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Tech Talk Technical Discussion About The Nissan 240SX and Nissan Z Cars |
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12-09-2014, 12:14 AM | #1 |
Leaky Injector
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Turbo Inlet and Outlet Studs/Nuts Question
Hey Zilvia!
I am in the final stretch of rebuilding my sr20det and I know it is a common problem for the turbo inlet studs to break lose because of the high temperatures when the car is running. I don't have all the original hardware for the turbo inlet so I was wondering if this stud (http://www.frsport.com/FRSPORT-Stud-...ud_p_3095.html) will work? They advertise for the turbo outlet stud and nut combo only but I was wondering if I could use this stud to replace my original stud for the turbo inlet? They look pretty much the same to me. If someone can clear this up for me , it would be greatly appreciated! tHANK you edit : I have a t25 turbo |
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12-09-2014, 11:01 AM | #2 |
Post Whore!
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you can find them at your local hardware store.
here's the size of the doubled sided studs 8mm x 1.25 thread pitch then buy copper locking nuts. these copper nuts don't slip like the regular steel nuts.
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12-10-2014, 11:05 AM | #4 |
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you don't need to bring it to a machinist. just just spray PB Blaster on the studs and then wait for 15-30 minutes. then use a vise grip and twist them out.
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12-10-2014, 11:18 AM | #6 |
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sorry I don't remember but i'll check on it when I get home since I bought new ones. you can bring the manifold to the hardware store and figure it out. my guess is the double sided stud would be M10x1.5.
you can measure the diameter of the stud and count the thread pitch to get an accurate measurement. it should be either standard or metric. here's a quick link how to measure http://home.jtan.com/~joe/KIAT/fig_1b.jpg
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12-10-2014, 11:25 AM | #8 |
Post Whore!
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thanks dude^^^^^^^
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12-10-2014, 11:33 AM | #9 |
Zilvia Addict
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Studs for manifold to turbo AND turbo to outlet are M8 x 1.25 x 35 (9 total if you stud them all)
May be beneficial for you to pick up some extras and some 38 and 40 lengths just in case. ALSO! Stage 8 fasteners has nuts for this application. I have used em, others are using them, never once a single problem. ----Case closed. |
12-10-2014, 02:35 PM | #10 |
Leaky Injector
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Last question!! Is there a way of threading in the studs so that they will be secure? Do you just hand tighten the stud then tighten the nut onto the stud?
Thanks for all the feedback! @Bleakley Yeah buddy!! I was reading up on another thread and I also purchased the stage 8's . |
12-10-2014, 02:37 PM | #11 |
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That's all you do. Tighten the stud, then attach the nut.
To get studs out, tight two nuts against each other and unthread the lower one against the upper to pull it out. Also, I much prefer to use a nut and lock washer over the distortion head stuff on the turbine outlet. The deformed nuts will usually unthread the studs, too, whereas a nut and lock washer won't. |
12-10-2014, 04:39 PM | #12 | |
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Quote:
Best to use (for me) was a flare nut wrench on one side, and a regular one on the other. (When butting the nuts up against each other on the stud) |
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12-10-2014, 05:20 PM | #13 |
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I had success with these on the turbo thus far. Kind of nice on the down pipe too. I cant tell you how many times I have pulled my turbo off due to stock nuts coming loose. I have heard of people running them without the stock locking tabs.
http://www.frsport.com/FRSPORT-8mm-n...ut_p_3096.html |
12-10-2014, 05:28 PM | #14 |
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Those are way spendy for what you get.
These are cheaper: http://www.ecstuning.com/Search/Site..._Nut/ES251523/ I run stage 8 stuff in one car, but just the copper lock nuts in the other. Most important piece to keep the nuts night is running the downpipe hanger that kicks out to the transmission mount. |
12-10-2014, 07:11 PM | #15 |
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Stage 8 does the job EVERY time and are reusable, I strongly encourage them over anything else.
On another note, I installed an Apexi N1 dual catback and a Circuit Sports 3" downpipe and MAN was it a BITCH to get that hanger on. Exhaust still seems like it hangs low as hell. Don't really like it... |
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