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Engine Tech Technical discussion related to all relevant engines such as KA, SR, RB, CA, 2JZ , L24/26/28, VG, VQ, and LSx series. |
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06-23-2013, 07:29 PM | #1 |
SR20DET-All Boost but no Play
What I have: I have a stock SR20DET Redtop w/ 3 inch downpipe, FMIC w/ BOV, honeycomb air filter, spitfire ignition... Just recently got it running.
What is wrong: I gain boost pretty quickly, but it feels like the power isn't coming with the boost. I get to 4000rpm and my car looses a lot of torque, and pretty much struggles to keep going. |
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06-23-2013, 07:31 PM | #2 |
Nissanaholic!
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Is your timing correct?
Boost leaks? Tps? Simple things to check that will help us help you.
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06-23-2013, 07:47 PM | #3 |
06-24-2013, 09:08 AM | #6 | |
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Quote:
so ... 1/ bin that leaky bov 2/ find and remove the other boost leaks 3/ if you still use the oem fuel pump, get a new one 4/ when the car is trouble free, bring it to a tuner (this MUST be the last step, a tuner cant work if the car has troubles) |
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06-24-2013, 11:07 AM | #7 | |
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Quote:
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06-24-2013, 07:07 PM | #8 | |
Quote:
However, When I get the RPM to 5.5k while in gear, my car (hiccups)? Feels like it misses a few ignitions, then continues to stutter it's way up to 6.5k. So it's closer now, but not quite there. Also the fuel pump is new, and was soldered and heat shrinked. Edit: Also I wanted to thank everyone for their reply; I appreciate all the input. |
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06-25-2013, 11:40 AM | #10 |
Zilvia FREAK!
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Lucky that the timing was an easy adjustment. But dont just leave it like that. Get a timing light and do it right, make sure its at 15*.
Second if you haven't done it yet, MAKE a Boost leak tester, and remove all the boost leaks, it will help you spool faster and should eliminate a lot of the hiccups you are experiencing
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06-25-2013, 11:50 AM | #11 |
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What brand is that fuel pump ? I changed mine for a noname one and had to get a new pump again because it did not work properly.
What you are describing really looks like a fuel pump issue. Or you are on the verge of fuel cut (actually its a load cut but lets not argue about that). check your fuel pressure and fuel pump voltage, some low quality pump drain too much current for the weak sized electric cables and voltage drops. if your fuel pressure drops with RPMs instead of being 3bars + boost (or - vacuum) , it means you have a fuel pump problem. |
06-25-2013, 03:30 PM | #12 | |
Quote:
I also have a fuel pressure gauge installed under the hood But I'm going to take out my multi-meter and test the electrical. Last edited by hdhype; 06-26-2013 at 05:20 AM.. Reason: changed ohmmeter to multimeter. |
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06-25-2013, 03:32 PM | #13 | |
Quote:
Also this weekend I will make a boost leak tester. I also want to thank everyone again for their input, I greatly appreciate it. |
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06-25-2013, 10:07 PM | #14 |
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you shouldnt be messing with the timing without a timing light. can you get close? of course. but when you mix boost in the equation - you dont want any detonation from having a bad timing adjustment.
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06-26-2013, 02:20 AM | #15 |
Post Whore!
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eh yeah timing. Buy a timing light it will save your life.
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06-29-2013, 09:27 AM | #17 |
So I got a timing light, and I thought it was the coolest thing ever.
After adjusting the cas correctly with the proper tools, my car was able to exhibit satisfactory results. So it seems that my timing was significantly retarded, and was producing boost, but no power. Then I had the timing just a little bit too advanced, and my car would pretty much stop itself from reving past 5k. After adjusting the cas correctly with a light, I gain boost pretty quickly, and my car pulls much harder now through the whole rpm range. I want to thank everyone for their help, and giving me an opportunity to correct my ignorance. |
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boost, struggle, torque |
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