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S Chassis Technical discussion related to the S Chassis such as the S12, S13, S14, and S15. |
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03-07-2012, 04:09 PM | #1 |
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s13 overheats unless heater is on still has issues...
my s13 sr20det over heats but doesnt peg unless the heater is on. even when the heater is on the temp might climb a bit under load. (up hill)
koyo rad nflow flex-a-lite dual fans r210 no thermostat (im in hawaii so its not necessary, should actually keep car colder) samco bottom hose custom top hose hks rad cap s14 pump (waiting for a bnib s13 pump to arrive to try that) curious what the problem might be... tried bleeding system, flushing system, and even ran car with top rad hose off and the water pumps then stops, then pumps, then stops... its not constant. when the heater is off the car gets warm super fast and has a higher chance of having issues. just curious if anyone had a similiar problem... i was having electrical issues which was melting fuses but i think its fixed now that my fans are ran separate. 1 for a/c and 1 for thermostat control which both are wired with relays and independant grounds. thanks in advance. |
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03-08-2012, 11:06 AM | #2 |
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With all that I'd say it would need to be bled.
When you tried to bleed the system did you have the heater set to full heat? What are your fans controlled using?
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03-08-2012, 11:42 AM | #3 |
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I'm in Florida and I have a thermostat. You need a thermostat, so install one. Also sounds like your water pump isn't working, replace it. Get the S14 SR20DET water pump, it's a better flow design.
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03-08-2012, 11:44 AM | #4 |
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yeah gotta agree. replace the thermostat, have the cap tested, replace the water pump. with no thermostat in, there should have been a constant flow of fluid no matter what. also, do you have those fans wired to run constantly or are they on a relay?
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03-08-2012, 07:57 PM | #5 | |
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Quote:
1 fan is always on with a/c but obviously i havent been running a/c cause i have to have the heater open. both fans have 1 relay ea. s13 pump should almost be here and going try swap that with new coolant and bleed air but if that doesnt fix it then i can only assume the radiator?? |
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03-08-2012, 08:04 PM | #6 |
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A thermo. is needed, there is no restriction in the cooling system as well.
Are you using the bleeder bolt? And crank the heat all the way up when bleeding. Isn't there a difference in pumps or is that only in sr's something about the neck length. |
03-08-2012, 08:06 PM | #7 | |
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Quote:
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03-08-2012, 08:29 PM | #8 | |
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Quote:
2. jack car up, make shift bottle with tape wrapped to make good seal, then run the car with heater open and turned all the way up until bubbles stop right? 3. yes the s14 housing is different but they still say its an upgrade... makes no sense to me.. |
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03-08-2012, 08:31 PM | #9 | |
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Quote:
im going change my oil soon i guess to see but pretty sure theres no coolant in the oil pan. we flushed it and it seems to work but only underload the temp will act funny. im hoping its a timing issue... when we swap pumps and coolant il try double check the timing... |
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03-08-2012, 08:47 PM | #10 |
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since when does temp matter? i lived in az - had a thermostat. hawaii is NOT hotter than az. living now in ny - again, have a thermostat. hawaii is NOT colder than ny. your reasoning is unreasonable. your ecu partially relies on temp to do its job correctly.
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03-17-2012, 03:20 AM | #13 |
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il check that out but i had the radiator out and i had the hose in the top and pushed water thru it, then switched and repeated that... seemed to flow ok but every idea is worth a second look
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03-17-2012, 06:24 AM | #14 |
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Really? I lived in California and I had a thermostat, then lived in Chicago and still had a thermostat.
Just because the weather is sexy in Hawaii, doesn't mean it's sexy to run NO thermostat. OP, I'm sure you're not running an intercooler either? You know, cause Hawaii temps? Put a damn thermostat in there before you start warping the head and blow the headgasket, what's wrong with you? Seriously what are you goig to lose by installing one? $20? Just install it, because I'm sure that head is warping as it "warms at load" and your ass is going to be sitting there scratching you head and thinking of this thread where people are telling you to put one in. |
03-17-2012, 07:02 AM | #15 |
Man w/ CTSV & a Car Seat
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You need a thermo. You're not letting the coolant to sit in the radiator long enough to cool down. Also, slap the stock shroud and stock clutch fan, you'd be surprised how much cooler your car would run with it on. If you're adamant on not running a thermo, atleast slap a drilled out/modded stock thermo.
I've had this same exact issues in Okinawa with my S14. I was running a colder thermo with E-fans and my temp would creep up to 100 when I'm stuck in traffic. Slapped the stock cooling setup and it I never saw my temp go about 80 while just daily driving it with the AC on. |
03-17-2012, 12:29 PM | #16 |
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rinse the outter part of the radi too, i did that on mine rinsed out all the fins you be surpised how much dirt builds up in there and restricts simple air flow
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03-17-2012, 07:55 PM | #17 | |
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03-17-2012, 08:38 PM | #18 | |
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03-20-2012, 04:16 PM | #19 |
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i think the issue was because i had a custom mid mount + shroud that the radiator wasnt getting enough air and that was the reason the temp was going up and down under load...
ive only tested it a couple times but so far its great. i did get a ka temp sensor since im using a ka cluster on my sr and i hope it reads way less at running temp but going to swap it this weekend. |
03-20-2012, 07:47 PM | #21 | |
Man w/ CTSV & a Car Seat
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03-20-2012, 09:16 PM | #22 |
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I'm not worried about mine I run single cam and can get motors for 100-200 so no thermo is no biggie to me when i go turbo you can bet your ace I'm running one.
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03-22-2012, 05:20 AM | #24 |
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Thanks for mentioning the custom shroud in your original post. Because that surely wasn't an important detail.
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