sepulchral

I've checked wiring, replaced the H/l assembly timer thingy, im pretty sure the stalk is ok. There is no reason why both motors would go bad... its got to be something.... ANY ideas out there?

marios13

did u check ur fuse box in the engine bay
???

marios13

there is also a box thats inside the kick panel i'll take a picture that can also be busted

wutangben

there is no answer to this problem, so stop making threads about it!

vinhisbored

I think it's the motors.. maybe they're just worn, and died out. If they weren't, you'd probably hear them trying to go up or down.

wutangben

vinhisbored: you don't know what you're talking about. it isn't the motors. i have the same problem. mine used to go up and down just fine, then out of nowhere both of them stopped going down. the headlights still flip up when you turn them on, the motors are fine. something electric-related is wrong. lots of people have this problem, no one has figured it out yet.

sepulchral

sometimes i cry and ask god "why does this have to happen to me?"

marios13

i foundz it!! the solution to everyones problem, haha not really about going up or down i say get east bear headlights dont have to worry about the pop ups anymore im going for that conversion soon enough.

sepulchral go for these son these are hot!!!
anyone else interested in these maybe we can do a buy in on these.
these are not gtp ones

sepulchral also llike everything in our car thats electrical use a light tester to see if your getting power to the motor find the motor splice it open and see if you have power if not then there is ur answer...if you still cant figure it out then do the conversion to east bear or s13 either way its hot

BigVinnie

Your problem lie's in the speedometer assembly or the high and low beam switch arm, I know this as fact.
In repairing my digital speedo assembly I removed it from the dash, when I did this I drove around for a week with out it. When I turned on the lights they went up, but wouldn't go down, my reverse back up lights wouldn't go on either. When I reinstalled my digital speedometer front lights went back down.
The 240sx speedometer assembly weither it be digital or not has problems with the flat electrical mapped strip and the capacitors that are found behind the speedometer gauges, "usually due to age on both models, and the fact that the production of the capacitors are cheap as hell", this will prevent some supplied "6volt and 12volt" electrical currents to run to the relays and fuses of the pop up light assembly.
I also know this in checking all relays, and fuses by using a device called a continuity tester you can buy one at any electrical store for under $20.
But then again I didn't tell you this, Nissan loses money for relaying this kind of information, my boy "Monk" works at the Antioch Nissan dealer ship as a sales rep, I spoke with a technician who is his friend also. I was told not to give out this info.

driftstar

uh maybe its because you made your car RHD instead of buying one factory RHD???

sepulchral

BigVinnie

so if i swap my gauge cluster would it fix it?

my speed sensor is broken and hasn't worked would that cause it?

or did i read your post all wrong?

Project240

I sorta have the same prob. when i bought the car they would go up/down but with a weird drag noise,now 1 is stuck up and the other down. now i really need 2 get it fixed so i can get my plates. thoughts?

oh should the light still come on the 1 thats down??

BigVinnie

I don't want to jump and assume. Check the motors first. Then check all relays and fuses. If that isnt the problem then pull out your cluster look for the indicated "color" wires that run to the relays from the speedometer they will be back there. Look for there connection on the circuit board strip "where it plugs in. What you want to do is trace the hot lead. so look for the ground indicated wire " ground is usually the Black indicated wire, or blackstrip with white". Disconnect the ground from the circuit board.
Take a continuity tester, plug it into your hot, and the black wire of the tester to the ground of the plug in. If the indicator light to the continuity tester doesnt work your problem is in the circuit board.
If you don't want to waste your time testing, nissan sells the circuit board strips for $53.00. It can also be the connection to the wire harness plugs check them also.
If you have a digital speedo it can be a capacitor behind the digital display.

sepulchral

wow.. hope this works

sepulchral

ok i replaced my guage cluster entirely however nothing happeneed, good news was my speedo works now! (cuz it wasnt plugge din lol)

any other ideas

sepulchral

ok i replaced my guage cluster entirely however nothing happeneed, good news was my speedo works now! (cuz it wasnt plugge din lol)

any other ideas

sepulchral

this is really pissing me off.... i don tthink its the stalk, the assemblys, i havent replaced the motors but thats pretty drastic but i think i might..

kandyflip445

Make sure the arm length and the stopper are adjusted right. If they aren't they won't go down and sometimes it will be where the lights will pop up and won't come on. Why would changing the cluster mess with the lights. They aren't even in the same circuit. Also the "continuity tester" is usually known as a "test light".

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derux

there is a switch in the headlight switch arm that tells the light s to go up and down. I can go bad and i have had it happen. Try a new switch.

BigVinnie

Actually the Front light switch arm and cluster are all in the same circuit........

kandyflip445

If you're talking about the guage cluster they aren't. I just looked at the circuit diagram and they don't even tie into each other. They both come off of "battery 1" but aren't wired in series so it wouldn't effect the other circuit. The only thing close to what you're saying is the high beams.

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My 240 vBgarage

sepulchral

this is the stupidist most difficult problem to troubleshoot.

BigVinnie

Alright I found the problem and called nissan to confirm. I misconstrued the info on the gauge cluster. Although the low and high beams are infact spliced into the gauge cluster.
Before the cluster the splice comes from the switch arm for low and high beam.
To the left of the steering column you will see a button, on the button it looks like a light with arrows going up and down on it. Nissan calls this button the manual override button. "Kinda works like a relay".
The other low beam splice is connected to this override along with the 2 sets of wires for each relay running to each motor.
So the 2 things you need to check.
If your low and high beams work with the switch arm that isn't your problem.
If the relays/fuses and motors aren't blown that isn't your problem either.
Then the problem can only be in the manual override button found on the left of the steering column. Sorry for the confusion earlier.

sepulchral

i found my problem, if u look in techtalk u can find the other post i made

BaliLover

Mine had this problem, they'd go up, but wouldn't come down. IT was simple, replace the headlight switch/shaft coming off the steering column. I got the part at Autozone, and it was EXACTLY like factory, even the numbers and manufacturer. Swapped it out, problem cured.

There are little spring loaded brass contacts inside of it, and they eventually wear out. I tried to repair mine but it didn't work. Thats when I went with a new switch. I think it was pretty cheap too, under $50.

240trainee

His problem is he used a Silvia's dash harness in his RHD conversion, and the Silvia harness does not accommodate the headlight controler box. we unplugged that little brown plug from my steering column, and mine does the same thing.

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