or if I'm going up a steep driveway slowly, both of which you don't need helper springs to pick up the slack. |
08-02-2008, 10:27 PM | #42 |
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have you thought about freeway bumps when there is a bump like the one on the 405 that causes my suspension to be at full extension thats why i recommended helper springs. And he wants to go more than half an inch which will cause it to most likely blow
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08-02-2008, 11:20 PM | #44 |
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08-03-2008, 12:14 AM | #46 | |
Leaky Injector
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Quote:
I think he was talking about the threaded part, not the sleeve. I think that idea is worth looking into if the threaded portion goes all the way to the bottom of the sleeve. That way you can change the preload, then crank the extra threaded portion into the sleeve. ??? maybe? |
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08-03-2008, 07:18 PM | #50 |
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dude ryota I have some cement at my house when you come over tomorrow we will fill your trunk up and then the weight will lower the rear. Easy fix
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