AllThingsGravy

My DD is a 92 240sx and it isn't currently running. I searched all over but it seems like people have the same problem but I never see anyone finding the solution.

For a little background of what happened is I took my car to the canyons and I was riding the car pretty hard in 3rd (Red lining at one point, big regret). When I came to a turnout I stopped my car and got out for a bit and came back to turn it on my car would turn on and turn over but it would not hold idle even if I gave it a tiny bit of gas. Yes I do need a new iacv but I dont think that was my main problem. So I got my car down the canyons, stalling at every stop but eventually got it home. I let my car sit for an hour or so and when I restarted it it would hold idle but barely like at 400 rpms and I felt a loss in power. The engine would also surge and drop the idle stalling it while driving it around. At this point I didn't know what to do so later that night when I got home I ran codes from the ecu and got 11, 13 and 34. The next day when I try to start the car the car would crank but not turnover... that's where I am currently trying to get it running.

Since then. first thing I did which was check fuses and if the fuel pump was priming. The fuel pump was priming and fuel pump fuses (and others) were fine none blown. Second was check the spark plugs and there was nothing out of the ordinary. Then I checked to see if the dizzy was giving out spark and it was not, so I got another one and set it to the correct timing (I'm going to double check just to be sure). Still would crank but it would not start. Next thing I did was check to see if the Ignition Coil was sparking and it was not. So I just replaced that and same old same old, no start. I'm stumped and I think it might be the ecu because I unplugged the blue connecter like a goof when trying the diagnose and I might have fried something. I would appreciate any help guys because I refuse to take it to a shop.

KAT-PWR

Didn't replace the parts that the codes indicated? This is off the top of my head
13 is coolant temp sensor (probably causing your problem)
34 is knock sensory
11 (edit) is cam position sensor

__________________
MRP Manufacturing

AllThingsGravy

Well I replaced the Coolant temp sense like 4 months ago, you think I could be bad again? Also I don't think that's stopping the car from running but who knows. Knowing my luck it's probably something simple that I just keep looking over.

KAT-PWR

Make sure the plug for your ignitor/coil is seated properly, i had an intermitten no start/dying and it was the rubber grommet inside the plug was tweaked and it would not allow the connector to seat, slowly working its way up enough to cause an issue.

__________________
MRP Manufacturing

AllThingsGravy

I'm going to go double check things right now, the problem is all the cranking over and no start is killing my battery

kruked

Pull the ignition coil plug off of the distributor and see if you're getting spark from there. If no, then check the ignition coil and the ignitor.

Report back

__________________
I like my bikes how I like my b¡tches...naked!
2014 Triumph Street Triple

AllThingsGravy

Update guys:
I got the car on!! Seemed like it was a bad ignition coil. Only problem is now the car is running terrible, the engine surges could it be from the bad coolant temp sensor or maybe I jumped timing? Bad iacv?

KAT-PWR

replace cts

__________________
MRP Manufacturing

cerealwars

Definitely fix your CTS, that will make it run like shit, and especially make for hard starting. Google 240sx code 13 and you'll find how to test for a bad CTS.

__________________
93 coupe - AutoX/Fun summer daily/Eternal project

kruked

It's a chain and a sprocket brother, not a belt and a gear. The shit didn't jump timing. Maybe your distributor is off if you pulled it out or loosened it up to adjust it.
Start w/ the CTS.

__________________
I like my bikes how I like my b¡tches...naked!
2014 Triumph Street Triple

AllThingsGravy

Update:
Ok so I unplugged and cleaned out the cts and reset the codes. I rechecked the codes and now I'm getting 55 (all is good). But my engine is still bogging and idling at 400... giving it gas and letting off the Throttle nearly stalls my car. I'm stumped. ..

AllThingsGravy

Also it seems like the car wants to warm up everytime I start it up.

Kingtal0n

I feel like everyone is overcomplicating this.

Most common, simplest cause: air leak affecting maf

Do a boost leak test (even without a turbo you can still pressure the plumbing to find leaks) FIRST. Do this FIRST before anything because it is free.

If you dont find any leaks after the maf, then, SOP
Compression test
spark test (it runs so... no problems with ignition are likely. although, I recommend you change your plugs anyways).
Do a tune up

Final, likely cause: fuel pump. check your fuel pressure.

Its got to be an air leak / fuel pressure issue, as the two sole most common causes for the symptoms you describe, especially fits with the sudden onset.

AllThingsGravy

I did a vacuum leak test to see if there was a leak and nothing at all it was a little high though. I'm going to change the iacv soon and see if there is a difference.

racepar1

Check your MAF connection, that seems to be the most likely culprit to the bogging and loss of power. I suppose it could be TPS related, but that's not a very common failure. It's common for the MAF connections to get corroded/dirty/loose and cause idle issues. Clean them out and use a small pick to tighten the connections (bend them closer together). It probably wouldn't hurt to get some MAF cleaner and clean the sensor elements either.

As for your original idle issue I don't think you need to replace a single part to fix that. I'm willing to bet your throttlebody is filthy, CLEAN IT. Also, the idle valves are mounted to the back of the intake plentum. Take the entire idle valve assy off, dis-assemble it, and clean the hell out of it with carb cleaner. Those are the valves that actually control your static idle (AAC/FICD valves). The IACV mounted between the plentum and the head ONLY opens to stop the engine from stalling/bogging when the throttle is releases suddenly. The AAC valve is the REAL idle control valve. The FICD valve opens when the engine is under load from an accessory at idle (A/C...).

This tutorial will make this easier to comprehend...

http://forums.nicoclub.com/iacv-aac-...l-t251133.html

AllThingsGravy

Update again:

I was going to change the iacv and aac but before that I ran the engine to listen for a rod knock and I didn't hear a knock but everytime I would press on the Throttle cable there would be a suction cup noise coming from the egr... I might have spun a bearing also the engine doesn't sound the same.

AllThingsGravy

To update you guys one last time:

Engine is fine no rod knock or spun bearing. The surge was fixed by replacing the iacv and aac and now it's better than before surprisingly. Thanks for everyone's input on this!