that1guywithans13

Hey guys so I'm piecing together my suspension and wanting to get my alignment done in the next couple of weeks. My setup is this:
● Powered by Max coilovers (8k front/6k rear springs)
● godspeed front sway bar
● aftermarket rear upper control arms
● aftermarket toe arms (rear end)
● aftermarket traction rods (rear end)

I want to set up the car for weekend track/autocross events. I'm planning on running

Drop ~ 2.5 inches

FRONT:
Camber: -2.5°
Caster: 7.0
Toe: 0.0

REAR:
Camber: -1.5*
Toe: 1/8 total

The question I had is can I get the front end to align to those specs or do I need aftermarket tie rods and tension rods? I'm really low on funds do to being on disability at the moment so if I can get along without spending more cash that'd be great!

Thanks in advance guys

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that1guywithans13

Also will be running stock ka. Car is roughly 200 pounds lighter and and running 17s on 235/40 federal rsr all around

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ITS ALL FUN AND GAMES TILL THE FLYING MONKEYS ATTACK..

bmaddock

You will be able to get those alignment specs. I'd suggest posting on a local forum and meeting someone who works at a shop that can work with you on what you want.

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tacotacotaco

On the front youll be able to get those specs. On the rear you might need toe arms.

I run in the Maxxis Corner3 Motorsports Nissan Challenge Series

https://www.facebook.com/groups/NissanChallenge/

https://www.facebook.com/NissanChallenge

You can jump in there for more local input and support

that1guywithans13

I do have tear adjustable toe and traction arms. Do those specs look good for cornering? I like late braking and accelerating through mid turn with minimal oversteer.

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ITS ALL FUN AND GAMES TILL THE FLYING MONKEYS ATTACK..

Croustibat

I am using the same tyres and dimensions (perfect wheel + tyre diameter equivalent for stock), but with a 300hp ca18det. They could easily cope with at least 50 more hp, so stock KA is not going to embarass them... I think you could do with skinnier tyres, they are going to rob a lot of power.

I suggest you do whatever you can to remove bump steer and toe steer first. Static geometry makes no sense unless the dynamics are correct. If your toe gain is like 5mm per cm of travel, you will never control the car correctly.

From experience, you cannot remove toe steer (at the back) without some binding in the rear if you use less than -2° camber (-1.5° is "less than -2°" in that figure).

This is corrected by setting rear tension rod longer than stock. You have to find the correct length by yourself, it depends on how much the car is lowered. Put the car in the air, unbolt the rear ARB, remove coilover, make the suspension go up and down from its central position, and trace the toe curve. Add a couple millimeters and do it again until you get what you want (i like slight toe in on compression, nearly no toe change from a bit of compression to full droop)

You need aftermarket steering rack rod ENDS to correct some bump steer (at the front), but that depends on the rules you have to follow. Honestly i suggest a front drop knuckles and arms set. As much as you can correct the rear suspension setup by changing arms length, you cannot do that at the front.

If you don't, you don't want a lot of caster with a shorter tension rod and the stock FLCA as the bush will bind. The best way to set caster is with 3D coilover tops anyway. I'd say that bush is the first to replace with a ball joint. If it is stock, it must he shot anyway. Same goes for the tension rod.

I would add some camber front. I think i was running -2.5° last event (i have no arb but 10/8 springs) and my front tyres are more used on the exterior.

Toe settings: i like a little toe in rear (total approx 4 to 8mm) and a little toe out front, to get stability under braking and reduce understeer on corner entry, but that is up to the driver's way of driving, and how much he worked on correcting toe changes on suspension movements.

that1guywithans13

Wow awesome responses I really appreciate it guys! And as for bump steer thank for the tip definitely be using that during install. I'm going to use the specs I originally planned as a starting point in tweaking yo my preferences and to tune the car to my driving style. As for rsr in 235/40 r17 on stock ka, I may have over compensated, we'll see how it plays out for the next time I may run 215/40 or 225/45 if I can't break the tires loose on these!

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ITS ALL FUN AND GAMES TILL THE FLYING MONKEYS ATTACK..

Croustibat

I can hardly break traction with the 235s (got an S15 torsen, that helps tremendously), except when i floor it on corner exit in 2nd gear, right when the boost comes on. Straight line, i get to break traction when I floor it on 1st gear only and i am not careful ... on the streets. Can't say on track, i never went 1st speed there.

Honestly, if you break traction with them, your suspension tuning is bad somewhere

Croustibat

I can hardly break traction with the 235s (got an S15 torsen, that helps tremendously), except when i floor it on corner exit in 2nd gear, right when the boost comes on. Straight line, i get to break traction when I floor it on 1st gear only and i am not careful ... on the streets. Can't say on track, i never went 1st speed there.

Honestly, if you break traction with them, your suspension tuning is bad somewhere

Tyler_240

NVM....shoudl have read OP better....