SR20DET: Turbo flange nuts backing off!!! - Zilvia.net Forums | Nissan 240SX (Silvia) and Z (Fairlady) Car Forum

Dee · 07-25-2010, 10:11 AM

Ok I'm getting so sick of this crap, I'm having this annoying issue with the 4 nuts that holds the turbo to the manifold loosing up and giving me laggy boost and blown gaskets. I've had this turbo off 4 times in the last month to fix this same issue and I've tried new locking tabs, red loc-tite, and copper locknuts.

I know I can't be the only person that has had this problem, what are some suggestions short of just tack welding the sum-bitches to the flange?

Sako · 07-25-2010, 10:23 AM

This happened to almost every single SR that I have owned. I did exactly what you suggested; put spot welds on each of the nuts. If you want to pull it off, you can torque them a little and the spot welds break relatively easily.

*handinpants* · 07-25-2010, 10:23 AM

yeah i have these nissan bolt retainer things, oem nissan parts i will sell you for $5each, they solved my problem, i event bought extras but havent needed them, they , the will hold the bolts in place. are you sure you are tightening them down enough. are you using an xo2 gasket, get an oem gasket, that is the other thing that has saved me

Dee · 07-25-2010, 10:31 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by handinpants

yeah i have these nissan bolt retainer things, oem nissan parts i will sell you for $5each, they solved my problem, i event bought extras but havent needed them, they , the will hold the bolts in place. are you sure you are tightening them down enough. are you using an xo2 gasket, get an oem gasket, that is the other thing that has saved me

Yea I've been through two OEM Metal gaskets and I have 2 sets of those locking tabs, they just don't work for shit. I guess I'm just going to have to spot weld them.

Sileighty_85 · 07-25-2010, 10:34 AM

Ive never had an issue with the locking tabs, but when i lock them down i try to knock them right on the nut and conform the corners of the tabs around the nut.

Basically I make the whole tab touch the nut. I use a 3/8 drive extension and a hammer

kris · 07-25-2010, 10:35 AM

You can also double up on nuts or get aircraft grade nuts.

The aircraft grade ones basically resist loosening due to vibration and heat better because (iirc) they have a slight change in thread pitch at the end. Downside is last time i checked you had to buy these in bulk and it was like 50 bucks for 100 of them or something.

A small tack weld works but makes it a bitch to remove i would avoid this unless you have no other option

GroundPerformance · 07-25-2010, 12:31 PM

I've used this Exhaust locking nuts with no issues so far on most of my builds... One thing to consider also is that your downpipe/exhaust is improperly placed.. I've seen some where a good mount of weight holding the exhaust was on the turbo as suppose to the hangers. Flex pipe helps as well.

[email protected] · 07-25-2010, 12:54 PM

i used small tack welds on mine. they havent backed off

lok · 07-25-2010, 03:14 PM

I used to tack weld mine but recently switched to safety wire.

UNITEDMASTER · 07-25-2010, 04:05 PM

LIke said above make sure your xaust has all the hangers on it. One trick I have done is to use jam nuts(2 per stud) instead of regular nuts.

GroundPerformance · 07-25-2010, 04:06 PM

^^ Nice... Thats putting ElectroMagnetism to work so it doesn't back out. Mad props to you first time seeing this done.

K_style · 07-25-2010, 04:16 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Dee

Ok I'm getting so sick of this crap, I'm having this annoying issue with the 4 nuts that holds the turbo to the manifold loosing up and giving me laggy boost and blown gaskets. I've had this turbo off 4 times in the last month to fix this same issue and I've tried new locking tabs, red loc-tite, and copper locknuts.

I know I can't be the only person that has had this problem, what are some suggestions short of just tack welding the sum-bitches to the flange?

What kind of exhaust manifold do you have ? if you have some cheap ass chinese one.. that might cause it too.

T2 flange surface may not be flat...

*fliprayzin240sx* · 07-25-2010, 04:20 PM

Flex pipe and changing a busted engine mount will help ease the engine torquing sideways. Less torquing, less likelier bolts on the elbow and turbo will rattle off...

PS: This is the first time I've ever seen anybody bitch about the locking tabs doesnt work, you sure you used them properly?

Dee · 07-25-2010, 04:37 PM

This is why Zilvia is the best!

I appreciate the responses in this thread, I've got a lot of option to consider hopefully one will work for me.

Quote:

Originally Posted by K_style

What kind of exhaust manifold do you have ? if you have some cheap ass chinese one.. that might cause it too.

T2 flange surface may not be flat...

I'm actually still using the stock manifold and stock T25 with a Circuit sport elbow, but my downpipe is solid with no flex anywhere and the hanger bushings are rock solid so I guess it could be vibrating them loose.

Quote:

Originally Posted by fliprayzin240sx

Flex pipe and changing a busted engine mount will help ease the engine torquing sideways. Less torquing, less likelier bolts on the elbow and turbo will rattle off...

PS: This is the first time I've ever seen anybody bitch about the locking tabs doesnt work, you sure you used them properly?

Well it seems like a pretty contraption, you torque the nut down and knock the tab down on the flush side of the nut correct? I've done that and alternatively I've also knocked the tabs so that they wrap around the corner of the nut and that didn't work either they still loosened up and blew gasket.

90hatchie · 07-25-2010, 04:44 PM

FRSport Turbo Outlet 8mm (1.25pitch) Locking Head Nut

never had a nut back off after these

Sileighty_85 · 07-25-2010, 04:45 PM

what kinda gasket are you using?
an OEM Metal one or that cheap crap that come with XS-Power (SSAC) paper Crap?

Dee · 07-25-2010, 04:50 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Sileighty_85

what kinda gasket are you using?
an OEM Metal one or that cheap crap that come with XS-Power (SSAC) paper Crap?

I use nothing but Nissan multi-layered metal gasket, the last two i've blown came out looking like shrapnel out of an I.E.D or something lol.

K_style · 07-25-2010, 04:57 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Dee

I'm actually still using the stock manifold and stock T25 with a Circuit sport elbow, but my downpipe is solid with no flex anywhere and the hanger bushings are rock solid so I guess it could be vibrating them loose.

I do not have Flex either.. I do not think you need it unless your engine sits Horizontal which most FWD cars..

Sileighty_85 · 07-25-2010, 04:58 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Dee

I use nothing but Nissan multi-layered metal gasket, the last two i've blown came out looking like shrapnel out of an I.E.D or something lol.

Thats crazy, those are some tough gaskets, Ive had mine for over 4 years with out a problem. seem like another issue though, hows the engine run?

Carbomb · 07-25-2010, 05:00 PM

NORDLOCK.

google it.

Dee · 07-25-2010, 05:22 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Sileighty_85

Thats crazy, those are some tough gaskets, Ive had mine for over 4 years with out a problem. seem like another issue though, hows the engine run?

The engine runs good and health, I don't have any reason to believe there is something wrong with my motor; it's just between my incompetence or just plain ole using the wrong hardware for the job.

Nord lock looks promising but GD effing expensive.

S13NismoStyle · 07-25-2010, 05:52 PM

I use these.

McMaster-Carr

They are Oval lock with conical top. The are deforming and dont vibrate loose. Just like the ones pictured above and the ones on FRsport.com

Except these are $5.18 for 50 of them. Good stuff.

Not reusable, but you get so many of them it doesnt matter.

*fliprayzin240sx* · 07-26-2010, 03:07 AM

Start off by checking your engine mount. Pop the hood, rev the engine and see how much the engine will twist to one side. If it seems alot, time to change the mounts. If the mounts are shot and your Downpipe/exhaust is too wound up, then itll find the weakest point in your exhaust system to give. In this case, its the turbo/manifold bolt. This is the other reason why I recommend a flex pipe too. Aftermarket exhaust and DP doesnt have the same fitment compared to OEM parts. Something is always off, adding a flex pipe in the downpipe gives you a lil bit of, well, flexibility.

niSm095 · 07-26-2010, 04:26 AM

.............

n240sxfnatic · 07-26-2010, 06:36 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by niSm095

im surprised no one's mentioned these...factory hardware-

easy and effective.

Reading > You

Sileighty_85 · 07-26-2010, 10:48 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by niSm095

im surprised no one's mentioned these...factory hardware-

easy and effective.

Yeah we did their called "Locking Tabs"

stockbee · 07-26-2010, 10:53 AM

I didn't have time to read all of the responses to this thread but I figured I'd throw in my two cents on what has worked for me thus far.

Advanced Auto parts should have some studs and nuts that strip the threads on the studs when you tighten them on. This keeps them from backing off under pressure/load.

They are in the nuts/bolts section. Take a stud with you to make sure you are getting the right sizing for your part. They should be like thirteen bucks and should come with enough for you to do this at least twice if need be. I've only had to do this once!!!!

fullthrottle · 07-26-2010, 10:58 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Sileighty_85

Yeah we did their called "Locking Tabs"

I was actually a little mad that after I took the time to read the whole thing that that guy didnt and just went straight to posting that picture. Ill get over it.

UNITEDMASTER · 07-26-2010, 11:27 AM

To the OP ,if your still having trouble after doing all that you have done , I would suspect your flanges are the problem. Did you do any extended driving on the leaking manifold ??? If so then its suspect ,take it off ,take the studs out ,get a small sanding block or something flat put a peice of 320 grit on it & make a few light passes on the manifold flange. Then look for the high & low spots on the flange,surfacu as needed.

PS- I have seen even so called quality manifolds with jacked up flanges,welding distortion

greenman100 · 07-26-2010, 03:30 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by GroundPerformance

I've used this Exhaust locking nuts with no issues so far on most of my builds... One thing to consider also is that your downpipe/exhaust is improperly placed.. I've seen some where a good mount of weight holding the exhaust was on the turbo as suppose to the hangers. Flex pipe helps as well.

I have these, had to get a ton from McMaster. PM me if you want a set. Once I started using them, no problems.

07-25-2010, 10:11 AM	#1
Dee Zilvia Addict Join Date: Sep 2004 Location: Banning, california Cool Points: -100 Φ Age: 38 Posts: 972 Trader Rating: (21) Rides Gallery: Dee Feedback Score: 21 reviews	SR20DET: Turbo flange nuts backing off!!! Ok I'm getting so sick of this crap, I'm having this annoying issue with the 4 nuts that holds the turbo to the manifold loosing up and giving me laggy boost and blown gaskets. I've had this turbo off 4 times in the last month to fix this same issue and I've tried new locking tabs, red loc-tite, and copper locknuts. I know I can't be the only person that has had this problem, what are some suggestions short of just tack welding the sum-bitches to the flange? __________________ '78 280Z-LSx\|76mm turbo\|1840cam\|8.8 Diff

07-25-2010, 10:23 AM	#3
handinpants FreshColdBeer.com Join Date: Feb 2008 Location: California Age: 38 Posts: 2,665 Trader Rating: (48) Rides Gallery: handinpants Feedback Score: 48 reviews	yeah i have these nissan bolt retainer things, oem nissan parts i will sell you for $5each, they solved my problem, i event bought extras but havent needed them, they , the will hold the bolts in place. are you sure you are tightening them down enough. are you using an xo2 gasket, get an oem gasket, that is the other thing that has saved me __________________

07-25-2010, 10:34 AM	#5
Sileighty_85 Post Whore! Join Date: Dec 2006 Location: Misawa, Japan Posts: 6,815 Trader Rating: (8) Feedback Score: 8 reviews	Ive never had an issue with the locking tabs, but when i lock them down i try to knock them right on the nut and conform the corners of the tabs around the nut. Basically I make the whole tab touch the nut. I use a 3/8 drive extension and a hammer __________________ 後輪駆動車１番 1989 Built SR GT2871R -363whp 1998 S14 W/RB25- 250ish (For Now) 1986 SR86 - 200ish 1990 R32 GTR - 320hp Don't Buy Engines from JDM-Online http://zilvia.net/f/businesses/207457-jdm-online.html Don't Buy XS-Power or SSAC Shit

07-25-2010, 12:31 PM	#7
GroundPerformance Zilvia FREAK! Join Date: Oct 2008 Location: Socal Posts: 1,477 Trader Rating: (44) Feedback Score: 44 reviews	I've used this Exhaust locking nuts with no issues so far on most of my builds... One thing to consider also is that your downpipe/exhaust is improperly placed.. I've seen some where a good mount of weight holding the exhaust was on the turbo as suppose to the hangers. Flex pipe helps as well. __________________ SoCal KA24DET/KA24ET Owners << Join the FB Group >>

07-25-2010, 04:05 PM	#10
UNITEDMASTER Nissanaholic! Join Date: Apr 2006 Location: Anaheim Posts: 1,626 Trader Rating: (10) Feedback Score: 10 reviews	LIke said above make sure your xaust has all the hangers on it. One trick I have done is to use jam nuts(2 per stud) instead of regular nuts. __________________ MR JACKSON.

07-25-2010, 10:23 AM	#2
Sako Leaky Injector Join Date: Apr 2008 Location: Tarzana, CA Age: 34 Posts: 138 Trader Rating: (30) Feedback Score: 30 reviews	This happened to almost every single SR that I have owned. I did exactly what you suggested; put spot welds on each of the nuts. If you want to pull it off, you can torque them a little and the spot welds break relatively easily.

07-25-2010, 10:35 AM	#6
kris Zilvia Member Join Date: Oct 2003 Location: South Dakota Age: 42 Posts: 241 Trader Rating: (1) Feedback Score: 1 reviews	You can also double up on nuts or get aircraft grade nuts. The aircraft grade ones basically resist loosening due to vibration and heat better because (iirc) they have a slight change in thread pitch at the end. Downside is last time i checked you had to buy these in bulk and it was like 50 bucks for 100 of them or something. A small tack weld works but makes it a bitch to remove i would avoid this unless you have no other option

07-25-2010, 12:54 PM	#8
[email protected] Nissanaholic! Join Date: Jul 2008 Location: Zacatecas, Mx; Paramount, Ca Age: 31 Posts: 1,626 Trader Rating: (32) Feedback Score: 32 reviews	i used small tack welds on mine. they havent backed off

07-25-2010, 03:14 PM	#9
lok Zilvia Addict Join Date: Jul 2003 Location: Oklahoma Posts: 790 Trader Rating: (10) Feedback Score: 10 reviews	I used to tack weld mine but recently switched to safety wire.

07-25-2010, 04:06 PM	#11
GroundPerformance Zilvia FREAK! Join Date: Oct 2008 Location: Socal Posts: 1,477 Trader Rating: (44) Feedback Score: 44 reviews	^^ Nice... Thats putting ElectroMagnetism to work so it doesn't back out. Mad props to you first time seeing this done. __________________ SoCal KA24DET/KA24ET Owners << Join the FB Group >>

07-25-2010, 04:20 PM	#13
fliprayzin240sx Man w/ CTSV & a Car Seat Join Date: Aug 2002 Location: Tampa Posts: 17,998 Trader Rating: (19) Rides Gallery: fliprayzin240sx Feedback Score: 19 reviews	Flex pipe and changing a busted engine mount will help ease the engine torquing sideways. Less torquing, less likelier bolts on the elbow and turbo will rattle off... PS: This is the first time I've ever seen anybody bitch about the locking tabs doesnt work, you sure you used them properly? __________________ If you think Zilvia has too many assholes... CLICK HERE!!!

07-25-2010, 04:44 PM	#15
90hatchie Banned from the Marketplace Join Date: Dec 2006 Location: yorktown hts ny Age: 32 Posts: 2,984 Trader Rating: (15) Feedback Score: 15 reviews	FRSport Turbo Outlet 8mm (1.25pitch) Locking Head Nut never had a nut back off after these

07-25-2010, 04:45 PM	#16
Sileighty_85 Post Whore! Join Date: Dec 2006 Location: Misawa, Japan Posts: 6,815 Trader Rating: (8) Feedback Score: 8 reviews	what kinda gasket are you using? an OEM Metal one or that cheap crap that come with XS-Power (SSAC) paper Crap? __________________ 後輪駆動車１番 1989 Built SR GT2871R -363whp 1998 S14 W/RB25- 250ish (For Now) 1986 SR86 - 200ish 1990 R32 GTR - 320hp Don't Buy Engines from JDM-Online http://zilvia.net/f/businesses/207457-jdm-online.html Don't Buy XS-Power or SSAC Shit

07-25-2010, 05:00 PM	#20
Carbomb Zilvia Junkie Join Date: Apr 2009 Location: USA Age: 33 Posts: 318 Trader Rating: (6) Feedback Score: 6 reviews	NORDLOCK. google it.

07-25-2010, 05:52 PM	#22
S13NismoStyle Zilvia Member Join Date: Sep 2005 Location: greenville, sc Posts: 186 Trader Rating: (7) Feedback Score: 7 reviews	I use these. McMaster-Carr They are Oval lock with conical top. The are deforming and dont vibrate loose. Just like the ones pictured above and the ones on FRsport.com Except these are $5.18 for 50 of them. Good stuff. Not reusable, but you get so many of them it doesnt matter. __________________

07-26-2010, 03:07 AM	#23
fliprayzin240sx Man w/ CTSV & a Car Seat Join Date: Aug 2002 Location: Tampa Posts: 17,998 Trader Rating: (19) Rides Gallery: fliprayzin240sx Feedback Score: 19 reviews	Start off by checking your engine mount. Pop the hood, rev the engine and see how much the engine will twist to one side. If it seems alot, time to change the mounts. If the mounts are shot and your Downpipe/exhaust is too wound up, then itll find the weakest point in your exhaust system to give. In this case, its the turbo/manifold bolt. This is the other reason why I recommend a flex pipe too. Aftermarket exhaust and DP doesnt have the same fitment compared to OEM parts. Something is always off, adding a flex pipe in the downpipe gives you a lil bit of, well, flexibility. __________________ If you think Zilvia has too many assholes... CLICK HERE!!!

07-26-2010, 04:26 AM	#24
niSm095 Zilvia FREAK! Join Date: Mar 2003 Location: Western PA Age: 36 Posts: 1,200 Trader Rating: (14) Feedback Score: 14 reviews	............. Last edited by niSm095; 07-26-2010 at 09:28 PM..

07-26-2010, 10:53 AM	#27
stockbee Zilvia Member Join Date: Sep 2008 Location: Bowling Green, Ky Age: 34 Posts: 266 Trader Rating: (2) Feedback Score: 2 reviews	I didn't have time to read all of the responses to this thread but I figured I'd throw in my two cents on what has worked for me thus far. Advanced Auto parts should have some studs and nuts that strip the threads on the studs when you tighten them on. This keeps them from backing off under pressure/load. They are in the nuts/bolts section. Take a stud with you to make sure you are getting the right sizing for your part. They should be like thirteen bucks and should come with enough for you to do this at least twice if need be. I've only had to do this once!!!!

07-26-2010, 11:27 AM	#29
UNITEDMASTER Nissanaholic! Join Date: Apr 2006 Location: Anaheim Posts: 1,626 Trader Rating: (10) Feedback Score: 10 reviews	To the OP ,if your still having trouble after doing all that you have done , I would suspect your flanges are the problem. Did you do any extended driving on the leaking manifold ??? If so then its suspect ,take it off ,take the studs out ,get a small sanding block or something flat put a peice of 320 grit on it & make a few light passes on the manifold flange. Then look for the high & low spots on the flange,surfacu as needed. PS- I have seen even so called quality manifolds with jacked up flanges,welding distortion __________________ MR JACKSON.

Thread Tools
Show Printable Version Email this Page
Display Modes
Linear Mode Switch to Hybrid Mode Switch to Threaded Mode