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Old 05-07-2013, 08:03 PM   #1
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400hp long distance SR20

Always loved silvias and the SR20 but i'm finally getting to build my own engine now. my plan is to get 400hp and then i'm going to drive it from washington to virginia. since i'm new to this I just wanna know what mods and precautions should i take since i'll be driving it long distances and for long periods of times. i dont want anything to blow or over heat and i know theres gonna be some days where i just open it up.
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Old 05-07-2013, 08:12 PM   #2
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big radiator, Gteck fan blade on a new fan clutch with the complete fan shroud. a big aero bumper to allow more airflow to the radiator. make sure you run a normal OEM t-stat for better fuel economy (versus a low temp nismo stat).. make sure your tune is leaner on part throttle / light throttle for better cruise AFR's..

with all of the above, i'd say drive the car for at least 500 miles before attempting a hardcore cross country run.. give it some daily action, and then give it a good 70-100 mile one way trip.. if it makes it 100 miles with zero overheating / issues, it should be able to make it 1000
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Old 05-08-2013, 12:08 AM   #3
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Chaluska View Post
big radiator, Gteck fan blade on a new fan clutch with the complete fan shroud. a big aero bumper to allow more airflow to the radiator. make sure you run a normal OEM t-stat for better fuel economy (versus a low temp nismo stat).. make sure your tune is leaner on part throttle / light throttle for better cruise AFR's..

with all of the above, i'd say drive the car for at least 500 miles before attempting a hardcore cross country run.. give it some daily action, and then give it a good 70-100 mile one way trip.. if it makes it 100 miles with zero overheating / issues, it should be able to make it 1000
OEM would be better than nismo? i know the nismo mainly for how it responded at lower temps than oem
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Old 05-08-2013, 12:23 AM   #4
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Dude if it drives fine, and doesn't overheat, it will drive like a stock car if you are out of boost. It's probably like 130HP when the turbo isn't in action.

I'd say if you can drive 50 miles no heating issues when it's hot outside, you're good.
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Old 05-08-2013, 04:07 AM   #5
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Its funny how almost every new person to Nissans thinks J-Spec engine are not ment for DD.

Believe it or not but Nissan designed these cars/Engines as DD's Not drift/Track cars.

as long as you use QUALITY parts then you shouldn't have any reliability issues.

A good radiator/Fan and a Nismo Thermo and you'll be golden for temp wise


When your engine can produce 400hp, if your cruising in 5th in Neg boost the engine is not making 400hp.
So durring that operation HP is not a factor of concern.
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Old 05-08-2013, 05:56 AM   #6
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just change everything related to cooling, hoses etc, all vacuum hoses, all hoses in general! check your steering boots, your driveshaft boots, alignment, always carry a spare, oil, gearbox oil, coolant, jack, tools etc. oh and a fire extinguisher! you never know! (i may say all that but i just did a 500km trip on a brand new engine with nothing!...and as i was up on the mountain i said to myself, shit, i ve taken nothing with me!)
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Old 05-08-2013, 05:58 AM   #7
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Save your money and go FJ20

it's a better engine in every possible way, you dont need to build a fj to hold 400hp IT WILL hold 400hp for a VERY VERY long time.
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Old 05-08-2013, 05:59 AM   #8
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Break it in well first before going on a long drive, only takes a few days of driving in traffic for about 500-1000 miles
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Old 05-08-2013, 06:08 AM   #9
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Quote:
Originally Posted by zombiewolf513 View Post
Break it in well first before going on a long drive, only takes a few days of driving in traffic for about 500-1000 miles
why are you seating rings per FSM?


i let engine warm up, take it to the race track and LOAD the engine because when you load the engine rings FULLY expand a pull in 1st 2nd 3rd and 4th will get it done for 25 miles. drain oil drive soft the rest of the 75 miles break in's done, enjoy.

i promise it does NOT take 1,000 miles to break in a engine.
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Old 05-08-2013, 06:26 AM   #10
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Because the FSM has yet to steer me wrong.

I didnt say dont load it, but im in the middle of a break in right now. Boost around, just domt bounce it off the rev limiter or hold it at the same rpm for hours on end, and rev match downshift everytime you stop
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Old 05-08-2013, 07:02 AM   #11
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Sileighty_85 View Post
When your engine can produce 400hp, if your cruising in 5th in Neg boost the engine is not making 400hp.
So durring that operation HP is not a factor of concern.
for some reason nobody understands this lol. for some reason everyone believes just cuz an engine makes xxx power, that means it's xxx power right off idle lol
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Old 05-08-2013, 07:05 AM   #12
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Quote:
Originally Posted by OrangeVirus1 View Post
for some reason nobody understands this lol. for some reason everyone believes just cuz an engine makes xxx power, that means it's xxx power right off idle lol
I'm driving my stock ka (minus a header and exhaust) 240 back from Texas to California for the fourth time on Saturday, haven't really had any problems before besides the ignition coil overheating. I put a koyo in it a couple days ago just to be safe.. Anyways I'm going to build a ~300 whp ish sr this summer and will be driving that back at the end of summer. I'm looking forward to the better mileage and smoother running engine lol.
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Old 05-08-2013, 07:18 AM   #13
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Chaluska View Post
big radiator, Gteck fan blade on a new fan clutch with the complete fan shroud. a big aero bumper to allow more airflow to the radiator. make sure you run a normal OEM t-stat for better fuel economy (versus a low temp nismo stat).. make sure your tune is leaner on part throttle / light throttle for better cruise AFR's..

with all of the above, i'd say drive the car for at least 500 miles before attempting a hardcore cross country run.. give it some daily action, and then give it a good 70-100 mile one way trip.. if it makes it 100 miles with zero overheating / issues, it should be able to make it 1000
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Old 05-08-2013, 07:26 AM   #14
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I have driven my 98 S14 w/S15 swap from where I live in SW Florida to Kansas City and back, Seaside Hts NJ and back, Little Rock and back. All over the last few months. I don't see why people are scared to drive these cars long distance.
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Old 05-08-2013, 07:48 AM   #15
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Dude if it drives fine, and doesn't overheat, it will drive like a stock car if you are out of boost
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Old 05-08-2013, 07:59 AM   #16
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Quote:
Originally Posted by zombiewolf513 View Post
Because the FSM has yet to steer me wrong.

I didnt say dont load it, but im in the middle of a break in right now. Boost around, just domt bounce it off the rev limiter or hold it at the same rpm for hours on end, and rev match downshift everytime you stop
the FSM IS WRONG when it come to engine break in.

since the late 70's nissan and a bunch of other people dyno break in their cars before they release it. they go WOT on the dyno 1st, till redline! 2nd!, 3rd, 4th, 5th, and 6th, (if there is one)

they give it to a test driver to make sure it is a properly functioning car. EVEN HARLEY breaks in their engines the same way. and people who dont know anything about cars by new cars, the motor is already broken in.. they need to do break in this way because a defective engine will not make it past the dyno, a engine with improper clearances will not make it past 25 miles.

I have broken my all my engines the hard way and HAVE ALWAYS had a STRONG sealing very healthy engine. my last VG30ET was broken in this way and everyone tells me it's extremely torquey and very drivable for the mods i have (which it should be laggy). motor pulls a constant 170psi across all the cylinder.
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Old 05-08-2013, 08:16 AM   #17
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Drove my 360whp sr from Florida to Tennessee and back. No problems other than a minor coolant leak from the stupid throttle body loop.
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Old 05-08-2013, 08:22 AM   #18
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Quote:
Originally Posted by S12 Drifter View Post
why are you seating rings per FSM?


i let engine warm up, take it to the race track and LOAD the engine because when you load the engine rings FULLY expand a pull in 1st 2nd 3rd and 4th will get it done for 25 miles. drain oil drive soft the rest of the 75 miles break in's done, enjoy.

i promise it does NOT take 1,000 miles to break in a engine.
Agreed.
How do you think we break in motors for track only cars. I can tell you it's not by putting around in it for a 1000 miles.
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Old 05-08-2013, 08:49 AM   #19
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^ yes but breaking in a race motor is different from breaking in an everyday use motor...
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Old 05-08-2013, 08:57 AM   #20
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Quote:
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^ yes but breaking in a race motor is different from breaking in an everyday use motor...
how is it different please explain to me. if you break in a race motor and use it on the street daily drive it how will it be unreliable if it's only using 70hp out of the 800 or 900hp is can make when taken to the extreme? as a matter of fact it will be more reliable on the street because it does not see the stresses it's suppose to see.

if you fully build a engine and just street drive it that motor will last a VERY long time because it never sees stress it's suppose to in other words the MOTOR WILL NEVER be the problem.

your argument about soft break in is nil.

ford, chevy, harley dyno break in their engines now, EVERYONE does before it leaves the factory.

how does the GT-R get broken in? GOING AND REDLINING through every gear before it leaves the factory...

OH NO YOUR SUPPOSE TO DO A SOFT BREAK IT! YOUR GOING TO DECREASE THE LIFE OF YOUR MOTOR NOW?!?!?!
please know what your talking about before you open your mouth, it would be nice to not deal with dumbasses on a daily basis.
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Old 05-08-2013, 08:58 AM   #21
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So whats wrong with driving 600 miles in stop and go again?
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Old 05-08-2013, 08:59 AM   #22
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I drove a few SR's cross country with no problems. 30+mpg is rad as fuck. I don't dick around with the car when I'm in the middle of no where because just like any motor ever, they can break. Just do you simple maintenance stuff on it, make sure its not leaking anywhere, and watch out for pot holes.

SRs are good to go!
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Old 05-08-2013, 09:00 AM   #23
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Quote:
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^ yes but breaking in a race motor is different from breaking in an everyday use motor...
You're wrong. Clearances may be different depending on your race goals but break in is the same. You have a very small window to break in a motor and set those rings. If its not done in the first 15-20 miles it won't ever be done. Don't be fooled by old fashion thinking.
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Old 05-08-2013, 09:05 AM   #24
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Quote:
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So whats wrong with driving 600 miles in stop and go again?
this

Quote:
If its not done in the first 15-20 miles it won't ever be done. Don't be fooled by old fashion thinking.
learn to ACTUALLY build a engine.. dont follow blind sheep.
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Old 05-08-2013, 09:08 AM   #25
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I think you people ARE GETTING clutch break in procedure mixed with engine break in procedure (race clutch and street clutch are different and have different break in methods. )

clutch is stop and go for about 500-1,000 miles depending on clutch but you can rag on it a little bit to break in the engine.
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Old 05-08-2013, 09:14 AM   #26
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Best way to break in a motor on the street is hard bursts of acceleration and very important deceleration in 2nd and 3rd. Seeing as you typically can't just run through gears to red line on the street like you can on the dyno just do short bursts.
You don't want to cruise around for a few hundred miles with no load on the engine which in turn puts no pressure on the rings. This is completely wrong.
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Old 05-08-2013, 09:20 AM   #27
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If you build your shit right you can drive it anywhere. I have driven my Gvr4 from SW Florida to Norwalk Ohio for the DSM shoot out. Raced it all weekend and drove it home all while getting alittle over 30 mpg. Car was making mid 400awhp at the time. Used to drive it to organized street races all over Fl years ago even when it was at 650 awhp. Don't skimp on the maintenance and it will be fine. Any car can have a alternator go out at any time so have AAA.
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Old 05-08-2013, 09:21 AM   #28
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Okay dude, i never said anything about the first 20 or so miles not being the most important. Nor did I say anything else contrary to what you're saying. I was referring to driving a lot of local miles as a precaution so shit like this doesnt go unchecked while you hypnotize out on the highway over a 1000 mile road trip:

Quote:
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Drove my 360whp sr from Florida to Tennessee and back. No problems other than a minor coolant leak from the stupid throttle body loop.
Go look at my build thread.
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Old 05-08-2013, 09:24 AM   #29
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Best way to break in a motor on the street is hard bursts of acceleration and very important deceleration in 2nd and 3rd. Seeing as you typically can't just run through gears to red line on the street like you can on the dyno just do short bursts.
You don't want to cruise around for a few hundred miles with no load on the engine which in turn puts no pressure on the rings. This is completely wrong.
you sir know what you are talking about. i would not hesitate to buy a engine from you if i had a need.
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Old 05-08-2013, 09:32 AM   #30
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you sir know what you are talking about. i would not hesitate to buy a engine from you if i had a need.
Thank you. I have been playing with cars for 20 years. There's always more to learn about this hobby and newer and better ways to do things. I hate wiring but engines and tuning are something I thoroughly enjoy.
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