Options13

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/sum-220985

would that be okay to use as the power steering line? or is it too thin. IF too thin what if you get a little bigger of a hose in the same stuff, will it work?

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Beejis60

The line should be fine but IDK about the teflon fittings under PS pressure. However, you ought to use PS hose with PS fittings (links respectively below as examples)

AN Power Steering Hose | ANplumbing.com
AN Power Steering Hose Ends | ANplumbing.com

Options13

my main dilema is trying to find a line that is either black or braided with steel. The blue line from earls won't match anything in my engine bay. lol

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Beejis60

A. There's more than just earls in that link provided. XRP makes black PS line, which is what I have.
or 2. buy foiled mylar sleeve for the hose to hide the "awful" blue color

and lastly, D. Who cares about color coordination?

BiG MiKE86

lOOk at this mans build thread before you ask silly questions..

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thefro526

I have black PS line with Earl's PS Fittings - I believe it's XRP since I bought it from anplumbing.com. Technically you're not supposed to run fittings with hose from a different manufacturer, but in the case of XRP and Earls, you can get away with it when using Pro-Lite and Power-steering hose (no idea about stainless braided.)

Color Coordination is everything.

Seriously though, I despise Red/Blue AN fittings with a passion, along with stainless braided hose. Adds a bunch of extra colors to the engine bay that don't really need to be there. Black Fittings and Hose (stainless fittings are cool too, when needed) are an awesome way to 'hide' all of the lines required to make stuff work.

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Beejis60

I've more important things to do. If he's doing a magazine build, then fine, I get it. Anything else, there really is no point unless you've got OCD to the max. No one will be looking under your hood or under your car that often.

Umm, are you saying here that you used Earls prolite hose for PS? I hope not the high pressure side as its max operation pressure is sub-500psi iirc and the PS fittings won't even fit due to the inner hose thickness.

You can run the appropriate fitting to the style of hose in some cases especially with the rubber-based hoses with their fitting equivalents, i.e. swivel seal fittings with XR31 hose or the ti-tech fittings with the prolite hose. I've mixed and matched those all before as they're essentially all the same, but the inner bores vary, with XRP claiming they have the biggest bore over any other AN fitting company which obvious leads to better flow.

Maybe if you're a girl or doing a mag build... I understand the appeal of having everything all in one color, but sometimes it's just not an option and you have to deal with that. With my fuel lines, some are 100% blue, most are 100% black. I couldn't get some unions in black and I absolutely had to go with the blue ones, but since they're under the car, I'm not fretting too much about it.

BiG MiKE86

[QUOTE=Beejis60;5417141]I've more important things to do. If he's doing a magazine build, then fine, I get it. Anything else, there really is no point unless you've got OCD to the max. No one will be looking under your hood or under your car that often./QUOTE]

If your driving a KA or some junk like that I'd understand... but im sure this hood will be popped more often than not

Here ya go

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Beejis60

With a log style turbo mani?
Anyway, I have a 500+ rwhp LS2 with plenty of goodies. I still don't care to 'show off' but his does look good and very clean.

thefro526

My bad, I should have made my previous post more clear.

In the case of Earls Power Steering ends, I've used both XRP and Earls hose and both worked fine, with the only difference being the color.

I've also done the same thing with XRP and Earls fittings on Earls prolite hose.

Also, the prolite hose is used only on the low pressure line, with the high pressure line being XRP Power Steering Hose. For anyone looking into doing a similar setup, the XRP hose and Prolite are different shades of black (if that makes any sense) and the weave density is noticeably different.

In my case, it's more of a 'do it right the first time' thing. It's not all that difficult to plumb everything using black fittings - as long as you're willing to look around for some of the weirder ones - although there are a handful of adapters and stuff that can't be found in black, but can be found in raw aluminum or clear anno. One of the neat side effects of doing a system in all black was that it sort of makes the lines 'disappear' in a black engine bay. Not that they're not clearly visible, more that they don't catch your eye.

For reference, the lines are obviously missing in this shot, but it should shed some light on what I'm talking about.

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Beejis60

I generally HATE black engine bays, but the matte looks really good here and mates well with the teal-like vc. I think the only thing that would work with that is anything but black as it's too glossy IMO; ya the red/blue are very popular and may look kinda clashy in your bay, but you could go with all stainless, nickel, or the ti-tech XRP fittings as they have a matte look to them. The PS fitting may look out of place if you had all ti-tech fittings but it seems the PS pump is kinda down and outta the way on that, is it not? I know nothing about those motors...

japslapsilvia

Its def. not a Magazine Build, i am just taking pride in what i do and don't want to make it look like a pile of pieced together shit , although as it currently sits is does look like a pile of shit LOL

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Beejis60

Ya, there's one thing between doing it right, ghetto rigging, and doing it clean.

5280VertDET

Hey guys,

Been studying this set up and other on other forums and have just ordered this set up. I was originally going to go with the Chase Bays kit, but it I had been waiting for it since August. Enjuku was nice and refunded me.

So I made my own. Here's the parts list and my "diagram": Total Cost from ANPlumbing.com - $142.00 Shipped



I just placed the order and have not install it yet, but I just wanted to say thanks to every one in this thread. One benefit to this system is no welding skills are required. I hope to post a install and long term update. Stay tuned!

PS: If anyone see's anything wrong that wouldn't allow this to work; please PM or comment.

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yetijeff

A lot of good info in this thread... One question tho would the sizes be the same on the ps pump fitting for a sohc ka pump?

NismoPlsr

The only potential problem I see with your setup is the rack fittings. You may get lucky and have the crush washers seal well enough so you don't have any leaks but the o-rings won't seal and that is the OEM design.

Try it out but you might have to ditch the washers on the rack and machine the fittings so you get the proper seal at the o-ring.

Good luck.

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5280VertDET

So, with out the washers the Orings WILL seal?

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yetijeff

From what I can tell from reading this whole thing, NO. U have to machine down the fitting because the hex head is too thick making the shank of the fitting to short and not allowing the oring to mate with the sealing surface of the rack

Beejis60

Ignore everything in this thread except for what I've posted...

and Yetijeff since he can read.

5280VertDET

Well, fuck. I read that but somehow thought that it was fittings from another supplier that had the issues and earls worked fine. Guess I'll find some to machine these down...

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ill.

I got sick of my rack adapters weeping P/S fluid, so used this as a quick fix on the dyno.



Rated to 2000psi (same as most P/S high pressure hose), haven't had any problems in the 2000km/1200miles I've driven since then.

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5280VertDET

They also make this:

Thread Sealants : Permatex®Pneumatic/Hydraulic Sealant

I wonder if it may work better, but I wonder if temperatures would affect it.

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Beejis60

This pneumatic stuff is what you want, however the price is borderline rape. The high temp stuff is a gamble and if you're a drifter going lock to lock a lot, I wouldn't gamble.

5280VertDET

Haha, Right!?!? Fuck man, its cheaper on Amazon but CHRIST!

AMAZON LINK $21

Also, the 54540 only works up to 300* F vesus the 59214 is 400*F; both rated at 10,000 PSI

Source:
59214 PDF Downloads

54540 PDF Downloads

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Beejis60

I honestly never looked at the MSDS/tech sheets of both but I knew the pneumatic shit was 10k... But even the high temp stuff has a higher breakaway torque. It seems to me that the high-temp stuff is in fact your best bet when in doubt. Thanks for the info; knowing is half the battle.

Busta

Solution we cooked up after running into the "threaded section too short" on the aluminum russell fittings we ordered was to re-use both oem fittings on the Factory hardlines. I kept both tube ends on the rack side, cut the tubes 1/16 longer than the fitting itself, got the tube ends out of the fitting and chamfered that end of the fitting. I then put the tubes back in their respective fittings and flared the tube into the fittting giving me something to work with now. I filled up that end of the fittings flat, chamfered both hex corners where they'd meet (for proper penetration) and tig welded me some steel an -6 fittings back to back with these ones. Total cost to me was 12$ for the two an fittings and time. I really wish I had some picture of what I did for details guys would have been simpler to explain. Running flawless for many years now

PeaceOnesxWai

Ill just add this for those who want to make a full AN power steering set up for half the price. You will need a know someone with a TIG welder, you may be able to get away with a MIG.


First off, take off your PS hardlines from the rack.



Next, take a cutting wheel or angle grinder and cut off the ends of the hardline like so. Make sure you have an inch or more at the end of the tube and nut.
Clean the shavings that would be in between the tube and outside with sand paper. You will have to clean the tube till its flat and raw material because its going to get welded later. I sanded till the tube easily fell out the nut.



Next purchase x2 "STEEL" AN-6 weld-on Bungs and take it to your welder. This can be done with a MIG welder as it is steel.
They should cost $2 each, which is a mere 5% of what you would pay for the 2 AN adapters which would probably leak on you.

Have your welder weld the bung to the tube from the outside. Make sure you take off the plastic o-rings on the nut before you weld them, they will melt on there.



Now you have a power steering rack AN adapter that is OEM reliable. This is 95% of why PS systems leak.. because the AN Adapter being to short inside the rack. I wish i had a pic to compare my OEM AN adapter vs a AN adapter but I can guarantee the AN is half as short.



After that you got the hard part done, you just need to get the high pressure line made, feed line, and reservoir.


For Pump feed adapter, you can :

1. Go with OP and purchase - Pump High Pressure 16x1.5 Crush Washer -6AN 9919DFJERL
or 2. purchase another Steel AN-6 Bung and have your welder weld on the high pressure feed side.


The Reservoir leaves you with 2 choices:

1. Purchase a new PS reservoir like I did. eBay $27


or 2. Purchase x2 AN-6 Aluminum weld-on bungs and x1 AN-10 Aluminum weld-on bungs and follow the method done by OP. This will require you to have someone with a TIG welder. This will leave you with just the AN-10 line to purchase.


The oil feed port :

1. If you have a TIG welder, follow OPs method.

2. If you do not have a TIG welder, purchase a AN-10 Female to Barb fitting for the aluminum reservoir above. Then just use the original rubber feed hose, its just a feed line so no need for it to be AN fitted.


Hoses :

For the High pressure hose, in most cities, there should be a hose shop around your neighborhood that makes these sort of line. In Socal, we have HoseMan all over. Just go in and have them make you a AN-6 to AN-6 High pressure line in steel braided material. This should cost around $40.

The return hose from rack to reservoir. Look online like forum and eBay, you just need about 2 feet long, its a -6AN to -6AN. Return hose does not need to be high pressure, regular kevlar braided is fine.

Oil feed line, its a AN10 to AN10, again look online. This one is super cheap because its a oil return line for turbos.


Hope this helps

Busta

Thanks man, pictures explain it all better. Only difference is the ones i've done have the tubes flared into a chamfer that's made into the fitting at the hex side to secure i to the fitting,then both ends are filled flat and welded toghether with two passes. And yes MIG works if done correctly. The ps resevoir on mine was relocated on a bracket by the radiator L/H side with fittings welded to it, gets it away from the exhaust manifolds and this all fixes the pump feed line leaking problems that these cars develop enventually with all new teflon braided ss hoses. Oh by the way I forgot to say that mine was also relocated to the a/c compressor area to give space for turbo piping "up there"

Beejis60

Have you operated on this rack yet? My friends on Nissan Road Racing say that the weld-on bungs do NOT work and will blow the rack for some odd reason. The only person I know on here that has done the weld on bungs, besides you of course, is Ninocrack and he has not run his car yet.

Busta

I've had absolutely no problems with the rack or anything else doing this on cars that get used and abused A LOT, working flawlessly. I cant see what it could change pressure wise. The guys to whom the racks have blown must not of been using the oem bolt on the ps pump banjo fitting, if I remember correctly it has built in regulator valve (special bolt)