Flicktitty

I started putting this together to help some people, now i figure i will release it to EVERYONE. i know it's not complete, but there is a lot of good information here. and i know there is other ways to do this swap, but this is what worked for me. I would appreciate ANY and ALL feedback on this. Also to you fellow JZ swappers if you have any helpful hints/tips/tricks or other ideas please post them and i can incorporate them into the original post.



Also – If you feel I should add more information to this please feel free to PM me on here, or Email me at [email protected] Thanks – Nick
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So i decided i would put this together to help current and future 2JZGTE swapping 240sx people out at least a little bit. There already is a lot of information on doing this swap, but it is spread all across the Internet, so i thought i would put together a thread where most if not all the information is here at your finger tips. Here you will find parts, pictures and random information that i think could be helpful.


Section 1: Getting to know the 2JZ-GTE

First, i urge you to take a look at the Toyota JZ Engine Wikipedia page to familiarize yourself with the 2JZ-GTE. View the wikipedia page here: Toyota JZ engine - Wikipedia, the free encyclopedia

Now the question is what 2JZ-GTE should i put in my car you ask? Well the choice for 95% of us is the JDM 2JZ-GTE, as it is much more accessible and cheaper than finding a 2JZ out of a crashed MKIV Toyota Supra. What is the difference you ask? well look no further.

JDM Vs USDM 2JZGTE[/FONT][/COLOR]
- Different turbochargers [/FONT][/COLOR]
(stainless steel for USDM models CT12A, ceramic for JDM models CT20)
- Camshafts
- Larger injectors (550 cc/min slow impedance, requires resistor pack for USDM model, 440 cc/min high impedance for JDM models )
- The USDM 2JZ has a EGR where as the JDM one does not. (JDM head can be drilled out and is already tapped for bolts!)
- The USDM 2JZ runs off afm/maf + map, where as the JDM one is map based, no afm
- The USDM Water pump with back half need to replace the JDM water pump and housing.

Section 2: What you are going to need
You will need alot of things to get a 2JZGTE in and running in a 240sx, below you will find a complete list of what you will need to get your car on the road.

- 2JZGTE pullout (Motor/trans/wiring/accessories) *CheckSection 3 for more information*

- Custom engine swap kit mounts. *Check Section 4 for swap kit information*

- Wiring kit (weather you pay for it or do it on your own) *Check Section 5 for more information*

- OEM Toyota supra parts, included is a water pump (if you are using a JDM 2JZ as the water pump is different and has extra port for coolant that will not work.), thermostat, it would be a good time to change the timing belt and the serpentine belt, if you have a few extra bucks not a bad idea to get a new oil pump. Wouldn’t be a bad idea to replace the belt tensioners either (timing and serpentine)

JDM Water pump that won't work:


USDM Waterpump that WILL work:

*As you can see the JDM water pump has a hydro setup that will not work with your typical setup*

- Intercooler. You could use a factory side mount intercooler or upgrade to a front mount If you're planning on making much over 350whp go with a Front mount intercooler. I used a Godspeed front mount intercooler fitted for a Nissan 240sx S13. and then bought CXRacing intercooler piping for a JZA80 (MKIV) Supra and make it work, and it works very well for both single turbo and twin turbo applications. CX Racing now offers various intercooler setups for both Single and stock twin turbo 2JZ swapped S-Chassis. So that is a good option to look into.

]- Downpipe. This depends greatly on what you do. if you go with a single turbo, most off the shelf down pipes will work (I used the CXRacing 3” V-band downpipe off ebay).This worked pretty well with my Treadstone cast manifold, it may not work for your exhaust manifold setup. CX Racing has now offered Various 2JZ swapped S-Chassis turbo kits and downpipe / exhaust manifold setups so that can be used as well, Other wise you'll be forced to go with a custom setup.
(Pic of said CXRacing downpipe with a Treadstone cast manifold)



If you are using the JDM factory twin turbos you will need to source a jdm downpipe which used to be hard to find, but you can find them on ebay now. Just search “JZA80 front pipe, 1st pipe or decat. and it will show up. here is a picture of what you will need.
(Pic of said jdm downpipe)

If you are using the USDM Twin turbos you can use pretty much any off the shelf JZA80 (MKIV) downpipe. i used the Tanabe with great fitment.The supraforums guy's all say the best off the shelf downpipe for a factory USDM twinturbo's is the RMM downpipe, which has since been discontinued so you will have to find one used.
(Pick of said RMM downpipe)

I Suggest getting some heat wrap and wrap your down pipe for the added piece of mind do to the extreme under hood temps the 2JZ creates in a 240sx Or you could have them heatcoated depending on your budget.

- Exhaust. This is where you can have some fun, you can use ANY off the shelf Nissan S-chassis exhaust you so choose to use, but you will need to either take a trip to an exhaust shop, or make your own cross over pipe from the downpipe to the factory cat-back exhaust. CX Racing has since come out yet again with a JZ S-Chassis swap downpipe/midpipe/exhaust setup. So for those of you who are relying on the off the shelf parts, That will most likely be your best bet.

- Fuel pump. the “easiest” option for most people is to go with a single Walbro 255 fuel pumps, you can find them all day long well under $100. You could go with a more custom setup using a factory Toyota supra twin turbo Denso pump or a Bosch pump. here is some good information on fuel pumps. You could even go with a large external or a custom internal setup, all depends on your needs and your budget.
http://www.ka-t.org/forums/viewtopic.php?t=51201

- Radiator. I have seen some pictures of people using the factory 240sx radiators with a 2JZ swap, and i have NO IDEA how or IF they are keeping them cool. I ran a CXRacing aluminum radiator for a year and had a ton of cooling issues. so i upgraded to a Koyo Aluminum radiator and a custom oil cooler setup since then the car has ran A LOT cooler, so invest in a QUALITY radiator and i would look into doing a oil cooler as well (More oil cooler info in the Section 6 Bolt on and modification section You can either use a Ka24de radiator, and cut a few inches off of the upper water neck on your 2JZ and get a custom radiator hose from Napa or your local parts store. For the lower radiator hose you can use a factory Supra Twin Turbo lower radiator. Or you can use a SR20DET radiator, and you can use factory upper and lower Supra TT radiator hoses. but the upper will be a little shorter. you can also modify your upper radiator outlet and move it over a few inches to use a factory upper hose. Such as what Tech2 offers with there radiator. Again I strongly recommend a large QUALITY radiator.


- Electric fans - get the slimmest dual 12” fans you can find, cause fitment is crucial. i have ran “ebay style” dual 12” fans on a switch and they seem to have worked fine decent I then made the switch to a higher end radiator fan/shroud combo from Flex-A-lite in the 410/420 Series fans and those are easily one of the best fan setups you can get for your JZ swapped S-Chassis.

- Dakota Digital stuff. You will need a speedo and tach interface to allow you to use your factory 240sx gauges with your new 2JZ-GTE. You will also need a magnetic pick up coil to get your rpm off your R154 or V160 (if you run a automatic you do no need this. The other option is go go with a custom gauge setup for your speedometer and Tachometer. Speedometer & Tachometer Interfaces

Here is my custom gauge setup using a Speedhut speedometer and tachometer (3 3/8”) while using 2 AEM 52mm gauges.


- Pulley kit. You will need a new Water pump pulley when you make the switch to the USDM water pump you can either get a OEM Toyota one or you can get a Greddy pulley kit which usually runs $300 + or you can get a eBay aluminum pulley kit which can be had for right around $100. Drift Motion also makes a pulley kit as does Power House Racing. Non Stop Tuning now also offers a variety of colors for pulleys as well.

- Heater hoses. Well let me start off by saying MOST of the off the shelf kits make having heat on a factory twin turbo 2JZ-GTE S13 near impossible as one of the heater core fittings on the firewall pretty much touches the rear turbo housing. so during the time i ran the factory USDM twin turbos i had no heat, which sucks. Once i went single turbo i was able to get heat, so i just got some heater hose from Napa and hooked it up, pretty straight forward. i would suggest getting some self adhesive heat wrap for the heater hoses for how close it is to the turbo/downpipe. Here is a picture of how the heater hoses are routed.


- Sway bar spacers or different front sway bar. do to the fitment of the 2JZ oil pan the factory sway bar will NOT fit. you can either get a spacer made to lower the sway bar the 1 ½” - 2” you need. or you can get a SIKKY front sway bar. they make a sway bar to clear LSX swapped 240sx’s and these WILL clear your 2JZ. I've also heard that the Whiteline RB swap front sway bar will clear but I cannot confirm this.

- Gauges. One of thee most important things you can get when doing a swap. i recommend getting the following gauges. Water temp gauge -VERY important as 2JZ 240sx’s run very hot. And you would not want to trust the factory “ON/OFF” style temp gauge of the 240sx. Other gauges include Oil temperature and Oil pressure is also high on that list. if you want to do a nice way of doing the oil pressure you can use the IS300 bolt trick, found here (http://www.mkiv.com/techarticles/oil_sensor_mod/index.html) To do a oil temp you could get a sandwhich adapter with a port for a gauge. the adapter size you will need for a 2JZ is (3/4 unf -16) You should obviously also get a boost gauge, as well as it would be smart to get a Wideband o2 If you plan on running a modified 2JZ-GTE as the Air / fuels are very important.

- Battery relocation and battery. face it your Ka battery wont keep up with the 2JZ invest in a little bigger one, you will need to relocate your battery to the trunk, unless you try and use one of the ½ sized batteries that are on the market, Though i'm not sure most ½ size batteries will keep up with the big fans/fuel pumps/etc.

- Fuel line. You will need to get a few feet of fuel line, as the KA24/SR/RB/etc all have the fuel rail on the right side, and the 2JZ is on the left you will need to make your lines go to the other side of the engine bay, not a big deal, here is one way you can do it. Also as a side note, i happened to use a Z32 Fuel filter as well worked fine. The other way you could do it is run AN style lines and fittings from the fuel pump top-hat to the fuel rail its self.


- Power steering lines I used the factory 240sx hi pressure line (it was leaking when it was a KA24DE) Then i replaced it with a Stainless steel ISIS power steering line. I ran the ISIS line for about a year and a half and it started to leak, so I removed it and ISIS sent me another one, Though I never installed it I decided to make my own using higher quality fittings and lines (XRP) If you are interested in a XRP kit feel free to contact me.

ISIS Power Steering Line.






Custom made XRP Power Steering Line.


Don’t forget little things, Coolant (Toyota recommends using TOYOTA RED coolant USE IT!) I noticed the car ran much cooler and more consistent with the Toyota Red coolant. ATF fluid for your power steering (Toyota recommends using ATF for your power steering pump) Oil, Well use synthetic pretty much use what ever you have a preference with.

Section 3: Where to find your 2JZ-GTE[/U][/B]

There are many online places that claim they can get you 2JZGTE’s some i have seen have been junk, i got mine from FNFmotors.ca in Canada and it came i pretty good shape, there was NO IGNITOR, so i had to source one, not all places include one. also they sent me a 2JZGE (non turbo ecu) so be sure to check what you get. Though FNF motors has changed names so I'm not sure how well they work anymore. I would encourage alot of you guy’s to check out Robert @ Zerolift autofab as he has great prices and everything i have heard is top notch. plus he is in the United states where most places are in Canada, Though I have heard Zerolift Is no longer dealing with JDM Engines so you may want to check with JDM Engine World or the other sponsors here on Zilvia.net. if you have gotten a SR20/RB/B16/Etc swaps in the past, check out where you got your previous motor they should be able to source you one. You may also want to check Ebay.com once in a while you can find a complete USDM motor/trans/etc. Other wise it's another location to find a JDM 2JZ-GTE.
Also keep an eye out on ClubLexus.com as well as Supraforums.com for people who are parting out cars and what. Don’t forget you can still get a 2JZGTE straight from Toyota still to this day if your pockets are deep enough.

DO NOT FORGET, YOU NEED A FRONT SUMPED JZ to fit PROPERLY into a 240sx.


Section 4: Swap kits
There are a few companies out there that offer swap kits and they range anywhere from just $300 all the way up to $1,500. here are a few of the mount kits.

Who: Tech2 Motorsports
Cost: $1,550 and a $200.00 Core charge for your stock cross member.
Whats included: Modified stock cross member, Transmission mount, Drive shaft for R154, shifter extension, and the Tech2 2JZ swap DVD.]I personally run this kit, so i will go a little more in depth with this kit. The kit uses your factory 240sx cross member and basically cut part of it off, and welds on a flat piece that allows you to use the factory Toyota Aristo (JDM 2JZGTE) mounts. The driveshaft seems to be a high quality piece as well, although i did have some errors with it at first which made me send it back to get redone then sent back to me and i still needed to buy an extra piece (this was to run the A340e automatic)[/FONT][/COLOR]

Good:
- Fitment works, and no real guessing games as some of the hard stuff has been done for you- Stock OE look, which is nice.


- Price, it is way more expensive then it should be. for someone to just modify your stock cross member which looks like it doesn't take more then an hour, and it just uses stock Aristo 2JZGTE mounts.
- Modifies your stock cross member, which as far as i knows will not allow you to compete in some drifting and road racing organizations so be sure to check your rule book!

Here is a pic when i got mine.


You can also buy Aristo/Soarer/SC/etc motor mounts and modify your crossmember to look like the TECH2 Kit.
[/FONT][/COLOR][/FONT][/COLOR]
Who: Zerolift
Cost: $Varies
Whats included: Custom engine mounts that use stock cross member and a custom transmission mount.

Zerolift bought the rights to the old “ruckus racing” motor mounts. so they are the same mounts just under a new name. I’ve had no first had experience with them so i can’t say anything good or bad, hopefully someone will chime in.

picture from their site:



Freed Engineering is a GREAT choice and has been around for a few years I haven't heard anything bad from them.
www.freedengineering.com

The engine as low and far back as possible, even fits with the GE intake manifold (only tested in the S14 so far). Designed, cut and welded here in our shop.



- There is also a few “ebay” swap kits that range from $160 - $200. they are your typical metal mount and rubber bushing design. not much information availible.[/FONT]
The other great option is the GET NUTS Fabrication mount kit pricing seems to be well in line with the other companies mounts.



Section 5: Wiring[/B]

Arguably one of thee hardest things to concur while doing a 2JZ/1JZ in a 240sx. And still to this day hard facts and solid diagrams and layouts are pretty much non existent....unless you are willing to pay for that information.

[COLOR=#000000][FONT=Arial]There are pretty much two way’s you can wire up your 2JZ/1JZ 240sx. The first one, and the most simple is PAY someone else to do it for you.That is what i did and let me tell you something it was the best choice for me, as i have little to no wiring skills. I sent my harness out to Tech2 back in 2008 Tech2 has since stopped doing wiring harness work. Chase Bays has jumped on the JZ/S-Chassis wiring service as of late, but there has been alot of hit and miss on what kind of quality there is. Wiring Specialties seems to be the new "go to" place for off the shelf as well as custom wiring harness conversions. I am currently having them build me an all new harness that should work and look way better than what i had before. There are other members of Various forums who claim they can do it for a small fee as well. One of them Dave “Z U L8R” On Zilvia.net says he will do them for a fee, Justin Collins (Q-FAB out of South Carolina) has done JZ wiring for the S-Chassis so you can contact him. There is also Tweaked Performance AKA "Dr Tweak" Who have made harness for years for various JZ swapped cars. Expect to pay anywhere from $700 on up to $1500 to get your wiring done depending on who and what you need done to the harness. Like stated i used www.WiringSpecialties.com and will continue to go back to them for any and all of my wiring needs, Matt, Yuri and Chris have gone above and beyond to help me out.

The Second option is learn how to do it yourself, download the Aristo/Supra wiring schematics and the 240sx of your ownership and get to work, good luck. As i have never done this i do not have much information on this current stage, so i will try and update this with any and all wiring information i find from this point on.

some of my .02 on the wiring subject: I've read many threads with people banging there head against the wall and i have gotten countless pm's and emails and messages though youtube,zilvia,nico,supraforums,etc. about how the wiring was done and how people can't get pthere car to start or stay running. I know of a few people who "did the wiring them selves to save money" and they couldn't figure it out, so they took the car to shops to have them do it, where they had to pay labor rate AND for all the new parts that a shop will say is "bad" and should be replaced, or have just decided after spending countless hours trying to do it themselves that they should send it out to a professional. Really makes the $800-1500 price for a harness service seem like a good value.

UPDATE (7/20/11) 2JZ-GE Wiring information: http://zilvia.net/f/engine-tech/390883-2jz-wiring.html

Section 6: Bolt on’s and modifications

This is where the fun stuff happens. this is all about doing what you want. You could go mild to WILD.



keep in mind these cars run warm so i would strongly recommend a oil cooler. if you don’t want to purchase an off the shelf one or custom make one yourself feel free to email me [[email protected]], cause i am offering a full oil cooler setup for a 2JZ-S1 using a high quality cooler quality lines as well as fittings and sandwich adapter. You can however order a Greddy/Trust/HKS kit but those are about $500+

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2JZ-GTE Swapped S13 Coupe - 1994 Supra Turbo

h815 240sx

Fantastic information!

Also another wiring option, is to hit up Jeff of Jordan Innovations, he always does really good work and quoted me at a great price for a 1jz into s13.

Flicktitty

Good stuff, i know he does a ton of LSX stuff, i didn't realize he was doing JZ swap wiring as well i'll see if he chimes in. thanks.

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2JZ-GTE Swapped S13 Coupe - 1994 Supra Turbo

h815 240sx

Do you have any pictures of the exhaust crossover for using a aftermarket exhaust instead of making a custom one as seen below?





Also do you have any info on the new power steering lines you need to run? or can you use stainless sr/ka high or low?

Flicktitty

i will have to get some pics of the exhaust once it is back on the car, or maybe i can take the picture of the exhaust off the car tonight. I just had a fabrication shop make a 3" pipe from the Megan OE Type II catback to the CXracing 3" downpipe.

Power steering lines - I used the factory 240sx hi pressure line (it was leaking when it was a KA24DE) Then i replaced it with a Stainless steel ISIS power steering line. I plan on swapping this out again later this year in favor of a custom power steering line i will be making with all black lines and fittings and i will then market it to the 2JZ-S-Chassis community. Though the ISIS line does work awesome.

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2JZ-GTE Swapped S13 Coupe - 1994 Supra Turbo

310R

Taylor Durdan at durdan prefab,does excellent harnesses.He did my sr harness and it is flawless.He also took the time relocate the ignitor in to the cabin of the vehicle.Very reasonable pricing and said he can swap any motor into a 240sx.Hit him up,great guy and easy to talk to.

camaro379ss

what a wealth of info!

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1991 Nissan B13 Sentra sr20det 300whp/1991 Nissan S13 240sx sr20det ~260whp

Nismo JLo

abundant amount of info. GREAT WRITE UP BROTHA!

mwilloughby87

awesome information man. Wish this much would have been readily available when I started doing my swap a while back.

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mwilloughby87

Another bit of useful information that alot of GTE guys will do, is that they will switch to the NA waterpipe off the back of the waterpump in order to clean up some of the non used pipes that are on the GTE waterline.

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R33E8

fuck yes! This is what I need!!! This is the only part of my 2jz swap I have at the moment.. Haltech 2000 with fully terminated 2jz harness..



Now I'm just looking to run across a good deal on a v160 trans or 6-speed front clip..

h815 240sx

I couldn't tell by your pictures, but is there enough room to run fans?

jr_ss

Look closer... You can see twin FAL's in there.

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My SR20VET

daryl337

+1, plethora of info there

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This is my clever and witty signature.

Flicktitty

Awesome always good to have more wiring people. do you know if he has done a JZ/S-chassis car yet?

Thank you!

They BRAH.

Thanks, i have to agree. back in 06-07 when i was gathering some info on the swap there wasn't much GOOD info on it. then when i started it in 07-08 there still wasn't alot of help. Even to this day alot of shops/companies but no real HELP without forking out some money. and the people that have done the swap seem to be quiet.

Good thought as well, i can't say i've seen ALOT of people do this but some do yes.

Awesome, that car with a 6spd will be awesome!

yes it is a VERY tight fit, make sure you get some SLIM fans. i got some of the "cheap" ones Tommy (ESone3) At ILL GARAGE had for sale, drop him a line see whats up. I'll see if i have some pics of the clearance.

True that. They are not in fact FAL's on mine.
Thanks guy's!

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2JZ-GTE Swapped S13 Coupe - 1994 Supra Turbo

mwilloughby87

You are definitely right man....not a whole lot of information out there at all. I posted some misc. stuff in my build thread, but the main site I post all of it too doesn't really care about technical stuff so I never got too in depth with it.

I was going to do a writeup on my dual in tank pump setup since I couldn't ever find a writeup on anyone else doing it with an s14, nor was I able to find a company that produced a hangar for it.

You might have previously mentioned it, but what did you end up going with?

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Flicktitty

Dual fuel system (at the hanger) isn't done yet. have a few ideas should figure it out in the next week or two and show some pics.

if you have any dual intank pics please post them.

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2JZ-GTE Swapped S13 Coupe - 1994 Supra Turbo

mwilloughby87

Yeah, I've got some pics of mine I will post up today. I went from a writeup I found on supraforums, and just applied it here. Doesn't look the prettiest, but it works just fine.

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Flicktitty

Took these pics this weekend when RE-building the coupe.

HEATER HOSES for the 2JZ-S13




The top hose consists of 2 90 degree heater hoses. with a coupler in the middle. pretty easy simple stuff.

the lower hose, i went to autozone and asked to look at there heater hose and grabbed one that looked like it could fit, i think i have the part number somewhere. but its pretty simple.

i also did some heat reflecting wrap over the heater hose since it is close to the motor and the downpipe once that is installed.

here are some more power steering for a 2JZ-S13 the stainless steel braided line is a out of the box ISIS line, i will be removing this in favor of a custom one later this year and i will be selling a copy of the one i built for myself if anyone is interested let me know. the other line is a factory DOHC hard line. and then a factory DOHC rubber line, as well as a 3/4" rubber hose from autozone to connect the pump to the resovoir.

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2JZ-GTE Swapped S13 Coupe - 1994 Supra Turbo

rb2024d

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This is not an appropriate Build Thread.
Quote:
Originally Posted by Rules and Guidelines

Build threads:
Almost everyone enjoys building their cars and sharing that experience, as well as checking out others' builds for inspiration. Sadly, far too many users have a tendency to do half-hearted builds and either rarely update or update with trivial progress. In the interest of keeping the Chat forum clear of three hundred 'Install SR, ziptie aero, rattlecan paint' threads, incomplete, or in-progress build threads are not allowed. If you have completed your build, wrangle all those pictures into a post and tell us about it, but make sure the build is finalized. If you insist on having an in-progress build, Premium members have a specialized subforum for that specific purpose.

Lees_Garage

This is not a build thread, it is an info thread!

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Build Thread

@lees_garage

GoToast

I haven't fully read all of this but I already have one remark. Get ridof the TCTB and either use an ebay TB or an oversized 1J one. That will help your Intake coupler clear the radiator better and produce better flow. Or just remove the TB and cut the TC stuff off and use a mildly longer coupling.
KA radiator is a must.
I had the same heat issues in my old coupe with a 1JZ and stock twins.
If ZeroLift hasnt changed their mount kit since I used it about a year ago, then highly advise aginst purchasing it. I had to custom knotch the mounts and some other jenky stuff to get fitment.
I would recommend either dual pusher fans or a V-mount setup(doing that on my next swap). And a low *C thermostat. Something like the TRD one or colder. Or just dont run one.
Also the problem I ran in to with Puller fans is that tyou have trouble finding a hight enough CFM in such a skinny fan. The lack of space between the fans and pulley's/timing cover cause a major air flow issue. Along with the variable of what front bumper you use, intercooler size and placement. I advise against using a stock front bumper(IMO). You risk overheating at low speeds.
Custom PS line works great, thats what I did. If I recall correctly mine was about 18 inches overall of braided stainless. And the return line off the resevoir will always leak on s13 if you've ever taken it off. Dgrease everything and try a little bit of black form-a-gasket or Toyota FIPG where it clamps on.

If I can think of anythng else that can help, I'll chime in. Otherwise It's good to see someone else sharin the knowledge.

Syncade

Hey OP,

Update the Ruckus Racing/Zerolift Mounts to "Terrible - Stay away"

I bent mine before the car was even driven hard. Zerolift offers no help or signs of caring.

Just an FYI for fellow members!

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Jets > Cars

Flicktitty

WOW, that SUCKS! thank's for the heads up.

Thanks for the added info. i will try and add some of this into the first post. If not, everyone can see it when they keep reading it.

Thanks for wasteing space in this thread. if you want to see MY BUILD thread go here: http://zilvia.net/f/chat/223490-2jz-...ect-300sx.html

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2JZ-GTE Swapped S13 Coupe - 1994 Supra Turbo

ta2dpnoy

Such a great info.! I am in the process of swapping in a 1jz vvti. The heater hoses cleared some confusion and so does the p/s line.

How do you go about using the JZ a/c compressor? I mean what kind of fittings do I need to use it? I don't think the stock s14 compressor fittings will work.

I will try and contact Taylor Durdan and see if he could do my wiring since everyone else is so busy like, Sean Palmquist and Z U l8er. Those are the only 2 guys I would send my harness to from what I read on other forums. Worst case is sending it to Tech2 or Phoenix Tuning. Drifts135, a member here, also knows how to wire a 1jzvvti into an s14 since he's done one for his buddy and he told me he could help me out. Tried contacting him but no reply.

aled

Very informative thread. I'll add some of my build tid-bits.

There's a thread on KA-T.org about the Bosch 044 modified to fit into the S14 Fuel tank.

Here: www.ka-t.org :: View topic - HOW TO: INSTALL BOSCH 044 in S14

I opted to re-route the fuel lines to the driver side frame rail. I was concerned about heating fuel and other dangers with turbocharger proximity. Converting to the opposite was very costly, but I think it's worth it.


In-line Walbro 255 paired with the in-tank Walbro 255.
All -6 AN line and fittings.


Use of an aftermarket fuel rail.
Posed a few issues. Since I upgraded the fuel injectors, I opted for a new rail. The feed fitting, pictured here, is an extremely tight fit. Fitting is a -8 Male into the Rail, to a 90 Degree -6 Male. This was the 4th setup I tried, and has not leaked yet.


Samco Kit, MKIII Supra was a perfect fit.
Radiator: Griffin 2 Core for the KA24DE.


Upper waterneck was modified.


Here's a good idea of the underchassis. Sikky sway bar fits excellent with the oil pan, absolutely ZERO clearance issues.


Parts for the oil cooler setup (not installed yet)
I'd be more than happy to elaborate for anyone interested.


Oh, here's the exhaust setup. The front section is oval for clearance, then converts to round tubing after the transmission mount.


Intercooler piping still under construction.

I'd like to see everyone's input on a throttle cable. Tech2Motorsports sells a bracket that utilizes the factory S-Chassis cable, which on the drivers side, the cable is super long.

mwilloughby87

For the throttle cable, I used a factory 93tt supra throttle cable and modified it to fit.

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Flicktitty

u can modify the stock ka cable bracket, i'll get a pic tomorrow

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2JZ-GTE Swapped S13 Coupe - 1994 Supra Turbo

ta2dpnoy

please do.

h815 240sx

interested in oil cooler set up too