Mintbagel

So for starters I just finished swapping out the turbo manifold turbo elbow turbo coolant lines and installing a electronic boost controller

I had driven around on this new set up for about a week, and then I decided to dive into some of my starter wiring that had been f'd up ever since I was sideswiped last year, After trying to get some things to work I got angry and put everything back to the way it was (wire going from starter to switch to battery lol)

After I did that I started it right back up and ran fine for about 30 seconds and then started sputtering and rpms going up and down to about 1200 and down to about 900, also a slight bit of black smoke is coming out but not a lot, as well as an absolutely rancid smell coming from under the hood particularly from near the turbo, and the engine is shaking a lot as its sputtering.

I have looked at all vacuum lines, except there is a possibility there might be a leak on the line going to the boost controller, need to double verify that (at work can't check now) and I have checked everything I can think of, tomorrow i am also going to check my spark plug, and coil packs just to be safe

Finally my parts list just in case something here is relevant
S15 nonBB turbo
Greddy intake
Greddy FMIC
HKS SSBOV
Megan turbo manifold
Circuit sports turbo elbow
Circuit sports SS braided coolant lines
Greddy profec-b spec II boost controller
Mishimoto oem starter
Z32 fuel filter
NGK BKR7EIX plugs

Thank you in advance and I appreciate your time.

Mintbagel

Forgot to mention even if I attempt to rev it up it still sputters an has a very hard time revving so I havnt tried revving it past 2500.

Once again thank for you time

AutechKouki

This happened to me because I accidentally switched wires on MAF. And it ran insanely rich. I guarantee you crossed wires somewhere or improperly connected something and it's causing a short.

AutechKouki

Unplug the MAF and tell us what happens.

Mintbagel

Ok I will try that as well tomorrow and see what happens

Mintbagel

Ok no vacuum leak I can find still, all cylinders made it sound worse when I unplugged coilpacks, and when I unplugged maf it made it stop sputtering at idle and idle actually seemed perfectly normal but would try to die the second I gave it any gas.

And from more observation the smoke seems to be coming from behind the block because I can see it seeping out on both side

Mintbagel

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=3K-ap...ature=youtu.be

Here Is a link to me revving it in the cabin then engine bay and then unplugging the maf and revving it again and you can kind of here it choke out and not want to go above 2800 rpms

di-devol

There seems to be something up with your maf, ran good when you unplugged it.

Mintbagel

I'm going to try reading the wires put and get a new maf if need be

Mintbagel

Ok took a look at the maf it doesn't look dirty but I took a look at the connector and one of the contact looks like it isn't making contact so I tried splicing the wires straight in to see if it's just the connector, same exact problem, so going to call it a day and try and find a new maf

And here's a pic of the connector

OutlawLui

i had same problem, you should cut off and your maf plug, and make a ghetto maf plug like i did and see if it helps, my problems stopped wen i did this. give me a sec and ill post up a pic...





I used some speaker looking female connectors from autozone, except these are a smaller, hope it helps

*also take apart your maf and clean it with some maf cleaner to help things out, if this doesn't work, try checking the signal voltage on your TPS, and check grounds for continuity and power wires for voltage

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Mintbagel

I had just picked up connectors just like that and maf cleaner was planning on doing exactly that, so that's quite reassuring that that fixed it for you

AutechKouki

but if this happened after messing with your wiring I suggest you re-examine your attempted work, you might just fry another MAF.

Mintbagel

Yeah I did a real crappy quick splice so I'm going to try properly saudering in there on the old maf first, and then if that still fails, will fork out the money for a new maf

Mintbagel

Ok even with new homemade maf plug and freshly cleaned maf ran exact same, except it did fire up a lot easier and faster than usual, so I didn't hurt anything.

Now on that note does anyone where I can find the wiring for maf and tps, preferably in English aka not fsm, so that way I can put my multimeter skills to work

WindyCity

sounds like you need a NEW maf not a cleaned one ha.

Mintbagel

Yeah but I would rather spend 7 dollars an clean one over 100 dollars and get a new one

Mintbagel

So I traced it back to the supply voltage wire, it doesn't seem to be sending anything to the maf, so I'm going to just redo that wire and see how that worka

essthirteeeen42

Hope you fix it bro!

Matt191

did you ever get your car running?

Mintbagel

I'm in the navy and I just got some free time this weekend, so finally going to go tackle that wire, but I will let you know

Mintbagel

Ok read out ohms on the supply line, nothing, spliced in new wire and now I have ohms, now just to get a jump since she has been sitting so long... Wish me luck

lame_s13

Did you eveer find out if that was the issue? Im having a similar issue.

Mintbagel

Yeah it was the supply wire running from the ecu to the maf, there was a short, spliced it, now it runs like a champ, I would suggest getting out your multimeter