1eightySX

Ok so about two weeks i posted a message about my car stalling. It is a redtop SR20DET from a 1991 180sx. So the problem is that it stalls under 2000 rpm, at first every one thought it might be a vacuum leak. I had that checked. Also, I changed my fuel pump thinking that was the problem but it did not help. So I took it to nissan, and they found when they removed the engine coolant temp sensor that it would run perfectly. So they put in a new 240sx sensor and it did the same thing. Do 180SX use different sensors than the usdm 240sx? What sensor should i be using?

Any help would be greatly appreciated, thanks.

georgesal

let me know what you find out i have the same prob

g6civcx

Check the sensor's wiring.

http://www.frsport.com/DIF_Dual_Fan_...40SX_t_22.html

The sensor is interchangeable between KA and SR.

http://www.frsport.com/Nissan_OEM_EC...or_p_2199.html

1eightySX

ok so i checked and all my connections and they seem to be ok. My next question is, could it be my speed sensor doing this? My speedo randomly cuts out, so could it be this causing it to stall? As I said it runs when the engine temp sensor is unplugged but does need to be plugged in to start, sometimes.
Thanks for the advice so far, it has been helpful.

1eightySX

anybody else have any ideas? I welcome all advice. please help

wootwoot

You need to do more then look at the wiring. You need to check it all with a voltmeter.

__________________
I'm from Florida so I'm probably a bit more strange than you

2.0-TURBOcoupe

the AICV can cause the car to stall out like that. check and make sure it is clean and in working order

WILDACEX187

check your tps pls. i have the same prob and its the wiring to the tps

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SR POWA COUPE LUVVV!!!

1eightySX

ok so i ran some carb cleaner through the iacv, it might have helped a little but it still stalls. I checked the engine temp coolant sensor wiring harness with a volt meter, i know that it completes a circut, and that it is grounded as well. I would like to run some of this seafoam through it but I will have to find it. Also I drove it today with the engine temp coolant sensor plugged in and when i hit the gas it boggs and then jerks into going. And what is the TPS sensor? I am sorry i am not great with the abbriviations, but I will search for it as well. thanks, I really appreciate the advice.

ladiesman8527

TPS = throttle position sensor. its located on the throttle body.

1eightySX

ok so i talked to the shop today and they said they cheched the tps when it was in there. I unplugged both the engine temp and tps and it still ran, then when i plugged in the temp sensor it began acting up again. I put another can of cleaner throught the AICV it helped for a bit, it did not stall out afer running for two minutes idles seemed a bit low. So i drove it normaly and still was hesitent when i stepped on the gas. So I am back to square one when the engine temp sensor is unplugged it runs but otherwise it stalls. I am going to take the sensor out and make sure it is the right one. I don't think the shop could have put wrong one in but who knows. Oh, could this be an o2 sensor causing it?

Thanks again for the advice, if it was for everyones help i would have lost it weeks ago.

wvustud2003

check your mafs connections. if it's bogging an jumping when you accel that might be the problem. use to happen to me when i would hit a huge pothole.

1eightySX

i did just switch it about 8 month ago but i will look at it a second time.

wvustud2003

if it has a loose connection or sits the wrong way it will give you the symptoms you are describing. trust me i have to adjust mine every so often. or it could be dirty since we did just get out of winter. if you got any debris,road salt, etc on it you will have problems

1eightySX

cool, i mean good info. what should i clean it with? i still have some carb cleaner, is that a good idea?

wvustud2003

well look at it first and make sure it isn't dirty. and don't get water in it. i woudl start it and play around with the maf and see if that's the problem. that's how i figured out what my problem was and your throttle cable is right on the IM so you can pull that to keep it from stalling while you figure out what is wrong with your car. and do a voltage test on the mafs as well

1eightySX

so i know that on the wiring harness to the maf there is one circut being complete. I played around with the maf, didn't seem to do much. But I have a question about this, the first time i switched the maf, I found that the previous owner had taped ove the smaller tube that runs back into the rear plate behind the filter. I was wondering if anyone knows wht someone would do that.

wvustud2003

yes because if you leave that open you would be letting unaccounted for air into the motor and your ecu will freak out and stall out. it's there so you can recirc your b.o.v. which will definitely help your car run much better since you're venting to atmosphere without ems. it's really hard to diagnose your car without being there.

1eightySX

thats understandable, i appreciate the help though.

wvustud2003

i had the same problems as you and know how bad it sucked because it's not the average mechanic knows how to work on your car. i live right outside philly so i don't trust anybody to work on my car

statik

my stalling issues were TPS and IACV related. make sure the tps is outputting between .35-.69 volts closed and ~4.0 when fully open, I forget which pin it is but theres only 3 so im sure you can find it. As for the IACV, if you have the stock manifold its not hard to remove it, it really helps to take it off and clean the hell out of it.

__________________
97 240sx esaarr | Current Status: SOLD

1eightySX

cool, i got a question about the sensor itself. Lets say the shop put in the 22630-51E02 from the S14 opposed to either the 22630-V5010 or 322630-51E00,(keeping in mind that mine is 91) what kind of difference could that make?

1eightySX

ok so I have a new queston, I am pretty confused. So I have been quecking part numbers and they put an after market sensor in my car in place of an oem one. So when I read about the sensors it said to use 22630-V5010 or 22630-51E00 and not 22630-51E02. However, these numbers alll cross reference to same after market part (WT5000) could this be the problem. Any answer please I am so lost.

2.240s

Mine was doing the same , re-did the timing and turnred up the idle , solved the problem. you might have a different problem.

1eightySX

alrgiht, problem ahs been repaired. Turns out the wires that run through the wheel well on the right hand side has worn out. I spent a lot of money to find this out, so I am posting so someone else won't have to pay in the future. thanks again for the help.

Justin Bernstein

Can you be more specific about what wires were worn out and what you did to fix the issue?

-Thanks

1eightySX

Well, I was lucky enought to find a good mechanic so I am not all to sure what the exact location of these wires is. However, I do know that many people do chose to have these wires lengthed and re-routed a bit. There were about 20 wires, might have been the ones that run to the fuse box as one headlight was not working and once all the wires were reconnected it was all fine. If anyone has any other question please post as maybe I can help further.

nomadman

i have the same exact issue as 1eightySX and i was wondering if anyone could clarify what those wires are that he is referencing? i also had issues with my passenger side headlight (my car is RHD). i would like to locate those wires he is talking about and see about replacing them. if anyone could please assist me i would greately appriciate it!!!

nomadman

anyone..? please..?

nomadman

bump!..