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S Chassis Technical discussion related to the S Chassis such as the S12, S13, S14, and S15. |
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11-26-2012, 04:58 PM | #31 |
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Changed the clutch line with a SS one and the problem is still there. Colder weather, pressure decreases. Warmer weather and after the car warms up, pedal stiffens. Went to the track day and clutch was still grabbing even while very stiff.
Any more ideas? Friend suggested that I used the wrong grease on the throwout bearing and transmission shaft and that's leading to the bearing not being able to move easily. |
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11-26-2012, 05:19 PM | #32 |
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What type of clutch are you using?
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11-26-2012, 07:51 PM | #34 |
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I am having 100% the same problems with my ka-t with the clutch. I have a brand new master, slave, clutch, and new SS clutch line. Still cant figure it out. Only thing i can think of is the pressure plate not holding bc when mine does it it wont even brake the tires loose. When it doesn't do it tho i have no problem breaking them loose.
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11-27-2012, 05:34 PM | #36 |
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So basically you are saying that replacing my hardline will get rid of this problem? For some reason I highly doubt that.
I have adjusted my clutch pedal numerous times and I bypassed the clutch dampener a long time ago. |
11-27-2012, 05:39 PM | #37 | |
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Quote:
How much slop do you have on your pivot arm/TOB at rest? Next time you notice the clutch issue, check to see if that has changed. Your TOB rod isn't bent is it?
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11-27-2012, 06:30 PM | #39 | |
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Quote:
My TOB rod is not bent. If it were, I don't know how that would affect it the way it's affecting my pedal? |
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11-27-2012, 06:42 PM | #40 |
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As in, when you are not pressing on the clutch pedal, how much play do you have between the slave and the PP fingers. Can you wiggle the TOB arm forward and backwards in the direction it typically moves?
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11-29-2012, 02:53 AM | #42 |
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How am I supposed to know how much play there is between the slave and Pressure Plate fingers? They don't even touch. I can not move the TOB arm forward in the direction it moves.
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11-29-2012, 11:40 AM | #43 |
when I push my clutch in to shift it does not come out all the way. I found out one night that the previous owner had wrapped a bungee cord around the very top of the clutch so it would disengage fully. Now while shifting and pushing the clutch in all the way down and shifting i sometimes grind the gears. While shifting i can feel the gears spinning and have to wait till they disengage so i will not grind while shifting. Have you tried replacing the clutch, flywheel, pressure plate, and throwout bearing to ensure all are new? I will have to wait till I will be done training in the field before I can change all those out. With also the master cylinder and lines.
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11-29-2012, 11:57 AM | #44 |
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So you cannot move the TOB arm that protrudes from the side of the trans either forward or backward? It should be marginal at best, so you really shouldn't see much movement. I'm just trying to get an idea and rule out things it could possibly be.
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11-29-2012, 12:50 PM | #46 | ||
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Quote:
Quote:
I actually read another thread that had a guy do that but did not alleviate the problem. |
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11-29-2012, 03:00 PM | #47 | |
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Quote:
Nismo slave's are more commonly swapped on for heavy duty clutches, not because pedal pressure changes while you are driving. I recall you stating your fluid was already changing colors after installing the MC a week prior. Have you since replaced it? I would buy an OEM MC and go from there. Sometimes it's impossible to actually pinpoint the problem. I'm still leaning towards the MC leaking down/drawning air into it. Have you noticed any leaks inside the cabin coming from the MC?
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11-29-2012, 06:09 PM | #48 | |
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Quote:
No leaks inside the cabin from the master. But it does seem like the seals on the master or slave go out rather quick seeing as how the fluid gets dark quickly. I've been holding off on the OEM master and slave because they're like 100 dollars each lol. I'd rather buy tires but what can I do. I have wheel bearings to replace too. Cars... |
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11-30-2012, 12:34 PM | #49 |
Pretty sure the answer has been given, I was having the same issue, replaced Slave Cyl, didn't work, bled everything, didn't work!
Delete the clutch dampener and replace the clutch master cylinder and everything should be PERFECT! |
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11-30-2012, 07:33 PM | #50 |
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I had the exact same issue and ended up replacing the master, slave, deleting the clutch dampener and hardlines with an agency power 52" ss clutch line, bled it and problem was solved. Later noticed a pin hole in my slaves rubber boot.
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02-04-2013, 02:37 PM | #53 |
I had the same issue with 3 of my remanufactured CM cylinder from the parts store. So i decided to tear each of them down and find out what was failing.
Attached to the piston is a valve that lets fluid in when you let go of the pedal, this little valve went bad in all 3 of my reman CMC in my car in less then a year, very frustrating! So i bought a( MASTER CYLINDER REPAIR KIT) for about $18 from Nissan and put in the reman cylinder and works perfect. |
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02-12-2013, 11:07 AM | #55 |
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this might not be the problem but, are you shure your throw out bearing isnt bad. it shouldnt really affect pedal pressure but it could affect how and where the clutch engages.
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12-05-2013, 06:47 AM | #57 | |
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Quote:
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