What the fuckkkk!!!!!!!!!!

[mattro]

so im tq'ing my head back on after a LONG and tedious "build" and one of my head bolts WILL NOT TQ DOWN.

and b4 anyone can say it, i followed FSM tq procedure TO THE LETTER.

only when i try to tq to 105 from 70 do i have a problem, (arp tq to 105 in 3 equal steps. 35, 70, 105.)

i swear to god ill part my car out now if somone even utters the word "stripped" remember, it tq's to 70. but not 105. also, all the other nuts have no problem going to 105, just the second from the front exhaust side.

[Sileighty_85]

what do you mean wont tourqe down?

like still spinning? or wont go all the way down?

[mattro]

what do you mean wont tourqe down?

like still spinning? or wont go all the way down?

it never gets any more resistance on it after 70ftlbs

so yea. it just keeps spinning.

so that in my mind means the stud is just coming up through the threads in the head.

[zylvia213]

have you unscrewed it out? If you have is it hard when unscrewing? If the thread is stripped on the block then you would automaticly see it on the head bolt cause pieces of the thread itself will end up on the head bolt. I know in some cars theres short and long bolts.... maybe your using one thats too short???? As you are torquing that one bolt does it just spin like freely or is it kinda tight?

[mattro]

have you unscrewed it out? If you have is it hard when unscrewing? If the thread is stripped on the block then you would automaticly see it on the head bolt cause pieces of the thread itself will end up on the head bolt. I know in some cars theres short and long bolts.... maybe your using one thats too short???? As you are torquing that one bolt does it just spin like freely or is it kinda tight?


bolts are all the same length.

ill go unscew it now and post a pic.

like i said, it will tq to 70ft lbs but not to 105. so its tight but not tight enough.


edit. IT WONT COME OUT!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! :madfawk: :bash: :mad:


im done, i quit.

about to push my 24 to the end of the drive way with a "free" sign on it.

[Sileighty_85]

talk to a machine shop maybe they can helicoil it??
never delt with this problem before

[mattro]

talk to a machine shop maybe they can helicoil it??
never delt with this problem before


there arent any within walking distance. i live in rochester, we used to have a bunch. now there all out of business.


and thanks for the help guys. idk what to do now.

[smink]

ARP makes 10mm blot kits and 11mm bolt kits for the head. If it is stripped, which sure sounds like thats the case, you could get the 11mm kit and have your block drilled and tapped for the 11mm's. Which is kinda good, because then you can up the boost with less worries.

[mattro]

ARP makes 10mm blot kits and 11mm bolt kits for the head. If it is stripped, which sure sounds like thats the case, you could get the 11mm kit and have your block drilled and tapped for the 11mm's. Which is kinda good, because then you can up the boost with less worries.

im running stock internals.

so after a bit of man-handling my head off the block. here is what i found,

arp head bolt FAIL

remember i tq'd this one the same as the two middle ones,

here is a pic you wont believe.

http://i460.photobucket.com/albums/qq322/97ser/100_0839.jpg

as much as i am relieved, i still cant get it out of the block. any ideas?

[4sfed180]

to drill and tap it he still has to, at least, pull the head off.

try to take the stud out again. be careful but forceful. maybe thats not the right choice of words but i hope you get it.

good luck and post some pics.


Edit: posted a few secs after you did.

the bolt went into plastic deformation.

i dont thing you can use an allen wrench on top any more. get a stud extractor tool and pull it out.

sent this pictures to ARP and have them send you a new one.

[Azimmer]

stripped ahahahahaha

[mattro]

yea i will be doing that, and i figured about the allen lol, im so happy i kept my cool and dint punch somthing. whew, glad thats over.

[smink]

Wow...ARP for the lose, at least this round.

[TheWolf]

Get used to it.. ARP moved production facilities to china about 6 months ago. Alot of racers have found this out.

as for the stud in the block... you'll need this

http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/displayitem.taf?Itemnumber=94640

[mattro]

stripped ahahahahaha

your a bum.

and thanks for the link, much appreciated.

WAIT there made in china? the box still says usa.

[steve shadows]

It looks like you did not follow instructions properly or you are using extremely USED equipment

[username]

You could just put 2 nuts on the top set of threads, tighten them together, then use a wrench on the bottom nut to turn the stud out.

[atutt]

Plasma cutter solves all lifes little problems... Neighbours dog being a dick and won't shut up? Take a plasma cutter to his toe....

I'd be calling up ARP and bitching like a 13 year old school girl who just found out her b/f made out with her 16 year old sister.

[Nissan_Power]

so...if ARP cant be trusted no more, what company makes good, reliable studs ???

[jr_ss]

For starters, you're trqing the ARP's way too high. 4 even steps to 80ftlbs on the ARP's. 20-40-60-80, done. 105 is not the right number you need to be going to. There have been multiple people that have done this/gotten the wrong information in their packets and have broke and/or stretched them doing this.

[steve shadows]

You should not be torquing them past 75 ftl ls period... they are studs not bolts, they work differently and better

[Sileighty_85]

For starters, you're trqing the ARP's way too high. 4 even steps to 80ftlbs on the ARP's. 20-40-60-80, done. 105 is not the right number you need to be going to. There have been multiple people that have done this/gotten the wrong information in their packets and have broke and/or stretched them doing this.

yeah i remember reading those threads, here the instructions that came with my SR ARP's
http://i73.photobucket.com/albums/i235/Neil_85/Misc/DSCN1671.jpg

[mattro]

It looks like you did not follow instructions properly or you are using extremely USED equipment

wow funny, i followed the instructions to the letter using a brand new tq wrench.

thanks for the insult to my intelligence. not to be a dick but, damn that was pretty dick-y thing for you to say. i may not be as exp'd as you but id like to think that my auto tech teachers passed me and gave me written recommendations for at least being able to follow instructions and being able to tq. properly.

moving on............

and here are the ones that came with my set. they clearly say 105. woa, i can read.

since arp failed (again lol) to respond to my email, im calling them as soon as i get off from work tomorrow.
http://i460.photobucket.com/albums/qq322/97ser/100_0840.jpg

You could just put 2 nuts on the top set of threads, tighten them together, then use a wrench on the bottom nut to turn the stud out.

i thought about that, but chances are i would have to put just as much force on the nut to remove the stud and the problem is that its that its now stretched, and i might just snap it.
besides the stud remover is a 4.99 tool that i dont have. might as well pick one up.

so...if ARP cant be trusted no more, what company makes good, reliable studs ???

i second this.

[steve shadows]

wow funny, i followed the instructions to the letter using a brand new tq wrench.

thanks for the insult to my intelligence. not to be a dick but, damn that was pretty dick-y thing for you to say. i may not be as exp'd as you but id like to think that my auto tech teachers passed me and gave me written recommendations for at least being able to follow instructions and being able to tq. properly.




?????

How was that a dick thing to say?

I have not followed instructions before and I am man enough to admit it...

It's not a big deal, someone, me, is trying to help you pin point the isssue and you obviously either used VERY used ARP studs as fill ins for new parts or you did not follow the very specific install for ARP studs on an SR>

They are very specific and it is very easy to over torque if you miss a step.

Its not as simple as just Torquing it the right way.

1. you have to pre-set them in the head properly with a special lubricant
2. you have to pre-load them into the head with an allen key at just the right torque
3. you have to remove them completely in sequence...
4. you have to install the head flush and properly set it on the deck
5. you have to re install the studs with the allen key at the right torque/turn
6. you have to then install lubricant to your nuts and then put the nuts on in sequence properly
7. Torque the nuts down in sequence properly. You don't need more than 75 ft lbs period. anything over 90 and you will stretch break your studs, which is what you did again, UNLESS they are old equip.

NOW SLOW DOWN ARE YOU SURE YOU HAVE THE RIGHT MODEL NUMBER FOR BOLTS???

ARP typically reboxes or re-sells Acura Integra units for the SR20 motors. Shops that are not SR specific and do not know this will not advise their cusotmers on the differences of installing thes studs.

Now if you still have 100% right set of ARP studs (which recently they did release a revised set that is specific to the SR with instructions) then something else ie, your torque wrench is not calibrated or you got a Factory defective set might be a possibilty - I know and have done MANY of these installs in a jiffy, so this would have to the key issue

see...and even after you said something very ignorant that made no sense I was still nice enough to lay it all out for you.

:wavey:

[steve shadows]

i second this.

anyone who uses english in the following maner "ARP CANT BE TRUSTED NO MORE"

cannot be trusted.

You need to slow down for a second and think logically.

Mazworx makes a far superior stud set but is tripple the price.

It is very possible you got the wrong units, defects or tool failure in you have the exactly right instrucitons.

Something is off though...105 is ALOT, unless they revised the kit from a couple of years ago

[jr_ss]

If they were meant to go to 105, I don't think they would stretch like it did Steve. I have never heard of going over 80lbs with ARP's in the SR application.

[steve shadows]

If they were meant to go to 105, I don't think they would stretch like it did Steve. I have never heard of going over 80lbs with ARP's in the SR application.

You are not supposed to torque over 80 ft lbs.

75-80 MAX is what everyone uses who builds SRs for any length of time.

There was a write up on it on Freshalloy in 2002...

Now unless ARP has changed the model they sell for th SR...This could be possible.

I remember about 4 years ago they were still using the LS Acura Integra motor studs which on the SR only needed to be torqued to 75 lbs max because they did not SEAT all the way into the deck of the block/ or thread all the way down 100% into the holes in the deck of the blck. So they handled slightly different tolerances due to this

[spartanmisfit]

I had a similar problem with my dsm a few years back. It ended up being that my block was warped.

[Nissan_Power]

anyone who uses english in the following maner "ARP CANT BE TRUSTED NO MORE"

cannot be trusted.


Im sorry if english is not my first language....but still, you understood ???

[mattro]

?????

How was that a dick thing to say?

I have not followed instructions before and I am man enough to admit it...

It's not a big deal, someone, me, is trying to help you pin point the isssue and you obviously either used VERY used ARP studs as fill ins for new parts or you did not follow the very specific install for ARP studs on an SR>

They are very specific and it is very easy to over torque if you miss a step.

Its not as simple as just Torquing it the right way.

1. you have to pre-set them in the head properly with a special lubricant
2. you have to pre-load them into the head with an allen key at just the right torque
3. you have to remove them completely in sequence...
4. you have to install the head flush and properly set it on the deck
5. you have to re install the studs with the allen key at the right torque/turn
6. you have to then install lubricant to your nuts and then put the nuts on in sequence properly
7. Torque the nuts down in sequence properly. You don't need more than 75 ft lbs period. anything over 90 and you will stretch break your studs, which is what you did again, UNLESS they are old equip.

NOW SLOW DOWN ARE YOU SURE YOU HAVE THE RIGHT MODEL NUMBER FOR BOLTS???

ARP typically reboxes or re-sells Acura Integra units for the SR20 motors. Shops that are not SR specific and do not know this will not advise their cusotmers on the differences of installing thes studs.

Now if you still have 100% right set of ARP studs (which recently they did release a revised set that is specific to the SR with instructions) then something else ie, your torque wrench is not calibrated or you got a Factory defective set might be a possibilty - I know and have done MANY of these installs in a jiffy, so this would have to the key issue

see...and even after you said something very ignorant that made no sense I was still nice enough to lay it all out for you.

:wavey:


and i appriciate that. and my point was that you sir assumed that i didnt do it properly.

i have the 102-4701 nissan 2.0l de/det dohc bolts.

now. like i said, i did follow the instuctions to the letter, these are "brand new" arp studs and bolts and i was useing a NEW tq wrench, i posted a pic of the instructions literally on my coffee table and they do say "7. Following the manufacturers recommended tq seq tighten the nuts in THREE EQUAL STEPS to 105 ftlbs with arp moly assembly lube."

i think this is just a case of a bad bolt. because if i was tq ing the bolts too much, why didnt the others fail?

and on a seperate not, i have much different instuctions than you do, apperently.

mine actually use the phrase "hand tight"

here are pics of model # and full instructions.
http://i460.photobucket.com/albums/qq322/97ser/100_0841.jpg
http://i460.photobucket.com/albums/qq322/97ser/100_0843.jpg


I had a similar problem with my dsm a few years back. It ended up being that my block was warped.

it is a very low mile block, supposedly


EDIT!

just got off the phone with arp.

they HAVE changed the studs. for those of you saying that 105 is too much, you would have been correct a year or so ago. i do have the proper instructions and they sent me a new stud free of charge. (yea stickin it to the man!)

thank you all for your help.

[BigVinnie]

Get used to it.. ARP moved production facilities to china about 6 months ago. Alot of racers have found this out.

as for the stud in the block... you'll need this

- Harbor Freight Tools - Quality Tools at the Lowest Prices (http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/displayitem.taf?Itemnumber=94640)


I know I don't even use ARP for anything any more.
I'll either get the bolts I need from fastenal, or from McMaster Carr, fucking expensive bolts but the quality and grade is superior. Just putting it out there that there are alternatives to ARP.

[mattro]

I know I don't even use ARP for anything any more.
I'll either get the bolts I need from fastenal, or from McMaster Carr, fucking expensive bolts but the quality and grade is superior. Just putting it out there that there are alternatives to ARP.

cool cool, i will look into fastenal, there is one near me.

[steve shadows]

wow i did not know they moved to CHINA

what a total FAIL

doesnt really matter for me, I only recommend the Maxworx ones now...

[TheWolf]

wow i did not know they moved to CHINA

what a total FAIL

doesnt really matter for me, I only recommend the Maxworx ones now...

Alot of builders have been having problems with new Arp2000 rod bolts with what were bullet proof setups they had been running for years. I know one guy who's got 4 motors in his shop with split rods. They've switched to the aged 625 stuff and it seems to have fixed it.

I thought mazworx kit was ARP studs just in 1/2" instead of the metric.

[jr_ss]

Alot of builders have been having problems with new Arp2000 rod bolts with what were bullet proof setups they had been running for years. I know one guy who's got 4 motors in his shop with split rods. They've switched to the aged 625 stuff and it seems to have fixed it.

I thought mazworx kit was ARP studs just in 1/2" instead of the metric.


I believe Mazworx worked in collaboration with ARP to design a headbolt/stud specifically for our application, rather than the generic units most of use have. Their bolts seat all the way down in the head similiar to the Greddy/Tomei units, that preload the threads in the block before you start trqing them down.

The 1/2" studs are an upgrade and requires machining to your head/block.

[steve shadows]

Yeah I suggest the big BOYS, for the serious people

[chingon]

I know I don't even use ARP for anything any more.
I'll either get the bolts I need from fastenal, or from McMaster Carr, fucking expensive bolts but the quality and grade is superior. Just putting it out there that there are alternatives to ARP.

Haha, I was gonna suggest MCmaster Carr. I always wondered how much it would cost to put together a stud set from their catalogue....and then sell as aftermarket super-duper mega bolts ala ARP.

[BigVinnie]

Haha, I was gonna suggest MCmaster Carr. I always wondered how much it would cost to put together a stud set from their catalogue....and then sell as aftermarket super-duper mega bolts ala ARP.


SHHHHH! we aren't suppose to be giving away the McMaster-CARR secrets.
Before you know it all we would need from JGS is the manifold flanges, instead of a kit thats over priced, while everyone else buy's the exhaust tubing for a fraction of the price....
Only people that are into aeronautics,mechanical engineering, and industrial work really know alot about McMaster-Carr.

[mattro]

Get used to it.. ARP moved production facilities to china about 6 months ago. Alot of racers have found this out.

as for the stud in the block... you'll need this

- Harbor Freight Tools - Quality Tools at the Lowest Prices (http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/displayitem.taf?Itemnumber=94640)


according to the cust service ppl at arp there still made entirely in the usa, i made a point to ask.

[BigVinnie]

according to the cust service ppl at arp there still made entirely in the usa, i made a point to ask.


I asked too. Its not the production that moved to china. The steel is coming from china, and if the steel isn't processed/forged correctly it will be brittle and snap. I've been using Chinese steel for some industrial applications and it's horrendous. I've literally snapped number 4 rebar with my bare hands.
The good steel comes from USA, Germany, and India but it's almost double the price.

[TheWolf]

according to the cust service ppl at arp there still made entirely in the usa, i made a point to ask.

then I guess it should read "Made in the USA with Chinese Materials" :smash:

[mattro]

then I guess it should read "Made in the USA with Chinese Materials" :smash:

lol yea pretty much.

next time i do anything and arp is an option, im using the other option.

[mattro]

so i get my new bolt in the mail, and not wanting to live through ^ that again, i took it to my friends dad, who has built many many engines. and who also happens to be ASE certified. you will not guess what happened AGAIN but in a different location in the block.

im seriously packing my lemon suit to fly to cali and camp outside of ARP's corporate office.

[mattro]

anyone who uses english in the following maner "ARP CANT BE TRUSTED NO MORE"

cannot be trusted.

You need to slow down for a second and think logically.

Mazworx makes a far superior stud set but is tripple the price.

It is very possible you got the wrong units, defects or tool failure in you have the exactly right instrucitons.

Something is off though...105 is ALOT, unless they revised the kit from a couple of years ago


i checked into the mazworx stud kit, arp makes it. so thats fubar.

any other suggestions?

[jr_ss]

I believe Mazworx worked in collaboration with ARP to design a headbolt/stud specifically for our application, rather than the generic units most of us have. Their bolts seat all the way down in the head similiar to the Greddy/Tomei units, that preload the threads in the block before you start trqing them down.

The 1/2" studs are an upgrade and requires machining to your head/block.

i checked into the mazworx stud kit, arp makes it. so thats fubar.

any other suggestions?

Welcome to the conversation...

I'm telling you man, 80ft-lbs is all the higher you should be trqing them. I understand ARP has said 105ft-lbs, but you've now twisted off 2 ARP's.

I've bought 2 sets from them, one as recently as Jan. Both of my kits have said 80ft-lbs.

[BigVinnie]

DAMN IT!! The mcmaster-carr bolt is 20mm shorter!!!!
http://i27.photobucket.com/albums/c166/BigVinnie/Mcmaster-carheadbolt.gif

Fastenal does offer the bolt. Cost $5.14
General Information
Fastenal Part No. (SKU) 23924
UNSPSC 31161518
Manufacturer FNL
Category Fasteners > Sockets > Socket Cap Screws
Diameter 5/8"
Drive Hex
Drive Size 1/2"
Finish Plain
Length 4"
Material Steel
Thread Fine
Thread Size 18
http://i27.photobucket.com/albums/c166/BigVinnie/fastenalbolt.jpg

[jr_ss]

DAMN IT!! The mcmaster-carr bolt is 20mm shorter!!!!
http://i27.photobucket.com/albums/c166/BigVinnie/Mcmaster-carheadbolt.gif

Fastenal does offer the bolt. Cost $5.14
General Information
Fastenal Part No. (SKU) 23924
UNSPSC 31161518
Manufacturer FNL
Category Fasteners > Sockets > Socket Cap Screws
Diameter 5/8"
Drive Hex
Drive Size 1/2"
Finish Plain
Length 4"
Material Steel
Thread Fine
Thread Size 18
http://i27.photobucket.com/albums/c166/BigVinnie/fastenalbolt.jpg

This is no different than a factory head bolt. Studs have a much higher clamping force than bolts.

[steve shadows]

i checked into the mazworx stud kit, arp makes it. so thats fubar.

any other suggestions?

I would contact Maxworx direct, i know they were making thier own in-house that were about 350 bucks for the set...i know I know...but call them and see what is up and voice your concerns...

[McCoy]

I would contact Maxworx direct, i know they were making thier own in-house that were about 350 bucks for the set...i know I know...but call them and see what is up and voice your concerns...
Actually, there head stud kit is $184.99... straight from their website.

Mazworx (http://www.mazworx.com/)

[AznXstazy]

just reuse the kits you ordered. replace the ones you messed up with the ones in your new kit or vis versa. as for tqing them so high i would NOT. even honda kits tq them to manufacture spec. arp recommended like 95lbs and i was about to break a the studs in there i could feel it. and left it at 65lbs. factory spec was 63. and i been driving it for about a month now. 300 miles a week. running fine. no leaky headgasket or anything. just my .02

[mattro]

Actually, there head stud kit is $184.99... straight from their website.

Mazworx (http://www.mazworx.com/)


but it is a arp product.



anywho. update i got a call from arp today. seems that lots of ppl are having this exact problem, and it turns out it was bad assembly lube. theve shipped a brand new kit and new "fixed" lube.

and new "revised" tq instructions.

and i said "lube" 3 times in this post !:eek3:

now all i have to do is reach arou....


rofl. done.

[BigVinnie]

Blame it on the LUBE!!!! LOL
I blame it on the the steel!!!
They even released different TQ specs.

[jr_ss]

I'd go to 80 and stop...

[mattro]

I'd go to 80 and stop...


yea thats what the guy on the phone said.

but yea.

its always a safe bet to blame the lube.

[steve shadows]

I usually suggest 75 MAX, 80 absolute MAX to The MAX, MAXOR!!!!!:tardrim::s101:

[mattro]

I usually suggest 75 MAX, 80 absolute MAX to The MAX, MAXOR!!!!!:tardrim::s101:

they just sent me new instructions that say 85 lol

[jr_ss]

75-80, you'll be fine there...

[Tantwoforty]

at least they took care of you.

[BigVinnie]

they just sent me new instructions that say 85 lol


What is the PSI tensile strength of those studs?

[mattro]

What is the PSI tensile strength of those studs?

off the top of my head i have no clue. where would one look for this info?

[BigVinnie]

off the top of my head i have no clue. where would one look for this info?
If ARP is selling you a stud they should have a calc for tensile strength.
I found a stud on McMaster carr rated at 125,000PSI. So I just wanted to see if the ARP is really better than the mc-mastercarr.
It should be listed.
I'll call ARP tomorrow to see if they have a PDF spec sheet they can email me.
Thanks Anyway

[mattro]

If ARP is selling you a stud they should have a calc for tensile strength.
I found a stud on McMaster carr rated at 125,000PSI. So I just wanted to see if the ARP is really better than the mc-mastercarr.
It should be listed.
I'll call ARP tomorrow to see if they have a PDF spec sheet they can email me.
Thanks Anyway
yea man sorry i dint ask when i had them on the phone.

lmk when/if you find out

[steve shadows]

What is the PSI tensile strength of those studs?

43000000

...jk

[Sileighty_85]

Ya'll need to use the internet more
http://video.arp-bolts.com/catalog/ARPCatalog.pdf

from the website

It is for good reason that virtually every top professional engine
builder relies on ARP Pro Series head studs for their all-out competition
powerplants. Simply stated, there’s not a better stud setup on the market today.

For openers, ARP uses a premium grade 8740 alloy that is rated far superior
to “aircraft” quality. Then, each stud is placed vertically in special racks and precisely
heat-treated to 200,000 psi. This procedure ensures complete heat penetration and
the results are far superior to those lesser quality studs from other manufacturers who just
dump pieces in a basket and hope for the best.

Following heat-treat, each stud is centerless ground to make it as close to perfectly concentric
as possible. This procedure involves about ten very slight cuts and results in an exceptionally straight
part. It’s important to note that lesser quality studs are not even centerless ground – the material is thread
rolled in bar stock form (mostly before heat-treat, when the material is easier to machine). Because ARP studs
are manufactured to such exacting tolerances, you will note that gaskets and cylinder heads literally glide into
position and are perfectly aligned – something that won’t happen with inferior quality head studs.

ARP studs are thread rolled after heat-treat, which gives them about 1000% (that’s ten times) better fatigue strength
than those studs that are threaded prior to heat-treat (a very common industry practice). It costs a lot more to do it this way,
because it’s tough on tooling, but the results are well worth the extra effort.

You will also note that ARP offers specially undercut studs for several engines. This procedure (done only to the shorter studs) more
equalizes the “stretch” of both studs, which makes for a more consistent clamping force – and one that compensates for head gasket
compression when the cylinder heads are installed. This helps prevent blown head gaskets, and assures optimum engine sealing!
Premium quality heat-treated 8740 chrome moly steel head stud kits are available for most every domestic and import applications. You
won’t find a better quality stud on the market from any other source. Look for ARP stamped on each stud as your assurance of quality.

[BigVinnie]

According to fastenals engineering torque spec guide both the ARP and the McMaster-CARR meet or exceed the minimum 125,000PSI tensil strength which meets under ASTM193.

It says in the guide that under lubrication conditions not to exceed a clamping torque of 79Ft/LB.s, under dry conditions to torque to 105FT/Lb.s.

So pretty much Mcmaster-CARR and ARP meet the 125,000LB minimum tensil strength.

According to ARP's instructions they sent mattro, if you are torquing to 85ft/lb.s that is 6 ft/lb.s exceeding the the ASTM guidlines for a bolt/stud of that tensil strength, lubricated.

Please read the fastenal PDF guide
http://www.fastenal.com/content/feds/pdf/Torque-Tension%20Chart%20for%20B7.pdf


Quoted at the bottom of fastenals PDF guide it states very clearly.
"Under/over tightening of fasteners can result in costly equipment failure or personal injury."

[mattro]

SWEET personal injury is why i got into cars.

[BigVinnie]

SWEET personal injury is why i got into cars.

I know the worst is when you swap an engine out and get your fingers stuck between the mount and engine. Fuck that shit is pain full. Worst personal injury I would say..

Sorry way off topic.

[mattro]

I know the worst is when you swap an engine out and get your fingers stuck between the mount and engine. Fuck that shit is pain full. Worst personal injury I would say..

Sorry way off topic.

yea i would say so.


quick update i put the head back on and everything went as planned.

got the engine back into the car and started hooking things back up this weekend.
http://i460.photobucket.com/albums/qq322/97ser/100_0886.jpg

[JDM Sil4ty]

"Free at Last Free at last !"
-MLK jr.

gl with your new bolt/s ..

[jr_ss]

You should probably get rid of the Sweet Neon Green zipties...

[mattro]

You should probably get rid of the Sweet Neon Green zipties...

funny. i chose them because of how neon green they were.

and i might consider it if they weren't holding in my rad.

beside the res of my car is ugly, why shouldn't the engine bay follow suit?

if anyone has a extra pair of stock rad supports they are willing to donate to the "get rid of neon green zip ties" fund, ill gladly accept. hell ill even pay shipping.

thanks for the input thou, i will keep this in mind.

[Sileighty_85]

just make some out of metal
http://i73.photobucket.com/albums/i235/Neil_85/PIC-0344.jpg

[jr_ss]

funny. i chose them because of how neon green they were.

and i might consider it if they weren't holding in my rad.

beside the res of my car is ugly, why shouldn't the engine bay follow suit?

if anyone has a extra pair of stock rad supports they are willing to donate to the "get rid of neon green zip ties" fund, ill gladly accept. hell ill even pay shipping.

thanks for the input thou, i will keep this in mind.

I think I may have some laying around from the S13 I had. I'll check it out, I find em' they are yours plus postage to get rid of those sweet neon green zipties...

[mattro]

just make some out of metal
http://i73.photobucket.com/albums/i235/Neil_85/PIC-0344.jpg


my fab skillz suck. i tried a cage once, bad bad things happened.

I think I may have some laying around from the S13 I had. I'll check it out, I find em' they are yours plus postage to get rid of those sweet neon green zipties...


deal.

pm me if you find em. we can go from there.