kawitwofiddy

Whats up dudes...
Saddle up for a long read......

so I recently slapped a turbo on my ka and am at a loss of ideas along with the people that work at the shop I intern at. SOOOO initially, I had a flashed ecu from nismotroinics just to get going on the road until I could go standalone/map/realtime. I had a z32 maf setup drawthrough with sr 370's on a .60 A/R t3 turbo, and open downpipe for now. Start it up, my afr's are in the 10.0-11.5:1 range, had a few things to work out, etc. I decide to try and let it see boost, and it cuts and sputters and overall just runs like shit. It's also idling like shit. Sounding cammed as fuck. I go over timing, and verify everything, reset distributor timing, and at this point I know its all dead on. I started it after playing with stuff and no good idle nothing. I' soldered the z32 maf wires, just every little thing I can think of. I decide to go back to 270's, s13 maf (havet soldered yet) and a buddies stock s13 ecu and see if my idle clears up and leans out closer to stoich. All put back to stock, I start it, and nothings changed. I put the maf directly on my intake, and noticed a loose coupler exiting my turbo. Pull it all off, maf on the intake I start it and it idles the best it has, and runs perfectly stoich. I go and tell the guy I work for and say it is cleaner now, by the time I come back its worked its way back down to the 10.0-11 range again but idles decent. Thinking weve made progress I slap my intercoolr setup back on and start it. 14.7 for about 10-15 seconds then right back down. it likes to sit right on 10.0 or 10.9. Its weird as hell. At the time it was maf straight to inlet with a coupler between, and no air filter. I put an air filter on and gave it some distance since then, with no change. My idle also has become shitty again, and actually clears up when unplugged along with TPS but stays rich. I also dont believe the maf is bad, because I purchased it(used still) shortly before going turbo and it fixed that problem. The other day I bypassed my turbo set up again, set up my maf directly to my intake, and it idled 1000x better, and I was finally able to truly time my dizzy. TPS disconnected, sat from 13-16, TPS connected, it was running 12<. Progress ithought... Nope. I reconnect my I/c setup and it initially runs and idles good, and slowly but surely becomes the wanna be cammed monster.

Things I've done since:

-swapped fuel rail because I was on 3 cylinders from leaky injector so that has been solved(I know I didn't mention above but still runs shitty.)
-I have strong spark on all cylinders. newer dizzy cap and rotor
-new o2 sensor
-tried to wire in my IAT sensor (HOW CRUCIAL IS THIS SENSOR?) its not wired in atm
-CTS sensor is relatively new- ~6 months old <5,000 miles
- It still usually sits at 14.6-9 upon COLD start up then creeps down by tenths of each number down to 10's.


MY next moves as of now are: (this is where your input is wanted)

-solder maf wires tomorrow
- maybe try other set up again
-find some scrap I/c piping to try a blow through maf setup (eliminate maf turbulence from the equation)
-test sensors
-I am working on getting a ms3x standalone with the DIY harness to eliminate any potential wiring problems if its not solved by then.
-I lost my job today so im pretty much survival mode until I get more income. So I will do as much as I can and spend as little money as possible for now.
-put maf back on intake and see what happens

My motor was put out of service for a timing chain replacement, along with mls hg and arp studs to prep for boost, and ended up going turbo at the same time. I removed all the emissions, removed tb coolant along almost all vacuum lines, cleaned all valves on manifold along with caked oil inside manifold from pcv, just a small rebuild.

Tried to be as descriptive as possible, but sure I missed something. Ill tryto get a video up some how for you all to see it. Thanks in advance fo any input.

Update! Video-4/7 just changed cts sensor and added legit turbo inlet...
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=RAXiJRKj2q4

mad-ass

sputtering on boost? not enough spark. switch to copper NGK's.
IAT is very important.

I suggest you go with AEM as soon as possible and tune before you blow things up instead of trying to chase something you can't figure out.

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anti tyler

You really recommend copper plugs in a turbo motor? I'd step the plugs down but not all the way back to copper.

Last week I got gas threw in a lucas cleaner and 10 minutes later my A/F ratio dived down to 9's at WOT. Still not sure why that would change but you should look along the line of the fuel system. Is your regulator working properly. Check for collapsed vaccum lines and such.

Stupid question but is your MAF on backwards? You should get an SAFC or borrow a friends and try using that. If you cannot get the A/F's to change then you have a sensor issue.

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KA-T for life!
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mad-ass

Yes, Copper plugs are awesome with turbo setup. Yes they don't last as long as the platinum/iridium plugs, but they are also only $2 a plug(changing them every 5000 miles or so, you'd be spending just as much money on iridium's with 4 changes).

and change fuel filter while you are at it with the Z32 TT filter(Wix or K&N brand) just because.

edit: the reasons behind sputtering under boost are Maf, spark plugs, bad gas, boost leak. It's usually the maf or boost leak, but I have a hunch that your problem is the plugs.

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anti tyler

If his A/F's are down in the 10's going to a copper plug and running premium gas isn't going to help.

There's only 10 parts of air to his 1 part of fuel. somethings leaking.

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KA-T for life!
Current for sale advertisement

mad-ass

I realize the A/F-R reading he is getting, but sputtering under boost is fairly common and boost leak check and plugs are usually the first to do on the list.

anyhow, i forgot to ask, how far is the maf from the turbo inlet? you should try to aim for at least 10 inches away from the inlet.(this is for the AFR readings)

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kawitwofiddy

Since I've switched to my stock set up and don't boost it. In fact I haven't even driven it really since. I tried to drive on the stock set up once, and it was horrible but found a lot of things contributing to then. Leaky injector, which I swapped another rail in and tested it out of the IM an all was good. I'm running bkr7e's (copper) currently gapped at .035 but I've tried anywhere from that down to .028 with no difference since I'm not trying to run boosted on stock shit. At this point a standalone(I'm going megasquirt btw but don't have a job ATM now) but my car should act 100% stock at idle and light throttle. My z32 maf actually wa wired incorrectly but I've since gone back to stock maf (match colors obviously since i cut it off) they just are not soldered. My mafs really close to the inlet at the moment but I've also tried putting it farther away with little to no change. I'm gonna check maf voltage and fuck around a little more... Could no thermostat fuck with my CTS sensor? I also think I should recallibrate my TPS.

Oh and I don't really have room for 10 inches in my engine bay. I kinda wanna try blow through tho

kawitwofiddy

No boost leaks.... I took my sweet ass time putting my I/c piping on because it's a tight fit. Testing never hurts tho if it comes to it. My vacuum chills at 17-18 with piping and around 20 with it bypassed.

kawitwofiddy

Anyone have any ideas?

0m3r

I have been going through a similar thing, my afrs are pegged at 10 at idle. I have also checked every sensor and the timing 10 times. I just bought a stock ecu and stock injectors to see if anything changes. I also dont have any fuel leaks or vacuum leaks. Maybe something wrong with your tune, also check the fuel pressure regulator.

mad-ass

Ever get this fixed?

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Driftwire

How is your maf wired. 1 of the black wires should be grounded to the motor while the other is grounded to the harness. I have a KA-T setup on 10psi running a Nismotronic tune and my car runs amazing. Biggest problems were injector o rings popping and leaking horribly. Also had to adjust dizzy timing slightly even with the tune. only run 93 octane

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kruked

If I'm not mistaken, NA & TT z32's, the fuel filter share the same part number. Meaning there is not a difference.


Ideally, the MAFS needs to be 18" from the turbo inlet. That's per Martin from Enthalpy.
A friend of mine was having problems w/ his car, I told him to move the MAFS further from the turbo, (draw through setup). He didn't want to believe me so he wound up taking the car to Z-Fever where Martin works. The shop owner Doug, (complete douche bag) wound up charging my friend several hundred bucks for moving the MAFS further from the turbo and the problem was solved.

Try moving the MAFS minimum 15" from the inlet.
DOHC s13's did not come w/ the AIT sensor so it is not dire for it.
Not running a thermostat will maker the car run cooler, obviously. It's not ideal though because the car needs to see normal operating temps to fully function properly.
Several years back, my car ran like complete shit because I was running too cool. I put the thermostat back in and my car no longer broke up in boost and no longer had horrible AFR. I spent months trying to figure the problem out, made several threads on several forums. People and I could never figure it out. I found the problem by fluke one day when the weather was warm one day during winter time.
How does your car run on a complete stock setup?

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2014 Triumph Street Triple

bmaddock

Bump! Any progress?

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240tuned91

jim wold technologies does the best flash programs imo. kA's can be very realible set up correctly. did u ever make your own boost leak detector if not make one that will help you a lot.

kawitwofiddy

SORRY GUYS!!!! I honestly forgot I made this thread but glad I came back across it because alots happened since where I last posted. My progress is reallyslow because my income is low(summatime in a sports restaurant).

now to catch you guys up to date.

ive since, ACTUALLY boost leaked my car and Its pretty sure that was the boost cut problem. I went back to the way my car was setup before I rebuilt it, and she pulled nice and strong. just like I remembered, but it still runs rich at idle atleast, but I recently rewired my whole car, ran into the current problem im facing(in another thread I made) but that problem should be solved when I get to work on my car. Im getting an o2 bung put in my stock downpipe to see what shes running. cuz It sure is stinky!! lol