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Old 03-07-2011, 04:04 PM   #1
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What size rims do I need for autoXing my S14

So I'm going to autoX my S14 this summer and am currently getting it ready for this. I would like to get a set of enkei RPF1's. I'm just not sure what size to get them in.

I think I should run at leased a 285 in the rear, if not more. I think I should get 17x10 with 285's for the rear and 17x9 with 255 for the front.

Can anyone give me advice? Should I step up to 18's? I dont care about looks, but want them to DRIVE well! Should I go wider? Offset suggestions?

Thanks in advance for the help!
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Old 03-07-2011, 04:11 PM   #2
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Old 03-07-2011, 04:52 PM   #3
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22"
this. All the way

don't upgrade your suspension either, tire to wheel well contact will reduce and and all body roll, so why dish out for suspension anyways?
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Old 03-07-2011, 04:55 PM   #4
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It's been a while since I auto-x'd and maybe the rules have changed, but it the wheel and tire size dependent on the class you are planning on running in?
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Old 03-07-2011, 04:56 PM   #5
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18's are too heavy for auto-x. id stick with 17's. you also have to look at the rules for each class.. Some classes dont let you run past a certain treadwidth and 285 might put you up there and you might not have other supporting mods for the class... It also depends how competitive you want to be. If its your first season you could run 255 all around or 245/275 stagger. but if your competitive and actually max out grip get wider tires... You might also want to consider non stagger wheels but 17x9+ should be good.
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Old 03-07-2011, 05:47 PM   #6
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the smallest wheel you can go. less rotational mass. usprung weight.
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Old 03-07-2011, 06:09 PM   #7
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Chrisw View Post
So I'm going to autoX my S14 this summer and am currently getting it ready for this. I would like to get a set of enkei RPF1's. I'm just not sure what size to get them in.
What class are you planning on running in? If your car is stock, run it on stock wheels with some cheap grippy tires. If you're boosted, you'll probably want some R-compound tires. Depending on what mods you have and how committed to the sport you are (or plan to be), choices get more complex.

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I think I should run at leased a 285 in the rear, if not more. I think I should get 17x10 with 285's for the rear and 17x9 with 255 for the front.
I usually suggest running a square setup to keep costs down and make tuning easier. With around 250whp I was running 285 Hoosier A6's on all 4 corners. Looking at sizes available in the grippier street tires, I'd suggest running a 255 or 265 all around.

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Can anyone give me advice? Should I step up to 18's? I dont care about looks, but want them to DRIVE well! Should I go wider? Offset suggestions?

Thanks in advance for the help!
The only reason I went with 18's is due to the 285/30R18 Hoosiers having a lower rolling diameter than anything else in that general range (and also that I haven't paid for a set of Hoosiers in a while thanks to their contingency program). If I were running street tires, I'd try to stick with 17's.

Either way, good luck!
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Old 03-07-2011, 06:15 PM   #8
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I am competeing is X prepared. My car is not even close to stock anymore. It's got a LOT of power and is gutted. I have a set of rims that are 17x8(F) and 17x9(R). They are three piece Advan rims. I am trying to figure out if I will need new rims for the season, and if so... what sizes?

Since I'm in X prepared I will be driving on Hoosier A6's...
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Old 03-07-2011, 06:29 PM   #9
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IIRC Jim Bennett's XP car was on 17's.


I forgot how wide he went, but they look as though they could use a wider rim, so my guess would be 275 up front and 315 in back on what look like 17x9 and 17x10.5 wheels, although you could probably shoot him a message on the NRR forum (don't think he's on here).

My car is on a 285/ 315 stagger, although honestly I think it might've been faster overall on 285's all around. Since I've built up more for ProSolo, I needed the 315's mainly for the drag launch and heat management.


Both Bennett's XP car and my SM car have trophied for the past 2 years (I think 5 or 6 trophies between both cars) at SCCA Solo Nationals (mine also having a Pro Solo season championship win).
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Old 03-07-2011, 08:00 PM   #10
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^Those cars looks SO sweet! So square wheels is really the way to go?? I may end up running my staggered set this season just to get out there and learn. There is more time to be lost due to my lack of skill rather then my rims sizes.. :P

If I'm running 17x8(F) and 17x9(R).. what tire sizes should I run on them then?
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Old 03-07-2011, 09:14 PM   #11
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17x9 you can either run 255 or 265. maybe 275 also lol.
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Old 03-07-2011, 10:02 PM   #12
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i havent been one at least for two years. i was running 17x9s in front and 17x10s in the rear with 245's Azenis all around. just make sure you suspension is not that stiff like mine. make it softer. especially when youre hitting tight turns. i had a hard time taking them cause i was running stance coilovers with 9kg in the front and 7kg in the rears.
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Old 03-08-2011, 07:15 PM   #13
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Quote:
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^Those cars looks SO sweet! So square wheels is really the way to go?? I may end up running my staggered set this season just to get out there and learn. There is more time to be lost due to my lack of skill rather then my rims sizes.. :P

If I'm running 17x8(F) and 17x9(R).. what tire sizes should I run on them then?
If not running ProSolo, I'd say square is better. The newer northwestern SM 240's are running square setups and it seems to work well for them. Although, if your wheels are already staggered, I'd just fit the tires to the wheels and go from there.

I'd definitely invest more in seat time than modding the car. It might be a good idea to just run the wheels you have for now and pick up some 245's for up front and 275's for the rear. That setup shouldn't be too bad if your car is light.


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i havent been one at least for two years. i was running 17x9s in front and 17x10s in the rear with 245's Azenis all around. just make sure you suspension is not that stiff like mine. make it softer. especially when youre hitting tight turns. i had a hard time taking them cause i was running stance coilovers with 9kg in the front and 7kg in the rears.
For what it's worth: I run the equivalent of 12.5kg/mm springs up front and 7kg/mm springs in back on my SM car. My fiancee's ST car (S13) has 11kg front 8kg rear springs. Both cars are on Koni race shocks.
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Old 03-09-2011, 12:32 PM   #14
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If not running ProSolo, I'd say square is better. The newer northwestern SM 240's are running square setups and it seems to work well for them. Although, if your wheels are already staggered, I'd just fit the tires to the wheels and go from there.

I'd definitely invest more in seat time than modding the car. It might be a good idea to just run the wheels you have for now and pick up some 245's for up front and 275's for the rear. That setup shouldn't be too bad if your car is light.



For what it's worth: I run the equivalent of 12.5kg/mm springs up front and 7kg/mm springs in back on my SM car. My fiancee's ST car (S13) has 11kg front 8kg rear springs. Both cars are on Koni race shocks.

youre running on koni shocks thats youre able to go through those tight turns. i've notice that my buddies were able to take those tight turns and have faster laps then me when i realized they were running on springs and kyb's. i might go that route for autocrossing and keep the coilovers for time-attack or whatever i decide unless i decide to pick up some DG-5s
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Old 03-10-2011, 10:18 PM   #15
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18's will give you a wider selection of sidewall heights, etc. However, prices for tires are going to be significantly more expensive (think another $100-200 per tire or there abouts).

Run what you can afford. Keep in mind hoosiers don't last that long, especially if you are not driving smoothly - happens a lot when you are starting out.

If you are just getting started in autocrossing, it really doesn't matter what you are running, because there is more to learn in the driver than the car.

That being said, you can't really go wrong w/ either a square or stagger setup, 17's or 18's, etc. It all depends on your driving style & how else you set up your car.
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Old 03-10-2011, 11:09 PM   #16
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from my research the kumho racing slicks are almost..as good as hoosiers in terms of perfromance and grip but last about twice as long. seems like a good route to go until you get more seat time until you can make best use of the hoosiers. sorry if i sound retarded or am off base fuckin vodka
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Old 03-11-2011, 06:52 AM   #17
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I'd just as soon try to find used tires before buying a new set of V710's or A6's just to learn on. There are plenty of half-life tires available at dirt-cheap to free if you can get in touch with the competitive racers. My first few sets of R-compound tires were all bought for around $100 a set, or picked up for free.

I've kind of went to the other side of that fence, as after learning to drive and dialing in everything until I had a nationally competitive car (and driver), I virtually can't get rid of tires fast enough. In order to stay competitive nationally you pretty much need fresh tires for every major race. The result of that is I virtually gave away a dozen 285/30R18's last year, and still have a few 315's that I'm not sure what to do with. Of course, if you're near a roadcourse then the availability of single-heat cycle tires skyrockets.

Also, to comment on Hoosier vs Kumho, the Hoosiers are notably wider than the Kumhos. In changing from V710's to A6's of the same size, I ended up needing 5mm spacers to clear my struts.
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Old 03-11-2011, 07:20 AM   #18
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youre running on koni shocks thats youre able to go through those tight turns. i've notice that my buddies were able to take those tight turns and have faster laps then me when i realized they were running on springs and kyb's. i might go that route for autocrossing and keep the coilovers for time-attack or whatever i decide unless i decide to pick up some DG-5s
If your using all of the tire's grip potential, you'll be experiencing the same amount of Gs and rolling reguardless if its a turn on the track or a tighter turn on a cone course.

If you guys are running different tires, different roll bars, different chassis weights, different alignment specs and ride heights; then you really can't compare the two cars.
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Old 03-18-2011, 11:54 PM   #19
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the smallest wheel you can go. less rotational mass. usprung weight.
What he said...as long as you have the rim width to run good tire sizes. Depends on set-up and tire compound.
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Old 04-04-2011, 12:47 PM   #20
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Ya. Well thats what I ended up doing. I got some tires second hand from a hard ore racer guy in town. He was actually really nice, gave me a good deal and I now have three full sets of different rubber to try and and figure out what I'll like!
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