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S Chassis Technical discussion related to the S Chassis such as the S12, S13, S14, and S15.


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Old 12-27-2013, 10:50 AM   #31
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Im not really into half ass things, so aftermarket 2way diff is in the future,, after car is running proper n what not, i have questions about what diff/rear to use, but ill search for old threads before bringing that up,,n thanks for all the info guys
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Old 12-27-2013, 10:52 AM   #32
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N yes,, them ebay arms/parts are always a no-no in my book,, my hondas arent ur average ricer u see on the street, there legit cars,lol,
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Old 12-27-2013, 04:40 PM   #33
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the whole point of what?

i don't understand what you're trying to prove here, why would you try it if you knew it would ruin your rings

it's still running good and about a half tank left. once it's empty i'm changing the oil. not sure how 8oz of seafoam in about 120oz of oil is gonna make much of a difference. maybe you fried your rings from going thru the brake booster line too much at once? or maybe they were almost already fried. god only knows
When I say "thins", I mean "cuts". Seafoam is naptha and rubbing alcohol, if you check the msds.

I'm sure it is still running good. What's the tank got to do with anything? Seafoam, like any other motor flush, should only be run for a short time, at low rpm. You can leave pretty much all you want in your gas, if you don't mind high alcohol gas, and you can introduce it through the booster and it dissolves crap in your intake and combustion chambers, but if it's in the oil it cuts it. If you do it through the booster you should probably change your ail after just because of all the crud, but there's no particular risk to the motor, if it's sound.

And, who knows about my rings? I know, exactly. Forgot I had a full dose of it in the motor and was going to drive it gently and briefly, but then ended up going somewhere instead of changing my oil. Didn't change it for a hundred miles or so (they SAY you can always leave it in, anyways.... "safe" and whatnot), and now it smokes way worse than before, but all cylinders have equal compression.... because the seafoam kept the oil from doing it's job and preventing metal/metal contact, and wore the crap out of all the rings/cylinders at once.

So, like I said: it's a really really bad idea, but don't take my word for it, try your luck.
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Old 12-27-2013, 04:44 PM   #34
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ok so im being told a welded diff will be just as good ,if not better then a aftermarket 2wat,, speaking in terms of drag, not drifting, yet he says just as good for drift,,is this true??
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Old 12-27-2013, 06:32 PM   #35
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A welded better than a 2-way? Psh open is the way to go.
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Old 12-27-2013, 06:33 PM   #36
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hahaha^^^^ this guy lmao
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I'll trade you my 300ZX and my older sister
my 240 broke down..again
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Old 12-27-2013, 06:59 PM   #37
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ok so im being told a welded diff will be just as good ,if not better then a aftermarket 2wat,, speaking in terms of drag, not drifting, yet he says just as good for drift,,is this true??
If your 240 is making enough power for drag to be remotely meaningful, you will have put enough money into it to easily justify the 500 dollars or so that an r200 spool costs. Drag with a stock SR is totally and utterly fucking stupid, a camry would win. Do one pass. Or two. And then you've felt all that drag will make you feel. And drag cars are fucking useless to even get to the track.

Welding is just a half assed spool.

And driving cars with spools on the street is commonly accepted as stupid and masochistic, it's just ghetto welded spool 240 guys who get online and say it's okay.

So, if you want to drive to the track, you need a 2-way.

Not knowing this simple shit, you should NOT do ANYTHING to your car, especially not what your friends/acquaintainces tell you to. Slow and steady, you shouldn't modify anything, you should drive it around a lot, you should mantain things without "upgrading" anything until you're really familliar with the car.
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