Sr20det doesn't go past 3,500 rpm

[247_c2c]

Hey everyone I just rebuilt my sr it starts up and everything but when I try and rev it up it doesn't go past 3500 rpm it just pops and like the engine does out but doesn't turn off... I pulled the cas off and set that but when I did that the timing links didn't match up to the marks on the cam anymore... Would I have to pull it all apart again and set everything over? I really hope I don't have to because I would haw to pull the engine out to get to it... Please if anyone has run into this problem let me know ASAP! Thanks in advance!

[slow40sx]

you just have to put it at top dead center, line the little pin sticking off the front cover up with the 2nd mark from the left on the crank pulley and then set the cas to the dot closest to the assembly and restab it and the not going over 3500 sounds like a MAF sensor issue

[Hellother]

Why do you have to pull the motor to set timing? and yea the 3500 and running rich is maf all day

[247_c2c]

Well I would have to take off the oil pan to take off the front cover... And I disconnected the maf and still won't go past 3500

[slow40sx]

you don't need to take the front cover off you misread what i said, there is a little pin sticking off the front of the front cover right over the crank pulley, u just rotate the crank until the pin lines up with the correct mark on the crank pulley it self, not wrenching required

[slow40sx]

and if you unplug the maf and it has no effect that means it is either a bad maf of bad maf wiring

[247_c2c]

Well how would I know that the gold link is on the timing mark on the crank gear?

[slow40sx]

if you installed everything properly, when you roll it over to top dead center everything should be lined up, if not then you fucked up when you assembled it

[slow40sx]

but if it runs smooth just rich and won;t go past 3500 then your timing was fine, its your maf

[247_c2c]

Well I did but when I took off the valve cover to check the cas and make sure is was good the two top marks and links are off by two teeth

[247_c2c]

Idk if it's running Rich but it idles smooth

[slow40sx]

was it at top dead center when you checked it?

[247_c2c]

Yea I turned it over twice just to make sure

[blueshark123]

Change your fucking mafs. damn just listen to people. Your timing may be off also but the 3500 rev limit is ur maf

[slow40sx]

you lined the crank pulley up at top dead center and then pulled the valve cover off to find that the cams were both off 2 teeth?

[RhdjokerNJ]

maf sensor its running in limp mode right now.. check voltage going to the maf sensor. it might be the sensor or the wires to the sensor.

[247_c2c]

Slow40sx yea

[247_c2c]

Rhdjokernj would you happen to know what voltage is supposed to be at the maf?

[RhdjokerNJ]

should be 12v going to it. idk which maf u have but one wire should have 12v going to it.

with my old coupe i had a rb20 in it and the 12v wire had resistance somewhere along it and only gave 8v to maf so i had to rewire that wire from the ecu to maf

[slow40sx]

Slow40sx yea


then put it at TDC, pull the cam gears and set the chain on them properly and put them back on the cams, problem solved, aslong as you make sure it stays at TDC the whole time

[slow40sx]

well, timing problem solved, you still have a MAF issue

[247_c2c]

Well I just pulled off the maf when it was running and it idles higher and a Lil smoother when I plugged it back in the car dropped in idle and was a Lil bit rougher them when it wasn't plugged in

[247_c2c]

Just checked voltage and it's getting 10.46v to the maf

[S14DB]

What's the voltage on the sensor line of the maf?

[247_c2c]

10.46v is on the harness

[S14DB]

There are 3 lines on the maf. Power, Ground and Sensor.

You are saying you have 12v, 0v, 10.46v?

[247_c2c]

I have 0v 0v 10.46v

[S14DB]

With the maf connected?

[247_c2c]

When it's connected I'm getting .85volts 45.5mv 10.46volts

[S14DB]

With ignition on or engine running?

[247_c2c]

Key on engine off

[S14DB]

Eww, that's way to high. Should be like 0.25v

Also, what's your battery voltage?

[247_c2c]

At the battery is 12.10volts

[247_c2c]

Do you think it could be the ecu?? Im running a mines tuned ecu that I got with the swap but he didn't tell me what it was tuned for and the car is running way to rich

[[email protected]]

theres your problem. i could be tuned to a z32 maf and you dont even know it

[247_c2c]

I have a stock ecu just not here with me so I might have to try that in a sec but would that still make it stop reving at 3500?

[slow40sx]

what maf sensor do u have?

[247_c2c]

The Stock sr

[slow40sx]

i would try the stock ecu, the ecu u have is probably tuned for a z maf

[247_c2c]

I'm already on my way back to the car with the stock ecu

[247_c2c]

Fixed it! Thanks for the help guys! I was the dumbass that didn't check for all vacuum problems

[S14DB]

Do you think it could be the ecu?? Im running a mines tuned ecu that I got with the swap but he didn't tell me what it was tuned for and the car is running way to rich

The MAF should be putting out 0.25v at key on not 0.85v. It's way to high especially at 10v. ECU thinks there is a lot more air than there is.

What is the voltage at the ecu? I wonder where the voltage drop is.

[Dolby109]

Glad you have it solved.
As for the original chain questions, it may be just fine. Because the chain is not symmetrical it will not line up with the marks every time. If you turn it over enough eventually you should get the marks on both cams right as it hits TDC (second mark from the left I believe). It may take as many as 15 or 20 revolutions.

[247_c2c]

The MAF should be putting out 0.25v at key on not 0.85v. It's way to high especially at 10v. ECU thinks there is a lot more air than there is.

What is the voltage at the ecu? I wonder where the voltage drop is.

Yea I'll have to look into it I didn't check the voltage at the ecu yet I kinda called it a day lol it was getting late so imma do it this week when I have a chance

[247_c2c]

Glad you have it solved.
As for the original chain questions, it may be just fine. Because the chain is not symmetrical it will not line up with the marks every time. If you turn it over enough eventually you should get the marks on both cams right as it hits TDC (second mark from the left I believe). It may take as many as 15 or 20 revolutions.

Thanks! Yea because if it was off then the car wouldn't start so I would think at least