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Engine Tech Technical discussion related to all relevant engines such as KA, SR, RB, CA, 2JZ , L24/26/28, VG, VQ, and LSx series. |
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04-07-2015, 01:24 PM | #1 |
Leaky Injector
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??Stock sr20det What do i get first??
Hi i have a blacktop s14 sr20det. I have greddy intake manifold and a greddy intercooler. Im wondering whats a good first upgrade to get on my engine it runs good and im looking to get some more hp. thanks i also have a greddy boost controller with apexi safc ii. need those horse power gains thanks
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04-07-2015, 02:50 PM | #2 |
Zilvia FREAK!
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Dyno time tuner and a Tuned ecu and maybe z32 maf with some injectors. Ditch the safc
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04-07-2015, 03:04 PM | #3 |
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Those are good things to add but i'd suggest rocker arm stoppers, an oil cooler and a larger capacity oil pan. Sr's love oil so keep it safe. Unprotected Sr could mean 0hp nawmean
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04-07-2015, 05:23 PM | #5 |
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Sorry ras aren't a proven "mod" and can cause more damage if they jam up. Do a dual guide mod if you're worried about that.
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04-07-2015, 06:53 PM | #6 |
Zilvia Addict
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I'd get a full 3" exhaust system, install the intercooler and turn up the boost to say 12lbs and gain tons of power.i wouldn't install the intake till you have a bigger turbo and keep the low end power of the factory manifold for now.
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04-07-2015, 11:05 PM | #7 |
Leaky Injector
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i have a 3 inch trust exhaust i also have a z32 maf walbro fuel pump
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04-08-2015, 12:01 AM | #9 | |
Leaky Injector
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Quote:
what kind of ecu do you sugest ecu as in tune right? and can i just go to a shop and do it? i think my friend has a laptop with the files can i just go to him and plug it in? where can i can get these files if he doesnt have them why ditch the manifold? Last edited by safari; 04-08-2015 at 12:41 AM.. |
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04-08-2015, 07:33 AM | #10 |
Zilvia Addict
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To me the intake manifold for a good majority of use is a waste of money and if any gains are showed is marginal. People probably do it for 4 reason. They want the look, Dont know any better. Cause everyone else does or cause its their car and they can do whatever the hell they want.
For ECU's If you can tune it yourself you should get what the tuner can tune. I've meet tuners the only recommend certain products and I met some that know budgets are different and offer a range of products. You can stick with a stock setup and have fun. If you want more then Im get the items that are the game changers.
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04-08-2015, 09:07 AM | #11 |
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The first 3 posts are troll posts. Pay them not attention.
Let me shed the knowledge 1. Z32 maf sensor is only required for turbochargers larger than stock 2. use 370cc injectors for 280rwhp, 550cc injectors for 350rwhp 3. never upgrade your stock computer unless you know how to tune the new one yourself. 4. never upgrade your stock computer if you still have the stock turbo 5. if you decide to upgrade your stock turbo to something larger, and must upgrade your ecu, learn to tune or bring the car to someone that owns a dynojet and also tunes the car there on the dyno for safe power if possible 5.5 camshaft upgrades are only useful on stock engines with turbo upgrades for breaking the 320rwhp barrier (and moving up to 350-370rwhp) 5.7 never try to make more than 350rwhp on a stock piston sr20det if you intent to daily driver the car for years 6. Always use the smallest injector, the smallest turbo, the smallest exhaust, the smallest intake possible for daily drivers. keep the OEM flywheel for best drivability. In other words, Nissans factory sr20det engine is already a pretty healthy back bone the way it comes, and unless you really know what you are doing with engines and have experience, your best bet is to leave it alone and enjoy it. Just change the oil. |
04-08-2015, 11:26 AM | #12 | |
Leaky Injector
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04-08-2015, 01:34 PM | #13 |
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How does adding more fuel per unit time help your engine if it already gets enough? Does your engine require more fuel for some reason? Where is the desire to upgrade injectors coming from? Fuel by itself does absolutely nothing unless you can combine it with the right amount of air.
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04-08-2015, 02:26 PM | #14 | |
Zilvia Addict
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#2 Id recommend against buying 550cc if you ungrade, 740cc Inj are a better choice. At least for Denso as the price difference is very close. Just my opinion. #4 If you can get a cheap ROM ECU it's not a bad idea, in the states its debatable unsure of RS-Enthalpy ECU prices. Depends on how much bang you get for your buck. I got a good deal on a Mine's ECU for me it removed my speed limiter and gave the car a bit more pep. If you're gonna pay over $200 its better to wait unless your happy. #5.7 Plenty of daily driven cars 350+ are running stock pistons in Japan, it can be done and last for years.
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04-08-2015, 03:10 PM | #15 | |
Leaky Injector
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no one asked my question i asked what should i upgrade first. |
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04-08-2015, 03:42 PM | #16 |
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I think you should look up the term horsepower and learn where it comes from. You will find there is no one right answer. Your sequence of upgrades depends on your abilities to understand engines and software. My first upgrade on a bone stock sr20det would be the turbocharger. Feel free to ask me why/how but know that my methods are unconventional, and based around being limited budget.
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04-08-2015, 03:51 PM | #17 | |
Leaky Injector
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04-08-2015, 03:55 PM | #18 |
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Airflow = horsepower. You want more power, you get a bigger turbo. you came here asking how to increase horsepower, Ill tell you how, you force more air into the engine is the best dollar/horsepower ratio, besides nitrous, I know of.
I already suggested you keep power below 350. The OEM turbo is capable of 240-280 on most engines, so naturally... time to research my friend |
04-08-2015, 04:17 PM | #19 | |
Leaky Injector
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04-08-2015, 04:21 PM | #20 |
Zilvia Addict
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Looong Looong Looong time ago I cam across this. I'm sure with YouTube you can do better.
http://www.hks-power.co.jp/en/basic_tuning/index.html Things that you can actually feel with your but dyno. Coilovers will make your car feel sporty. ECU tuning Turbine/boost pressure change. IMO everything else is more butthutt dyno ask your trying to justify the cost. Exhaust, Air cleaners, IM cams etc all to me aren't mods that are gonna be night and day. As suggested by kingtail you need to do some reading.
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04-08-2015, 04:44 PM | #21 |
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I never said that. I said the first thing I would do, would be the turbo... I never said it was ready to make more power or that it would "run fine". You can install a bottom mount internal gate turbo and disable the internal gate to keep it from building boost so it would be safe to drive while you move on to the next step.
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04-08-2015, 05:31 PM | #23 | |
Leaky Injector
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04-08-2015, 05:32 PM | #24 | |
Leaky Injector
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04-08-2015, 05:38 PM | #25 |
Zilvia Addict
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Nothing wrong with asking questions and most times you'd get little real results.
Someone can explain how to do something but reading something at least for me give me a base. No bull I started with that HKS site early 2000's and it helped me grasp the concept. Most people start out buying a lot of stuff they don't need and end up selling the car or a lot of money spend on mods to support a 400 HP engine while there still pushing stock power. Between the two contributors you on the right path. Add Exhaust and tune the boost up at notch after you know your engine is good.
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04-08-2015, 05:56 PM | #26 | |
Leaky Injector
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04-08-2015, 09:50 PM | #27 |
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Actually the oem exhaust system on our 240sx is identical the one found on the Nissan silvia that comes with the sr20det engine. You are fine leaving the all original exhaust system on your car (without a cat) until well into the 300 horsepower. I run an OEM exhaust with a cutout because sometimes it is fun to listen in, and it does help with spool and gives a slight performance boost. Its just not enough of a boost to justify the $200-$500 price tag of an aftermarket system until at least after the turbo/injectors/maf/ecu is in place, plus you cannot ever silence an aftermarket exhaust completely. The OEM system keeps the car whisper quiet, like stock, allowing you to hear any slight abnormal noise which I find highly desirable to assist diagnosis of problems.
If you can't afford to play with the motor, investing in lightweight high quality components is a favorable addition to any car. Lightweight forged wheels that weigh less than stock are an example. The lower the vehicle weight, the more each horsepower you make counts for something. Sometimes it is easier to remove 300~lbs than to add 10horsepower. |
04-08-2015, 10:25 PM | #28 |
Zilvia Addict
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A straight pipe is noticeable at certain RPM, no way I'd run a stock exhaust.
I want to hear my car, granted sound is relative. Removing stock exhaust has always been my first mod and you have to get it anyway. Unless you have a shitty exhaust it not gonna be unbearable. I live in Socal traveling between SD, OC and LA with an Apex N1 ever had a problem.
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04-08-2015, 10:43 PM | #29 |
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Just tune it on E85 fuel, with some 1,000cc injectors and you can have 350whp+ on daily driven with stock pistons, headgasket, head bolts!
Done, and done!! |
04-09-2015, 05:41 PM | #30 | |
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Quote:
It was only my major point that 1. if your budget is limited, you can save $$ literally hundreds of dollars by simply keeping the original exhaust system from our cars, for the original sr20det engine from Japan. It will support 300~rwhp without any problem. I get that you want to listen in, that is why I run a cut-out |
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