shephurd

I have +25mm FLCAs for my S13.

I am running stock knuckles.

What inner/outer Tie rod combo would you recommend?

ka-titties

Read the first page.

derass

Whatever is S13 +25mm.

It gets a bit more tricky when the steering arm is shortened, or RC corrected via the knuckle, or the steering rack moved forward (or offset spacers). But you don't seem to have any of that going on.

DriftingBrandon

Pmed. Message length.

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TheRealSy90

Like we said on Facebook, your tie rods are over centering. You need to move the rack forward.


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speedfiend

Hey guys I'm currently getting my suspension installed on my s14. I have run into some issues and was looking for some insight on how to correct these issues.

First off this is an s14 with 326power coilovers, peak ruca's, stance traction arms, p2m bent toe arms, Driftworks Mac's, and era1 drop knuckles.

First off when installing the coilovers the bottom mount on the knuckle is at a pretty drastic downward angle. This put the coilovers is a bind between the bottom mount and the upper mount on the chassis.
Here you can see what I'm talking about.



Second issue I've run into is the mount for the toe-arm is lined up directly with the coilovers body. Therefore, making it basically impossible to get a nut on the toe-arm bolt. As can be seen here.



Third issue as can be seen in the above image also, is how close the coilovers body is to the actual toe-arm mount on the knuckle. This is can also be referenced here.



None of the arms have been adjusted so I do understand these issues could slightly alter but for the most part I don't see where a proper alignment is going to rectify these issues. I also, understand that all these issues could be due to the knockoff era1 knuckles solely. Can anyone offer up some suggestions to make things work or am I up a creek with these knuckles and just need to purchase a new set of name brand knuckles? Any help with this is much appreciated as I'm trying to get the car back on the ground by Thanksgiving.
Cameron

Edit: Sorry for the huge pics bit first time utilizing imgur photo hosting. Mods can you please resize the images?

Standard

Huge pictures!! The coilover mount doesn't look like an issue to me, maybe someone else can chime in on that. As far as the toe arm goes, my best guess is your traction arm is adjusted to short and shifting everything forward. Remove the coilover, bolt on the toe arm, extend your traction arm to factory length and reinstall coilover. See what happens, good luck!

speedfiend

Thanx for the reply. Traction arm is actually at factory length in those pix.

Also, the only way I was able to actually get the coilover installed due the drastic angle, was to disconnect the ruca, traction arm, and toe-arm, then lean the entire knuckle assembly out away from the car in order to get the bottom mount up enough for the coilover to slide on. Then I had to jack the whole assembly up while holding a ton of outward pressure on the coilover to get it to line u with the upper holes at which it still was in a bind and drug the threads against the holes in the chassis!
Cameron

Standard

I had a similar issue and was sure I had the traction arms at factory length, however adjusting them rectified my problem, just saying, might be worth looking into. Good luck man, hope you get it figured out, seems like there's always issues when mixing different brand parts in the rear on aftermarket knuckles.

EDIT: and just to clarify, I mean stock arm length, not how the aftermarket arms come set from the manufacturer

speedfiend

I appreciate the input. Ill try adjusting them some more and see if that moves things around a bit. Yea I am not a fan of knockoff stuff and was concerned from the get go with these Era1 knuckles especially since they are no longer around lol. If I can't get things to workout then Ill pick up a set of the driftworks version 2 knuckles. Any other ideas are welcomed guys.
Cameron

PoorMans180SX

Pretty sure it's a coilover issue? Most S14 coils that I've seen have a lower mount like this:

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speedfiend

Thanx for the input but I don't think that is the issue. My Kei-Office Type XR's are designed the exact same way as my 326power Coilovers. I ran the kei office coils for many years without an issue, although that was with stock knuckles, lca and traction rods but the same rucas as I have now.
Cameron

Mitsubayati

Can someone please help me find out where I can get a "double adjuster"like the one below? I've been searching for a bit and it seems strange that these aren't so easy to find considering so many suspension components use them for adjusting. I want to upgrade a set of RUCAs I have to better rod ends but they are using a thread type which is hard to find. Ideally I need the double adjuster to have an internal thread of m16x2 and external thread of m20x2.

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PoorMans180SX

Hey guys! I've eliminated all of the photobucket links (didn't realize there were any left until a few days ago) on the first page, and have done a little updating!

Good luck! I've never been able to find any.

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jaysgottaredtop

I keep seeing this shared on FB and I cannot for the life of me figure out why these would be beneficial on an S-chassis.

Doesn’t fix overcentering. The outer joint relative to the knuckle and the inner joint relative to the rack haven’t changed. Now there’s just a squiggly line in between, instead of a straight one.

Doesn’t help steering angle. The tie rod’s balljoint cup already stops against the FLCA, so the offset doesn’t gain you any extra travel.

Anyone know what these are for? Or is this just a marketing gimmick, similar to the stepped FLCAs that people were claiming as roll center correcting?

IMG_9765.JPG

Edit - spelling

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ka-titties

A replacement for a hard stop? I dont know, like you said, I dont see a benefit.

mr.nismo.

Looks like an attempt for over centering correction (think of offset rack spacers).

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drifter5

Going to get my S14 rack rebuild so I might as well swap out the inner and outer tie rods. I want to run SPL/Voodoo13 Outer but they recommend Z33 inner for unmodified knuckles. However, Tein no longer manufactures them.

I am plan on keeping the knuckles unmodified for a while, so Tein S14 inner is not an option.

So has anyone used Moog Z33 inner with SPL/Voodoo13 Outer?

I would reach out to them directly but they are closed and I would like to take advantage of the black friday deal that FRSport is currently running. Just an FYI, this is a weekend/drift project.

Perfect Balance

Based on how the google translate worded it, it didn't say it actually prevented over centering, and of course it wouldn't since the pivot point doesn't actually change, but it did say "assists with symptoms of over centering". I was thinking maybe since the tie rod is positioned outwards of the knuckle when it over centers, maybe it would help pull it back into position when you steer back, but even then the force is still being transferred through the pivot points so not sure if that works. They claim it helps though. Maybe someone will buy them and do a proper test.

McRussellPants

If you had a really tight notched pocket for clearance at max angle on a factory lower control arm you could hit the tie rod buckle in bending which could put a decent bending load on the inner tie rod. instead of with that you would just hit the uniball cup / ball joint and keep the inner only the slight bending load from being offset a little.

seems really niche so imagine they just don't get how it works and they think its changing the tie rod angle.

da_crew10

I ran this setup. Works perfect with unmodified knuckles, extended flca or factory flca.

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TheRealSy90

That offset outer tie rod could also let the trailing wheel turn farther. Mine maxes out when the tie rod hits the lower ball joint at full trailing. Offset and it would go further.


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Tearlessj

What rack boots are you guys using? My boot is a little too short after installing my tie rod spacer.

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derass

push the outer part of the boot in as far as you can. my stock boots worked with big-ass offset rack spacers which added 42mm to each side. the boots were stretched to their limits, but they worked.

D-Clem

It absolutely does. Because it pulls the assembly in, making you have to adjust toe back out. Once you adjust your toe back out, you will then have more room at the same angle. It doesn’t change it if it were just sitting on the ground together obviously but relative to being on a car, once toe was set back you will gain clearance. I have the full kit as well, and spent hours dialing everything in perfectly to where I wanted it. Really really nice stuff

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D-Clem

Yes, pivot point to tension rod section never changes, but the wheel will change as toe will then be adjusted out to compensate for pulling it inwards. That’s what changes, just the tire pivot starting point relative to the tension rod section. Picture the wheel stationary on the vehicle pointed dead ahead. Now twist the whole control arm over in your mind as if adjusting over those spacers. I hope you see what I’m saying.

To the guy with the problems, you need to spend some time with a caster gauge or just measuring your front to back tire to fender gap and then play with the spacers, the length and toe settings as you do it. Continuously adjust toe back to zero and check angle and clearance and you will find the happy point. Takes some trial and error but totally worth it once you do.

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TheRealSy90

I see what you mean now. And then the heim joint offset spacers get installed after the heim length is set.


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D-Clem

Well yes and know. Ideally you want to remove them all, put just the bolt in, adjust it until you get it where you want it, and then put them in, however I found that even after doing that, I still found myself swapping spacers over for whatever reason. Once they’re installed though, you can still fine tune the tension rod length a bit. I don’t remember off hand but I want to say it was about 10mm or so either direction when spacers are in. Kinda cool. I love the setup overall, it’s pretty amazing on a few different levels. Highly recommended

e30gangsta

Alright guys I'm in the process of redoing my entire suspension setup. I already have, coils, all adjustable arms, sub frame bushings, sways and tie rods. My next purchase is going to be flca's and rlca's. My car has stock front guards with the fender liners still in place. (1993 silvia k's) I was wondering if any of you guys have a recommendation on what flca to run that will increase angle, but will not add track width or too much negative camber. I had the gk front rc bolt on setup and I didn't like it because it pushed the front wheel out about 25mm which require me to run like -7 just to drive around lol.

I'm Honestly just curious as to what you guys recommend for flca's with stock guards. I was the t3 ones that are adjustable from 0 to +25, but I am open to hearing other options.

I planned to run stock rear control arms, with gk teck rear knuckles, but if you guys have other rear lower control arm recommendations im open to hearing them.


Thanks for your help.

PoorMans180SX

You can run any stock length control arm then. GKtech, PSM, or whatever. GKtech has the most clearance, but you'll run into your sway bar. Not that you'll have to worry about trailing wheel clearance if you're on stock knuckles.

Stock rear LCA's are fine depending on how hard you drive the car/how much traction and power it has.

With GKtech rear knuckles, you should modify your RLCA front pickup, putting it where the S14's is. I'm going to assume your car is not very low because you have fender liners, and your anti-squat will be through the roof on an S13 that's not slammed.

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