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Old 01-14-2013, 11:24 AM   #1
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which rb to choose???

Hello guys, I'm a newbie here haha.. I jus recently purchased a 96 240sx and I'm looking to drop nd rb in it, now when I was looking at some Japanese engine depots, I saw they had a few different ones. I saw one that I haven't seen before but looks like a good engine to swap.. It's an rb25det hr34 er34 neo6??? Can someone help me out with some info on this? Please give me some opinions on which Rb I should do and what all I need.

Thanks for the help.


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Old 01-14-2013, 11:46 AM   #2
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Plan to spend about 4-5k on your swap if you want it done right. Not including cost of get it put in. You can get some of that money back when you sell your stock motor. I have a RB25 series I in my car. The Neo motors come from the R34 GTS-T. The difference between these and mine is the coilpacks on the Neo's have built in igniters. Plus the Neo's do not have the crappy ceramic wheel in the turbo. Meaning you can't go over 12lbs of boost without blowing your turbo. Whether you decide series I or II remember to change your oil pump, water pump and timing belt before you drop it in. If you can do the gaskets. RB's are pricey to work on but if you do it all of at once it will save you the headache later. Good luck.
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Old 01-14-2013, 11:54 AM   #3
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wow. thats it? thats all you got moco?

Ive got a neo. yes it does have built in coilpacks but so does the s2. Rumors say that it has a slightly stronger bottom end and the oil pump issues were nearly wiped out by 2000 in the er34s meaning they have the full sized crank snouts. The neo Head is were the more noticable differences are. Solid lifters from the factory, better head flow and the cam specs are much different which is why neos are thought to have a slightly different sound than older. I would know. I dont have stock cams. other differences are obviously a slightly better turbo. r34 electronics are completely different. ECUs, Cam angle sensors, again, coils. The transmissions are a pull type disengagement. I picked up mind for 1300 without trans with splitfire coilpacks. The deals are out there and if you can snag one, do it. Newer motor, revised components. Im definitely happy.
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Old 01-14-2013, 12:00 PM   #4
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^^^Only kicker why I didnt go Neo is parts availability. S1 and S2 have alot more aftermarket support over the Neo. I absolutely hate the over the engine intake manifold.
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Old 01-14-2013, 12:09 PM   #5
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yeah me too. and yes your right. standalones etc etc. i put a greddy intake manifold, an s2 IACV and some rx7 550 injectors with a JGY rail. the manifolds fit if your willing to redo your fuel setup. once that was done, a lot of s1 s2 stuff bolted on and worked.
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Old 01-14-2013, 12:11 PM   #6
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yeah me too. and yes your right. standalones etc etc. i put a greddy intake manifold, an s2 IACV and some rx7 550 injectors with a JGY rail. the manifolds fit if your willing to redo your fuel setup. once that was done, a lot of s1 s2 stuff bolted on and worked.
I thought the intake manifold flange pattern is different? I know the fuel system is different since S1/S2 is still side feed while the Neo's are top fed.
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Old 01-14-2013, 01:04 PM   #7
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negative. perfect match. the IACVs are different. greddy manifolds are made to fit either rb25 sidefeed or rb20/26 top feed. there are two sets of bolt patterns for fuel rails. the neo uses some weird new denso style and doesnt match up at all. finding the right o rings was the most challenging part. standard honda top feeds are what you need though. i dont A LOT of research before i went down that road. if you dont believe me its in my build thread. haha
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Old 01-14-2013, 01:13 PM   #8
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with rx7 injectors, top mount setup



with s2 side feed setup
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Old 01-14-2013, 03:55 PM   #9
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Thanks guys for your inputs.. Yea im here on jersey nd theres a depot in North Jersey that's sells an rb25det hr34 er34 neo6 for 1300 long block.. And if I do get this I will be sure jus to replace what I can while it's out.. Also it still bolts up to the stocks trans or do I have to buy a different one?


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Old 01-14-2013, 04:04 PM   #10
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Any rb trans


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Old 01-17-2013, 01:14 PM   #11
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http://zilvia.net/f/engine-tech/90376-rb-faq.html

Z32 trans with RB25 bell housing and some work will work too.

RB25 Trans Mated with Z32 Trans
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Old 01-25-2013, 07:37 AM   #12
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Pedobear Run Kids View Post
http://zilvia.net/f/engine-tech/90376-rb-faq.html

Z32 trans with RB25 bell housing and some work will work too.

RB25 Trans Mated with Z32 Trans
Yes but, diff driveshaft will be needed as well as a shifter!



Quote:
Originally Posted by fliprayzin240sx View Post
I thought the intake manifold flange pattern is different? I know the fuel system is different since S1/S2 is still side feed while the Neo's are top fed.
Neo has Rb26 internals, Solid lifters, bigger lift cams as well as rb26 cfm head flow. Same motor but has vvt and one turbo. I've seen 600whp on stock block neo's.. rb25 500whp easy with the right bolt on's and management system.
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Old 01-25-2013, 07:51 AM   #13
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if a neo had rb26 internals. it would be an rb26. the rods and crank are interchangable but the pistons are completely different.
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Old 01-25-2013, 07:56 AM   #14
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ok better words, it has the strength of an rb26 for half the cost
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Old 01-25-2013, 07:57 AM   #15
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if a neo had rb26 internals. it would be an rb26. the rods and crank are interchangable but the pistons are completely different.
Yep. How could it have the same internals but different displacement. Although I thought it was the rods are different? If you look at rb26 rods they are a lot thicker near the piston compared to rb25. I've owned both.motors I should really know this

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Old 01-25-2013, 08:03 AM   #16
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The Neo has RB26 rods and N1 oil pump, solid lifters, plus longer inlet manifold runners (for better midrange torque) and VTC, it makes it better in many ways than the RB26 and the missing 100cc

The NEO is listed factory at 280ps (276hp), which is the same as the factory listing of the GTR, but that really doesn't mean anything, because the figures were all listed so they wouldn't be higher then 280, even though the output is.


^Straight from the guys that build 1000+hp Rb's on a daily base....
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Old 01-25-2013, 08:11 AM   #17
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do you own a neo? the rods are thicker than standard 25, like the 26. its the pistons that are different. come to think of it i think the rods are the only thing that is the same. because if you install the crank and pistons you get 26 displacement.

n1 pump. false. they only came of rb26 N1s

and sorry i'll take ITBs over longer runners any day. who honestly needs 1000hp. its a pipe dream and you talk like you are an ignorant 16 year old.

you believe everything people tell you right?
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Old 01-25-2013, 08:25 AM   #18
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I Dont believe anything less i see it with my own eye's. Those were just statements.
Nowhere i said the crank. RB26 RODS, sorry if you took internals to a new level lol..

Of course anyone would take an rb26 but the peps choice the rb neo bc its cheaper and some buy them and not even knowing there neo's.

I have a rb25, Neo, and rb26.
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Old 01-25-2013, 08:29 AM   #19
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Quote:
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do you own a neo? the rods are thicker than standard 25, like the 26. its the pistons that are different. come to think of it i think the rods are the only thing that is the same. because if you install the crank and pistons you get 26 displacement.

n1 pump. false. they only came of rb26 N1s

and sorry i'll take ITBs over longer runners any day. who honestly needs 1000hp. its a pipe dream and you talk like you are an ignorant 16 year old.

you believe everything people tell you right?
lol and your a car guy? Who wouldn't want more power?!
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Old 01-25-2013, 08:51 AM   #20
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ok daigo.

sorry. i like usable power. i want the amount of power that makes a well balanced car.
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Old 01-25-2013, 09:03 AM   #21
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ok daigo.

sorry. i like usable power. i want the amount of power that makes a well balanced car.
I totally agree with you there, there is a limit but not just in drifting terms.. People use these for drag and time attack too Some think more power im faster than anyone on the track, But it comes down to suspension setup, and a very experienced driver, etc..
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Old 01-25-2013, 05:42 PM   #22
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With Apexi making PFC's again I'd get the NEO and grab an ECU, if that's the one you want. I wasn't aware the Greddy mani fitted, there is a company that specializes in RB's here in Japan and they sell a NEO specific IM as well as a Non NEO. After you get INJ you'll have all the harder to find or limited selection stuff. BTW $1300 is a deal.
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Old 01-25-2013, 05:56 PM   #23
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Buy a RB25 , throw a 5858 on it. bam 500whp . and be done with it
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Old 01-26-2013, 04:51 PM   #24
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Seriously guys, the only reason japanese and europeans are using these engines is:
A/ the car was sold with it
B/ we cant throw a V8 in it as there are none.

You live in V8 country, dont waste your time on these unreliable engines ... get a big V8, job done. It will cost less to swap, less to run, and will be more reliable for the same kind of power ... i'll exchange my tuned CA18DET against an ls7 anytime ....
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Old 01-26-2013, 04:58 PM   #25
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I don't get why every one says they are unreliable? They were in stock cars that run for over 100k miles. It's all in how you build it.
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Old 01-26-2013, 05:11 PM   #26
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Quote:
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Seriously guys, the only reason japanese and europeans are using these engines is:
A/ the car was sold with it
B/ we cant throw a V8 in it as there are none.

You live in V8 country, dont waste your time on these unreliable engines ... get a big V8, job done. It will cost less to swap, less to run, and will be more reliable for the same kind of power ... i'll exchange my tuned CA18DET against an ls7 anytime ....
You are by far the most ignorant mother fucker ive seen on here in awhile. Nothing you said is remotely factual. Your an idiot.

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Old 01-27-2013, 06:40 AM   #27
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You are by far the most ignorant mother fucker ive seen on here in awhile. Nothing you said is remotely factual. Your an idiot.

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And you are going to chill out in "ban land" for quite some time i think.
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Old 01-27-2013, 07:40 AM   #28
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Originally Posted by Croustibat View Post
Seriously guys, the only reason japanese and europeans are using these engines is:
A/ the car was sold with it
B/ we cant throw a V8 in it as there are none.

You live in V8 country, dont waste your time on these unreliable engines ... get a big V8, job done. It will cost less to swap, less to run, and will be more reliable for the same kind of power ... i'll exchange my tuned CA18DET against an ls7 anytime ....
LOL are you high? have you seen the price of a full ls swap .... not a LS7 a ls1 swap there is no way its cheaper than a rb swap and not to mention i would rather run a rb20 than a ca18det any day of the week and that is saying something... if you actually take the time to do a quality swap with any engine it will run just fine, you get what you put into it what the hell do you expect out of an engine thats been sitting in a storage yard for years and you just straight up drop it in sorry it doesnt work like that and of course its going to have problems.
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Old 01-28-2013, 02:18 AM   #29
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LOL are you high? have you seen the price of a full ls swap .... not a LS7 a ls1 swap there is no way its cheaper than a rb swap and not to mention i would rather run a rb20 than a ca18det any day of the week and that is saying something... if you actually take the time to do a quality swap with any engine it will run just fine, you get what you put into it what the hell do you expect out of an engine thats been sitting in a storage yard for years and you just straight up drop it in sorry it doesnt work like that and of course its going to have problems.
My point exactly. What do you expect from a 20 year old turbo engine coming from another country ?

RB + shipping + various import taxes + rebuild / tuning price + gearbox every now and then... you are saying this costs less than a V8 that would give the same or more HP without being even opened ?
This is not a question to do a quality swap or not, this is a question of HP/L and how stressed an engine can be to stay reliable. Name it what you want, a tuned 2L turbo engine outputting 300/400HP will always be less reliable than an NA 3/4/5L V8 outputting the same.

BTW I have run a ca18det for some years already. Why ? Because that is the engine that comes with the car here. It gets a check / rebuild every 20.000 miles for a mere ~300WHP output, i have already been through 2 gearboxes (3rd one is on its way out too - btw rb20 gearboxes are the same, rb25 are a bit stronger), and i think even an LSx eats less fuel.

Your choices though ... my thought is you guys just want exotic "JDM" engine in your cars. That is not a problem in itself ... just say it. But from a performance / price / reliability point of view, they cant win against the engines that are already available in the US.
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Old 01-28-2013, 05:32 AM   #30
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Quote:
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My point exactly. What do you expect from a 20 year old turbo engine coming from another country ?

RB + shipping + various import taxes + rebuild / tuning price + gearbox every now and then... you are saying this costs less than a V8 that would give the same or more HP without being even opened ?
This is not a question to do a quality swap or not, this is a question of HP/L and how stressed an engine can be to stay reliable. Name it what you want, a tuned 2L turbo engine outputting 300/400HP will always be less reliable than an NA 3/4/5L V8 outputting the same.

BTW I have run a ca18det for some years already. Why ? Because that is the engine that comes with the car here. It gets a check / rebuild every 20.000 miles for a mere ~300WHP output, i have already been through 2 gearboxes (3rd one is on its way out too - btw rb20 gearboxes are the same, rb25 are a bit stronger), and i think even an LSx eats less fuel.

Your choices though ... my thought is you guys just want exotic "JDM" engine in your cars. That is not a problem in itself ... just say it. But from a performance / price / reliability point of view, they cant win against the engines that are already available in the US.
dont get me wrong lsx is a good motor but youre going to have the same deal with a lsx if its been sitting as well, youre going to have to put some money into it regaurdless unless it was just pulled from a running car. piecing together the swap is a pain in the ass also its like there has been a shortage of t56 trans lately atleast for a decent price . Ever since they figured they could swap the lsx into the s chassis the price for the bastards sky rocketed damn drift taxes you use to be able to grab a t56 from junk yard from for about 200 to 300.... but to answer OPs question for the price and reliability go with a rb25 S2 put the time and effort in doing the swap right the first time save yourself from head aches and ass pains later down the road. now that being said if you can get a lsx swap for a decent price and you know it has no problems i would say go with that. its all personal pref. really do you want a boosted eng. or do you want muscle not saying you cant boost a lsx series eng. but its not cheap either. bottom line is its all down to what you want, people can argue on a forum all day what eng is better but ultimately its what YOU want. also if you dont mind me asking do you have the finances and the technical experience to do a rb engine swap because honestly its not for every one there is nothing wrong with rocking what you can afford

EDIT: also look at the FS section to see if you can find anything locally to save on the cost of shipping and tax i paid 2200 for a full rb26 swap with about everything i need to go into a s13 just look around... also have you considered 1jz/2jz
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