Brandon240sx

Can anyone give an estimate to how much life is left on this clutch?? Not really sure how to tell and have no clutch to compare it to.

Ilya

Run it. Once it fails replace it with a $89 special from amazon prime exedy oem replacement.

After the first time you get your transmission onto your car, the next time dropping the tranny will be a 2 hour ordeal. And another 4 hours to put it back on. By your self.

I had the tranny out in my garage in 2 hours by my self. I had it back in the car in 2 hours by bmy self after wrestling it a bit. Next time it will be 30 min each way as I now remember exactly what orientation everything needs to be in.

Don't fear nissan oem bolt on stuff. If you were putting a chevy into a nissan, then I would worry.

Brandon240sx

Got ya, alright sounds good thanks bro.

mechanicalmoron

Clutch life is generally determined by the depth of the rivet heads. There's a spec in the FSM - probably a "was working fine" spec, and a "you can put it back" spec.

I'd put that disc back in. It doesn't look very worn, as long as it's not warped, and the flywheel and pressure plate don't have excessive marking from heat (and nothing you can feel, running your hand over).

If you know anyone who has air tools, or does body work, have them hit the pressure plate and flywheel with a DA. If you can't find the hot spots with your eyes closed, it's good (for this, anyway).

Brandon240sx

I actually do body work and have a da, what grit would you go over it with? And what’s the difference between going over it with a da or getting it resurfaced? Im guessing its basically the same thing, giving the clutch a fresher surface to bite into?

kyral

that looks like a low mile clutch

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derass

Looks really good, close to new. Run it!

For reference, here's an Exedy Stage 1 for SR I took out after about 10,000 km:

mechanicalmoron

Honestly I have no idea what I use, like 40? Pretty rough.


When you get it resurfaced, it's turned or ground, similar to getting rotors turned, providing an entirely new, perfectly level surface. The DA is more like a hone, to hopefully give something better to bite to and break in against, without removing a whole lot of metal. If it's parts that were all used together, you don't need to, if there's no irregularity or damage.

That sort of thing is specified in some service manuals before re-assembly of undamaged parts, but if it's out because of chatter or something, it would be proper to have it resurfaced or replaced.

Judging from that disc, you don't have a lot to worry about.

Brandon240sx

Basically just rough it up with 40 grit so the clutch grabs a little quicker?

Brandon240sx

Awesome thanks bro

Phlip

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mechanicalmoron

The idea is more to provide a neutral new surface for the clutch to wear to, so that you dont have warped parts that cause chatter or rough engagement.

Like honing cylinder walls, to break in piston rings. You want to avoid changing the shape.

derass

Have the flywheel resurfaced at a machine shop. Forget using a sander, that won't leave a flat finish.

The only time you don't need to do this is if the entire flywheel, disc and pressure plate came from the same running car together. These have all been "worn into" each other.

Or use a new flywheel.

mechanicalmoron

^^doesn't understand what a dual action sander does.

Scooby it like a man and put it in already.

derass

Please. It's removing material. The (KA) flywheel has a 0.006" runout tolerance. Hope your eye and hand are calibrated to 0.001" accuracy.

jedi03

lol...met a guy who could do it...anyone else I would say go to the machine shop...he was one in a million and I don't think anyone else is skilled enough...

mechanicalmoron

Flywheels are harder than you give them credit for, and again, go look up what a dual action sander does.