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Old 07-26-2010, 05:07 PM   #31
Dee
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Quote:
Originally Posted by greenman100 View Post
I have these, had to get a ton from McMaster. PM me if you want a set. Once I started using them, no problems.
I just order a bag of 50 from McMaster using the link provided above, I'm hoping these will help.

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Originally Posted by UNITEDMASTER View Post
To the OP ,if your still having trouble after doing all that you have done , I would suspect your flanges are the problem. Did you do any extended driving on the leaking manifold ??? If so then its suspect ,take it off ,take the studs out ,get a small sanding block or something flat put a peice of 320 grit on it & make a few light passes on the manifold flange. Then look for the high & low spots on the flange,surfacu as needed.

PS- I have seen even so called quality manifolds with jacked up flanges,welding distortion

I drove on the exhaust leak for about 40 minutes, it blew on my way home. I was under the impression that the stock cast manifold flange would not warp though?, I'll check it anyway though once I take everything out.
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Old 07-26-2010, 05:34 PM   #32
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I bought these: Circuit Sports Turbo Inlet Stud-Nut Combo [ CS-EXstud ] - Enjuku Racing - Performance Parts and High Quality Fabrication because mine kept coming loose too even WITH the factory locking tabs in place (not 100% sure I put those tight enough though).

I also put two nuts on each bolt (one set of locking nuts as well as seen in picture) which, along with getting new motor mounts, seems to have solved my problem.

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Old 07-30-2010, 09:23 PM   #33
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Quote:
Originally Posted by s14_sr20_silvia View Post
I bought these: Circuit Sports Turbo Inlet Stud-Nut Combo [ CS-EXstud ] - Enjuku Racing - Performance Parts and High Quality Fabrication because mine kept coming loose too even WITH the factory locking tabs in place (not 100% sure I put those tight enough though).

I also put two nuts on each bolt (one set of locking nuts as well as seen in picture) which, along with getting new motor mounts, seems to have solved my problem.

I tried this method on one of the outer studs that i could reach without taking everything loose and it seemed to stick. I drove it for a week and it hasn't budged. My question is were you able to double-nut the inner-studs closest to the block? From what i recall there was barely enough room to get one nut on.


I'm in the process of removing my turbo again tonight to try to get this resolved once and for all.



EDIT: Looks like those nuts from McMaster did the trick......I'll be using those from now on! Thanks
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Last edited by Dee; 07-31-2010 at 01:28 AM..
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Old 08-05-2010, 09:27 AM   #34
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Yeah.. I've got 2 nuts on each bolt.. did it with the motor out of the car though, and it was still difficult to get the block-side nuts on.
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Old 08-06-2010, 06:30 AM   #35
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I had an issue with the nuts on my turbo elbow that connects to the down pipe coming off and ended up getting jam nuts and lock-tight and it hasn't came loose since.
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