Beejis60

Ya, IDK... They're all engineers and shit on that board so I would imagine they knew about the regulator on the banjo bolt. But that's just my speculation.

xoxide

Peace (or anyone else)- Why didnt you run a PS cooler on your setup after removing the factory hardline "cooling loop"? Is it neccessary to run one, or are the chances of boiling the fluid low?

5280VertDET

I don't plan on getting the fluid hot enough. No heavy driving, maybe spirited back roads, but thats it.

SMALL UPDATE:

I haven't installed it yet, but the "Econo-Fits" for the PS lines, to small to fit around the hose that it claims. Shitty.

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S13 Vert | SR | PE1420 | 5-Speed | 15x9.5 - 0 |

codyace

The way PeaceOnesxWai is actually pretty slick, and I kick myself for not thinking of doing it that way myself.

If you weld directly to the rack's upper housing, you'll melt the upper seal. If you take the upper housing off, and then remove the upper seal, you ruin it...and no one sells a replacement seal for it.

...i'm no engineer, I'm a slop!

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Beejis60

And there it is.

Busta

Yep, just like Cody said. You can't weld a fitting the rack n pinion upper housing without disassembling it, decontaminating the fuck out of it and good luck finding that seal. You have to tig it witch isn't as accessible to everybody and I do trust steel fittings much more for AN(JIC) high pressure stuff. The best would be if you are one or are friends with a machinist, you could get both fittings machined completely from scratch in one piece with proper specs. That just wasn't an option anymore without spending big bucks to have it done by the crooks around here. Peaceone's solution and mine are almost the same, but I prefer to not weld on the pipe itself

180sxs13

sorry to wake up dead.

can someone confirm if i can do this nice setup and cancel the pressure restriction (factory banjo fitting) ??

PeaceOnesxWai

Woah havent been in this thread for awhile now..

I used flare tube nut for fuel lines before, its a pain and the tube usually cracks when you reach around -6AN.. so im a little iffy on doing that method. Plus it wouldnt be a smart idea to weld a fuel line
I chose to do the weld-on cause 1. its realiable and 2. its cheap.

I am running one but for the time i was doing my guide I hadnt order it yet. But for concerns, I would be perfectly fine without the cooler on DDs and light spirit driving. Im confident my AN line set up could handle alot more then DOHC PS line so I have no worries about it blowing.

Specify "cancel the pressure restriction"? Like removing the banjo bolt and adding AN fittings?

180sxs13

Sorry. was little off (didn't get noticed) !.
Anyway, yes deleting the banjo and the built in regulator valve as guys call it.

silviaNC

I bought the xrp ps hose and earls ps fitting and having a hell of a time and bruced hands trying to put fittings on the hose. Seems almost imposssible. Any easy way to install the fittings? thanks for help?

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dhnedgj

Sick setup. I want to run this setup minus the cooler for now jus cuz I hate the oem lines.

Beejis60

You cannot use earls PS hose ends on XRP hose.

silviaNC

Oh well return time. Just ordered the xpr fittings.

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Beejis60

XRP is good shit. IDK what type of hose ends are for their PS lines, but they have a lot of crimped style fittings, aka you need to buy the tools (numerous thousands of dollars), or send them to XRP to have them crimp it for you, or if you order, you can specify the length and they'll make it for you so you don't have to double handle everything...

That is if it's a crimp end.

silviaNC

Had to take xrp hose and end fittings to a shop to get them in. Here is my setup almost complete

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Beejis60

Looks like you have an LS swap? If so, who made your high-pressure line?

silviaNC

Is an rb26 and bought xrp high pressure hose and fittings as i stated on post. Low pressure and return are pro lite nylon hose

Beejis60

I don't check old posts, but ya, looks good. Looks similar to an LS swap PS line I've seen before and being that your pan looked like a sikky pan, I just assumed...

InsTanCeZ

I hurd Z33 PS cooler is pretty much a bolt in affair. Anyone have more info on this?

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Beejis60

IDK what you mean by bolt on affair. It looks like any el cheapo shitty cooler you can buy at like vato zone and napa. I bought a cheap aluminum finned afco one from speedway. Easy peasy.

abcdefg123

Updates to this thread? New pictures?

*brett*

does anyone know the size of the tube coming out of the rack? i dont have access to a welder but i see they make a flare fitting adapter that might work

Martino

Might be resurrecting a dead question but I've noticed my power steering isn't necessarily the quickest anymore since AN lines and cooler.

Once I'm rolling everything is fine, but if I try to make a really sharp movement I feel a very slight bit of restriction and than everything is smooth.

When the car is idle it's hard as shit to turn sometimes.

Any solutions or ideas to this?

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turbo2nr

Sorry to bump an old thread...

I have the ISIS ps kit and my fitting on the rack leaks.

I've looked through this thread and cant find an exact link to the fitting i need to go into the rack.

this is the fitting in question:


will this fitting work? :
http://www.jegs.com/i/Earl%26%23039%...91954/10002/-1

if not can someone please link me to the fitting I need.

Thanks

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s14 kouki ka-t

slow92

It is one of these two but I can't remember which goes to which off the top of my head. Obviously if you are running a larger AN hose than you would just need to find the correct part number for the it along with the correct thread pitch for the rack.

Pump High Pressure 16x1.5 Crush Washer -6AN 9919DFJERL
Rack Return 16x1.5 O ringed to -6AN 991955ERL

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turbo2nr

Thanks its my High side fitting that is leaking.

Is the earl's fitting long enough seal correctly in the rack. As in the previous pages was saying something about the fittings being to short or something.

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s14 kouki ka-t

driver11324

Cant stop the Dway

5280VertDET

Page back or so, had this for over a year with no leaks.

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S13 Vert | SR | PE1420 | 5-Speed | 15x9.5 - 0 |

PoorMans180SX

This is called "pump catch", and it's usually caused by not enough flow from the pump during movements that need it (such as quick movements or fast transitions). I've been trying to dial this out for a while now. I have a restrictor in my KA pump that is working perfectly with the giant reservoir I have, but I have yet to install my cooler, so I'm not sure how that affects things. It's a pain haha.

Are you still running the banjo bolt and cast outlet on your pump? That has a built in restrictor that you may need to remove with a decent size cooler. There are -6 adapters for that if you need ALL the flow, or restrictors of various sizes. You basically have to experiment haha.

For everyone else: I've been using a standard steel adapter fitting in my high pressure side with no leaks for a while now. No sealant, just tightened it good and tight...

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joshchewuhh

Okay so I recently upgraded my entire PS system and I wanted to revise the parts list as the parts in the OP didn't work for me.

Little back round about my car: Completely stock KA24DE with all emissions attached, OEM airbox, silvia front end. I wanted to upgrade my PS system because the fluid would boil over super quick and make my steering feel like shit.

I got all my parts from Anplumbing.com. Please note I went with all black Earls plumbing but XRP will work just fine you just have to cross reference part numbers.

967110ERL -10 A.N. Male Weld Fitting. Steel x1 (this will be welded onto the bottom of your Stock PS reservoir and feed into the actual pump)

967106ERL -6 A.N. Male Weld Fitting. Steel x1 (This will be welded onto the return side of the reservoir)

Option A:
997110ERL -10 A.N. Male Weld-on. Aluminum x1 (make sure to get the aluminum one as the return line from the pump is aluminum on KA24DE/SR, however the KAE is steel)

Option B: I just happened to have a turbo oil return outlet fitting that actually fit on the steering pump. I just had to use a round file to shave some of the aluminum down where the screws attached so it would fit straight on the pump) Make sure to replace the little O-Ring that is on the pump so it doesn't leak.
http://www.jegs.com/i/Vibrant-Perfor...ductId=3151061

Just like the OP I decided to go with Push style fittings for my low pressure.

AT700167ERL 3/8 -6 Straight Super Stock Hose End. Aluminum. Black Hard Anodized x2 (I used these on my 15 row Setrab cooler)

If you're going to get a setrab make sure you also get two of these as they fit into the cooler so you're able to run the straight push on fittings listed above.
M22AN6 -6 22mm X 1.50 SETRAB Oil Cooler Adapter. 22mm x 1.5 to -6. x2

AT709167ERL 3/8 -6 90 Deg. Super Stock Hose End. Aluminum x2 (One goes onto the -6 weld on fitting for the cooler and the other goes onto the low pressure fitting on the steering rack)

AT709111ERL 5/8 -10 90 Deg. Super Stock Hose End. Aluminum x1 This will go onto the turbo oil return fitting I used for the steering pump.

AT704611ERL 5/8 -10 45 Deg. Super Stock Hose End. Aluminum x1 (This will attach to the weld on fitting at the bottom of the reservoir)

For my high pressure I decided to go with the whale tuned premade kit. Super high quality.
http://www.whalentuned.com/collectio...ering-assembly

Now for the fittings on the steering high/low pressure. Everyone has problems with it leaking. I decided to go with the all star fittings mentioned previously in this thread.

ALL48211- Power Steering Adapter, Steel, Zinc Plated, -6 AN Male to 14mm x 1.50 Inverted Flare x1 (This goes onto the high pressure side. I didn't lathe these down, I just used some high quality thread sealant and it doesn't leak at all)

ALL48210- Power Steering Adapter, Steel, Zinc Plated, -6 AN Male to 16mm x 1.50 Inverted Flare x1 (Low pressure side on the steering rack)

780006ERL- 3/8 Push-On Hose. Black. Use Earl's Push-On Hose Ends. 6ft (This is for the reservoir to the return line and from the low pressure steering rack fitting to the oil cooler)

780010ERL -5/8 Push-On Hose. Black. Use Earl's Push-On Hose Ends. 2ft (This is for the -10 fittings from the reservoir to the steering pump)

Make sure the low pressure line from the rack goes to the left side of the cooler, and returns back into the return side of the reservoir.

As for fluid I used redline fully synthetic racing ATF. I bought 2 quarts and that was plenty.
http://www.frsport.com/Redline-30304...t_p_14855.html

I did test this setup at a drift event and I had zero leaks, and no boiling fluid. Make sure you bleed the air bubbles completely from the system.

I hope this made sense as this is my first write up. I will upload pics when I have free time.

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