DemonSlayer

Recently dropped my sr into the car. Went smooth but I am having overheating problems now. I have an overheating issue. I replaced the water pump and put in the ISIS thermostat. I have an ISIS aluminum rad, the electric fans, circuit sport fan controller. Jacked front of car up, put heater on full blast, ran car. It got to operating temp and we hit the throttle to 3500 ish rpm for about 5 min and not a single bubble. I know I have an exhaust leak on the manifold to turbo part as we noticed it was super lose with no gasket. We just tightened it down temporarily because I am upgrading soon. The coolant is also weak, we will be strengthening it up probably on sunday. But as I drive, the temp slowly climbs until it's pegged at max hot and when I stop, the coolant is boiling in the radiator. We pressurized and we can't see any leaks. I've got a buddy saying it may be head gasket which I hope not because that's a bit of work... Seems running AC accelerates the over heating issue

Next, I am looking at the ISIS RS3871 turbo kit off enjuku. So the turbo, manifold, turbo lines, 02 housing, enthalpy tune, z32 maf, 550cc five0 injectors, wideband 02 sensor, and a new FPR. Wondering what I should tune my boost to. I am looking at using car mostly as DD with some spunk. Need something reliable, especially because I am about to move and need to drive 1350 miles. I am losing my shop and car guy (my dad) because I'm moving out of state. So while I know a bit about cars and my 240, he is a wizard on mostly older cars. New stuff is a bit, well, new to him, but we learning. I was thinking 18 psi? Stock bottom end, have walboro 255 and isis FMIC.

Thanks for the help guys! Pic of car cus why not?

http://i.imgur.com/aA72rcr.jpg

jorge1190

You sure that thermostat is opening? That's the cheapest and first thing to try with an OEM (not OE but OEM from nissan) thermostat. $15 at the dealer.

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96 240sx S13 SR20 521 WHP 405 TQ

Croustibat

Stop buying cheap, crap parts. Problems (mostly) solved.

I'd say your thermostat does not open and/or your fan does not kick in, and those cheap crap parts may have cost you a warped head & blown HG.

Now get a nissan thermostat, a koyo or CSF radiator, a garett or EFR turbo, and you might get away wit the isis FMIC, although it won't be optimal, it could work enough - if it fits, which will surely be hilarious.

DemonSlayer

If they're shit, why would enjuku promote them and everyone review them so well? The fmic fit perfectly, the fans definitely come on, the radiator is big with really good welds. I've also got their full exhaust and everything fit right and it sounds great. The reviews on their turbo are really good as well... Was hoping for some diagnostic tips

Kingtal0n

look inside the radiator and watch the coolant flow with the cap open first, engine idling. stick your finger in there and feel it get hot and begin to flow. it should be pretty obvious that is flowing, or not.

Then flip on the fans and it should hold temperature. Use a real temp gauge not the dummy cluster gauge.

If the water is flowing, fans are going, and temp keeps rising, you have a problem. Its either that the fans are not doing their job (not mounted correctly perhaps or pushing the wrong direction / wired wrong) or that the engine is producing excessive heat for some reason (bad head gasket or wrong ignition timing)

DemonSlayer

It seems to be iffy. Ran up to work and it was great. Went out to lunch, them on my way home it was getting hot fast. Seems having ac on exasperates the problem. Now that I think about it, I don't think I put the ac condenser fan back on? I'll have to check and I'll do what you recommend. It doesn't seem to overheat at idle at all, just when driving around. I idled it for a good long time looking for air bubbles and it never went above normal operating temp. Fans would kick in and off just fine. I stuck hand down there and they are pulling a lot of air.

jr_ss

First off, ISIS parts are garbage. They are knock off's of knock off's and have absolutely zero R&D behind their product. I wouldn't be surprised if you continue to have issues over heating running those components. I'd start with the thermostat and radiator cap.


Running the A/C is going to heat soak your radiator more. The condenser dissipates heat when air is blown through it, which blows right into your radiator. You need to have another fan blowing at all times with the A/C running.


Did you install the jiggle valve on the top of the thermostat?

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My SR20VET

cotbu

You mean a manufacturer, can make a part identical to a part that's already made and maybe change materials and location of some things and it not be as good as the oem part or part already created? Ridiculous! What do that want to do, make money or something?

(Sarcastic or Rhetorical take your pic)
Op here's a tip, fix the current issues before you do your next upgrade, all the info in this thread is good, but has been discussed a bazilvian times.

Sent from a Highly Tuned Note 4.5!!!

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LoverTechnologies "Half Broken Things!"

daryl337

Not gonna lie - my isis fans work fine.

But I went with a quality radiator.

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Croustibat

Because people are idiots who want to believe spare change can turn a rubbish car in a race car, and there will always be someone to sell them something for that spare change. That is easy money.

You will find hugely positive reviews of everything because these same idiots have egos higher than mountains and will NEVER tell they have been ripped off. Did you ever see an isis coilover review with attained G numbers on a skidpad, or speed on a reference corner ? Or on bumpy surface ? Of course you didn't, because all these reviews tell is "they look good, i can slam the car to the ground with them, so that means they must handle very well". The same goes for the turbo, people write how good the product look, but will never tell it blew a couple month later, because by the time the reviews are closed, they have not installed the turbo.

Isis puts its name on blank branded products, just like a lot of vendors. Open a parts shop on ebay or anywhere on the planet, and you will get a call from these manufacturers offering your own brand of product for cheap, usually in less than 2 weeks...


I know you won't understand that because you ARE the typical buyer. You MAY understand this in a time frame going from 6 months to 2 years, when you get tired of these.

This message is addressed to naive buyers that could be tempted into buying that crap. If you want your car to be down all the time, and all over the place when they are not, then by all means buy crap like isis or emusa ... if you want your car to run correctly, get better quality parts. You will end up buying them anyway, when you get tired of having your car down, so just skip them.

I too bought crap parts, because they were cheap. then i spent 2 years fixing things that were supposed to work. emusa suspension arms that had play, would not fit, could be bend my hand, with ball joints that weared in 20 miles. 17/16 "remanufactured BMC" that leaked from the front brake seal and the reservoir. coilovers with such bad hydraulics that i nearly crashed. Gauges and sensors that would lose 10°C with electic load on the alternator. Fuel pump that dies in a month. Double cooling fans that could not create enough pressure to draw air through the radiator. rear antiroll bar way too stiff. The list goes on and on.

Now my car is sorted. And i wish someone had told me this before i wasted money and time on it.