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Tech Talk Technical Discussion About The Nissan 240SX and Nissan Z Cars |
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10-27-2016, 06:29 PM | #7234 | |
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AV FABRICATION Built thread sr20vet s14 http://zilvia.net/f/showthread.php?t=535574 |
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10-28-2016, 04:18 AM | #7236 |
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i was curious about this as well. I'm assuming it would be added on the driverside and couldn't be cut "free-handed"; maybe a jig settup?
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10-28-2016, 06:57 AM | #7237 |
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You shouldn't have to cut an extra tooth into the rack, there is more then enough potential with just adding rack spacers, tie rod combo, and knuckle setup. I have plenty of angle, a friend is running modded DLG knuckles, custom 1 piece lca's, 2 DLG rack spacers, and still doesn't run out of rack travel.
His car
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10-28-2016, 07:16 AM | #7238 |
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^wow, that. A lot of angle! And the rack is still able to go further if there were no obstructions?
..so just a hypothetical question for s chassis, or another chassis that would benefit from having an extra tooth or two cut into the rack, how would one go about doing this? Would it really need to be machined or could it be done by a skilled craftsman (or craftswoman) with an angle grinder/dremel and steady hand/jig setup?
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10-28-2016, 02:06 PM | #7239 |
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I don't see why it couldn't be done if you measured properly and were careful/skilled. It's really not necessary with knuckles though.
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10-28-2016, 03:18 PM | #7240 |
Leaky Injector
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If you really wanted the extra rack travel, try starting with an s15 rack instead. They have more travel by a few mm if you were that desperate. Cutting an extra tooth just seems destined for failure Imo.
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10-31-2016, 08:25 PM | #7241 | |
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But its good to know s15 have abit more travel
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AV FABRICATION Built thread sr20vet s14 http://zilvia.net/f/showthread.php?t=535574 |
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10-31-2016, 08:37 PM | #7242 |
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I mean with a passenger rack extension and driver side tie rod washer/spacer then you'll already have a ton more travel than a 15 rack and shouldn't have any need for more.
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11-01-2016, 01:58 AM | #7243 | |
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Quote:
I know some people who were looking into it and I think s15 and R34 have the same travel and it's the furthest, s13 and r32 is next best, and r33 I remember being the worst. No idea where S14 sits, but I'd imagine it's got the same internals as an r33? It's all only mm differences though. But yeah, like sy90 said, if you fit a spacer, it'll be further, and more than necessary. Sent from my E6653 using Tapatalk
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11-01-2016, 03:36 PM | #7245 |
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Also there's no point in running a rack "extension" spacer on the driver side, the rack itself doesn't travel far enough to use it all up. The regular washer style is as far as the rack will go in that direction and it runs out of teeth. The passenger side travels inside the rack further and thus the rack extension can be used to its fullest potential. Running it on the driver side is just unnecessary.
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11-02-2016, 01:55 PM | #7246 |
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Report on the GK Tech RC kit:
I didn't measure but if felt like I had an extra ~10 degrees of steering angle. Felt great, had to cut a bit of the fender and hammer the chassis in a few inches. Problem could've been solved with more caster adjustment but my OEM S14 FLCA bushing was already maxed out, so basically my TC rods weren't doing much in caster adjustment . Adjustable FLCA is next! |
11-03-2016, 05:01 PM | #7250 |
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I've always read that traction arm length in the rear should be set to stock, which is 8.25".
I just put Parts Shop Max rear drop knuckles on my car, and with 0* camber and 0* toe, with a fairly aggressively low ride height, the wheel is now shoved way forward in the well. I can't find anything about traction arm length recommendations with PSM's knuckle, I know GK Tech has recommendations for theirs but that's a completely different knuckle. Any suggestions? |
11-03-2016, 06:15 PM | #7252 |
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8.5" on a lowered car gives a better toe curve.
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11-04-2016, 12:11 AM | #7253 |
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There's a article by Mike Kohima I believe its on MotoIQ, that has a section regarding S-Chassis traction rod length. It can make a huge difference in forward bite on throttle.
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11-06-2016, 02:22 PM | #7254 | |
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Decreasing length - more anti-squat and bumpsteer Increasing length - less anti-squat, less bumpsteer Optimal ratio appears to be 1:1 with extending camber arm for adjusting camber angle, i.e adding 20mm to camber arm vs oem length means same amount should be added to traction arm.
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11-07-2016, 06:57 PM | #7256 | |
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AV FABRICATION Built thread sr20vet s14 http://zilvia.net/f/showthread.php?t=535574 |
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11-09-2016, 10:05 AM | #7257 |
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It depends on the traction you have available, low traction scenarios would require less anti-squat. As far as I know there is no perfect setup, just good compromises. You surely do not want pro-squat as that will just compress the suspension and reduce load on the tyres. Anti-squat increases vertical load on the tyres and hence provide more traction. There is a of course too much of it (standard rideheight S13).
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12-29-2016, 09:15 AM | #7258 |
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Quick question: Rear drop knuckles. How beneficial? Car already has subframe risers, but is tucking tire on 18's. Worth while mod for drivability/handling? Or waste of $400?
Also, i read that PBM has quality issues, and seems Era1 doesn't make them anymore? Gktech? |
12-29-2016, 06:40 PM | #7259 |
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GkTech looks great for the adjusted camber/toe gain on throttle. By worthwhile, it depends on what you're wanting out of them. If you don't care about the performance aspect then there's no reason I guess.
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01-07-2017, 01:09 PM | #7260 |
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I wonder how the LCA works here with no tension rod? (Ventura Racing S14)
edit: nvm, I can see a custom knuckle in there (tie rod pickup on the front side?). I'll be the subframe and LCA are custom too. |
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anti-squat, best thread ever, kpi, roll center, steering angle, suspension |
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