iamtheyi

Lately I have been having an issue with the pressure of my clutch pedal. My clutch pedal engagement likes to move around a lot when I start to drive. It will at times move the engagement point just short of the top of the clutch pedal travel and sometimes it will drop just short of the bottom.

I have noticed that when I do a hard pull onto a freeway on-ramp, the clutch pressure will drop closer to the floor. It only comes back when pumping and forcing full movement from the bottom of travel, and pulling it back all the way up with my foot.

My clutch kit is about 1.5 to 2 months old. This problem persisted with my old master and cylinder so I replaced them about two to three weeks ago. The problem was temporarily relieved until about two days ago.

I have a 1995 Nissan 240sx with stock KA24DE. The clutch dampening box has been deleted.

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drifter1992

did you try bleeding the system? you could have air in the lines

iamtheyi

That I did sir.

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iamtheyi

Anybody have any solutions? Pedal falling to the floor again after driving on the freeway for about 15 min. Went to go depress the clutch to put the car into neutral and basically no pedal pressure. Had to pull it up with my foot to increase pressure enough to take the car out of gear.

When I had come to a stop at the light, I smelt what I think was burning clutch.

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godrifttoday

Sounds like your slave... And how u bleed the system?

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NEED Bolt kits for your car?

iamtheyi

I just replaced the slave. But, I had a friend pump the clutch, hold it down, open bleeder screw, then close it.

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revert

Repeat... Repeat ... Repeat... Should get better

iamtheyi

adjusted the engagement point with the rod on the Clutch MC and it worked for a little then pulled. Just bled it and pressure is all back. Will report back to see if it was a temporary or permanent fix.

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g00se

any leaks?

iamtheyi

So far there are none that I can visibly see from the master or the slave. The lines seem to be okay too. Fluid level is constant.

I did notice another thing. My softline going to the slave cylinder could have used a little more tightening (not loose but could torque it down a little bit more) so I tightened that up a little bit too.

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iamtheyi

still having problems with the clutch pressure changing all the time. Ambient temperature also changes feel.

Any thoughts?

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terrymotorsports

If you have no leaks get a handy bottle man that wont let mc go dry get a cup with brake fluid in it route some vaccum line from bleeder screw to cup crack bleeder and pump to your hearts desire close bleeder pump once pick pedal off the floor and your good

terrymotorsports

If problem persists with no leak you are experiencing clutch fade at that point your making too much power for the pressure plate overheating it causing the spring steel restpoints to change

iamtheyi

Terry, none of what you said pertains to me. I know how to bleed my master. I also don't have "too much power". I'm stock KA.

bump again. Replaced the Clutch Master again and it did it again. If I adjust the clutch master a little bit too low, it loses all pressure and basically sinks to the floor. If I adjust it to where I like, it gets stiffer and the engagement point rises to almost the top of the travel when I start driving. It's ridiculous.

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KiLLeR2001

Are you replacing the clutch master/slave with autozone parts or OEM replacements from the dealership? Slave cylinders from autozone / local parts store never seem to last for me, OEM much better.

Also, do you have the exhaust manifold heat shield installed? Too much heat may be causing the fluid to overheat, I'm assuming you have no troubles with pedal feel when the car is cool?

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iamtheyi

I am currently replacing both the slave and the master with vatozone products.

Also, I do have the heat shield installed but you are correct in saying that I do not have a problem with pedal feel when the car is cooler.

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jr_ss

So, if you leave it at this point you have plenty of pedal pressure to operate the clutch, you just don't like it's release point?

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My SR20VET

iamtheyi

It's not that I don't like the engagement point, it moves upward along the travel of the clutch as I drive. I have a paranoid feeling that the throwout bearing is resting on the pressure plate because it is engaging so high.

Basically when I start driving, there is about 1 in free play in the clutch pedal. After cruising for a bit more, there is no free play.

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jr_ss

Try adjusting your rod all the way out of the MC, meaning you'd have a lot stick out in the cabin. Rebleed it and see what it does.

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My SR20VET

iamtheyi

I have done that before already. Problem persists.

I already have most of the rod sticking into the cabin. If I adjust the engagement point any lower, it won't hold pressure.

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jr_ss

Did you bench bleed the MC before you installed it?

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My SR20VET

iamtheyi

I did bench bleed it sir.

I checked the master today and the fluid is already getting darker. I installed it last week. This is bullshit. You guys think that the autozone master and slaves are just big pieces of shit even brand new?

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terrymotorsports

Yep they are only last about a year your dark fluid comes from your soft line that's normal how much fluid did you push through the system and was it a freshly sealed bottle

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When you all have jdm nose swaps ill be the cool guy

iamtheyi

lol. I put in the clutch slave cylinder last month. It was a fresh bottle of brake fluid. I always use a new bottle when bleeding or installing new clutch hydraulic stuff. I know about it absorbing water/moisture in the air when opened.

I bled it until all my old fluid was out and the fluid coming out was new.

You think my soft line going to the slave cylinder could be bad somehow? This crossed my mind couple times but I didn't have any evidence it could be.

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terrymotorsports

If your sitting still before you drive and pump the clutch does it get stiffer than the initial depression I had this similar problem about 8 years ago ran a big bottle of fluid through the system using Line in container of fluid it eliminated my one inch free pedal issue and no longer had thermal expansion (ambient temperature variance) I have never had a Nissan clutch bleed properly by the pump hold method I change my slave once a year because advanced sucks all your symptoms point to air or moisture in the system I'm not crazy I'm ase master automotive technician in all categories and spent six years in the dealerships

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When you all have jdm nose swaps ill be the cool guy

terrymotorsports

It's possible your softline could be Bad but not likely Get a friend to depress pedal while you watch the line for excessive expansion I got tired of dirty fluid and made a braided line plus it helps with pedal feel

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When you all have jdm nose swaps ill be the cool guy

iamtheyi

Okay. I would like to just say:
#1 What the fuck are you saying? Can you use periods please?

#2 I tried to read what you are saying, and I mean really try, but I still don't really understand what the hell you are trying to say.

#3 All I see is "I'm not crazy I'm ase master automotive tech [who doesn't know how to type in coherent sentences to get my thoughts across and doesn't know how to use periods]" (ASE master technician doesn't really hold any weight with me. I know plenty who have that certification that diagnose cars incorrectly and are extremely closed minded to any sort of guidance. Meaning they are prideful, pompous assholes)

#4 I appreciate your help Terry. But I do not understand you.

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terrymotorsports

Okay. I dropped out of school. I didn't think punctuation was necessary to help you. Just as I was unaware profanity is necessary to Get a point across. I offered you potential solutions to your issue without condescension. I accept guidance just fine and help fellow enthusiasts diagnose concerns. I began a career in the automotive industry as an apprentice. I didn't get my certifications through automotive technology programs. I learned on the job so yes I can diagnose.

#1 check your soft line for excessive expansion when you depress the pedal....

#2 you probably still have air in the system.

#3 get a container of fluid... place a hose from bleeder port into the container... open the bleeder... pump the pedal while someone keeps the master cylinder full using a big bottle of fluid until it is gone... close the bleeder screw and you should have a properly bled clutch.

#4 good luck and don't be a douche when someone takes their time to offer you help

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When you all have jdm nose swaps ill be the cool guy

iamtheyi

I will check the softline for expansion. That's the one thing I haven't done because I can't get under the car while pressing the clutch lol; however, I did bleed my system exactly the way you described. Got a hose from the slave to a bottle of fluid while pumping the clutch and keeping the M/C full.

I appreciate your help. I use profanity in typing because I use it in real life lol. I cuss a little more than I should . I wasn't trying to be a douche. I apologize if I came across as one

I numbered my sentences to organize my own thoughts and separate the different ideas I had. But seriously, I can understand you now lol.

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terrymotorsports

Iamtheyi,

No worries brother, I'm a special forces vet with extreme ptsd. I understand fully and struggle not to be profane on this site bc I don't want kicked off lol. I do often need advice to save hours with a meter and my car from my sledgehammer (it happens when I get angry with my own stuff.) Good luck, and I hope you get it fixed soon I hate when my toy is broken. I will check for service bulletins regarding this concern.

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When you all have jdm nose swaps ill be the cool guy