View Full Version : SR20DET falls on its face @ 5.5K rpms
StryfeS13
07-19-2011, 08:41 PM
I've been working on my friends SR20 and I can't figure out why it's doing this. It's almost like it hits fuel cut, or a rev limiter, and just completely stops building boost, accelerating, etc.
There are no boost leaks, AFR's are good, etc.
His set up is:
S15 T28 Turbo at stock boost
Apex'i AVCR
Sard 550cc injectors
Z32 MAF
I have checked timing,ignition timing, i've tried turning the AVCR to "off," I've checked plug gaps, etc. I've tried all I can think of.
Also tried to completely remove the AVCR from the picture, by unplugging it, and routing the wastegate straight to the hotpipe, instead of the boost controller. Same issue.
Any thoughts?
sebastianwrx
07-19-2011, 09:23 PM
.............
Sileighty_85
07-19-2011, 09:42 PM
What are the plugs gapped to?
thizzen4
07-19-2011, 10:00 PM
CHECK UR TPS SENSOR next to throttle body might have a dead spot in it holddd it all the way down with a screw driver and have some one rev and see if its thatt
sebastianwrx
07-19-2011, 10:12 PM
What are the plugs gapped to?
0.28 and tps was fine we checked
fuel pump checked yet?
edit: what is the fuel pump?
sebastianwrx
07-19-2011, 10:45 PM
fuel pump checked yet?
edit: what is the fuel pump?
walbro 255
chininsan
07-19-2011, 10:54 PM
do you have the stock rubber intake piping?
check that. sometimes the spring inside of it screws up.
codyace
07-19-2011, 11:07 PM
boost leak
StryfeS13
07-19-2011, 11:28 PM
do you have the stock rubber intake piping?
check that. sometimes the spring inside of it screws up.
Yes, it has stock rubber intake piping.
How can the spring cause it to do this?
boost leak
We've checked all couplers, even made a boost leak tester...there is no boost leak. However, the Greddy RS bov has a little hole on the back of it (factory), and it leaks during the boost leak test, why is this?
sebastianwrx
07-20-2011, 12:50 AM
hi just checked my buddy car and lil update when the car was cold it goes the boost no problems and no fuel cut ...so what could be it ?..bad fuel pump or coil?
codyace
07-20-2011, 07:58 AM
We've checked all couplers, even made a boost leak tester...there is no boost leak. However, the Greddy RS bov has a little hole on the back of it (factory), and it leaks during the boost leak test, why is this?
That part is ok, it's just a little vent to aide in the operation of the blow off valve -- it leaking doesn't effect how the car runs.
WHen this condition occurs, can you go WOT and the car continues to run, albiet off the 'limiter' sort to speak.
NismoR003
07-20-2011, 08:02 AM
what do you mean it stops building boost?
does it maintain boost or it falls back to 0?
can you be more specific?
StryfeS13
07-20-2011, 02:25 PM
That part is ok, it's just a little vent to aide in the operation of the blow off valve -- it leaking doesn't effect how the car runs.
WHen this condition occurs, can you go WOT and the car continues to run, albiet off the 'limiter' sort to speak.
Oh, alright.
When it happens, yes the car continues to run, it doesnt turn off or sputter or anything. It just hits a wall. When the car is cold, it does not do this. I'm thinking maybe fuel pump....or coil harness?
what do you mean it stops building boost?
does it maintain boost or it falls back to 0?
can you be more specific?
The car hits a wall and does nothing...that's as specific as it can be explained haha.
codyace
07-20-2011, 02:52 PM
To check the coil pack harness you could check resistance and readings via Multimeter and FSM, I'd do that as if it checks out you can rule that out.
Member Jspaeth on here had an issue like this and his ultimately was solved by back probing the ECU pins and making sure they were making contact. I had a similar issue to this and it was a loose coupler, that had escaped my initial inspection of all couplers.
Aside from that, use the FSM to troubleshoot your main sensors....TPS, CAS, CTS, MAF and O2. It doesn't take long to check signal wire integrity.
JDMRIDDAZ
07-21-2011, 10:01 PM
u should rewire ur fuel pump
with heavy duty wire and relay
definatly check ohms on coils
also check the two plugs that power engine harness
to see if all wires r getting full 12v...
also is the engine like gurgling at 5.5 k ?
or cutting off?
also do u have a tuned ecu ?
if so try a stock one and see wat happens
Sil-Eighty SE-K
07-21-2011, 10:11 PM
i say pump.... throw in a gauge and see hwat it reads at WOT when it happens
sebastianwrx
07-21-2011, 11:28 PM
Coil harness checked theyre reading 12.5 in all 4...
sebastianwrx
07-22-2011, 12:11 AM
u should rewire ur fuel pump
with heavy duty wire and relay
definatly check ohms on coils
also check the two plugs that power engine harness
to see if all wires r getting full 12v...
also is the engine like gurgling at 5.5 k ?
or cutting off?
also do u have a tuned ecu ?
if so try a stock one and see wat happens
hi i was at my buddy car earlier and checked the ohm in coil harness,tps,injectors,...tps was fine ,injectors at .14, coil harness all of them are 12.5 and when u go half throttle it goes fine and pass without fuel cut except when its full throttle than it gets fuel cut exactly at 5000 sometime 5200..could it be fuel pump getting bad?
codyace
07-22-2011, 08:01 AM
I knwo plug gaps were checked, but what are they set at?
sebastianwrx
07-22-2011, 08:26 AM
They were gap at .28
JDMRIDDAZ
07-22-2011, 10:43 PM
also i meant the ohms on the coil packs not just the 12v source they have to be 1k ohms
put a stock ecu on it and see if it happens again
codyace
07-23-2011, 10:42 AM
I knwo plug gaps were checked, but what are they set at?
Try gapping them down to .022 and see if that fixes it up. It may be spark blow out. With the age of these components getting older and olrder, it's hard to say how capable a 20 year coil pack is anymore.
KendallH
07-23-2011, 10:54 AM
I'd bet 5 dollhair its the knock sensor
codyace
07-23-2011, 11:23 AM
I'd bet 5 dollhair its the knock sensor
Knock sensor shouldn't even be working at that point, it's sub 4000 IIRC
StryfeS13
07-23-2011, 03:53 PM
Alright guys.
- I checked ECU codes, there is no knock sensor code. I built the motor and the knock sensor is good, and the wiring to the knock sensor is good.
- Today I gapped the plugs from .028 to .025, and it's the same deal.
- I tried retarding and advancing the timing, like 20 different times. Was never any better or worse, it made no difference.
- I swapped my walbro fp into it, which I know is good because it powered my KA-T just fine, problem still persists.
At this point, I'm thinking it may possibly be the coil packs themselves being bad?
Kinda lost.
codyace
07-23-2011, 04:22 PM
Is there anyway you can get a video of it when it happens?
StryfeS13
07-23-2011, 04:32 PM
Yeah I can try next time I see the car.
91s13shawn
07-23-2011, 04:33 PM
My car is having the same exact problem! it cuts out/ hits a wall at 5000ish but when the car is cold it runs great. Please let me know if you find what the problem is i have been stumped for months.
StryfeS13
07-23-2011, 04:36 PM
Do you have an AVCR, Shawn?
I hope you say no, so I can rule that out as a problem lol.
JDMRIDDAZ
07-24-2011, 08:31 AM
ur over looking something simple...i can feel it
fullthrottle
07-24-2011, 08:56 AM
Try a different maf. I know it says you have a z32 but you seem to have gone through every other suggestion I had. Timing was my first answer and then fuel pump. So if it's not the maf it could be that the Ecu was tuned for a rev limiter at that rpm.
Silverbullet
07-24-2011, 09:44 AM
I suffered from a similar issue a while back. Where the cut off seemed consistant to the RPM, but I noticed it was load dependant. The cut off point would be lower in a higher gear, amd the amount of throttle affected it also. For instance, at WOT in 2nd gear it may cut off at 6k rpm, and 3rd gear, it may cut out at 4.5k rpm, but at partial it may not cut out at all. Is yours like this also?
StryfeS13
07-24-2011, 11:54 AM
Yes mine is similar to that. If I go half throttle, it will not do it. Sometimes it cuts at 5, sometimes at 5.5, sometimes at 6. Etc.
Kyle W.
07-24-2011, 03:07 PM
Check your tps. I had the same thing happen to me.
GSXRJJordan
07-24-2011, 03:56 PM
boost leak
My first thought too.
- I tried retarding and advancing the timing, like 20 different times. Was never any better or worse, it made no difference.
This worries me. Check/set the base timing per the FSM. This was my second thought.
Yes mine is similar to that. If I go half throttle, it will not do it. Sometimes it cuts at 5, sometimes at 5.5, sometimes at 6. Etc
If it's not rev-dependent (it'll rev to redline with less load) then it's load-dependent, and that makes me think fuel or MAF. If it were more or less rev-dependent, I'd think more about timing/CAS/wiring.
What engine management is he using? SAFC or ROM tune?
StryfeS13
07-24-2011, 05:07 PM
Hey Jordan, thanks for stepping in.
- We checked for boost leaks, there are none.
- I set the timing back to FSM spec. It's at 15 BTDC @ 850 rpms.
- That is also what I was thinking. Because I can accelerate at 80 - 90% throttle and it wont do it. But the second i go WOT, it'll do it. The more boost I give it, the earlier it cuts. (for example, 14 PSI cuts at 4.5K) When it cuts, the AFR's don't go all crazy or anything, so I don't think it's fuel...
Maybe it is the MAF.
GSXRJJordan
07-24-2011, 07:12 PM
Load dependent and not going lean = MAF or engine management. You never mentioned what you're using to tune it? I know you're not trying this all on a stock SR ECU...
StryfeS13
07-24-2011, 07:19 PM
Yeah, definitely not stock ECU. It's an EFI Specialist ROM tune. We've talked to Khiem, he said it's all good.
jr_ss
07-24-2011, 08:09 PM
Have good grounds on the chassis/motor/etc? Sounds more like electrical inference causing the issue... I dunno just thinking out loud here...
StryfeS13
07-24-2011, 10:07 PM
Yeah we have good grounds. I'll check them just in case whenever the car is here again though. Probably tomorrow.
Still haven't tried a new maf yet either.
StryfeS13
07-25-2011, 02:28 AM
Tried a different MAF. Nothing.
GSXRJJordan
07-25-2011, 04:14 AM
Grounds are a great thing to start, but they tend to be more rev-dependent than load-dependent symptoms.
I'd start logging actual data, starting with MAF voltage. I'm guessing you're either max'n the MAF voltage or something's not getting enough power (voltage drop on an important component). Also what were your actual TPS readings at close/WOT, referenced to the TPS sensor ground?
fullthrottle
07-25-2011, 08:04 AM
Is it possible that the injectors aren't the size you thought they were and are actually flooding the cylinders at full boost? Did you buy them new or used? It would suck to have to get the flow test but if they are say 740cc instead of 550s or whatever you have it might not be flooding until a certain boost/load. Exhaust smell like fuel at all? Do you have a wideband?
Edit. Just saw that you said your a/f ratio is good.
fullthrottle
07-25-2011, 08:11 AM
Squeeze the intake and see if it's soft. It could be collapsing when the turbo starts to pull hard. Make sure the metal coil inside of it is spread out evenly through the whole intake pipe. If that's good double and triple check your couplers for cuts. Like around where it goes through the body of the car. Turbos build boost a lot faster than a compressor and can expand the couplers causing leaks that aren't apparent when testing for a boost leak. What psi did you bring the system to when doing your boost leak test? Make sure you test it at a lot higher psi than you plan to run. I test at 25psi to run 16psi.
Sileighty_85
07-25-2011, 08:12 AM
What brand plugs and Heat Range are you running?
StryfeS13
07-25-2011, 01:40 PM
Grounds are a great thing to start, but they tend to be more rev-dependent than load-dependent symptoms.
I'd start logging actual data, starting with MAF voltage. I'm guessing you're either max'n the MAF voltage or something's not getting enough power (voltage drop on an important component). Also what were your actual TPS readings at close/WOT, referenced to the TPS sensor ground?
The TPS voltage was .045 at closed, and like 4 something at WOT.
Squeeze the intake and see if it's soft. It could be collapsing when the turbo starts to pull hard. Make sure the metal coil inside of it is spread out evenly through the whole intake pipe. If that's good double and triple check your couplers for cuts. Like around where it goes through the body of the car. Turbos build boost a lot faster than a compressor and can expand the couplers causing leaks that aren't apparent when testing for a boost leak. What psi did you bring the system to when doing your boost leak test? Make sure you test it at a lot higher psi than you plan to run. I test at 25psi to run 16psi.
I'll try that today.
I tested it at around 20 PSI. I'm sure the car will never see more than 16 lbs.
What brand plugs and Heat Range are you running?
NGK BKR7EIX gapped at .025. Have also tried .028, .022, .030, .032
I'm trying to convince him to switch to copper plugs.
codyace
07-25-2011, 02:04 PM
NGK BKR7EIX gapped at .025. Have also tried .028, .022, .030, .032
I'm trying to convince him to switch to copper plugs.
Material isn't going to make any difference in this circumstance, just on the longevity of the plugs.
Do you have a way to log the values as you drive through the ECU or your consult port?
StryfeS13
07-25-2011, 03:10 PM
No, unfortunately I don't..
StryfeS13
07-25-2011, 07:57 PM
Figured it out....intake was collapsing.
Thanks for all the help dudes!
ultimateirving
07-25-2011, 08:14 PM
Figured it out....intake was collapsing.
Thanks for all the help dudes!
haha, make note of that shit. hard to diagnose for sure! what did u upgrade to, post a pic plz. ima gonna be upping my boost soon and wanna make sure this dont happen to me. (E85 conversion in progress)
codyace
07-25-2011, 10:52 PM
haha, make note of that shit. hard to diagnose for sure! what did u upgrade to, post a pic plz. ima gonna be upping my boost soon and wanna make sure this dont happen to me. (E85 conversion in progress)
Run a proper intkae tube and couplers
StryfeS13
07-25-2011, 11:36 PM
The intake that was on the car actually had NO spring inside of it.
We got a new intake and all problems have been resolved.
GSXRJJordan
07-26-2011, 12:19 AM
The intake that was on the car actually had NO spring inside of it.
We got a new intake and all problems have been resolved.
Fairly common problem, and I think it was brought up earlier in the thread! Glad you got it figured out :)
codyace
07-26-2011, 06:58 AM
The intake that was on the car actually had NO spring inside of it.
We got a new intake and all problems have been resolved.
Yea those stock ones collapse so easily!
A friend of mine had an instance of his car actually sucking the plastic cone inside the intake filter into the intake, essentially closing off the the intake...it would do some wacky stuff until he sorted it out.
Figured it out....intake was collapsing.
Thanks for all the help dudes!
Lol, what?
Can you take a picture of this happening and post it on here? It would bring this thread full-circle...
codyace
07-26-2011, 10:56 PM
Lol, what?
Can you take a picture of this happening and post it on here? It would bring this thread full-circle...
Imagine the intake tube to the turbo sucking the rubber accordian junk (or crappy coupler) shut....
91s13shawn
07-28-2011, 02:15 PM
no i dont have one
Tearlessj
07-28-2011, 02:21 PM
I was just about to come in here and post that.
Funny story, I was a instructor at one of the events and everytime I drove this guys car it would do that. When he drove it didn't do it. We figured out it was his intake and I was flooring his car all the way and he wasnt. Go figure.
fullthrottle
07-29-2011, 06:47 AM
What do I win for figuring it out?
StryfeS13
07-29-2011, 03:22 PM
Here, have this:
http://2.bp.blogspot.com/_53oMB4-fxXM/SVZZdJntnPI/AAAAAAAAAAM/vXEtrdBFtqI/s1600-R/cookie.gif
driftkid39
07-07-2012, 08:57 AM
I was having the same problem intake collapse and didnt know it thank you for zilvia 2 days and lots of parts changing BOOSTING NOW
rbsidewayz
05-09-2013, 03:08 AM
i hope i fix my problem tmrw once i get bak to my garage thnks to this thread i,a b able to trouble shoot every idea possible...lets see how it goes ..
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