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S Chassis Technical discussion related to the S Chassis such as the S12, S13, S14, and S15.


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Old 03-21-2019, 01:22 PM   #1
Blixtin
 
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HELP! New SR20 Swap Not Running

I just finished buttoning up my swap yesterday and finally go to turn the key. I purchased it from a well known importer who said it was running and gave good compression numbers. It is an assumption that the engine is good
I used the Heavy Throttle and Speed Academy guides to complete the swap. As well as a ton of searching on this forum.

When I turn the key, all dash stuff seems to turn off although it show the battery light as a warning indicator.

The first few times i tried to start the car, it will start and idles roughly before dying 5 seconds later. This is without an intake and the MAF just sitting there plugged in. I unplugged the MAF hoping to go into limp mode idle but the car idled roughly for 5 seconds then died.

I quickly rigged up an intake out of a brand new pipe I had and connected the MAF and a filter. I tried to start the car 2x but both times it idles for 2 seconds then the RPMs go up fast and I shut down the car before it can redline.

Any idea what is going on?
Some swap details:
  • Have a zenki S14 engine running with a Kouki WS pro harness with a Kouki ECU ( NA 23710 80F00 ) and Kouki MAF (69F01)
  • WS Pro harness has two grounds and they are attached to the intake manifold
  • Thick yellow ground goes from battery tray to chassis Do I need a ground from engine to chassis?
  • Vacuum line from intercooler cold pipe to wastegate actuator (no T)
  • Vacuum line from intake manifold to FPR and plugged T
  • Vacuum line from below throttle body to HKS BOV vacuum line

And what is this?


So, i think I need to:
+ check for boost leaks
+ use washers without plastic on them for the throttle body
+ double check my fuel lines to make sure I have them right

Any help or ideas would be really appreciated!

Last edited by Blixtin; 03-22-2019 at 10:20 AM..
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Old 03-22-2019, 08:49 AM   #2
jedi03
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sounds like fuel lines backwards to me...otherwise go to the basics, need fuel air and spark...check to see if you have fuel pressure, if so pull rail off and let injectors spray while cranking, if that's good pull a coil and ground the plug against the manifold and see if you have spark...to check if air goin in check for obstruction through the whole intake path and if those are all good then start looking at wiring and mechanical problems
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Old 03-22-2019, 10:21 AM   #3
Blixtin
 
Join Date: Mar 2019
Location: Vegas
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I just finished buttoning up my swap yesterday and finally go to turn the key. I purchased it from a well known importer who said it was running and gave good compression numbers. It is an assumption that the engine is good
I used the Heavy Throttle and Speed Academy guides to complete the swap. As well as a ton of searching on this forum.

When I turn the key, all dash stuff seems to turn off although it show the battery light as a warning indicator.

The first few times i tried to start the car, it will start and idles roughly before dying 5 seconds later. This is without an intake and the MAF just sitting there plugged in. I unplugged the MAF hoping to go into limp mode idle but the car idled roughly for 5 seconds then died.

I quickly rigged up an intake out of a brand new pipe I had and connected the MAF and a filter. I tried to start the car 2x but both times it idles for 2 seconds then the RPMs go up fast and I shut down the car before it can redline.

Any idea what is going on?
Some swap details:
  • Have a zenki S14 engine running with a Kouki WS pro harness with a Kouki ECU ( NA 23710 80F00 ) and Kouki MAF (69F01)
  • WS Pro harness has two grounds and they are attached to the intake manifold
  • Thick yellow ground goes from battery tray to chassis Do I need a ground from engine to chassis?
  • Vacuum line from intercooler cold pipe to wastegate actuator (no T)
  • Vacuum line from intake manifold to FPR and plugged T
  • Vacuum line from below throttle body to HKS BOV vacuum line

And what is this?


So, i think I need to:
+ check for boost leaks
+ use washers without plastic on them for the throttle body
+ double check my fuel lines to make sure I have them right

Any help or ideas would be really appreciated!
Blixtin is offline   Reply With Quote
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