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Old 07-30-2017, 11:30 AM   #1
72nismo
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Oil pressure question??

What should my SR20det oil pressure gauge be reading at idle at 1000rpm?
At the moment I'm getting a reading of 8psi.

Thanks
Luis

Last edited by 72nismo; 07-30-2017 at 06:10 PM..
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Old 07-30-2017, 11:43 AM   #2
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wow, thats extremely low.

I've seen numerous numbers in the range of 35-40 psi
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Old 08-01-2017, 12:22 PM   #3
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 72nismo View Post
What should my SR20det oil pressure gauge be reading at idle at 1000rpm?
At the moment I'm getting a reading of 8psi.

Thanks
Luis
that's a bit low it should be about 10-12 at idle so maybe 13 at 1k

are you running atleast a 40w oil? maybe try a 50
but if that's the case you probably have some moderate bearing wear

definitely should not be 35-40 at 1k unless your engine is cold
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Old 08-01-2017, 12:34 PM   #4
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Originally Posted by kyral View Post
that's a bit low it should be about 10-12 at idle so maybe 13 at 1k

are you running atleast a 40w oil? maybe try a 50
but if that's the case you probably have some moderate bearing wear

definitely should not be 35-40 at 1k unless your engine is cold

I'm running 5-30 Mobil synthetic oil. And at idle its dropped as low as 6 and sometimes lower. When I give it gas it does go up to 30-40. But no higher.
I'm starting to think my oil pump might be bad.
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Old 08-01-2017, 02:09 PM   #5
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I'm running 5-30 Mobil synthetic oil. And at idle its dropped as low as 6 and sometimes lower. When I give it gas it does go up to 30-40. But no higher.
I'm starting to think my oil pump might be bad.
Sr20det takes a 40weight not a 30 dude.. get that junk out.. and put some rotella 15w40 in
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Old 08-01-2017, 02:11 PM   #6
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Sr20det takes a 40weight not a 30 dude.. get that junk out.. and put some rotella 15w40 in
I will try that.
Thanks
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Old 08-01-2017, 03:38 PM   #7
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I run mobile devlac diesel oil
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Old 08-01-2017, 03:44 PM   #8
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Quote:
Originally Posted by taeisbeast View Post
I run mobile devlac diesel oil
this is good too, as long as its atleast a 40 weight and not more than a 50 weight (which diesel usually is a 40w)

I can gurantee that using a 40w will help at the least if not correct this issue all together
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Old 08-02-2017, 12:03 AM   #9
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20w50, been running for years now. But really, should probably save for a rebuild
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Old 08-02-2017, 08:57 AM   #10
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20w50, been running for years now. But really, should probably save for a rebuild
why would you go straight for a rebuild when an oil change will likely put this car back at healthy psi and is far cheaper?
Even if the car had sustained some damage or wear. it happens, itll still run and still provide a long service life if properly watched and maintained from there

Why does everyone on zilvia always recomend the most expensinve impractical route
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Old 08-03-2017, 04:35 AM   #11
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what kind of gauge
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Old 08-03-2017, 12:15 PM   #12
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20w50, been running for years now. But really, should probably save for a rebuild


I run 20w50 (VR-1) as well with no problems
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Old 08-03-2017, 01:17 PM   #13
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what kind of gauge
Running a glow shift guage. Then I bought an oil pressure tester to see if my gauge was bad but got same low numbers.
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Old 08-04-2017, 07:18 AM   #14
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Quote:
Originally Posted by kyral View Post
why would you go straight for a rebuild when an oil change will likely put this car back at healthy psi and is far cheaper?
Even if the car had sustained some damage or wear. it happens, itll still run and still provide a long service life if properly watched and maintained from there

Why does everyone on zilvia always recomend the most expensinve impractical route
X2. If your oil is heavily contaminated with fuel you will get a lower pressure reading. If your oil pump is on its way out, you will get a lower pressure reading. Even with 5w30 on a cold start up, you should be see 60+ psi.

Myself, some what recent oil change. Mobil 1 10w30. Cold start @ 1500rpm I see 80psi. As it falls down toward 1000rpm I see 60psi. Once fully warm @ 850rpm I see 18psi.

I'd start with an oil change... Either 15w40 or 15w50. If oil pressure is still low I'd get a new oil pump. Worst case, if you do need a rebuild, you will want a new oil pump anyway.
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Old 08-04-2017, 04:10 PM   #15
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Originally Posted by Jefro240 View Post
X2. If your oil is heavily contaminated with fuel you will get a lower pressure reading. If your oil pump is on its way out, you will get a lower pressure reading. Even with 5w30 on a cold start up, you should be see 60+ psi.

Myself, some what recent oil change. Mobil 1 10w30. Cold start @ 1500rpm I see 80psi. As it falls down toward 1000rpm I see 60psi. Once fully warm @ 850rpm I see 18psi.

I'd start with an oil change... Either 15w40 or 15w50. If oil pressure is still low I'd get a new oil pump. Worst case, if you do need a rebuild, you will want a new oil pump anyway.
I will be changing oil this weekend. I hope that does it! Thanks !!
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Old 08-04-2017, 06:35 PM   #16
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X2. If your oil is heavily contaminated with fuel you will get a lower pressure reading. If your oil pump is on its way out, you will get a lower pressure reading. Even with 5w30 on a cold start up, you should be see 60+ psi.



Myself, some what recent oil change. Mobil 1 10w30. Cold start @ 1500rpm I see 80psi. As it falls down toward 1000rpm I see 60psi. Once fully warm @ 850rpm I see 18psi.



I'd start with an oil change... Either 15w40 or 15w50. If oil pressure is still low I'd get a new oil pump. Worst case, if you do need a rebuild, you will want a new oil pump anyway.
15w40 or 15w50 Is oil for Diesel engine. That will work on an SR? It won't damage engine????







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Old 08-05-2017, 09:34 AM   #17
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Diesel oil

Diesel oil huh? Hmmmm
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Old 08-05-2017, 12:52 PM   #18
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Diesel oil huh? Hmmmm
yes run the diesel oil, a lot of people run it. I even run it in my brand new rebuilt ka24 but I use a 10w30 rotella cause ka's take 30-40 weight, but SR's take 40-50 and the weight is very important for oil pressure
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Old 08-05-2017, 01:30 PM   #19
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yes run the diesel oil, a lot of people run it. I even run it in my brand new rebuilt ka24 but I use a 10w30 rotella cause ka's take 30-40 weight, but SR's take 40-50 and the weight is very important for oil pressure
I will try it.
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Old 08-05-2017, 08:29 PM   #20
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that's a bit low it should be about 10-12 at idle so maybe 13 at 1k
Where is this info coming from? Is this real life experience?
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Old 08-05-2017, 09:06 PM   #21
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Where is this info coming from? Is this real life experience?
FSM call for about 11 psi at 800RPM, now granted my engine isn't stock I figured I'd throw my 2 cents in. I run SAE 60 Dominator by Amsoil and see 12-15 PSI at idle and that's usually in 100+ degree weather.
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Old 08-06-2017, 06:32 AM   #22
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I will try it.
Thanks
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youre killing me dude... fram filter really?
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Old 08-06-2017, 09:35 AM   #23
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I run 0w20 in my rebuilt rb. I see 6 bar at warm idle with 10w30 so I had to switch. About 2 bar at idle with 0w20 However this isn't an Sr so my info probably is useless.
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Old 08-06-2017, 02:32 PM   #24
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SR Changed oil to 15-40

So I did the oil change. Warmed it up and my pressure went up to like 30s then when warmed up it ended at 10psi. Took it for a test run and got home and at 900 rpm and oil pressure was at 7psi. So gut feeling something wrong.
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Old 08-07-2017, 11:41 AM   #25
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Quote:
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I run 0w20 in my rebuilt rb. I see 6 bar at warm idle with 10w30 so I had to switch. About 2 bar at idle with 0w20 However this isn't an Sr so my info probably is useless.
0w20? youre crazy man. are you running super tight bearings?
and 2 bar at idle would be like 30 psi and 6 bar would be like 90psi one of which are very unlikely



OP are you rod knocking at idle?
You have some oil pressure so thats atleast a good sign
how are we testing oil pressure? like what setup are you using
youre only a couple psi off where you should be id say give the 50w a shot your bearing might just be worn a bit
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Old 08-07-2017, 11:46 AM   #26
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That's too low. Engine building rule of thumb is 10PSI per 1000RPM. Drain the pan and look for any metallic material. Also pull the oil pan and start checking the rods to see if any are knocking that you can't hear yet. If you still don't find anything pull the engine and then the main caps and check the main bearings. If you're lucky you haven't spun a bearing and you just need to replace the oil pump.
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Old 08-07-2017, 06:34 PM   #27
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That's too low. Engine building rule of thumb is 10PSI per 1000RPM. Drain the pan and look for any metallic material. Also pull the oil pan and start checking the rods to see if any are knocking that you can't hear yet. If you still don't find anything pull the engine and then the main caps and check the main bearings. If you're lucky you haven't spun a bearing and you just need to replace the oil pump.
I forgot to post this pic but this is what I've seen last couple oil changes. And at the moment car is not even driven much. Mostly just test driving it.

https://imgur.com/a/OFL8r?s=sms



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Stop running the car, you spun a bearing. The engine is dead and absolutely will need a rebuild.
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Old 08-07-2017, 06:39 PM   #28
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Stop running the car, you spun a bearing. The engine is dead and absolutely will need a rebuild.
So because of the metal particles on the magnetic oil pan plug. That's a sign motor is dead?
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Old 08-07-2017, 06:39 PM   #29
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So because of the metal particles on the magnetic oil pan plug. That's a sign motor is dead?
Yes. That's bearing material.
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Old 08-07-2017, 06:41 PM   #30
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Yes. That's bearing material.
If thats the case Im really screwed because bearing were replaced not to long ago. And I mean like in the last 4 months.
This is not a stock SR but a built SR if that makes any difference.
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