Nemui

Huge thanks to everyone that contributes to this thread since I used it to help with my swap. It currently runs and drives but I'm sorting out AC since I want to be able to bring my family with me in the summer especially since I live in Florida. Yes, that is my fuse box located by the right headlight. It will be tucked once I have a chance. Right now I just want to enjoy driving the car.



Also picture of the car for reference.



Any questions feel free to ask and I'll try my best to help answer. Oh and I forgot to add, this car is a 2jz vvti on stock twins in TTC and all sequential stuff has been removed and welded shut or plugged. Transmission is a CD009 out of an '06 350z so it has an external slave cylinder. Using Collins adapter plate and mounts.

corkscrew

Ayyyy what’s up man I’m good friends with Jonathen. I see PJ’s car in that pic. Car looks great man

Nemui

Haha, what's up. I'm good friends with PJ and Jonathen as well. My name is also Jonathan. Do I happen to know you? You can PM me on here or DM me on instagram @jslay_

EJ8 944

Been reading in here for a while. I currently have an SR swapped S14, and was about to start building an RB26 I have to swap in, but now I'm debating on liquidating everything so I can go with a 2JZ/CD009 setup

Few questions for you fine folks:
1. I would like to go single right off the bat - what is the heater line clearance with the downpipe there? On paper this swap makes way more sense than the RB because the intake and exhaust sides are flipped, no steering shaft issues either. Seems like the heater hoses are the only possible issue, and I can't find many pictures detailing the clearance here (lot of dead photobucket links)

2. Exhaust - is everyone using the CX exhaust, or some hybrid version of it? Or what are you guys doing to get the exhaust down the driver side of the car. I've seen a few setups where the exhaust is ran down the passenger side, and crosses over before the diff, but is there any piece that allows you to run an intact S chassis exhaust with a JZ?

3. Where is the place to buy JZ engines from? Supra store?

4a. With the CD009 trans and collins adapter, is there ANY shifter that will exit through the factory shifter location? The closest I've been able to find is the serial 9 shifter, and it looks like it's still too long (have only seen pictures with the tunnel cut to fit this)

4b. What transmissions DO work with the stock shifter location? This is going to be a street car and I'm trying to avoid cutting holes, boxing in the tunnel, finding a new rubber boot that will work, etc.

I've tried searching to find all the above - but couldn't find everything I was looking for - if this has all been asked a dozen times before, I apologize.

t66-240

1. I haven't run heater lines yet, but I don't see any issue.

2. I made a custom exhaust 3.5" that mimics the path of the CX racing. The issues with using the factory exhaust is that there is a pretty sharp turn if you want to make it bolt on. You can always cut the existing exhaust in front of the sub frame for a better angle.

3. Supra Store is a good option, but I'd find a local importer which will save you $$.

4a. Yes the CBF mid-mount will require 0 cutting with a 2jz/cd009 combo. Having said that you can use any of the rear mounts then cover up the hole. You only need about a 2" hole there the shifter pokes through.

4b. sorry no idea.

di-devol

1. They fit fine

2. I went in and had an exhaust made.

3. Try to find a local importer, I used a local one here in Lynwood wa.

4a. Unsure, with the collins kit(their shifter too) I had to cut a lot.

4b. r154, brand new form driftmotion. I still might switch to that. CD hangs lower than the frame rails.

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slideways2004

Is anyone running the driftmotion dbw delete on the 2jzgte vvti throttle body??

How does it feel with a throttle cable? I read somewhere it has a stiff feeling to it.

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Nemui

1. I run the twins on my setup and it clears heater hoses fine so a single will not be a problem.
2. I used cx racing downpipe + midpipe. Bought a blast pipe and had my fab guy weld the end to the midpipe.
3. I used JDM engine corp in Texas and had it shipped to my home in Florida. If you have somewhere local that would be the way to go but my local shop had bad reviews so I chose to avoid them. Myself and another friend ordered 2jzgte vvtis from them and had no issues.
4a. I have the serial nine shifter and while the shifter location is close to stock because of the shifter top plate coming through the transmission tunnel, you have to cut for it to fit.
4b. So I have no experience with other transmissions other then a cd009 but my friend has an ar5 and same as the r154 it can be made to come through the stock shifter hole without cutting.

jackal264

i've used an r154 and a cd009. the shift feel of an r154 is horrendous. its clunky and the throws are very long. imo it's worth the hassle of making a cd009 work. i used the collins kit with the serial 9 shifter. just like mentioned before i had to cut about 2" of the back of the shifter hole but the shifter itself comes up right where it's supposed to be.

my car is not slammed. the transmission does hang bellow the frame rails. if i were to do things all over again right now i would still pick the cd009 but i would do the serial 9 pro bell housing which would make things a lot easier to fit in the trans tunnel.

bmaddock

I run a late model R154 with factory extension and it lines up with the shifter hole with minimal modifications required. R154 is notchy but people act over exaggerate how "bad" it is.

Let the deals dictate which way you go. Almost always cd009 will be more expensive initially but could pay off in the long run if you end up destroying a transmission.

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TheRealSy90

Slightly off topic but the weirdest thing is, on my VQ35HR swapped s13, the transmission BARELY hangs below the frame rails. When I had the SR+CD009 (mazworx) the trans hung down significantly more. No clue why. Quite possible that my VQ swap is sitting up higher in the tunnel.

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duncan351

Okay, there has been ALOT of misleading info on getting the 3.13 gear ratio. I was gonna build one but found one already do so I bought it but I wanted to share the real recipe.
You have to buy two differentials and make one for a LSD 3.13 rear end which are buy a 2005 Pathfinder and 350Z. You have to remove the ring and pinion from pathfinder and install it on the 350Z LSD and reinstall it in the 350Z pumpkin. This is the only way it will work.
Next issue. I DO NOT see how on earth Maverick says his centric bushings make the 350z diff bolt right in to the S chassis subframe. Technically he would be right but this is very deceiving . The pitch of the differential is pointing down changing the angle of the drive shaft to tranny orientation which concerns me of how much the U-joints are being stressed. I personally do not feel comfortable on a high hp car with this setup. The only solution is to modify the subframe to get the front of the diff back in factory postion. I’m very surprised I haven’t read anywhere that people aren’t calling out Maverick for this. I read on face book people ditching their sway bar in the rear to run the Z diff. Do you realize how many degrees that diff is out of spec? I don’t know exact numbers but it’s a lot.
Comments please….. Am I missing something???

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842whp KA-T
"Anyone can make power but how long can you make it last?"

t66-240

**Deleted**

duncan351

Yes, Mavrick. Gonna try to edit original post now. I can't speak for Collins because I don't know.

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842whp KA-T
"Anyone can make power but how long can you make it last?"

bpat

Hey guys, maybe someone on here could have some ideas about whats going on with my car. This is a fresh build.

So I had the car tuned to 90% but couldn't completely finish because most of the coils were cracked. Car started and idled pretty smooth, wasn't having many issues. Got the car back and had some fuel in the oil. Replaced the plugs/coils and flushed out the oil. Since then, the car has been sitting and mostly started up to move around the shop. When the car is started, the idle shoots way up to around ~3k and slowly makes its way down. Also, has new issues with drivability on decel the fuel abruptly cuts off.

So something seems off in my ignition and possibly these issues could be resolved when tuning gets finished up. But it was running much smoother when I first got it back from the tuner, so I was wondering if you guys had any ideas? Ordering a oem ignitor to replace the old one that's been sitting for who knows how long.

Currently car is powered by an AEM V1, and I was looking into the HKS DLI as the majority of people running the V1 seem to have it. Anyone have input on this?

Possibly a fuel issue as well?

BlackZenkiS14

Well, figured I'd post this up cause I was happy with it. Went to the drag strip for the first time in years...finally got my 11sec pass!

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-Kyle

supercompact

Congrats! That's awesome man! What are the details on the car?

BlackZenkiS14

Neutral car setup (road race/drift/fun car). 1JZ w/ HE351CW. 440cc injectors on SAFC2.

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-Kyle

StarFireKouki97

If anyone interested I got a Non VVTI 2jzgte harness plug and play straight to a s14 chassis

Lazyvert93

Did that mk3 cable work for you ?

ph1tnessjunk1e

Anyone else screw up the VVTI cam gear bolt? Google hasn't turned anything up for this specific bolt. I'm not entirely sure if a bolt extractor will work.

I'm hoping to get your guys' thoughts on getting this out.


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Mister.E

This is a fairly old discussion and if you read through, it appears as though ARP has corrected the issue. I did want to post it, however, for anyone that may have put studs in some time in the past and wasn’t aware.

https://www.supraforums.com/forum/sh...Washer-debate&

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BiG MiKE86

Parting out my 2jz S13 build folks! havent setup a F/S thread yet but my build thread has all the details if anyone wants to take a look lmk!

http://zilvia.net/f/showthread.php?t=488537

Thanks

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TJ_240

Rolling in Memphis



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corkscrew

Awesome setup dude! More details please

corkscrew

Anyone in here using the boost lab oil line kit? The drain seems very long on mine

ph1tnessjunk1e

The upper oil pan of my 2JZ has what looks to be rust on the block mating surface. I've tried searching how to fix it or what exactly this is but no luck. I'm hesitant to use this pan, but I'm no expert so I'm unsure if this is ok to use.

Is this ok to use, is there a fix, or do I need to scrap?




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corkscrew

Can you not just take a cookie or wire wheel and remove the rust?

ph1tnessjunk1e

I haven't yet, just wasn't sure if there are long term issues to be aware of


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BiG MiKE86

Anyone know whats the most aggressive camshaft I can run with just the basic BC titanium springs/retainers? Non-VVTI 2JZ

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