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Engine Tech Technical discussion related to all relevant engines such as KA, SR, RB, CA, 2JZ , L24/26/28, VG, VQ, and LSx series. |
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#1 |
Zilvia Addict
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![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() I know I can't be the only person that has had this problem, what are some suggestions short of just tack welding the sum-bitches to the flange?
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'78 280Z-LSx|76mm turbo|1840cam|8.8 Diff ![]() |
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#2 |
Leaky Injector
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This happened to almost every single SR that I have owned. I did exactly what you suggested; put spot welds on each of the nuts. If you want to pull it off, you can torque them a little and the spot welds break relatively easily.
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#3 |
FreshColdBeer.com
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yeah i have these nissan bolt retainer things, oem nissan parts i will sell you for $5each, they solved my problem, i event bought extras but havent needed them, they , the will hold the bolts in place. are you sure you are tightening them down enough. are you using an xo2 gasket, get an oem gasket, that is the other thing that has saved me
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#4 | |
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Quote:
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'78 280Z-LSx|76mm turbo|1840cam|8.8 Diff ![]() |
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#5 |
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Ive never had an issue with the locking tabs, but when i lock them down i try to knock them right on the nut and conform the corners of the tabs around the nut.
Basically I make the whole tab touch the nut. I use a 3/8 drive extension and a hammer
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#6 |
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You can also double up on nuts or get aircraft grade nuts.
The aircraft grade ones basically resist loosening due to vibration and heat better because (iirc) they have a slight change in thread pitch at the end. Downside is last time i checked you had to buy these in bulk and it was like 50 bucks for 100 of them or something. A small tack weld works but makes it a bitch to remove i would avoid this unless you have no other option |
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#7 |
Zilvia FREAK!
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I've used this Exhaust locking nuts with no issues so far on most of my builds... One thing to consider also is that your downpipe/exhaust is improperly placed.. I've seen some where a good mount of weight holding the exhaust was on the turbo as suppose to the hangers. Flex pipe helps as well.
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#10 |
Nissanaholic!
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LIke said above make sure your xaust has all the hangers on it. One trick I have done is to use jam nuts(2 per stud) instead of regular nuts.
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#11 |
Zilvia FREAK!
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^^ Nice... Thats putting ElectroMagnetism to work so it doesn't back out. Mad props to you first time seeing this done.
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#12 | |
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What kind of exhaust manifold do you have ? if you have some cheap ass chinese one.. that might cause it too. T2 flange surface may not be flat... |
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#13 |
Man w/ CTSV & a Car Seat
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Flex pipe and changing a busted engine mount will help ease the engine torquing sideways. Less torquing, less likelier bolts on the elbow and turbo will rattle off...
PS: This is the first time I've ever seen anybody bitch about the locking tabs doesnt work, you sure you used them properly? |
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#14 | ||
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This is why Zilvia is the best!
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'78 280Z-LSx|76mm turbo|1840cam|8.8 Diff ![]() |
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#16 |
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what kinda gasket are you using?
an OEM Metal one or that cheap crap that come with XS-Power (SSAC) paper Crap?
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#17 |
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I use nothing but Nissan multi-layered metal gasket, the last two i've blown came out looking like shrapnel out of an I.E.D or something lol.
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#18 | |
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I do not have Flex either.. I do not think you need it unless your engine sits Horizontal which most FWD cars.. |
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#19 |
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Thats crazy, those are some tough gaskets, Ive had mine for over 4 years with out a problem. seem like another issue though, hows the engine run?
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#21 | |
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Nord lock looks promising but GD effing expensive.
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#22 |
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I use these.
McMaster-Carr They are Oval lock with conical top. The are deforming and dont vibrate loose. Just like the ones pictured above and the ones on FRsport.com Except these are $5.18 for 50 of them. Good stuff. Not reusable, but you get so many of them it doesnt matter.
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#23 |
Man w/ CTSV & a Car Seat
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Start off by checking your engine mount. Pop the hood, rev the engine and see how much the engine will twist to one side. If it seems alot, time to change the mounts. If the mounts are shot and your Downpipe/exhaust is too wound up, then itll find the weakest point in your exhaust system to give. In this case, its the turbo/manifold bolt. This is the other reason why I recommend a flex pipe too. Aftermarket exhaust and DP doesnt have the same fitment compared to OEM parts. Something is always off, adding a flex pipe in the downpipe gives you a lil bit of, well, flexibility.
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#26 |
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Yeah we did their called "Locking Tabs"
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![]() 1989 Built SR GT2871R -363whp 1998 S14 W/RB25- 250ish (For Now) 1986 SR86 - 200ish 1990 R32 GTR - 320hp Don't Buy Engines from JDM-Online http://zilvia.net/f/businesses/207457-jdm-online.html Don't Buy XS-Power or SSAC Shit |
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#27 |
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I didn't have time to read all of the responses to this thread but I figured I'd throw in my two cents on what has worked for me thus far.
Advanced Auto parts should have some studs and nuts that strip the threads on the studs when you tighten them on. This keeps them from backing off under pressure/load. They are in the nuts/bolts section. Take a stud with you to make sure you are getting the right sizing for your part. They should be like thirteen bucks and should come with enough for you to do this at least twice if need be. I've only had to do this once!!!! |
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#29 |
Nissanaholic!
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To the OP ,if your still having trouble after doing all that you have done , I would suspect your flanges are the problem. Did you do any extended driving on the leaking manifold ??? If so then its suspect ,take it off ,take the studs out ,get a small sanding block or something flat put a peice of 320 grit on it & make a few light passes on the manifold flange. Then look for the high & low spots on the flange,surfacu as needed.
PS- I have seen even so called quality manifolds with jacked up flanges,welding distortion
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#30 | |
Zilvia Addict
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I have these, had to get a ton from McMaster. PM me if you want a set. Once I started using them, no problems. |
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