|
Home | Rules & Guidelines | Register | Member Rides | FAQ | Members List | Social Groups | Calendar | Mark Forums Read |
Tech Talk Technical Discussion About The Nissan 240SX and Nissan Z Cars |
|
Thread Tools | Display Modes |
12-27-2006, 06:05 PM | #1 |
Leaky Injector
Join Date: Oct 2006
Location: san diego
Age: 37
Posts: 84
Trader Rating: (0)
Feedback Score: 0 reviews
|
i broke my subframe stud HELP!
in attempting to install subframe spacers in my s13 i broke one of the studs to the subframe. the problem is, i believe its welded to the shell as i cannot get to the other end of it.
pics are worth a thousand cursing words if anyone has any idea how to fix this i would greatly appreciate it
__________________
96 Mitsubishi Eclipse sold 92 RHD converted Integra current 02 Honda Accord V6 current 89 Nissan 240sx Coupe current YES my other cars a HONDA |
Sponsored Links |
12-27-2006, 06:12 PM | #2 |
Post Whore!
Join Date: Jun 2004
Location: Long Beach, CA
Posts: 4,103
Trader Rating: (4)
Feedback Score: 4 reviews
|
cut the section out, put a new thread pictch stud through, but it will have to be longer. Sandwich the stud in by two 6"x6" plates, like installing a rollcage. You can probably bolt in, but welding is alot better.
Yes curse words plenty.
__________________
[email protected] |
12-27-2006, 06:13 PM | #3 |
Zilvia Member
Join Date: Feb 2005
Location: Toronto, ON
Age: 41
Posts: 153
Trader Rating: (0)
Feedback Score: 0 reviews
|
the stud isn't actually welded to the body. It is pressed in and you can take it out. However, it's a bitch and you would have to cut a little piece of metal out from under your rear seats to take the bolt out.
A friend of mine was in the same situation as you and he basically hammered the stud out (with a LOT of force). You could also weld in a new stud in the same spot, but you would have to cut that one out first. Either way you will have to completely take the subframe out to do all this. That is, if you want to fix this properly. |
12-27-2006, 06:16 PM | #4 |
Post Whore!
Join Date: Jun 2004
Location: Long Beach, CA
Posts: 4,103
Trader Rating: (4)
Feedback Score: 4 reviews
|
had bad luck repressing these in, they just spun when attempting to reinstall the nut.
__________________
[email protected] |
12-27-2006, 07:09 PM | #6 |
Post Whore!
Join Date: Jun 2004
Location: Long Beach, CA
Posts: 4,103
Trader Rating: (4)
Feedback Score: 4 reviews
|
that is a good one, but then i would be worried about how well of a tap you are going to get out of it, because id/od issue. If you are pimp shit, you could probably fill it with tig or mig, then redrill, then retap, that might come out clean.
__________________
[email protected] |
12-27-2006, 07:28 PM | #7 |
Zilvia Addict
|
haha that's cool. i know someone with a s13 and rhd DA. thot you were him but looks like your in san deezy. yea try drilling out the stud with a reverse drill bit (not sure if its threaded in there to do that....) and get a tap and die set. shit works wonders when i strip the theads on some bolts...
__________________
|
12-27-2006, 09:34 PM | #8 |
Leaky Injector
Join Date: Oct 2006
Location: san diego
Age: 37
Posts: 84
Trader Rating: (0)
Feedback Score: 0 reviews
|
PHP Code:
anyhow this is where i stand after a couple of hours and a whole lotta sweet talking i had to drill a 2" hole to gain acces to the top of the stud. its FINALLY out! that thing is huge (thats what she said)... i hope i can get a replacment at the stealership i hope noone else has to go through the pain in the ass i had to. if anyone could get me a part number on the part that would be great. i have no idea how to find a parts list/diagram
__________________
96 Mitsubishi Eclipse sold 92 RHD converted Integra current 02 Honda Accord V6 current 89 Nissan 240sx Coupe current YES my other cars a HONDA |
12-27-2006, 09:55 PM | #9 |
Nissanaholic!
Join Date: Oct 2006
Location: Philaburbia
Age: 43
Posts: 2,137
Trader Rating: (4)
Feedback Score: 4 reviews
|
i would press it in and nail er with the mig so she dont turn - and go back to town - get a 2in rubber plug like some trucks have in their beds for the holes the chassis harness goes through - or somethin from home depot to cover that hole
or if u wanna be all martha stewart u can like cut a peice of foam or a hard sponge to put in there :P |
12-27-2006, 09:58 PM | #10 |
Zilvia Addict
|
Find a user by the name of Justified 2.4. He works at a dealership here in So Cal. He helps out with all kinds of oem replacement parts. Glad to see you got this sorted out without too much trouble.
|
06-03-2007, 04:48 PM | #11 |
If anyone knows how this repair went or if that stud is available from Nissan, please let me know ASAP. I broke the very same bolt tonight and I'm searching for solutions... I'm pretty pissed off but I guess it could be worse. Luckly I have a spare beater Buick for times like this, but it still sucks ass... My shells so clean and I haven't had any problems with thing seizing thus far, so I can't believe this happened...
Thanks, Jordan |
|
06-03-2007, 06:16 PM | #12 |
Leaky Injector
Join Date: Jun 2006
Location: Trenton, New Jersey
Posts: 127
Trader Rating: (3)
Feedback Score: 3 reviews
|
cut the stud right after it tapers to a thread. pick up and 3/8 - 16 tap. drill out the entire stud straight down the center and tap it. go to the local hardware store and pick up a 3/8 harden bolt. when your looking for bolts your going to find that you cant get one that is entirely threaded. so you have to drill some clearence into the stuff to make up for the part of the bolt that isn't threaded.. if this makes any sense.
i launch at 4.5 grand at the track and have not had a problem yet.. |
06-03-2007, 07:10 PM | #13 |
That sounds a lot harder than getting the replacement stud and pressing it in... Can you not order a replacement stud? Also, wouldn't pressing the old bold out and welding a new bolt in work?
|
|
06-03-2007, 08:04 PM | #14 |
Go to Carfiche.com:
http://carfiche.com/fiche009/ Plug in 4-E-13 See if that looks like what you're after. I can't be sure. Here are the numbers I got: 75660-42F00 75661-42F00 75650-42F00 -Royce |
|
06-04-2007, 09:56 AM | #16 |
You have to click on the 'down' to scroll to the prefix number listed on the diagram.
Click on the drawing to enlarge the diagram. The rear studs appear to be prefix number 74870. Then scroll down until you find 74870. To the right will be the complete part #. Click on the page to enlarge for easier reading. (Click a second time for max zoom). -Royce |
|
06-04-2007, 12:02 PM | #17 |
Premium Member
|
that worked for me too...
__________________
http://www.thenismoshop.com |
06-04-2007, 12:28 PM | #18 |
Well, I called the dealer and it would appear that they don't just sell the stud alone, either that or they can't find it or something.... So that pretty much sucks, I guess the plan at this point is to knock the old stud out, find a nice grade 8 bolt and put that in... but I have a few questions...
What's the huge advantage to drilling and tapping the hole for the new bolt? Why cant I just get something in the same length and pitch and put that in, then just weld it at the top? |
|
06-04-2007, 12:55 PM | #19 |
Leaky Injector
|
Good luck with your endeavors. I was in a similar predicament awhile back with a hatchback shell I was building up. In the end I found it not worth the effort and sold the thing off and moved on to a better coupe shell.
__________________
|
06-04-2007, 01:03 PM | #20 |
Premium Member
|
there is no advantage... if you can still get something in the same length and pitch and put that in, then just weld it at the top... then do it...
mine completely broke and screwed up the hole which is why i had to tap a bigger hole and use a thicker stud...
__________________
http://www.thenismoshop.com |
06-04-2007, 01:16 PM | #21 | |
Quote:
Dude, why do people feel the need to say shit like that? If you're not going to help me than don't talk... My shells clean as hell, one bolt broke... It happens... The fact that you gave up because one bolt broke up shows a lot about your car knowledge... |
||
06-04-2007, 01:58 PM | #22 | |
Leaky Injector
|
Quote:
The hatchback shell I had was from Mass. and had terrible corrosion issues to begin with and in the strip down process to renew the chassis the bolt broke and in a sense broke the camel's back as well. I realize you're angry but I was actually encouraging you to continue; sorry if you didn't get it.
__________________
|
|
06-04-2007, 02:24 PM | #25 |
I haven't actually gotten mine out yet... I'm kinda worried about that part as I'm sure it's stuck pretty good. My Dad had a good idea though; get a punch or bolt about the same size as the stud, then then put it up inside the bushing on the stud... then use a jack and push the stud up that way... use the weight of the car to force it up... That might work.
|
|
06-04-2007, 03:42 PM | #30 |
Premium Member
|
wd40 - impact gun set to full... which is how i broke one of my studs...
__________________
http://www.thenismoshop.com |
Bookmarks |
Thread Tools | |
Display Modes | |
|
|