View Full Version : SR20DET-All Boost but no Play
hdhype
06-23-2013, 07:29 PM
What I have: I have a stock SR20DET Redtop w/ 3 inch downpipe, FMIC w/ BOV, honeycomb air filter, spitfire ignition... Just recently got it running.
What is wrong: I gain boost pretty quickly, but it feels like the power isn't coming with the boost. I get to 4000rpm and my car looses a lot of torque, and pretty much struggles to keep going.
KoukiMonsta
06-23-2013, 07:31 PM
Is your timing correct?
Boost leaks?
Tps?
Simple things to check that will help us help you.
hdhype
06-23-2013, 07:47 PM
Is your timing correct?
Boost leaks?
Tps?
Simple things to check that will help us help you.
Thank you for your reply. I don't have time tonight, but I will look over these tomorrow.
Kingtal0n
06-23-2013, 11:47 PM
also check dat knock sensor; when unplugged you will get described symptom.
EccentricBro
06-23-2013, 11:58 PM
i'd check for boost leaks first considering that's the cheapest fix. sounds like its pissing out somewhere
Croustibat
06-24-2013, 09:08 AM
What I have: I have a stock SR20DET Redtop w/ 3 inch downpipe, FMIC w/ BOV, honeycomb air filter, spitfire ignition... Just recently got it running.
What is wrong: I gain boost pretty quickly, but it feels like the power isn't coming with the boost. I get to 4000rpm and my car looses a lot of torque, and pretty much struggles to keep going.
boost and no power usually means the timing is too retarded and the fuel mixture is lean.
so ...
1/ bin that leaky bov
2/ find and remove the other boost leaks
3/ if you still use the oem fuel pump, get a new one
4/ when the car is trouble free, bring it to a tuner (this MUST be the last step, a tuner cant work if the car has troubles)
ultimateirving
06-24-2013, 11:07 AM
boost and no power usually means the timing is too retarded and the fuel mixture is lean.
so ...
1/ bin that leaky bov
2/ find and remove the other boost leaks
3/ if you still use the oem fuel pump, get a new one
4/ Check knock sensor as stated before
5/ Timing is also likely greatly retarded
6/when the car is trouble free, bring it to a tuner (this MUST be the last step, a tuner cant work if the car has troubles)
Put together all suggested ideas and your order of operations!
hdhype
06-24-2013, 07:07 PM
boost and no power usually means the timing is too retarded and the fuel mixture is lean.
so ...
1/ bin that leaky bov
2/ find and remove the other boost leaks
3/ if you still use the oem fuel pump, get a new one
4/ when the car is trouble free, bring it to a tuner (this MUST be the last step, a tuner cant work if the car has troubles)
I believe you are right on the money about the timing. I Readjusted the CAS and the difference was like night and day. It doesn't boost "as" quickly now, but it feels much better now, and is able to keep power.
However, When I get the RPM to 5.5k while in gear, my car (hiccups)?
Feels like it misses a few ignitions, then continues to stutter it's way up to 6.5k.
So it's closer now, but not quite there.
Also the fuel pump is new, and was soldered and heat shrinked.
Edit: Also I wanted to thank everyone for their reply; I appreciate all the input.
AsleepAltima
06-25-2013, 02:16 AM
check the voltage at the fuel pump harness and make sure youre getting a full 12+ volts when running.
ultimateirving
06-25-2013, 11:40 AM
Lucky that the timing was an easy adjustment. But dont just leave it like that. Get a timing light and do it right, make sure its at 15*.
Second if you haven't done it yet, MAKE a Boost leak tester, and remove all the boost leaks, it will help you spool faster and should eliminate a lot of the hiccups you are experiencing
Croustibat
06-25-2013, 11:50 AM
What brand is that fuel pump ? I changed mine for a noname one and had to get a new pump again because it did not work properly.
What you are describing really looks like a fuel pump issue. Or you are on the verge of fuel cut (actually its a load cut but lets not argue about that). check your fuel pressure and fuel pump voltage, some low quality pump drain too much current for the weak sized electric cables and voltage drops.
if your fuel pressure drops with RPMs instead of being 3bars + boost (or - vacuum) , it means you have a fuel pump problem.
hdhype
06-25-2013, 03:30 PM
What brand is that fuel pump ? I changed mine for a noname one and had to get a new pump again because it did not work properly.
What you are describing really looks like a fuel pump issue. Or you are on the verge of fuel cut (actually its a load cut but lets not argue about that). check your fuel pressure and fuel pump voltage, some low quality pump drain too much current for the weak sized electric cables and voltage drops.
if your fuel pressure drops with RPMs instead of being 3bars + boost (or - vacuum) , it means you have a fuel pump problem.
walbro 255 lph.
I also have a fuel pressure gauge installed under the hood
But I'm going to take out my multi-meter and test the electrical.
hdhype
06-25-2013, 03:32 PM
Lucky that the timing was an easy adjustment. But dont just leave it like that. Get a timing light and do it right, make sure its at 15*.
Second if you haven't done it yet, MAKE a Boost leak tester, and remove all the boost leaks, it will help you spool faster and should eliminate a lot of the hiccups you are experiencing
I'm actually not familiar with what a timing light is, but time for some research.
Also this weekend I will make a boost leak tester.
I also want to thank everyone again for their input, I greatly appreciate it.
AsleepAltima
06-25-2013, 10:07 PM
you shouldnt be messing with the timing without a timing light. can you get close? of course. but when you mix boost in the equation - you dont want any detonation from having a bad timing adjustment.
steve shadows
06-26-2013, 02:20 AM
eh yeah timing. Buy a timing light it will save your life.
Croustibat
06-26-2013, 10:15 AM
timing light is 20$ on ebay. Get one and dont drive until you have one, you cant just eyeball your timing setting.
hdhype
06-29-2013, 09:27 AM
So I got a timing light, and I thought it was the coolest thing ever.
After adjusting the cas correctly with the proper tools, my car was able to exhibit satisfactory results.
So it seems that my timing was significantly retarded, and was producing boost, but no power. Then I had the timing just a little bit too advanced, and my car would pretty much stop itself from reving past 5k.
After adjusting the cas correctly with a light, I gain boost pretty quickly, and my car pulls much harder now through the whole rpm range.
I want to thank everyone for their help, and giving me an opportunity to correct my ignorance.
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