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Old 01-20-2008, 03:34 PM   #1
NecroS14
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broken bolt while installing subframe spacers

The front sub frame bolts came off smooth, the rears we had a problem, it was too tight! We followed all the instructions, because we literally did the sub frame spacers on a friends car the day before. We lubed it up with pb blast let it sit still nothing, so we used power tools, and the bolt complete broke off, I was wondering how would I replace this bolt. Your advice is appreciated
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Old 01-20-2008, 07:26 PM   #2
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The subframe stud?

Ouch.

It's pressed into the unibody BEFORE the floor pan and such are welded on...so you have to locate the area where the top of the stud should be...and cut a hole in the floor...through 2 layers of metal, IIRC.

Then you can access the top...it's like a wheel stud.

Replace it with a large bolt and washer (up top)...or maybe get lucky and get one off a parts car...???

Sorry dude, that's a bitch. No exaggeration.

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Old 01-20-2008, 07:28 PM   #3
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The biggest pain in the ass ever. So much so I've actually seen someone weld his subframe to the chassis... hahaha good luck, don't weld it.
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Old 01-20-2008, 08:23 PM   #4
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Last guy I knew who did that scrapped the chassis.

You can buy the rear box that goes between the frame rails with the studs, cut/weld it in, but you're looking at several hundred dollars in labor.
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Old 01-20-2008, 09:05 PM   #5
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damn, i knew it wasn't gonna be an easy fix. so i'm guessing my car is out of comission for a long-ass time. since its a bitch to fix, anyone know about how long this might take?
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Old 01-20-2008, 10:54 PM   #6
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here's a picture of the problem



i thought maybe i could weld a nut to whats left of the bolt, any ideas?
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Old 01-20-2008, 11:22 PM   #7
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Quote:
Originally Posted by orion::S14 View Post
It's pressed into the unibody BEFORE the floor pan and such are welded on...so you have to locate the area where the top of the stud should be...and cut a hole in the floor...through 2 layers of metal, IIRC.
Not on my car, but been there, done that. I've done 6 or 7 of those up to that point, and had always 'worried' about that happening. Low and behold it did. Realizing that the only option was to cut, we went to town. Ended up grinding the top of the stud off, and just punching it out. Got some new hardware at Fastenal the next day, and the car has been operational ever since.
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Old 01-21-2008, 05:28 AM   #8
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http://www.rx7club.com/showthread.php?t=518333

write up on rx7club on this, Pretty much almost the same case.
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Old 01-21-2008, 05:53 PM   #9
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mine did the same.
i just left it.
i got tired of messing with it and there was no definite answer.

the car is just sitting in the yard now.
i got sick of messnig with it.
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Old 01-21-2008, 06:00 PM   #10
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i shoulda never read this thread, now i'm afraid to attempt to install my collars....
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Old 01-21-2008, 06:03 PM   #11
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hmmm im gonna heat mine up first...lol. Dont want this happening either.
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Old 01-21-2008, 06:05 PM   #12
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hahaha, yeah kinda regret doing it. oh well, now its time to fix it. Probably gonna have a few friends come over and attempt to fix it this weekend. I'll be sure to take some pictures for future reference.
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Old 01-21-2008, 06:23 PM   #13
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aaaaaaaaaahhhhhhhhhhhhhh thats nuttin.. i have seen alot worse..very fixable
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Old 01-21-2008, 06:30 PM   #14
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Yeah just get it fixed

Can be frustrating but as long as you have friends to help you there's much worse

Better that you replace stuff like that, rather than leave old stuff
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Old 01-21-2008, 08:26 PM   #15
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unsure how you snapped it... dropping cradles aint hard
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Old 01-21-2008, 08:33 PM   #16
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I work at a Nissan dealership and do a lot of 02-05 Altima subframe recalls. The one thing we have to be sure about is to not over tighten the subframe nuts because if the stud snaps then it's going straight to a body shop for a very expensive fix... If you can drop your subframe and get access to a cut off wheel and welder and fix it.... Good luck man
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Old 01-22-2008, 12:50 AM   #17
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yeah, it was over-tightened and just snapped. a buddie of mine has the tools needed and we'll see how it goes
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Old 01-22-2008, 01:09 AM   #18
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Quote:
Originally Posted by LongGrain View Post
i shoulda never read this thread, now i'm afraid to attempt to install my collars....
Don't use power tools to toque or to start taking off a bolt. Get a breaker bar and get a some on it to make it longer and there you go.
Power tools make stuff go faster that's about it. I rarely use them.
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Old 01-22-2008, 01:11 AM   #19
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yeah, i used a breaker bar and thats how it snapped, too much powwwaaaa
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Old 01-22-2008, 01:55 AM   #20
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Damn what a hassle. Gotta make sure when ur breaking a bolt with a long ass breaker bar to keep the socket aligned with the bolt. Good luck man.
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Old 01-22-2008, 02:16 AM   #21
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The same thing happened to my S13 when I was changing the subframe. My uncle (who is a machinst)and I took a rough estimate underneath the car where we thought the bolt would be, 3-5" away from your wheel well cutout and about 5-7" from the back seat (in the trunk). We then took a hole saw about 2" in diameter and cut into the trunk. Just be careful not to cut the crossmember. Loosen the rest of the studs and drop the subframe, then jack the car up a bit higher. Take a very heavy ball peen hammer and pound upward on the stud, it should pop out of the crossmember (you may have to saturate with fluid film). I tried to order one of these from Nissan but they told me I had to order the whole crossmember from Japan which would take a couple of months. So my uncle just cut the busted stud and a bolt that was the same diameter and welded the two together. Then machined them down to size in the lathe. Insert the stud back into the crossmember and take a long piece of metal or something heavy and pound it in place. It will draw tight once you tighten your subframe back into place, torque it at 225 ft/lbs. Hope this helps.
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Old 01-28-2008, 06:47 PM   #22
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Referring to not using air tools, I'd probably have to disagree, I use them all day at work and I think they can actually save you from breaking a bolt, say if you put a breaker bar on a nut and load it up with torque I think under so much strain and time it would be more likely to break, but with an Impact gun, you can hit it lots of times with high torque, but it doesn't load up and strain so much.
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