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Engine Tech Technical discussion related to all relevant engines such as KA, SR, RB, CA, 2JZ , L24/26/28, VG, VQ, and LSx series. |
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05-21-2013, 10:50 PM | #1 |
Zilvia Member
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Someone please help!!!!
Ugh, been having really bad luck recently.. It's a 95 240sx with a s13 redtop in it. So what's going down is the other day I decided to take the car out and it was running great. The next day when I was driving I started to feel some hesitation around 5k rpm and it felt like I was hitting a huge gust of wind. I decided to take my car back to the garage and notices by windows stopped working ( wouldnt go up) so I turn my car off. I go to turn it back on and it wont start. I go inside and come out 20 minutes later and the car slowly starts up. Now the cluster wasnt working nor the windows. I rev it and bam the cluster becomes responsive and the windows work again I decided to take the car out through my neighborhood later that day and the car started to bog out around 2.5k until it eventually lost all power and shut off. during that time i couldnt even hold the clutch in a rev it, it was not responding at all. So the car shuts off and wont turn back on again. The locks radio and cluster arent responsive. I charge my battery for 15 minutes and get it home. I tested the battery at home and it was lower than it should and when the car was idling the numbers dropped. After doing some research i thought all signs pointed to the alternator so i went out yesterday and bought one, installed it and boom same problem. Today the brake lights decided they arent going to work either. The air in the car isnt coming on as well anymore. The idle has been acting up and i noticed if i unplugged the tps it stayed constant. I checked the fuses and didnt see any that were blown. I also purchased this new battery a couple weeks ago. Anyone have any ideas, maybe a bad ground?
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05-21-2013, 10:55 PM | #2 |
Zilvia FREAK!
Join Date: Sep 2012
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possible ground but with all those problems happening at once it looks to me like your ecu is toasted or acting up like crazy!
i mean seperatly the delayed gas pedel could be a messed up throttle cable or the throttle body is dirty...you did good with the battery and alternator but maybe its a loose wire or short in the harness? im just trying to throw out ideas here |
05-22-2013, 12:04 PM | #3 |
Zilvia Junkie
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Check the power supply connections at your alternator, battery, and fuse box. My car did this when I first bought it, turned out the main power wire right at the alternator was bad not allowing the battery to charge nor the power to get to the rest of the car.
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05-23-2013, 11:24 AM | #5 |
Post Whore!
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What sort of shape is the wiring harness in?
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06-02-2013, 02:20 PM | #14 |
Zilvia FREAK!
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Still sounds like you are having a power issues, go through the typical evaluation process when a car isn't turning over = check spark/time/fuel/air, also finish checking all your fuses if you haven't already. Also if you have a battery charger check the battery. Did the car ever run correctly?
Also I agree with OG Sleeve Shadows, how's the harness. And where are those pics? |
06-02-2013, 03:38 PM | #15 |
Zilvia Member
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So I think it's the CAS. Unplugged it started cranking the car and put it in and it turned on. I went through and the harness is plugged in to everything and seems to be in good shape. I bought the car with it running fine for the week and that's when everything started to go. The 100a fuse was the cause for all the electrical problems.
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06-02-2013, 08:47 PM | #16 |
Man w/ CTSV & a Car Seat
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I wouldnt be surprised if that 100A fuse is popped again. Check the wiring to the alternator. There's a black plastic insulator around power stud on the alternator, if that thing is gone, then you're alternator is grounding out causing the fuse to blow.
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06-02-2013, 10:12 PM | #17 |
Zilvia Member
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I checked the fuse and it's fine, all my electronics are working and the car was running when I got it started, it wasn't cutting out and dying, the idle gets a little rough at times also making me think it is the CAS
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06-03-2013, 07:20 AM | #18 |
Nissanaholic!
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^^CAS won't really cause a rough idle... It would cause the car to run like complete crap.
If your idle is rough, check for vacuum/boost leaks; ensure your plugs, coils & coipack subharness are in good working order... Ensure all your little grounds are properly connected and have good continuity to the chassis... check your alternator output.
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06-03-2013, 12:08 PM | #19 |
Zilvia FREAK!
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^ +1
And if you haven't checked you spark/time/air/and fuel I would do so. And yes air involves vacuum leaks. You said it idles rough? Thats a broad term, to the common eye when someone says that they can be refering to misfire/incorrect fuel air ratio/timing off/weak spark, the list goes on... What does it do at higher rpms? |
06-03-2013, 02:12 PM | #22 |
Nissanaholic!
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If your timing was fine before, it's prolly fine now. Have you added anything to your fuel (injector cleaner, octane booster etc)? If you did, it's bad plugs- fuel additives fry RB & SR plugs within a tank of gas or less. Also, you need to use 91 or 93 octane gas... SR's aren't made for 87... Just trying to throw the easy stuff out there.
The cluster not working, then working when you rev is really strange... Sounds like a charging/grounding issue. Check the red connector on the positive battery cable & make sure they are secure... Then make sure every single ground top to bottom is good.
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06-03-2013, 06:10 PM | #23 |
Zilvia Member
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Mikester I came from a gti with full bolt ons and tune so all I know is 93 octane haha, but as said I fixed the first problem with the electronics and the car dying. It was the 100a fuse, I went around cleaned all the grounds and made sure the wiring is fine. This all started when my car was overheating when I bought it, a heater hose broke so I went in a changed all the coolant hoses, all of them were rigged and not the correct shaped hoses causing them to crimp. After fixing that the car had a bad idle, and was because of leaks, I used a smoke machine and got rid of all the leaks, then the 100a fuse blew, me not knowing I went and bought a new alternator, didn't fix the problem because it was the 100a fuse. So I buy the fuse and the car turns on and runs fine but was breaking up around 4k Rpms, I park the car and turn it off, when I go to turn it back on it cranks but won't start. I go through and check all the grounds and wiring, all looks fine, so I have my friend unplug the CAS, I crank the car and he plugs it in quickly and the car catches and I rev it to start. After that the car holds idle and stays running. I let it idle for 10 minutes and it stayed on. I turn it off and clean the CAS but it won't start. If the car overheats can't it ruin the CAS?
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06-04-2013, 12:03 AM | #24 |
Zilvia FREAK!
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Why wouldn't it cause it to fault? Just like typically with that arent specifically designed for heat measurement, high or extreme heat can ruin it and commonly will. If you've already tested it and it won't run with it connected then its faulting unless its connection is interrupted. IMO I wouldn't check to see if its the connections good and if so replace it.
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06-04-2013, 01:11 PM | #25 |
Zilvia Member
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So after letting the car sit a day I just went to turn it on and it started first try with the help of a little revving. Let it idle and took it through the neighborhood. Drove great and there was no Breaking up. I park it, turn it off, and go to turn it back on and it cranks and won't turn over. I'm gonna purchase a new CAS this week and get back to you guys
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