Oil pan leak, again after reseal. HELP ME JESUS!

[jonnybonds84]

Can any one come up with a reason why my oil pan is leaking in the front of the engine almost in the same spot. I had a fel-pro gasket last time and this time I thought I would just use high temp silicone. Does anyone have a pic of the bottom of the front cover? When I changed my gasket I thought the bottom of the front cover was way too smooth so I roughed it up with some sand paper. I don't know why it's only int he front of the engine, can the oil pressure be too high or something else. Thanks in advance for the help.

[S14_Kouki]

No it will not be cause of oil pressure. From the factory they come with silicone. Just re-seal it again and if that does not work maybe you are leaking from the front main. Heres your pic.

http://i58.photobucket.com/albums/g269/pandadrifter/Picture319.jpg

[S14_Kouki]

PS use a decent amount of silicone and let it dry before you start it up and make sure the surface is clean.

[Sileighty_85]

DO NOT USE HIGH TEMP RTV!!!
It will leak every time!!!
Every person i see that uses this stuff on oil pans it leaks
Just because the engine get hot does not mean you need to use high temp


Use Black Prematex RTV
http://www.permatex.com/products/Automotive/automotive_gasketing/gasket_makers/auto_Permatex_Ultra_Black_Maximum_Oil_Resistance_R TV_Silicone_Gasket_Maker.htm

I use this RTV on every oil pan i have done and not one of them has leaked

[jonnybonds84]

Surface was extra clean (made sure of it), used a decent amount (made sure of it), and I left it a day without oil before starting it up.

[jonnybonds84]

Any one else had this problem with the RTV????? Never heard that this would be a problem, some people recommend it. Last time I used normal kind I believe and it leaked.

[Sileighty_85]

Any one else had this problem with the RTV????? Never heard that this would be a problem, some people recommend it. Last time I used normal kind I believe and it leaked.

Kinda hard man for it not to work right, all you gotta do is apply RVT, bolt up, let dry

I guess....

Make sure the oil pans lip isnt dented?

[jonnybonds84]

That may be it too, looking to buy a new one this time around.

[S14_Kouki]

Make sure the oil pans lip isnt dented?

I was going to say this but forgot lol sorry but yes check that.

[let5l1de]

I was going to say this but forgot lol sorry but yes check that.

It is also common to slightly warp depending on conditions such as loose pan subject to heat, many rebuilds with same pan, improper torque or tightening sequence, improper torque with cork or rubber gaskets. The front cover area and rear main area are typical areas of gasket failure when additional blow-by is experienced within the engine.

Get a straight edge and check the surface for any inconsistencies.

Also, fully clean the old sealant from the pan and properly apply the continuous bead within the sealant holding depression on the lip of the pan.

btw:
As an engine builder of over 17 years, I do agree that the Ultra Black Oil Resistant Permatex is best. But most RTV in hi-temp or standard gasket maker compounds will typically be fine as well.

[jr_ss]

Try using some acetone to remove any oil/grime from the surface desired to be RTV'd. I use the Ultra Gray RTV made by Permatex, it's what Nissan uses as well.

[jonnybonds84]

Has any one heard or seen warpage on the bottom of the front cover???? I just bought a new oil pan and I praying that this will fix it because it's going to suck major ass if it's the front cover.

[CinSun]

It is also common to slightly warp depending on conditions such as loose pan subject to heat, many rebuilds with same pan, improper torque or tightening sequence, improper torque with cork or rubber gaskets. The front cover area and rear main area are typical areas of gasket failure when additional blow-by is experienced within the engine.

Get a straight edge and check the surface for any inconsistencies.

Also, fully clean the old sealant from the pan and properly apply the continuous bead within the sealant holding depression on the lip of the pan.

btw:
As an engine builder of over 17 years, I do agree that the Ultra Black Oil Resistant Permatex is best. But most RTV in hi-temp or standard gasket maker compounds will typically be fine as well.

sorry, i don't mean to threadjack, but would you recommend using the ultra black permatex for sealing the front cover as well?

[KFLS14]

It is also common to slightly warp depending on conditions such as loose pan subject to heat, many rebuilds with same pan, improper torque or tightening sequence, improper torque with cork or rubber gaskets. The front cover area and rear main area are typical areas of gasket failure when additional blow-by is experienced within the engine.

Get a straight edge and check the surface for any inconsistencies.

Also, fully clean the old sealant from the pan and properly apply the continuous bead within the sealant holding depression on the lip of the pan.

btw:
As an engine builder of over 17 years, I do agree that the Ultra Black Oil Resistant Permatex is best. But most RTV in hi-temp or standard gasket maker compounds will typically be fine as well.
Ultra Black Oil reistant +2 I removed my buddies old pan it was stuck on pretty good. I noticed though 1 said oil resistant and the other didn't not sure if its just labeling or possibly different. Napa/Autozone.

[BlitzRPS13]

Ultra Black Oil reistant +2 I removed my buddies old pan it was stuck on pretty good. I noticed though 1 said oil resistant and the other didn't not sure if its just labeling or possibly different. Napa/Autozone.

I used the same thing on my gf's sr and it has no leaks at all.

[jonnybonds84]

Can anyone answer the front cover question? I've never heard of it.

[brian3676]

The front cover does not matter as long as its clean, then after getting all the old stuff off use some brake clean or i use paint prep cleaner and get ALL the stuff off even if you cant see the oil there is still some there trust me. Then apply a nice bead of gray RTV to the oil pan and screw the bolts in FINGER/HAND tight only! ( i know the package says this part is not necessary but i do it and it has never leaked once) Let it sit for 1 hour then come back and tourq them down to spec, if you over tighten it will just push all the RTV out and auctially seal worse then if you did it to spec.

[mbmbmb23]

Definitely let the RTV set up as a bead before you torque it to spec so it compresses uniformly when tightened.

[jonnybonds84]

I got my new oil pan from FR sport but now that I got it it looks like the pan got kinda banged up and I wondering what every body thinks. the back of it seems to be a little warp and now I worried it might leak from the back. Let em know if you guys think I should be worried.

http://i212.photobucket.com/albums/cc268/jonnybonds84/IMAGEunos/Photo0081.jpg

http://i212.photobucket.com/albums/cc268/jonnybonds84/IMAGEunos/Photo0083.jpg

http://i212.photobucket.com/albums/cc268/jonnybonds84/IMAGEunos/Photo0084.jpg

This the front where it straight with no worries. This is where it was leaking before.
http://i212.photobucket.com/albums/cc268/jonnybonds84/IMAGEunos/Photo0085.jpg

http://i212.photobucket.com/albums/cc268/jonnybonds84/IMAGEunos/Photo0087.jpg

http://i212.photobucket.com/albums/cc268/jonnybonds84/IMAGEunos/Photo0088.jpg

http://i212.photobucket.com/albums/cc268/jonnybonds84/IMAGEunos/Photo0081.jpg

[jonnybonds84]

No one has any opinions on this?

[ManoNegra]

sorry, i don't mean to threadjack, but would you recommend using the ultra black permatex for sealing the front cover as well?

I wouldn't, use the gray one since it's made to imports' specs including Nissan.

only way that we stopped oil pan leaking on our motor builds
was to use the Felpro gasket along some RTV
make sure to follow the FSMs torquing procedure
also could be a leaking front main seal, very common problem on KAs

[VNG704]

Uh, it doesn't look straight to me. Talk to frsport.

[jonnybonds84]

After I straighten it out, what do ya'll think.

http://i212.photobucket.com/albums/cc268/jonnybonds84/IMAGEunos/Photo0095.jpg

http://i212.photobucket.com/albums/cc268/jonnybonds84/IMAGEunos/Photo0096.jpg

http://i212.photobucket.com/albums/cc268/jonnybonds84/IMAGEunos/Photo0097.jpg

http://i212.photobucket.com/albums/cc268/jonnybonds84/IMAGEunos/Photo0098.jpg

http://i212.photobucket.com/albums/cc268/jonnybonds84/IMAGEunos/Photo0099.jpg

[AznXstazy]

sound be fine. try to get a torque wrench in there and tighten it down to 12lb.

[jonnybonds84]

The FSM says it should be 4.7-5.5 LBs. That much would squish out the RTV and warp the pan I believe.

[AznXstazy]

my bad, i just went with the torque i have on my valve cover, but that has a rubber gasket thought it be the same, but ya just torque it he same amount of torque and you should be good to go. just don't go crazy with the RTV

[Lozer]

Im gonna say this once. use Right Stuff on everything that dosent come in contact with gas. That shit never leaks and has never failed me even when i use it on a filthy oil covered surface. Shit is amazing.

[jonnybonds84]

We'll a lil late, I put on my new oil pan on last Saturday, I haven't started it yet, I shall do it tonigh. Every one please cross your fingers for me.

[fcdrifter20]

it should be fine. just make sure u tighten them all. i had one guys with the same problem and kept blameing on a dented pan. i checked it for him, let him kno he left one of the bolts a little loose. he thn tightn that one bolt and thot it would work. but that wont work if u tightn it after the silicon has already dried.

[jonnybonds84]

3rd strike and I'm out.

This sucks. I made sure that it was clean, no oil at all. Good bead, all bolts tighten, correct RTV, new pan, no warpage on the front cover.

Any one want to make 50 bucks???? I'm out of ideas.

[garagelu]

Do you do the final torque when the rtv is still wet? When the RTV is still wet, I usually just hand tighten or snug it up and then I just let it sit for about an hour or two depending on the ambient temperature. Then I do the final torque after it cures for a little.

When you torque the joint down fully with the rtv still wet, it pushes a lot of it out. But still, its weird that its still leaking after so many attempts. Is it leaking in the same spot every time?

[jonnybonds84]

Yes, I waited an hour, then I torqued it. It went from the the middle, to the left, and now right (front of the pan). Don't know what it could be.

[jonnybonds84]

Talk to my old school mechanic buddy, he suggested to take a look at the PCV system. He said if its clogged up the pressure will start popping gaskets.

[240SXREX]

just like with rear main seals, sometimes it takes a second try or three. I replaced my oil pan gasket and it leaked on the front so on the second time i double checked in sequence and found that after final torque some of them needed to be tightened to specs again using torque wrench in sequece again. I guess it takes care of some warpage on third torque and it didn't leak and with using RTV just put enough to hold the gasket in place, not on both sides.

[om3ga]

put it on a flat surface, use a socket extension and pound all the holes down. Use a cork gasket and Ultra black on both sides, tighten all the bolts correctly and let it dry overnight.

[Norty]

Are you sure that the front cover doesn't have a small crack or that the front seal is good? Not doubting your skills or anything but it is really unusual for a oil pan just to start leaking right after start-up unless there is like a big gap/hole or something. I mean i've done like really horrible jobs before putting oil pans on before (being in a hurry and really just half ass cleaning and knowing it is prolly gonna leak) and it be at least a couple days of driving before anything.

[PoorMans180SX]

First off, it really wasn't necessary to rough up the surface with sand paper. The bottom of the front cover is machined on purpose so it has a perfectly flat surface to seal with.

Secondly, I never use cork or any other kind of gaskets on my oil pans. They always get off the holes and push RTV everywhere.

Black RTV, everything super clean, put a nice bead around the pan and all the holes, put them together, tighten bolts finger tight. Let set for at least a couple hours. Come back, torque to 5ft-lbs, moving around the oil pan bolt by bolt (front, rear, left, right, repeat or whatever). If that doesn't seal your pan, then you have other problems.

[yukon]

is the a 1990 s13 we are talking about?

the following is for dohc


http://i36.photobucket.com/albums/e25/vancouverbc_2008/zilvia5.jpg
http://i36.photobucket.com/albums/e25/vancouverbc_2008/zilvia336.jpg

[aznpoopy]

where exactly are you leaking from? are you sure it's the oil pan?

the front cover is just bolted onto the engine with a silicone gasket of its own. if you are leaking from the bottom of one of the sides where the cover meets the engine, it may appear to be a leaky oil pan, when its really the cover.

or it may be the front main seal.

[jonnybonds84]

Yeah, Im sure it's the oil pan. Here's the break down.
http://i212.photobucket.com/albums/cc268/jonnybonds84/Untitled.jpg

[jonnybonds84]

So bringing this back from the dead. Big update I think everybody might be interested in. Pretty much REALGASKETS.COM is making a reuseable oil pan gasket made of a rubber compund like the Felpro rubber gaskets. It looks like they are going for $26.95 plus shipping ($7 or so shipping i would assume). I know there are alot of people that might be interested so spread the word. I would say the more people buy the cheaper it might be.

Hers is the main thread.
www.ka-t.org :: View topic - Oil pan leaking in same spot after reseal. (http://www.ka-t.org/forums/viewtopic.php?t=44921)
Hera is the poll and interest thread.
www.ka-t.org :: View topic - Reusable Oil Pan Gasket: How many people want one? (http://www.ka-t.org/forums/viewtopic.php?p=381417#381417)

[jonnybonds84]

And it turned out it was my Front Main seal again................

[VRAQ]

Damn...that sucks. Do you know how/where the Front Main Seal is???
I think I'm gettin oil leaked from there as well. It's definitely not from my oil pan. I've drained the oil out from there and its been over a week now, yet i still have oil slowly drippin.

Do you mind takin pics when you re-seal your front main seal?

[NiSilS14]

The front main seal is behind the crank pulley on the lower timing cover. For anyone that needs to do their oil pans again. This is the only stuff I will use from now on. It's pressurised too so it'll lay perfect beads.

http://www.artsautomotive.com/classic/FluidsHondaUltraFlange.jpg

[jonnybonds84]

Pretty much what happened with me is the first and second time it leaked on the front seal becuase I got a horrible suggestion to put some silicone on the seal to prevent leaks but when you put silicone on the seal it prevents the oil to come in contact with it. The seal got too heated and eventually failed. DON'T APPLY SILICONE TO THE SEALS!!!! lol. I learned the hard way...The third time it was because I had a crack on my pulley.