DRFIRME

new to the whole rwd and nissan game,PROUD new owner of a sr swapped s13. WHAT R THE MAJOR NEEDED UPGRADES TO START OFF?
already has stance coilovers and the swap.
any help appreciated

Therealdapnyc

Rebuild the suspension completely included a master bushing kit if not done and depending on wat you wanna do so many options


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DRFIRME

so like a energy suspension bushing kit?? i forgot to add, the car will be more of a drag, car then drift,,IM A FWD HONDA GUY,LOL, now getting into the nissan game, so im COMPLETELY CLUELESS.

Therealdapnyc

You gotta slide it it's a 240 man lol


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DRFIRME

IM SURE IT WILL ,, ESPECIALLY GOING DOWN THE TRACK,LOL, all my other nissan friends r into drifting, already baggin on me for wanting to use it for drag,

Therealdapnyc

I would to lol


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DRFIRME

so wat else besides the bushings n say a mount kit,, anything super important thats like a MUST??

fliprayzin240sx

You can start by learning how to type. When you're done with that, you can then start by learning about the car first. Figure out what's already done to it before you start tearing into it and potentially replacing stuff that you dont need to replace.

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Fuego

There are no "needed/necessary" upgrades. Read up on your car, learn to drive it, modify from there.

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Therealdapnyc

I agree with these guys def do your research but you might as well replace it all just so you know yourself it's good to go and not going by someone's word


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DRFIRME

rather start fresh, but ya, i agree as far as learning the car, so what would be considered the chassis "weak spot"?

Therealdapnyc

Starting fresh is the best way to go as you remove you'll find some things you didn't need to replace and can store it for later use when something breaks


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acslater9

I died when I saw this. lol

Well like others said do research. You should've gotten a stock car its way better than someone elses "not finished" car.

Rayne

No need for anyone to say anything more in this thread than what I have quoted above.

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DRFIRME

CAR JUST ONLY HAS SR SWAP AND STANCE COILOVERS,, TRADED FOR A STOCK 1990 HONDA,, HOW COULD I PASS THE DEAL,LOL

240boi115

is it a stock sr? how many miles on it? the very first thing i do when i get a car is check for what it has and doesnt have ex( rust, any damage that wasnt told to me, and ESPECIALLY half ass work) from there i do a full personal service on the car, fluid check, oil change, radiator flush, ect. then repair any half ass work as itll be a pain in your ass later in your build. a weak spot in the chassis?? well to be honest its a friggin 20 year old car so its for sure weaker than when it was new. since you want to drag the car you need a cage. NEED A CAGE!!! itll save your life bro and depending on if your car is a hatch or coupe reflects on how much bracing will be needed. we all know the whole coupe vs hatch debate but true to speak if your car is a hatch youll need some extra bracing to handle the stress your car will be handling. im sure ive missed a shit ton of other tips and shit but thats what i got for you thus far.

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DRFIRME

thanks for the info guys

OMFGeofffff

NOS, two of the big bottles. Put it on my tab at Harry's.

sleepyS14se

http://zilvia.net/f/motorsports-skil...beginners.html



this is not a game btw, this is real life AFAIK....maybe i need to re-evaluate what a game is IDK...

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95 S14 se RB25DET 348whp

DRFIRME

[QUOTE=sleepyS14se;5511912]http://zilvia.net/f/motorsports-skil...beginners.html



NOT BUILDING FOR DRIFT

sleepyS14se

if this is strictly for drag use than just stick with your honda.

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95 S14 se RB25DET 348whp

jr_ss

Wow, there is a lot of full retard in here...

Read anything and everything pertaining to chassis and engine related items. A tune up would be a great place to start, along with making the car safe, such as brakes, tires, alignment. Then fixing issues like bad bushings, ball joints, etc, etc. You have more than enough work for a few weeks, come back with specific questions.

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mechanicalmoron

Unless it's TOTALLY trashed, don't swap a rubber bushing for a poly bushing, in the rear. It may be superior on the two connections of the lca to the subframe (since they can't twist, and thus bind, because there are 2), but the multilink movement creates binding issues that can make the suspension travel unpredictable, as they catch and slip.

The bushings are probably fine, IF any change in height via the coils involved also breaking and re-torquing all bolts securing bushings, with the car sitting on the ground or the suspension arm jacked up (if you do this, first record your wheel arch height on the ground, then record your coil height, then set your coil to max low, so you can jack the arm high enough without lifting your car off the stands.). The bushings that are probably bad are the subframe ones - you can tell if they where replaced with solids or have had collars installed by lying next to your car, and if they haven't, it's a half hour job with 4 bolts.

You need a torque wrench to touch that stuff. Read the FSM, which you will find if you google "s13 fsm", or "s13 fsm nico" or something like that. It's got your torque specs, and is a great FREE reference, strait from the horses mouth, to read through before you even start a project.

There's probably nothing that needs to be done to your car, just ongoing maintainence, and learn about it. Keep your honda shit OUT, do NOT replace all the bushings or arms just because you can get ebay ones, do NOT buy or use shitty megan/godspeed/other knockoff type brands, it's FAR better to have OEM. Don't slam it, it will handle best at stock height, or just a tad (like an inch, or less) lower, unless you have thousands of dollars in fancy new knuckles, arms, and the works.

Don't drift it into anything. Don't try to drift in any situation where there's anything anywhere near you - you will hit it. Don't even try to drift it, if nothing was mentioned about it it's got an open diff, it won't have proper throttle steer because only one wheel will be spinning faster that the ground. (it will get about 20 degrees sideways in first, and then stop wanting to, because of that dragging wheel - and when it snaps strait, it will be hard and abrupt - it will make you look like a ricer tool who can't drive, not a cool drifter) Learn to drive it and get to know it before you think about drifting.

Han

yeah don't bother drifting with the open diff. it jerks harder than you would think lol. i fishtailed once and spun the other way but i knew what i was risking and it was a safe place. i just traded my 93 civic for a complete stock 89 240 a couple months ago and i'm so pleased with it. i'd say start with sway bars and replace shot bushings with oem. i was debating going full energy suspension but after reading more, its not worth it. just do all maintenance work that it needs and get it running as solid as you can. replace anything thats broken. upgrade the brakes. clean out all the carbon deposits if you feel like. i've seen a couple ka's and they were full of carbon. one had a leaky valve. one option is tear off the head and replace the head gasket, clean out the ports, valve, intake, etc. second option; i'm in the process of running sea foam through everything. i've seen it done before and it burns out a lot of carbon deposits so i'm giving it a shot. once the tank goes empty i'll finish the process. some say it's not a good idea others say it works wonders, just expect to replace o2 sensor and plugs afterwards. you can try replacing the rotor, wires, and plugs, it's inexpensive and you'll probably feel a slight difference or at least you'll see it in the mpg's. clean the maf, may or may not help but doesn't hurt to try. put some redline mt 75w-90 oil in the transmission. get a stage 2 clutch and a short shifter just for the feel if you want. and a light flywheel while you're at it. i'm looking to boost but i'll need to save up a whole lot and learn a ton. it's something you'll have to decide for yourself

mechanicalmoron

There's some horrible advice there, IMO.

Like, if the motor's in the car, and runs, removing the OEM head/headgasket is NOT a good idea. If it ain't broke, don't fix it, you don't need to remove the head to de-coke it and the gasket should be good for about as long as any other part in the motor, and lots longer than some.

De-coking is a matter of keeping all the fluids clean, and when you run the motor, running it hot and for a long time. doing seafoam through the brake booster is fine and will address the carbon buildup in the intake, but putting it (or, more than a fraction of what they suggest) in your oil, or doing more than idling a minute with it in there, seems stupid.

Han

those were just the thoughts that passed through my head from personal experience. not the best idea unless it's going to be a re/build, or in my case you have a spare block. i'm still all for the sea foam though. i don't know why you'd recommend vacuuming it over pouring it in the oil or gas tank. that's the least safest route to go. the percentage of seafoam being ignited in the oil or gas is far less than thru the brake booster line. here's a link on someone else who did it, there's no real proof, just a story. but i believe it, also there's a list of good stuff to do
Car runs like new...here's what I did : 240SX Technical Forum

when it comes down to it, i would probably just get new ignition parts, ignition timing, do maintenance stuff, and hook it up to an oscillator to see how it looks. then you'll know if there's anything else wrong or if you're clear

mechanicalmoron

The whole point is ignition.

It thins your oil, and eats your rings.

Go ahead and try it. I did.

Han

the whole point of what?

i don't understand what you're trying to prove here, why would you try it if you knew it would ruin your rings

it's still running good and about a half tank left. once it's empty i'm changing the oil. not sure how 8oz of seafoam in about 120oz of oil is gonna make much of a difference. maybe you fried your rings from going thru the brake booster line too much at once? or maybe they were almost already fried. god only knows

sleepyS14se

this is like the most mixed post of correct and incorrect info
Bushings are top priority
Short shifter is in vein and not needed
removing a head to just clean it is just to make ya feel good (not needed)
redline mt90 is excellent
seafoam helps but doesn't make miracles.
light flywheel is not needed to drift
get your diff welded

BUSHINGS ARE TOP PRIORITY

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95 S14 se RB25DET 348whp

DRFIRME

Thank u mechanicalmoron, thats the type of info i was lookin for,, n no not stricly drag use, its a daily driver that will b used to race as opposed to drifting, yes i leave the real drags to both my hondas,, i just wanted a clean fun car to boost around in , wanted to finally b open minded to new things/cars so went rwd, that being said figured nothing better then a s13