SupaDoopa

Alright. How. I am on the hunt to achieve super low but super functional. This is my suspension setup thus far:

Function & Form type 2 coilovers
TEIN inner and outer tie rods
OEM tie rod boots
PBM tie rod spacers
SPL tension rod
PBM toe rod
PBM RUCA
PBM traction
Tanabe Sustech rear sway bar
OEM HICAS front sway bar
Energy Suspension master bushing kit
SPL solid subframe bushings
SPL solid diff mounting bushings
Project Kics bolt on spacers
ABS removed

Now, I'm planning on running 18x9.5+14//18x11+0 VS-KF's and have a few questions. I already posted in various other threads but the subject tends to always get overlooked with random shit talking and fuckery. So, I figured to expedite the progress and have the car functionally low so I can take new pictures [which everyone on Zilvia has a hard on for - including me], I'm looking for some of your help.

The question I'm basically looking for some help on is what will help me get as low as possible FUNCTIONALLY while still looking dope [I expect to run some serious camber even after I buy some over fenders] that I don't currently have? I heard some things like steering rack spacers, modded knuckles, etc. Now, I plan on going 20mm front/30mm rear over fenders [unless someone thinks I should go bigger] to help fit the wheels. Any and all opinions and input is going to positively be taken in. If you want to flame, whatever. If you want to be helpful, I appreciate it. Thanks again ahead of time.

godrifttoday

You'll need a drift work front knuckle $600, and pbm rear knuckle $400, and case closed.

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SupaDoopa

Now, I was looking into the DWorks products earlier actually. With the help of those two knuckles, I should be able to get full lock with no rubbing issues at all? I know it comes down to a lot of factors [I am currently tubbed in front anyways], but I do want to still keep function turning and not ease into it because I'm destroying my tires. Haha.

OBEEWON

Yo. The best way to figure out what works is to try things and change things accordingly. That is the best advice you can get.

I wasted lots of money buying things I did not need or like when I started.

For me (and this may apply to others but I'm speaking for myself):

1. Lower car
2. Get as close to stock alignment specs as possible. (with the exception of front camber, and rear toe)

I assume you plan on drifting...

Don't waste money on knuckles till you need them, otherwise you will be doing full lock drifts at 25mph.

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KendallH

SPL tie rod ends with bump steer adjusters.

SupaDoopa

@OBEEWON - Car is plently low but right now on 17x9.5 +15 [Battles] with a small spacer. 5mm I think. I just want to retain the function of having larger, deeper wheels and not have to shred tires constantly and hear rubbing. Man, is that annoying. And right now, I'm about an inch or so from scraping sway bar constantly.

@Kendall - So the TEIN's are no bueno?

OBEEWON

I liked the Teins. Had them on all three of my S14's. Tein inners/outters and spacers. I got plenty of lock with them once I aligned it right.

If you don't want to flip tires then keep the rear camber at a minimum and 0 toe front and back.

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SupaDoopa

Yeah. I have TEIN inner and outers with PBM spacers. 7mm I believe is their standard.

slider2828

Read the thread about Roll Center Correction. But basically that is what you need when going super low. You'll need to correct for ackerman, roll center, and get steering angle for drift.

How do you do that, offset rack spacers pbm, pbm front and rear lca's, raise the subframe and get front knuckles modified. You'll also need to get some tie rods with bumpsteer correction from SPL. Also at this point, you'll have to start swapping bushings out cause the old stuff, is worn and probably tear and give you slop. You probably need to get better coils and springs probably as well. You say how much is all that going to cost you you say? Probably $3500 bux in suspension.

You bought some PBM stuff, so you already know. There is no cheap way around this for a functioning low vehicle..... Might also get some new wheel bearings cause wider wheels is going to really put some pressure on the hubs/wheel bearings.

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SupaDoopa

Yeah. The bushings I bought are actually brand new i.e. being replaced as soon as I get home from deployment. The coils are going to be swapped out with PBM's as well. I didn't list them NOW because I'll be running THAT setup once I get home in two or so months. The tie rods will probably be upgraded in the future.

I anticipated the knuckles and LCA's but didn't think I needed them right away. I don't need it to be PERFECT, just need it to be function. This car won't see a track this coming year so as of this second in time, it just needs to work for some horseplay here and there and dailying around. When the build is complete, it'll be dedicated.

godrifttoday

^ lol
U need them if u want your car to handle good and be super low

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slider2828

Then you are just talking about going low, with the least amount of camber.... Basically is what you are talking about.....

Then you just talking lower control arms... The top hats/RUCA's aren't going to give you enough camber adjustment, hence LCA's...... Get some SPL tie rods for bump steer so your tie rods aren't up in the air and have a lot of pressure on them. Done....

There I think that is what you are asking for then....

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SupaDoopa

No. It'll be a dedicated drift car but not overnight. Dont have the funds to dump it all into knuckles and LCA's in one shot. It'll be a piece by piece kind of thing. It's why I asked for suggestions. I'll be ordering the SPL's in the very near future and the knuckles and arms piece by piece to hopefully be completely by the summer.

slider2828

Then you all set and lock thread haha....

But just keep reading in the tech section about the roll center suspension thread.... Nothing else....

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SupaDoopa

Much appreciated. Thanks for the input. Any suggestion on if I should go 30 or 50 in the rear?

slider2828

Depends on how much money you got. LOL... I contemplated this too. 50mm you gotta totally get super low negative offset. Those types of rims are not cheap. 30mm you can run with 0 offset which is more easier and safer to do with spacers and stuff....

Go 30, its easier to "tuck" and camber. LOL

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SupaDoopa

Yeah. The 18x11 is a +/-0 in the rear so I'm thinking a 30mm will suffice perfectly and a 20mm in the front so I can space the 18x9.5 +14's and give them a little space to breath off the suspension components.

living4surf

If you go with Pbm pro knuckles in the front there is no need for the spl outer tie rod ends the knuckle already adjust the tie rod down and the lower control arm. The knuckle is the best thing to fix steering geometry added bonus is extra angle

slider2828

The knuckle is not made for normal tie rod ends. It also depends on how low you are going you are still going to need to extend down the ends of the tie rods. Its adjustable anyways, and why go with grease fittings if you pillowballs?

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95KA-Turbo

The PSM Pro Knuckles feel amazing. Unbelievably stable and super predictable. The front end feels way crisper then it used to and I can just steer the car where I want it to go.

All you need are OEM style (moog or tien) outers and Ikeya Formula inners to run their knuckle. The knuckle has the bump steer adjusted so there is no need to space it down more.

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Instagram - SJKnoop

TheRealSy90

You are not low enough. Try again.

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SupaDoopa

Brool story, co.