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Engine Tech Technical discussion related to all relevant engines such as KA, SR, RB, CA, 2JZ , L24/26/28, VG, VQ, and LSx series. |
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04-19-2011, 02:25 AM | #1 | |
It's Always Broken.
Join Date: Feb 2010
Location: Fresno, CA
Posts: 1,363
Trader Rating: (14)
Feedback Score: 14 reviews
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SR20DET gurus, need your help!
My friend recently purchased a car from here, which was a total rip off. It was just poorly put together, and had a bad tune (wont say who), and it blew the #2 piston, and what not.
Fast forward a month, and I built him a new motor and everything, we just got it in the car, started up, and it runs, but not perfectly. I'm not super familiar with SR's, as I come from KA's. Here are the issues: - Idle lopes up and down, but when car is first started, idle is solid. - Exhaust burns eyes (mega rich) ^ Pretty much it's running, but not well. I have already checked for boost leaks, only found a small one that I fixed. I also set the fuel pressure @ 40 PSI (I read around here it should be 36-43) Here are the specs of the motor if it helps... - S13 Blacktop SR20 - T28 (maybe off an S15? it's ball bearing) - Z32 MAF - 550CC Injectors - FMIC, etc - Nismo FPR - Stock Cams - Redline ECU Tune (he got it off here...I believe they are now called EFI Specialist) Could the Z32 MAF being wired wrong cause this? Should I raise, or lower fuel pressure? Also, possibly the tune could be bad? 02 Sensor? I wish he had a wideband...but unfortunately he doesn't. EDIT: Also, it has an AVC-R if that makes a difference.
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04-19-2011, 02:56 AM | #2 |
Post Whore!
Join Date: Sep 2004
Location: Simi Valley, CA
Age: 40
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sounds like it's his tune, most people who have those fancy ass ecu's that are normally "made for so and such setup" are not made for those motors. Silveman's s13 had a mines ecu or some shit supposedly for a similar setup you mention, his car made 128 hp on the dyno.
is the timing at 15 degree's, is the tps set properly around .45v?, what are the ohms from the two pin temp sensor on the water neck that tells the ecu how hot or cold the motor is. any codes on the ecu? Sounds like he needs to get a dyno tune as soon as possible.
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Wayne |
04-19-2011, 03:02 AM | #3 | |
It's Always Broken.
Join Date: Feb 2010
Location: Fresno, CA
Posts: 1,363
Trader Rating: (14)
Feedback Score: 14 reviews
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That's what I was thinking...
Timing is @ 15 degrees, yeah. I haven't checked the tps voltage yet, and I also haven't check the ohms of the CTS (if thats what you're talking about) because it's brand new.
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04-19-2011, 03:32 AM | #4 | |
It's Always Broken.
Join Date: Feb 2010
Location: Fresno, CA
Posts: 1,363
Trader Rating: (14)
Feedback Score: 14 reviews
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^ Checked tps. .45V closed throttle, 4.16 WOT
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04-19-2011, 11:57 AM | #5 | |
It's Always Broken.
Join Date: Feb 2010
Location: Fresno, CA
Posts: 1,363
Trader Rating: (14)
Feedback Score: 14 reviews
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Anyone else that can help?
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04-19-2011, 01:06 PM | #6 |
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make sure the MAFS is wired correctly, If you mix up the 12V and the signal is will run stupid Rich
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04-19-2011, 04:28 PM | #7 | |
It's Always Broken.
Join Date: Feb 2010
Location: Fresno, CA
Posts: 1,363
Trader Rating: (14)
Feedback Score: 14 reviews
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I honestly am not sure if it is wired correctly. Every single guide on the internet is different, and I don't know which one to follow.
It is wired like this(forgive me for not fixing the previous owners "crimping" skills): Looking at the plug from left to right: -White is first -Brown is second -Black is third -Black/White is fourth WHITE wire is crimped to WHITE wire BROWN wire is to GROUND BLACK wire is crimped to BLACK wire BLACK/WHITE is crimped to BLACK/WHITE wire PLEASEEE tell me that this is wired wrong. I hope it is. Pic of spark plugs... Also, I timed the motor like so:
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04-19-2011, 04:47 PM | #8 |
Leaky Injector
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I had the same problem a year ago, it was a leak before the o2 sensor ( manifold to turbo gasket) if exhaust gases are escaping before the o2 sensor can read them, it will behave like this. that or bad o2 maybe. good luck
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04-19-2011, 05:33 PM | #9 | |
It's Always Broken.
Join Date: Feb 2010
Location: Fresno, CA
Posts: 1,363
Trader Rating: (14)
Feedback Score: 14 reviews
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Checked for exhaust leaks as you said. Found none. However, the 02 was loose so I tightened that bitch down.
I also tightened all clamps, couplers, etc. Checked over everything twice, etc. Even started it without the AVC-R plugged in, and no luck. White smoke pours out of the exhaust when you rev it. Possible blown turbo, or head gasket? It has a cometic MLS headgasket, maybe it didn't seal.. EDIT: I failed to mention that we used all the intercooler piping,etc from the old motor. The old motor blew piston #2 and coated everything in oil, so the white smoke MIGHT be the oil getting burned through the piping. (i know oil smoke is usually blue, but just maybe)
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04-19-2011, 05:37 PM | #11 | |
It's Always Broken.
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Location: Fresno, CA
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I did. Maf seems to be wired correctly. B goes to white, C goes to chassis ground, D goes to harness ground, and E goes to black/white.
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04-19-2011, 05:41 PM | #12 | |
It's Always Broken.
Join Date: Feb 2010
Location: Fresno, CA
Posts: 1,363
Trader Rating: (14)
Feedback Score: 14 reviews
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04-19-2011, 09:45 PM | #14 | |
It's Always Broken.
Join Date: Feb 2010
Location: Fresno, CA
Posts: 1,363
Trader Rating: (14)
Feedback Score: 14 reviews
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I have solved the hesitation, and smoking issue.
When the previous motor blew up, it didnt only coat the intercooler piping in oil, but it FILLED the intercooler with about a quart of oil. This is what came out of the piping and intercooler.... Still has a rough idle, I'm thinking this may be because of a boost leak. I can't get the car to hold 20 PSI while boost leak testing. It only gets to about 10 PSI.
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04-19-2011, 10:44 PM | #15 |
Man w/ CTSV & a Car Seat
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CAS Timing is off...the line/divot is supposed to line up on the 2nd dot. Basically, when you inser it, its supposed to be lined up the way it is right now. When you put it it, the gear will spin to line up from the first to the second dot.
After you do that, double check the timing with a timing gun. On the crank pulley, timing should be on the 2nd dot from the left. http://www.frsport.com/How-To-Set-Cr...gine_t_25.html |
04-19-2011, 10:55 PM | #16 | ||
It's Always Broken.
Join Date: Feb 2010
Location: Fresno, CA
Posts: 1,363
Trader Rating: (14)
Feedback Score: 14 reviews
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^ FRSport says,
Quote:
And also the picture on FRsport is showing it lined up with the dot closest to the notch? Not the one that is next to it... Also, timing is stable at 15 BTDC, and can go like 20 degrees either way... would this be possible if I installed the CAS wrong? Nissan diagram: My notch: FRSport notch: Are you sure it's in wrong?
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04-20-2011, 09:45 PM | #18 | |
It's Always Broken.
Join Date: Feb 2010
Location: Fresno, CA
Posts: 1,363
Trader Rating: (14)
Feedback Score: 14 reviews
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Okay, so today I:
- Checked spark plugs - looked kinda lean - Checked gap - gapped down to .028 - Checked again for boost leaks - found a few - Figured out BOV leaks - Re-wired Z32 MAF with solder instead of stupid crimping - Found a BUNCH of oil inside of the lower intake manifold - Double and triple checked timing... The idle is still on and off. It idles right sometimes, and other times it hops up and down, and then gets steady again after a few minutes. Car doesn't smell as much, but still smokes a little white out the exhaust and exhaust manifold area when you rev it. Anyone have any ideas? We called Khiem @ EFISpecialist and he said the tune might be wrong, or something, which can cause it to run lean. And also that we should check/replace the 02 sensor.
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04-21-2011, 03:12 PM | #20 |
Post Whore!
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with all of that oil in the lower intake manifold I wouldn't be surprised if the IACV is fucking caked with oil, take it off and spray some electrical cleaner in there (from autozone, non flamable) and shoot that bitch till it is clean.
when finished let it dry, then spray some wd-40 up at the spring so it can re-lubricate. that electrical cleaner will eat all of the lube up in there and will cause it to stick. I'm sure you probably have oil caked up in a lot of the vacuum hoses as well, probably a good idea to replace what you can since it's cheap.
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Wayne |
04-21-2011, 05:48 PM | #21 | ||
It's Always Broken.
Join Date: Feb 2010
Location: Fresno, CA
Posts: 1,363
Trader Rating: (14)
Feedback Score: 14 reviews
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Quote:
Didn't check the vacuum hoses though, we'll check those out! In the mean time...the tune is currently being sent to EFI Specialist to be checked.
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04-21-2011, 07:14 PM | #22 |
Post Whore!
Join Date: Sep 2004
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word up, yeah I saw you took the lower intake mani off but you never know. some people get so excited with finding a small problem they slap everything back together and wonder whats wrong lol.
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Wayne |
05-05-2011, 12:47 AM | #23 | |
It's Always Broken.
Join Date: Feb 2010
Location: Fresno, CA
Posts: 1,363
Trader Rating: (14)
Feedback Score: 14 reviews
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Just wanna let you all know the car runs well and my friend finally got to drive it home from my garage.
Not gonna go into detail but there was a bunch of shit wrong with this car and we spent countless hours into fixing it and now it runs well. I will also say that my friend bought the car from "feems13" on here, he stated the SR20 had less than 50K miles. Well, the car lasted for less than 10 minutes on the grapevine before popping and cylinder 2 read ZERO PSI. After the sale was made, feems13 deleted all pictures on the for sale thread and etc. Big thumbs down for being so dishonest about the car!
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