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Old 09-21-2008, 03:19 PM   #1
mmaxeyjr
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my ka24E problem *help?! (timing etc)

Edit New Problem Posted at Bottom of Page! Looking for some help. Thanks!

I know it's long but please read I need help! (this is my daily driver)

1990 240sx Ka24E


114k miles automatic...


New spark plugs, wires, distributor cap and rotor, z32 fuel filter, and new(er) iacv it's cleaned. Fresh oil and filter 500 miles ago. along with plugs, wires, and fuel filter.


It's been doing this for a while even before my oil change.


When I start up my car usually after it's been sitting for a few hours. It runs good, then soon after I believe it misfires, and it runs like this http://s128.photobucket.com/al...5.flv


Very shaky, terrible throttle response, exhaust putt putt's, smell of burnt oil, and gas?


When it's running like crap I pulled spark plugs 1 by 1 ONLY spark plug #1 doesn't make the engine bog down, but if I touch something and make it spark then put it back in it's place it runs good but soon after it runs like garbage again.


When it's running good I unplug spark plugs 1 by 1 and when the #1 spark plug is unplugged it boggs down like it should just like the rest.
I also noticed when I push down on injector clip #3 my engines idle drops. But when I do it to the others it does nothing.


I think my timing, distributor is off by 1 tooth (i'm not sure how to fix it) Also I noticed that it doesnt want to start sometimes, fuel pump, starter?
But lately it's been starting right up. I usually only get the starting problem when it's warmed up and I try to start it shortly after running it.


Also I'm thinking I need to replace fuel injector o-rings?
Any advice on what my problem might be? Also what should I get to fix my problem and have it running like a champ?


Thanks

Last edited by mmaxeyjr; 10-29-2008 at 11:19 AM..
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Old 09-22-2008, 10:41 AM   #2
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doesnt anyone have any input??
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Old 09-22-2008, 10:53 AM   #3
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okay, I just had some trouble with my ka24de, and it was timing. your problem with the starting cold be the wiring to the temp sensor, or the temp sensor itself. my brothers sr did the same thing, it would drive good when he cold started it, and than once he turned the car off ad tried to start it nothing, till it cooled down. that sound almost sounds like your oil pump is going out, but that just might be me. sounds kinda like its running dry.
good luck, if you find out anything let us know.
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Old 09-24-2008, 08:29 PM   #4
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if anyone can explain "how to" replace injector o-rings, and fix timing through oil pump and distributor...

let me know

thanks
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Old 09-30-2008, 10:42 AM   #5
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well, my injectors were leaky. So I bought replacement injectors and it ran much better. but it still isn't running 100% correct.

The timing is definately off by 1 tooth. Also I could probably use good grounding wires, and clean things out.

If anyone has any further advice let me know
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Old 09-30-2008, 06:00 PM   #6
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Hmm, very weird. These KA24E's are problematic engines. I had a major issue with mine and I was NEVER able to figure out the problem.

Did you check your ECU to see if it's throwing any codes?

Anyway, first thing I would do is change the coolant temp switch. It's an easy thing to do and it is always a good idea to replace it if it's old. I have heard of a lot of weird issues it can cause. If you need one, let me know. I have an almost brand new one that I installed to see if it would fix my problem. Didn't help my issue.

Next, I would make sure all of your ground connections are clean and secure. There's a ground connection on the distributor, too.

If neither of these resolve the issue, I would then think it's the distributor. I can't imagine the timing is off and the car wouldn't bog when you disconnect the #1 spark plug wire.

Next possible cause could be the ignition coil. I still have my KA24E ignition coil. If you want to try it, just pay for shipping.
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Old 09-30-2008, 06:09 PM   #7
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i'm thinking it could be your timing. Get that set first and see if it makes any difference.
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Old 09-30-2008, 08:13 PM   #8
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Well i replaced the injectors like I said, and it is running better.

I know the timing is off but that's through the oil pump shaft. It's off by 1 tooth I believe.

Right now the car is running better and not all shaky and messed up.

Also now I have a brake problem...

i drive my car for a little, then i smell something burning like rubber or brakes? and the right rear wheel is extremely hot. the others arent very hot at all.

theres no problem braking or anything, also it rolls fine in neutral and doesnt even seem like theres anything wrong...

edit: AFTER i noticed the brake / hot wheel problem i noticed my e-brake was really loose, so i tightened it up. this solved nothing, and the smell continued.

thanks
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Old 10-29-2008, 11:18 AM   #9
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Update (need help!):

Okay we replaced the fuel injectors, and it hasnt acted like the video shows in a long time. and all cylinders are firing so therefore no more misfire

It's been running okay, but often I get a hiccup when the car is just idling at like 5-700 the car shakes and the rpms drop very slightly then go back up.


When I rev up to 1500rpms the car is smooth, non shaky and it doesnt hiccup or anything.


Also when I go to give the car some gas to drive it hesitates before going then it finally goes.
What could this be?


We checked the timing and when the distributor is cranked to full advance it's off by 1 tooth. When its retarded slightly the timing is correct.


So it's now set to slightly retarded rather than advanced.

Should I just seafoam it and go from there?
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Old 10-29-2008, 11:42 AM   #10
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has this been resolved
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Old 10-29-2008, 02:10 PM   #11
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Yeah tech threads suck if there is no final answer as to what fixed it.


I still cant believe you asked how to replace the o-ring on the injector... lol, thats amature.
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Old 10-29-2008, 02:23 PM   #12
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might have a vacuum leak somewhere?
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Old 10-29-2008, 07:04 PM   #13
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ground connection on the dizzy? are you sure? ive never seen one, and my FSM states otherwise
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Old 10-29-2008, 07:16 PM   #14
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check ur timing...it looks like your running way to rich
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Old 10-29-2008, 08:19 PM   #15
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Ground connection would be an easy fix so i'm hoping it's that. But I do know for a fact that the timing is off 1 tooth from the oil pump shaft but only when the timing is advance.

Possibly vaccum leaks also...

Should I try seafoam? I'm approaching the due date for an oil change soon, possibly somethings clogged also?..

Best way to resolve all of this?

oh yeah I am amateur haha but once we took off the injectors it was a no brainer haha, i guess i just like to make sure before doing something..

thanks
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Old 10-30-2008, 05:38 PM   #16
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anyone???

thanks
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Old 10-30-2008, 06:14 PM   #17
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i had a very similar problem... it was the egr and a vac leak
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Old 11-04-2008, 04:31 PM   #18
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I had a simliar problem with my KA24de...It was the Injector O-Rings but since you mentioned you replaced your injectors and it stoped... then hmmm. Buddy of mine had a small crack on the Intake Manifold which also made it do this. I watched your Vid.. How to check for a vaccum leak, the best way is to get throttle body cleaner and start misting it around ur vaccum lines, The Throttle body and such, also your Intake. Also having a cracked Intake Manifold will do this.. Spray that cleaner around each intake and see if your engine Sputters up or down.. It will help you pin point the leak.

If your timming was off you the ECU should be throwing a code OBD1... So its hard to make a conclusion to your problem without a ECU code.... So my best guess is a small crack on your Intake manifold or vacuum leak somewhere. LMK if things get better with this opinion.

Also try getting some MAF Cleaner and clean out your MAF And try messing with the IACV (Idle Air Control Vavle) Thier should be a screw that you can turn to boost up and turn down your idle
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Old 11-04-2008, 05:53 PM   #19
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What if I run seafoam to see if theres any leaks, should it come out if there are vacuum leaks?

Also we replaced my exhaust from the header back and noticed that my o2 sensor was black when we took it out. I havn't replaced this yet, but it cleaned up and we put it back in and it seems to run the same.

I cleaned the IACV and the MAF was cleaned about 8,000 miles

I guess it may just need a good cleaning and adjustment? I'll try something when I have more time.
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