Chaluska

From what i understand, a lot of verts have the same probem.. i got it down to bare metal to see how bad it was... FML

BTW, this is the upper windshield body area...

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Jersthecool

Wow sorry to see I absolutely hate finding things like that.

mr_eh

yikes. If it makes you feel any better I haven't addressed rust on my 14 on the top passenger side of the window, no idea how bad the damage could possibly be if any at all, and this is after dumping 45k~ into the car. godspeed

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My 96 S14 | 501whp SOLD

Chaluska

yup... well fortunately the verts structural support is entirely under the chassis on the frame rail.. so no matter how i repair the rust, even if i just cosmetically fill and repair the holes, it wont cause crack from stress...

and here in houston tx, i don't have to worry about rust (typically).. but ASC is freaking moronic and doesnt paint oem metal when they slice it open..

im kind of glad, becuase when dissassembling everything, i found a few things that can be addressed. a few broken panels / cracks that can all be filled in and re-painted/covered..

just trying to prep the chassis for this...

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z32boy

Just fill in the holes with a mig and grind smooth!

s13silvia_R

Wow that sucks, I live in Canada and the previous owner who own the vert before me didn't take care of the wind shield surround and it's pretty badly rusted. I am going to address to it once I take the front wind shield off.

!Zar!

More reason not to own a vert.

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s14boy

i that a 41 or 45 their either way good luck man and you shoul send me some pictures when your done i would love to see the fitment.

Chaluska

its a VH45 out of a 94 q45.

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drift freaq

Sucks to see that. Though it does look fixable but the question is if rust there were else? Oh and nice engine man. Good luck with the rust issue.

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nurvcom

man you making me scared of my vert now

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Ripping up the Highway since 03

ixfxi

hahaha :-)

xoxide

I concur.


This didnt really need a thread, nobody really cares about your rusted windshield support. Nice motor though!

future

California cars >

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nurvcom

I fixxed

it maybe a down side but i owned 2 vert and i love them (more fun to drift with top down

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Ripping up the Highway since 03

bc.

yeah, verts are sick when done right. I had a cage and s14SR in mine and drifting with the top down was super fun. I just sold it though :/

You gonna start a build thread OP?

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ixfxi

i was thinking


how dope this thread would be if he's like

"what a bad thing to find half way into the build - that it took me this long to realize i've been working on a vert"

sil80d

Rust sucks ass. I have rot on the front corner of the drivers side rear wheel well. Also in one spot on the frame rail. Caused by a leaky master cylinder and a plugged drain. I had the guy that did my paint and body work cut and patch a new corner of the wheel well in and then cut and fab a patch for the frame rail. He did a spectacular job. That bit that you have could be fixed to where you would never be able to tell. Good luck

Chaluska

lol, well aside from the rust on the window / front roof trim area, its been pretty gravy so far.

I havent made a build thread, because i have just been dumping pictures into my blog.. once i get a little further, i will make a thread. but right now its kinda like.. save up a month, buy a part, slap it on.. wait another month, save up, buy another part.. etc etc..

no point in making a thread that will be bumped once a month for that.. lol

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Chaluska

and if i had any advise to ANYONE thinking of swapping in a VH.. consider getting a different engine lol

if i woud have just went with an SR20, id be driving right now..

im in 5000$, and the engine isnt even in the car yet

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fliprayzin240sx

What made you decide to pick such an old engine?

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nurvcom

DAM after this post i looked at my vert and I got RUST .... noooooooooooooooooooooooooo.....

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Ripping up the Highway since 03

Dorifto-san

Fiberglass is your new best friend... just lay down some sheets and sand/prime/paint and you're all good!

satal95

I have the same rusted area on my vert. Are you using the same window trim or were you able ro find replacements

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Chaluska

Any research on the VH45 and you will realize this thing was HEAVILY over engineered from the factory..

- Forged steel crankshaft.
- Forged steel connecting rods.
- 6 Bolt main bearing caps with studs.
- Full-length main bearing girdle.
- Lightweight, floating pistons with molybdenum coating.
- Sodium-filled exhaust valves.
- Cross-flow cooling system.
- Hydraulic lash adjusters.
- Single-row silent timing chain.
- Coil-on-plug ignition system.
- Lifter buckets ride directly on cams to reduce friction.
- Redline of 6900 rpm, Or 7400 RPM's with a modified ECU.
- Compression ratio of 10.2 to 1.
- Bore of 93 mm and stroke of 82.7 mm.

The 4.5 L VH45DE featured variable valve timing, also known as VTC, from 1990 until 1995. This was due to the "Gentleman's Agreement", requiring all imports to produce no more than 280 hp. Nissan got around this by publishing the hp rating without VTC, meaning it's actual power rating is closer to 310 hp and 330 lb·ft. of torque

i chose the VH because of its high engineering stand point. the LS1 is an OLD OUTDATED tech from the 1930's, using pushrods (not intended for high-revving) the VH uses DOHC with VTC, 6 bolt mains, all aluminum BLOCK AND HEADS, and its all NISSAN

by the time i get the NICO ecu, headers and exhaust, im hoping to be right at around 300 whp..

All this, plus a lightweight flywheel, aluminum driveshaft, it should be a pretty quick revver too!

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SomeoneWhoIsntMe

turns out pushrods are actually newer tech than OHC. just saying.

hOngsterr

i dont see on that list you have that says aluminum, not shitting on you just pointing it out there.

also wouldnt a VQ35/HR suffice, close to 300 hp already

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Chaluska

touche... top fuel dragsters run pushrods, and they make thousands of HP.

I just wanted to keep everything all nissan.

I agree with the VQ comment as well, the price would have increased significantly over doing a VH though.. wiring is a nightmare for a the VQ.. all the anti-theft stuff has to be bypassed, OR, you have to run an AEM EMS. not to mention the engine and trans alone would be almost 3000$, and your assuming you will get an ECU, wiring harness, ignitors, blah blah blah.. and you wont have to do anything to the engine.. belts, spark plugs, water pump, sensors, Clutch etc etc add headers, and mounts, and shifter, ignition bypass.... and your going to be well over $7500 in just engine alone

If i wanted to spend $15,000 on a VQ ride, i would just buy a Z33.

and sorry, i may have understated myself, the Block and heads are both aluminum. the internals are not.. an aluminum crank would be sick for revving, but i dont think it has the same ability to handle pressure as steel

I didnt want to turn this into an engine arguement guys, this thread is about rust SUCKING, and american standard convertibles failing at doing a good job that lasts a long time.

even more so than that, this is about those little suprises you find halfway through your build..

like a subframe stud is missing from the frame... or you find that there is rust that has been painted over.. or 3" thick bondo covering the entire quarter panel.

that kind of crap

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ixfxi

its not about accidentally buying a vert when you should've gotten a coupe or hatch????


:-)

DJ-of-E

I concur if you gonna get 300hp only, the VQ35DE would suffice.

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