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Old 10-18-2009, 08:13 PM   #1
jonnybonds84
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Oil pan leak, again after reseal. HELP ME JESUS!

Can any one come up with a reason why my oil pan is leaking in the front of the engine almost in the same spot. I had a fel-pro gasket last time and this time I thought I would just use high temp silicone. Does anyone have a pic of the bottom of the front cover? When I changed my gasket I thought the bottom of the front cover was way too smooth so I roughed it up with some sand paper. I don't know why it's only int he front of the engine, can the oil pressure be too high or something else. Thanks in advance for the help.
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Old 10-18-2009, 08:58 PM   #2
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No it will not be cause of oil pressure. From the factory they come with silicone. Just re-seal it again and if that does not work maybe you are leaking from the front main. Heres your pic.

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Old 10-18-2009, 08:59 PM   #3
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PS use a decent amount of silicone and let it dry before you start it up and make sure the surface is clean.
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Old 10-18-2009, 09:12 PM   #4
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DO NOT USE HIGH TEMP RTV!!!
It will leak every time!!!
Every person i see that uses this stuff on oil pans it leaks
Just because the engine get hot does not mean you need to use high temp


Use Black Prematex RTV
http://www.permatex.com/products/Aut...sket_Maker.htm

I use this RTV on every oil pan i have done and not one of them has leaked
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Old 10-18-2009, 09:14 PM   #5
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Surface was extra clean (made sure of it), used a decent amount (made sure of it), and I left it a day without oil before starting it up.
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Old 10-18-2009, 09:16 PM   #6
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Any one else had this problem with the RTV????? Never heard that this would be a problem, some people recommend it. Last time I used normal kind I believe and it leaked.
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Old 10-18-2009, 09:19 PM   #7
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jonnybonds84 View Post
Any one else had this problem with the RTV????? Never heard that this would be a problem, some people recommend it. Last time I used normal kind I believe and it leaked.
Kinda hard man for it not to work right, all you gotta do is apply RVT, bolt up, let dry

I guess....

Make sure the oil pans lip isnt dented?
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Old 10-18-2009, 10:35 PM   #8
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That may be it too, looking to buy a new one this time around.
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Old 10-18-2009, 11:47 PM   #9
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Quote:
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Make sure the oil pans lip isnt dented?
I was going to say this but forgot lol sorry but yes check that.
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Old 10-19-2009, 12:33 AM   #10
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Quote:
Originally Posted by S14_Kouki View Post
I was going to say this but forgot lol sorry but yes check that.
It is also common to slightly warp depending on conditions such as loose pan subject to heat, many rebuilds with same pan, improper torque or tightening sequence, improper torque with cork or rubber gaskets. The front cover area and rear main area are typical areas of gasket failure when additional blow-by is experienced within the engine.

Get a straight edge and check the surface for any inconsistencies.

Also, fully clean the old sealant from the pan and properly apply the continuous bead within the sealant holding depression on the lip of the pan.

btw:
As an engine builder of over 17 years, I do agree that the Ultra Black Oil Resistant Permatex is best. But most RTV in hi-temp or standard gasket maker compounds will typically be fine as well.
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Old 10-22-2009, 05:05 PM   #11
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Try using some acetone to remove any oil/grime from the surface desired to be RTV'd. I use the Ultra Gray RTV made by Permatex, it's what Nissan uses as well.
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Old 10-31-2009, 10:57 AM   #12
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Has any one heard or seen warpage on the bottom of the front cover???? I just bought a new oil pan and I praying that this will fix it because it's going to suck major ass if it's the front cover.
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Old 10-31-2009, 11:12 AM   #13
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Quote:
Originally Posted by let5l1de View Post
It is also common to slightly warp depending on conditions such as loose pan subject to heat, many rebuilds with same pan, improper torque or tightening sequence, improper torque with cork or rubber gaskets. The front cover area and rear main area are typical areas of gasket failure when additional blow-by is experienced within the engine.

Get a straight edge and check the surface for any inconsistencies.

Also, fully clean the old sealant from the pan and properly apply the continuous bead within the sealant holding depression on the lip of the pan.

btw:
As an engine builder of over 17 years, I do agree that the Ultra Black Oil Resistant Permatex is best. But most RTV in hi-temp or standard gasket maker compounds will typically be fine as well.
sorry, i don't mean to threadjack, but would you recommend using the ultra black permatex for sealing the front cover as well?
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Old 10-31-2009, 11:12 AM   #14
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Quote:
Originally Posted by let5l1de View Post
It is also common to slightly warp depending on conditions such as loose pan subject to heat, many rebuilds with same pan, improper torque or tightening sequence, improper torque with cork or rubber gaskets. The front cover area and rear main area are typical areas of gasket failure when additional blow-by is experienced within the engine.

Get a straight edge and check the surface for any inconsistencies.

Also, fully clean the old sealant from the pan and properly apply the continuous bead within the sealant holding depression on the lip of the pan.

btw:
As an engine builder of over 17 years, I do agree that the Ultra Black Oil Resistant Permatex is best. But most RTV in hi-temp or standard gasket maker compounds will typically be fine as well.
Ultra Black Oil reistant +2 I removed my buddies old pan it was stuck on pretty good. I noticed though 1 said oil resistant and the other didn't not sure if its just labeling or possibly different. Napa/Autozone.
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Old 10-31-2009, 11:45 AM   #15
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Ultra Black Oil reistant +2 I removed my buddies old pan it was stuck on pretty good. I noticed though 1 said oil resistant and the other didn't not sure if its just labeling or possibly different. Napa/Autozone.
I used the same thing on my gf's sr and it has no leaks at all.
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Old 10-31-2009, 02:23 PM   #16
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Can anyone answer the front cover question? I've never heard of it.
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Old 10-31-2009, 11:36 PM   #17
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The front cover does not matter as long as its clean, then after getting all the old stuff off use some brake clean or i use paint prep cleaner and get ALL the stuff off even if you cant see the oil there is still some there trust me. Then apply a nice bead of gray RTV to the oil pan and screw the bolts in FINGER/HAND tight only! ( i know the package says this part is not necessary but i do it and it has never leaked once) Let it sit for 1 hour then come back and tourq them down to spec, if you over tighten it will just push all the RTV out and auctially seal worse then if you did it to spec.
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Old 11-01-2009, 11:11 AM   #18
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Definitely let the RTV set up as a bead before you torque it to spec so it compresses uniformly when tightened.
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Old 11-17-2009, 11:12 PM   #19
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I got my new oil pan from FR sport but now that I got it it looks like the pan got kinda banged up and I wondering what every body thinks. the back of it seems to be a little warp and now I worried it might leak from the back. Let em know if you guys think I should be worried.







This the front where it straight with no worries. This is where it was leaking before.






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Old 11-18-2009, 01:04 PM   #20
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No one has any opinions on this?
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Old 11-18-2009, 02:50 PM   #21
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Quote:
Originally Posted by CinSun View Post
sorry, i don't mean to threadjack, but would you recommend using the ultra black permatex for sealing the front cover as well?
I wouldn't, use the gray one since it's made to imports' specs including Nissan.

only way that we stopped oil pan leaking on our motor builds
was to use the Felpro gasket along some RTV
make sure to follow the FSMs torquing procedure
also could be a leaking front main seal, very common problem on KAs
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Old 11-18-2009, 03:01 PM   #22
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Uh, it doesn't look straight to me. Talk to frsport.
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Old 11-18-2009, 07:38 PM   #23
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After I straighten it out, what do ya'll think.









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Old 11-18-2009, 09:27 PM   #24
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sound be fine. try to get a torque wrench in there and tighten it down to 12lb.
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Old 11-18-2009, 09:52 PM   #25
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The FSM says it should be 4.7-5.5 LBs. That much would squish out the RTV and warp the pan I believe.
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Old 11-18-2009, 10:00 PM   #26
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my bad, i just went with the torque i have on my valve cover, but that has a rubber gasket thought it be the same, but ya just torque it he same amount of torque and you should be good to go. just don't go crazy with the RTV
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Old 11-24-2009, 01:38 PM   #27
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Im gonna say this once. use Right Stuff on everything that dosent come in contact with gas. That shit never leaks and has never failed me even when i use it on a filthy oil covered surface. Shit is amazing.
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Old 11-24-2009, 03:05 PM   #28
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We'll a lil late, I put on my new oil pan on last Saturday, I haven't started it yet, I shall do it tonigh. Every one please cross your fingers for me.
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Old 11-25-2009, 04:53 PM   #29
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it should be fine. just make sure u tighten them all. i had one guys with the same problem and kept blameing on a dented pan. i checked it for him, let him kno he left one of the bolts a little loose. he thn tightn that one bolt and thot it would work. but that wont work if u tightn it after the silicon has already dried.
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Old 11-25-2009, 09:41 PM   #30
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3rd strike and I'm out.

This sucks. I made sure that it was clean, no oil at all. Good bead, all bolts tighten, correct RTV, new pan, no warpage on the front cover.

Any one want to make 50 bucks???? I'm out of ideas.
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