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Engine Tech Technical discussion related to all relevant engines such as KA, SR, RB, CA, 2JZ , L24/26/28, VG, VQ, and LSx series. |
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12-21-2011, 10:05 PM | #1 |
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Sr20det Oil Catch Can Location
Ive been searching this and know it has been cover a 1000 times, but I cant seem to get the answer that I need. I found a picture of an sr20det with the catch can on the right of the car. I want to do the same with my car. You can clearly tell where one of the blue breather line goes and tee's into the PCV and then into the can, but where does the other blue line go too, maybe intake?? Since the PCV is tee'd into the other line and no longer into the intake is the red line just ran between the 2 intake ports? Any help would be awesome!
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12-22-2011, 04:30 PM | #3 |
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ok great thanks! So I need to connect the line before the turbo and after the MAF right? I have the stock black seperater on right know and believe it has a line going to the crank, what would I connect the crank breather line to? Thank you
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12-25-2011, 07:21 PM | #5 |
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Rear Block to OEM air seperator, to valve cover T from Valve cover t to catch can, from catch can to intake. OEM PCV setup on passenger side
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12-25-2011, 08:25 PM | #7 |
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The stock Oil Air Sperator (that bolts to the back of the head, driver side) yes. Also using a Greddy (any brand will work here obviously) on the front of the T.
That rear seperator is worth it's weight. It is common on FWD swapped stuff,but for some reason the 240 swap guys toss them...it's a nice add on as it allows the vapor/air to come up and through, and for the oil to remain in the crank case.
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12-26-2011, 10:52 AM | #9 |
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On the S13s guys ditch them. I had an S14 motorset and they never came with an oil/air separator. However, I believe that's due to the better designed valve cover. Even so I plan on running my catch can setup on my VVL valve cover too, which also has better baffling in the VC than the S13s did.
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12-26-2011, 01:05 PM | #10 | |
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Quote:
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12-27-2011, 05:50 PM | #11 |
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You want PCV under boost./?/!
! <---- Tie the valvecover to the turbocharger inlet, that is, before the turbo. And, be aware there is a one-way check valve for the intake manfold->valvecover port. |
12-27-2011, 06:32 PM | #12 |
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Codyace have you ever oopend the GReddy catch can? I wanna know the design inside. Whether it's hollow, split, baffled, etc.
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12-27-2011, 06:35 PM | #13 |
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I think almost all of them are just hollow. I had a Greddy one, didnt seem like there was anything in it. You're better off making your own and stuff it with steel wool.
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12-27-2011, 06:46 PM | #14 |
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Thats what I did practically. Just bought a cheap can and stuffed steel wool in it.
I used 00 I think. Maybe finer. Hope its good haha
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12-27-2011, 09:08 PM | #15 |
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It's a big open can. 4 bolts on top, and 4 on bottom (allen heads) and just the visible 'catch' tube. I had considered putting some of the steel wool that many suggest, but I don't have any major/any oil film on the turbo inlet or outlet pipes so I can only assume that there isn't much from the get go.
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12-27-2011, 09:13 PM | #16 |
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I thought so.
I never have any residue in mine either, I just like to be on the safe side with things haha. Healthy engines ftw
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12-28-2011, 02:04 AM | #17 |
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A good catch can setup should have sludge in it, Not water, oil or gas. There's is something wrong if you can pour out your catch can. The greddy site tube and the inlet hose becomes an eye sore pretty quick with a properly working system. I have been contemplating switch hoses or sleeving for quite some time. Wait...maybe my shit's f'd up!
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09-23-2013, 01:14 PM | #20 |
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mouth to mouth resuscitation
back from the dead?
Just trying to follow the good advice posted here. My top mount turbo kit needs the space occupied by the stock can at the rear corner of the engine. Any one successfully relocate this elsewhere....or do I just ditch? If I ditch....so I just run a line from the block up to the T on the valve cover....or do I route it to the Greddy catch can first? |
09-23-2013, 03:33 PM | #21 |
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Ditch it. Tap a -10 fitting in the back of the valve cover and route a drain tube straight to the port in the block. Then get rid of the T. Cuz you will only be needing 1 line from there.
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09-24-2013, 10:59 AM | #24 |
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Hey Mikester...I read that thread thoroughly yday.
Good stuff....but in the end I came away with the need for a S13.4 valvecover. Nissan messed up on the s13 valve cover and corrected it with the s14....an oem solution in my eyes is best.Thanks for your help guys. |
09-24-2013, 02:18 PM | #25 |
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^^You're welcome... I'm personally going for the drill & tig the fitting in the top rear... Cheaper, plus I don't have to get rid of my CF coilpack cover
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09-25-2013, 08:17 PM | #26 |
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The easy way to avoid the S13.4 valve cover is to turn the external (gasp, OEM) oil/air seperator. Easier, cheaper, done.
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Want Air Conditioning in your SR20 Swapped car? Check out www.sr20acbrackets.com for more information! Quest Alternator Conversions for SR20! Check my Group Buy! Tired of lousy internal gates? Go external wastegate with one of my manifolds, Check out my group buy |
09-26-2013, 01:39 AM | #29 |
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i understand many different designs of the catch can setup for s13 SR's but what about 1 with a vvl head? does the baffleing change how you would want to run the lines from the head?
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09-26-2013, 05:14 AM | #30 |
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The concept remains the same, plumbing is slightly different. I added or should I say Mazworx added an extra port on my VVL VC for additional venting. Do a quick search for my build thread and you can see what was done with mine. The port on the backside of the VC(facing bulkhead) was welded shut.
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