Joobie610

Haha cheers mate! #90sforever

Car won't ever get tubs or tubed front. It's already defectable, I don't need to give the 5-0 another reason to defect me. Also means I'll always have weak front wheels

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Joobie610

So I got the car moved to my friends workshop - mad shoutout to Chazza - that's attached to Proximity. He had plenty of space, a hoist and let me come and go without bothering any of the Proximity employees during business hours.

I immediately started working on the oil cooling system. I've somehow managed to acquire 2 Trust/Greddy remote mount filter systems with the built in thermostat, so I'm using one of those with a Project Mu filter that Proximity had in stock.




As you can see, I made up a bracket out of some scrap ally plate that was laying around the shop, gave it a quick clean using some purple metal polish and attached it using some factory mounting holes in the chassis. I made it high enough so that I could fit 90degree fittings onto the bottom ports that run along the chassis rail, out to an oil cooler mounted between the intercooler and radiator. I will move this in future, as I want to refit my A/C at some point.

Here is a terrible photo of how I've mounted the oil cooler.



So, you can kind of see how I've got the cooler mounted. It's a bit of stainless pipe, where I've ground down some M6 nuts to make them cylindrical, pressed them into the pipe, tac welded them in and made a tab to fasten to the chassis. I've got the top mounted using the gold conical washer you can see in the rad support, the bottom is mounted the same way using another conical in the lower support.

I've used all black nylon braided line with polished fittings (so you can't scratch the colour off them) on this system.

I can't seem to find any photos of the finished product on the engine, but I've used a TAARKS (now EFI Performace) branded remote filter plate, which houses an oil temperature sensor. It's a bolt on, machine alloy plate, anodised black with polished fittings.

I also had Leon start to fab up my cooler piping. Because I love the Japanese style of building a car, I went for alloy pipes rather than stainless, donuts rather than lobster.







While he was completing that, I started working on the interior, and electronics. I haven't gotten around to fitting the ZD, and I probably won't because I think it's fake (even though I paid the Defi tax), but I'm running a Power FC D-Jetro that came with the car when I bought it (9ish years ago).



I've also relocated the fuse and relay boxes into the glovebox, but I'm not happy with how it's run, so I'll be making my own relay and fuse box setup in the future and mounting it in there properly. With the way I'm thinking of going, I won't be able to use the glovebox, but even my daily doesn't get driven very often with work being what it is.



Here you can see I've mounted a motorcycle battery in the boot, in a Moroso Sealed Battery Box. I've used 0 gauge B&S (dual shield) cable, sheathed in whatever crap conduit I could find. It currently runs under the car, along the chassis rail. It needs re-doing at some point too, but it works for now.



Not sure what I took this picture for, but everything is in dire need of a clean haha. For anyone curious, I'm using the drum handbrake out of my old R32, with Project Mu pads. After running this, and having driven other cars with Hydros, I'll never put anything else in a street car. Maybe a full comp car, but I still don't really see the point.



My wiper arms had been painted blue by a previous owner, it was pretty nasty. Ended up re-painting them gloss black. Came out pretty good. Much better than I expected.



Made up a fire extinguisher bracket out of some stainless strap. It picks up both seat mount bolts, and lets you bolt the extinguisher in place without the need to drill through the floor/carpet/mat. It's just eyeballed and bent in a vice then tig-weld together.

Photo post-wiring, pre-vacuum. I promise, I cleaned it



Not much left, then we're all caught up!

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Joobie610

You can see in the underglow pics, that I went overfenders on the rear. While the left side rear quarter was fine, the right side had been replaced at some point. Badly.

I noticed what I thought was a bit of rust coming through the silver paint, so I took a pad sander to that section and found some really impressive bog work over a black black quarter panel.





Everywhere I sand back was rusting under the original paint. Rather than cut off the entire rear section and find another, I figured I'd just go over-fenders and treat the rust at some point in future.

Looks horrible. Ended up welding and sealing the holes to make sure it's waterproof.



Overfenders are just the cheaper 30mm Origin junk. Used conical washers and nut-serts thinking it would be easier to remove and replace them in future. Hate the way it looks. Have some other fenders I'll be ordering soon to replace these.





First test-fit with it all on the ground.



Leon managed to finish up the intercooler piping, and between myself and a couple of friends we got the rest of the plumbing and wiring sorted in record time.



326 Power coilovers are the best. With the car sitting at its current height, there is still 30mm I can wind down the rear of the car before I start to impede on shock travel or spring preload.



After talking with the boys at Proximity, one of the biggest issues they see with low-mount SR's, is this top hose melting/splitting from heat damage. To make sure I don't suffer from it, I bought a sheet of heat shield and made this section, and another section for the wiring near the turbo. The difference it makes on a temp gun is phenomenal. Would recommend/10.





By now, the engine bay was pretty much finished.



Time to throw it on the dyno.



Hopefully I can find the Videos.

EDIT: I actually think the photo of how low the car sits was taken after it came off the dyno. I remember having to raise the car, as it would get stuck trying to drop between the rollers hahaha

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Joobie610

DYNO TIME!!!

I had the car tuned by a good friend of mine, Jono from JP Tuning. He did an awesome job, even though he hates me for it



















Final dyno graph. Just shy of 350hp, with over 600nm of torque. Car cooks fourth gear at QR. Would hit fifth if I wasn't such a wuss.

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