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Chat General Discussion About The Nissan 240SX and Nissan Z Cars |
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12-14-2011, 08:00 AM | #601 |
Zilvia FREAK!
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had to stare at it crooknecked,.....but looks like ur on the right track.....lol
id just buy the Auto-Rod Controls panel. ARC-Auto Rod Controls 8000D - ARC Flat Touch Switch Panels - Overview - SummitRacing.com then all that work is done for you,. and you can still wire your car to your hearts desire
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12-14-2011, 06:50 PM | #604 |
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You're doing it backwards. Run the wire from whatever device or connector it's coming from (assuming you're using an existing harness) and then crimp an end on the wire. Crimping an end on a pigtail off your relays/dist block just ensures an extra solder joint.
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12-14-2011, 08:05 PM | #605 | |
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12-15-2011, 11:30 AM | #606 | |
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12-15-2011, 01:33 PM | #608 | |
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12-15-2011, 03:38 PM | #609 | ||
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i still need to wire up my gauges and havent tapped into the ecu yet, put ill post the pins and what not, anyone know which pin to power up ecu of the top of their head? should i wire up a 14 pin oem connector ? but i left extra relays incase i need future power it will be wires up, so still not done, any critique would help -16an hoses
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NEED Bolt kits for your car? Last edited by godrifttoday; 12-15-2011 at 05:21 PM.. |
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12-15-2011, 06:23 PM | #611 | |
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Nissan 240sx - ChaseBays.com
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12-15-2011, 07:45 PM | #613 | |
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12-15-2011, 09:52 PM | #614 | |
Zilvia Member
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12-19-2011, 05:34 AM | #615 |
Zilvia Junkie
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A fuse especially used for the brake light?
Useless, you should use the left brake light with the left lightning, and do the same with the right circuit. You should use two different/separate and secured circuit for left and right light relay command, because if you do like your draw, if your main fuse for relays burn, you have no light at all, no fuel pump, no FAN, no ignition, you can imagine the dramatical issue by night in the middle of nowhere...... For the alternator and starter, YES, you MUST use FUSES!!!! For every electrical systems, at the beginning of them, and the nearest of the battery, fuse, fuse, fuse!!!! after the battery, a 75A fuse, for general security, and after that, fuse box. Here's a fast schem' that i made : I didi'nt make the brake light modification. |
12-19-2011, 11:35 AM | #616 |
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^
I see that actually make sense, the reason I'm using 85 straight to 12 volt it just seems easier to wire, since they relas only need I think.5 volts to activate that's why I had ask if I needed a resistor, I could also just tap into the ecu to activate the relays... But if not I will run them off 2 separate circuits. I actually altered my set up. For the break lights the 2 lights are wired together and ran on a fuse, and as for the battery I don't have a 75 fuse I have a 80 amp breaker. Thanks for the new idea! I'll post pics later. Here is how it's coming out so far
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12-19-2011, 11:50 AM | #617 | |
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12-19-2011, 01:34 PM | #619 |
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12v relays stop being reliable at around 9v. I think he's referring to the 500ma (.5 amp) draw when the coil closes the armature.
80a breaker on the battery (before the starter) will trip every time you crank the car for more than a second.
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12-19-2011, 04:05 PM | #621 |
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From my understanding relays don't need constant power to get activated, but how I'm doing it I'm using 12 volts what side resistor should I use to limit the voltage to the relays? So for the battery to the starter no fuse correct? Everything else yes? I need to look at the fsm again lol
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12-19-2011, 04:06 PM | #622 | |
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12-20-2011, 10:35 AM | #624 |
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Relays need constant voltage to stay energized. It is not like a light switch, where you flip it once, and it stays there. You apply voltage to a relay, it energizes, and as soon as you remove the voltage, it de-energizes.
Do not wire in any resistor to change the voltage going to the relays. The relays are designed to operate at the standard automotive 12-14 volts.
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12-20-2011, 12:48 PM | #625 | |
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Quote:
A relay has two parts, a coil (between pins 85 and 86) and an armature (between pins 30, 87, and 87a). A small current (at a set voltage, in this case 12v) across the coil activates the armature, which has very large contacts to conduct a large amount of current (usually 30A or 40A). If you use a resistor inline with the coil, you'll drop the voltage that the coil sees, and it won't have the electromotive force to effectively close the armature. Short version: Don't limit voltage to the coil. Like I said, 12v relays stop opening and closing effectively at about 9v.
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12-20-2011, 01:04 PM | #626 |
Zilvia Junkie
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the command part of the relay is a magnet system (as injector) if voltage in it is not strong enough, it will not 'close' the circuit, and so, let the current goes to the element you want to work.
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12-20-2011, 02:18 PM | #627 |
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I get it how a relay works, I was just needed to be clear since I got a bit confused once u said relays are not reliable 9v... And no I don't think your being harsh. Its far better to ask, than not too..
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12-20-2011, 03:40 PM | #628 |
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... so when you deliver switched power to the relay to energize the coil, it needs to be switched +12V. No resistor inline with your switched hot, switched ground, constant hot, constant ground, whatever. No resistors.
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