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S Chassis Technical discussion related to the S Chassis such as the S12, S13, S14, and S15. |
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12-18-2012, 06:01 PM | #1 |
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Is this blown?
I was putting my cluster back in my car and I heard a little pop and everything on the cluster stopped functioning (rpm, speed display, etc.). It's a digital display single cam cluster if that makes any difference. I'm 99% sure it's blown I just want others to confirm.
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12-18-2012, 06:18 PM | #3 |
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I have now learned the value of disconnecting your battery even if "it's going to take 5 minutes."
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12-18-2012, 06:21 PM | #4 |
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Hard to tell from the picture, but it looks like it may have been repaired there before. Just looks like solder on the circuit track!?!
Anyway, should not be to tricky to use a jumper wire and bypass the burn't out track, just as long as thats the only problem with the cluster. |
12-18-2012, 11:53 PM | #6 |
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If you didn't test that trace and find out why it burnt out or if it's supposed to have 12v or whatever it has. You might what to add a fuse in that repair line, maybe a 5-10 for testing you do what it to break if it get's to hot. Or have an access port that you can shoot your extinguisher in.
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12-19-2012, 12:09 AM | #7 | |
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Or go get another at a junk yard.
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12-19-2012, 12:34 PM | #8 |
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I think it blew because my lights were on while I was plugging the cluster back in (I wanted to make sure everything was working) and when I went to bolt the steering column back up with the two 12mm bolts I believe one of them touched the cluster and made it blow.
As amazing as this suggestion sounds, if I can repair the cluster for 5¢ worth of solder why would I go and buy a different cluster? |
12-19-2012, 01:04 PM | #9 | |
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Because that is kinda a janky fix for a part that would cost a dollar or two at a junk yard. BTW I am talking about the circuit board/ribbon not the whole cluster. If you know it was an accident and something else bad is not going to blow it out again why not just fix it the right way.
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12-19-2012, 01:47 PM | #11 |
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Lights still work it's the actual function of the tachometer, speedometer that doesn't work. The needles per say.
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12-19-2012, 01:50 PM | #12 |
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That's what I was going to suggest. Solder an external lead/wire.
If that doesn't work, you either didn't solder it right or something else fried too.
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12-19-2012, 02:09 PM | #13 |
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I used a multi-meter and it read in the vicinity of 12-13 volts. I checked all the related points on that specific circuit track and they all show signs of life so I assume I did it correctly if not then I will try and find a replacement circuit board. Anyone know if I need one specifically for a single cam digital cluster or are all single cam clusters the same? (US spec of course).
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12-19-2012, 09:35 PM | #14 |
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External lead idea seemed to have done the trick! Everything is back to normal.
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