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08-10-2012, 06:08 AM | #1 |
Zilvia Junkie
Join Date: Nov 2007
Location: Estonia
Age: 32
Posts: 450
Trader Rating: (2)
Feedback Score: 2 reviews
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Motary's RS13 to RPS13 build
Hi, I am Siim and I am from Estonia. I study Automotive engineering in Tallinn University of applied sciences and this my build. The car started out as a bone stock 1989 Nissan 200SX with a CA18DET that I wrecked in a tight bend. Then I bought a new body and transfered the running gear and interior to it which resulted in this:
CA18DET engine as fitted from factory: Apex'i PowerIntake Cometic headgasket S14 T28 Turbo Goodridge 150 micron fuel filter 600x300x76 V-mount intercooler Manual Boost Controller 2.5" exhaust system Simonsi muffler and resonator Greddy replica dump valve Driftworks braided steel turbo oil feed new Daido metal engine bearings new OEM piston rings new Contitech timing belt producing about 250-270hp (rough estimate) Fluids: Castrol Edge Sport 10w-60 Castrol manual TAF-X gear oil Castrol power steering fluid Castrol LSD oil Suspension: Cut springs Electronics: Stage 2 chip by h-dev Walbro 255 l/h Nissan Almera electric radiator fan Interior: Autometer ES boost gauge Sparco Corsa bucket seat Sabelt 6 point formula harness Sabelt Rac steering wheel Driftworks quick-release Driftworks drift button Sony Xplod CDX-GT414U 120W speakers Transmission: Kaaz 2-way LSD Wheels: Rota D2 17x8,5 +20 veljed 17x7,5 +5 RH Aluminium wheels A7574 Since the CA18DET engine is very sensitive to proper maintenance they are all in terrible condition and done over 300 000 km and tend to suffer from spun engine bearings and poorly mended engines I decided to do a full SR20DET conversion with proper parts. Current list of modifications: Engine: 1994 SR20DET from S14 200SX Skimmed block and cylinder head Honed and enlarged cylinders Modified crankshaft for better lubrication 87mm Wiseco forged pistons Eagle forged connecting rods ACL 0.25 race bearings S15 Silvia injectors 444cc @ 3 bar / 480cc @ 3,5 Z32 airflow meter new OEM timing kit new OEM oil pump new OEM TPS sensor new OEM valve stem seals Elring gasket kit - is crap and most didn't fit Cometic MLS 1.2mm headgasket Custom braided turbo oil lines Custom headwrapped turbo water lines with heat resistant hose Gates alternator and power steering belts Oil catch tank Intake system: 600x300x75mm intercooler Apex'i Power intake air filter 2.5" aluminum piping Synapse diverter valve (ordered) Cold air feed from front bumper to bellmouth under the air filter Exhaust sytem: Turbonetics T04E turbo with custom exhaust housing (T28) Synapse 40mm wastegate OEM exhaust manifold with external wastegate OEM exhaust multilayer steel gasket Custom 3" exhaust Simons 3" resonator Simons twin exit 2.5" resonator as muffler 3" flex pipe Heatwrapped downpipe Heatwrapped screamer pipe Cooling system: Aftermarket 52 mm aluminum radiator Nissan Almera electric cooling fan with a switch Rear differential cooler made into power steering cooler 19 row engine oil cooler Silicone radiator hoses Drivetrain: Rebuilt transmission with new bearings Kaaz 2-way limited slip differential Nissan pickup clutch new clutch release bearing rebuilt clutch master and slave cylinder removed clutch damper (that long pipe) Body: GUP tuning front bumper Zenki 180SX side skirts Kouki 180SX rear valances Kouki 180SX rear lights rolled rear fenders Interior and electronics: Nistune type 4 ecu with usb consult Innovate MTX-L wideband gauge and controller Autometer ES series boost gauge Autometer ES series oil pressure gauge Custom laser cut gauge panel Sparco Evo L bucket seat Driftworks drift button Driftworks quick release hub Sabelt RAC steering wheel with momo hub Sabelt 6 point racing harness Sony Xplod headunit and some speakers Custom made gear lever gaitor Suspension and chassis: BC Racing RM series inverted coilovers Custom front strut bar Front: Strong flex yellow steering rack bushings Strong flex red polyurethane tension arm bushings Strong flex red polyurethane front lower control arm bushings Nissan Maxima A32 inner tie rods New ball joints Custom outer tie rods Custom front knuckle Custom steering rack spacer Rear: Strong flex red polyurethane rear subframe bushings Custom traction arm with spherical bearing Custom toe arm with spherical bearing Custom camber arm with spherical bearing Custom toe arms support link between them Custom low arm mount for adjustable anti-squat (traction) Wheels: Rota D2 royal gold 17x8,5 +20 Vehicle mass without driver: 1250kg Vehicle mass with driver: 1353kg Spare tyre, 8l of fuel Corner weights with driver: Front left: 355kg Front right: 328kg Front total: 683kg Left rear: 348kg Right rear: 318kg Total rear: 666kg Difference between front and rear: 17kg Weight distribution F/R 50.5/49.5 Diagonal front left - right rear: 676kg Diagonal front right - left rear: 673kg Difference: 3kg Plans: paint it black, get full kouki aero so it would look awesome like this: Clicky Clicky but as of right now I just need the engine mapped so I could get on with bodywork and drifting and a video of the engine finally working with a maf: fire - YouTube Last edited by Motary; 11-19-2012 at 04:01 PM.. |
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08-23-2012, 03:11 PM | #2 |
Zilvia Junkie
Join Date: Nov 2007
Location: Estonia
Age: 32
Posts: 450
Trader Rating: (2)
Feedback Score: 2 reviews
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New clutch from a Nissan D21, cars up to 450 hp use these without issues:
Got to love japanese parts: Synapse engineering diverter valve: Painted transmission after fixing fifth gear issue: Would have had it running today but I'm missing ONE flywheel bolt, buggers had seized and we had to weld bars on them to get them loose since the heads had become round |
11-09-2012, 04:06 AM | #5 |
Zilvia Junkie
Join Date: Nov 2007
Location: Estonia
Age: 32
Posts: 450
Trader Rating: (2)
Feedback Score: 2 reviews
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I've been having some problems lately with my car since a fuse went, car takes like 2 minutes of cranking to start up and it runs quite rough, I have replaced the broken fuses, but this issue still haunts me. The ecu diagnostics shows everything is running okay, there is also a massive smell of fuel in the exhaust so I am guessing it is something in the ignition perhaps?
Been busy designing and fabricating new front suspension setup: I will also be making a new strut top mount to reduce the jacking effect and camber change: Standard kingpin axis and caster: Modified: Also made a temporary head shield until I can source the OEM one: The intake pipe is quite close to the manifold so I need to do some heat shielding there. Had a friend fabricate an intake pipe to hold the Synapse diverter valve: It's crazy how fast it responds! Adjustable anti-squat: Rear suspension as it is right now: I will be designing a brand new upright with some neat features for spring as my final paper project |
11-21-2012, 06:43 AM | #13 |
Zilvia.net Advertiser
Join Date: Nov 2005
Location: Michigan
Age: 33
Posts: 5,431
Trader Rating: (16)
Feedback Score: 16 reviews
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I'm very interested to see how the front suspension works out. Solid build so far.
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Build: http://zilvia.net/f/showthread.php?t=643065 Friends don't let friends buy knock-offs. |
11-22-2012, 04:01 PM | #14 |
Zilvia Junkie
Join Date: Nov 2007
Location: Estonia
Age: 32
Posts: 450
Trader Rating: (2)
Feedback Score: 2 reviews
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Cheers guys
Some pics of stuff I did today: First remove the ghetto temporary arm and fit the cool stuff: I need to get some narrower wheels, too much poke in the front now |
08-09-2013, 12:25 PM | #17 |
Zilvia Junkie
Join Date: Nov 2007
Location: Estonia
Age: 32
Posts: 450
Trader Rating: (2)
Feedback Score: 2 reviews
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It has taken some massive time but front suspension setup is now finished apart from some bolts and stuff:
Tyres are planted at full lock of 60 degrees and there's plenty of roll center correction to lower the car further Looking at the pictures I see I forgot to tighten to lower control arm to knuckle bolt, saaaaaaaaaaafe~! |
03-24-2014, 02:53 PM | #18 |
Leaky Injector
Join Date: Oct 2009
Location: Madness Garage
Posts: 127
Trader Rating: (0)
Feedback Score: 0 reviews
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I'm not gonna lie, these knuckles look to me like they are going to break really easy.
has anyone done knuckes like these on a car before? looks more like something that would be on a golf cart or something. and no offence, just asking. I've just never seen anything like that before. and I am not very good a fabrication, so I'm not going to pretend that I know what I am talking about, or anything like that. I'm just giving you my first impression I get when I look at it.
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1991 Skyline GT-R 1993 240sx SR20 |
04-08-2014, 12:28 AM | #20 |
Zilvia Junkie
Join Date: Nov 2007
Location: Estonia
Age: 32
Posts: 450
Trader Rating: (2)
Feedback Score: 2 reviews
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Clutch master died so I decided to replace it with a brand new one since they are cheap:
Current engine setup w/o catch can Finally had the time to clean up the workshop: I took the car for a drive. The EFR is so so good in response! Even at free way speeds in 5th gear it makes boost as soon as you touch the throttle for more power Braided clutch and brake lines improved pedal feel and new fan didn't let the car get hot even without a shroud around it. I will make a custom one soon Currently the engine is tuned by myself running 10 psi and 12.0-12.5 AFR at WOT and it hauls awesome, can't wait to get it tuned to 20 psi by a professional. |
10-22-2013, 12:14 PM | #22 |
Zilvia Junkie
Join Date: Nov 2007
Location: Estonia
Age: 32
Posts: 450
Trader Rating: (2)
Feedback Score: 2 reviews
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I ordered new overflow bottle from GKTech when they did their silly 9 dollar sale:
It is much thicker than OEM and stronger too, but the hose opening is too big to properly hold it in there and overflow hole is smaller because of the thicker material. It took some time but I tracked down what was the reason why the engine overheated, pretty stupid that I had forgotten to cut a hole for the waterway in the head: Correct gasket: So I bought a correct gasket instead of making one myself that only comes off as rubble. I thought I had a headgasket leak, so I had previously ordered a new from by Cosworth and ARP2000 headstuds with it: Then I discovered the head can't be installed with studs in place, the chain guides get in the way. I removed the studs and installed the head: I did some heat shielding too: And assembled: I have also been working on the new rear suspension: |
10-23-2013, 01:15 AM | #23 |
Zilvia.net Advertiser
Join Date: Nov 2005
Location: Michigan
Age: 33
Posts: 5,431
Trader Rating: (16)
Feedback Score: 16 reviews
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Looking good man! Excited to see this thing in action!
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Build: http://zilvia.net/f/showthread.php?t=643065 Friends don't let friends buy knock-offs. |
10-23-2013, 05:55 AM | #25 |
Premium Member
Join Date: Mar 2009
Location: Maricopa, AZ
Age: 30
Posts: 7,679
Trader Rating: (10)
Feedback Score: 10 reviews
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The head can be dropped over the studs if you have someone there to help flex the guides a bit to clear. I've done it multiple times.
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10-23-2013, 02:37 PM | #26 |
Zilvia Junkie
Join Date: Nov 2007
Location: Estonia
Age: 32
Posts: 450
Trader Rating: (2)
Feedback Score: 2 reviews
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I couldn't do it, it got stuck.
Does anyone here have experience with Z32 mafs and Nistune? I can't get it to work right. The maf works fine on a z32, but when i wired to my s13 it will not idle, but will rev |
10-23-2013, 07:31 PM | #27 |
Premium Member
Join Date: Jun 2003
Location: torrance, ca
Age: 39
Posts: 12,407
Trader Rating: (129)
Feedback Score: 129 reviews
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very interesting build. definitely took a large turn for the better.
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10-24-2013, 02:06 PM | #28 |
Zilvia Junkie
Join Date: Nov 2007
Location: Estonia
Age: 32
Posts: 450
Trader Rating: (2)
Feedback Score: 2 reviews
|
Are most of you referring to cut springs? It was an upgrade that cost nothing and slightly improved performance, the less threads the stiffer the spring.
Today I finally got the ecu and Z32 MAF to work together! Hooo! Video |
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